Complete T5 swap thread - one way to skin the cat

[Frijolito1988]

Guys i see a 86 S10 with a 4 Cylinder and T5, Is that the same T5 we can use ? They used the same T5 on the 4 and 6 cylinder ?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by porter90

man I wish I could find an s-10 t5..i have to cut another hole another 3inches back for the shifter! womp womp woommmp

Persistence my friend. The S10 T5 (or one from a GMC S15) can be found, but it's just getting harder these days. I just bought a 1993 World Class T5 with 90K miles on it. I pulled it from an S10 with a V6 at a salvage yard and it has the 0.72 OD gear too. It took over 5 months of waiting, but I found one.

I think you'll find one if you persist.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Frijolito1988

Guys i see a 86 S10 with a 4 Cylinder and T5, Is that the same T5 we can use ? They used the same T5 on the 4 and 6 cylinder ?

An 86 S10 with a 4 cylinder might have a 0.86 OD gear, but if you aren't gonna do a lot of highway driving, that would be OK. This chart suggests that TAG 1352-102 is a Non-World Class with a 0.72 OD gear. See if you can read the tag.

MOST importantly, does it have an electric speedometer drive or the elusive mechanical (cable) drive?

[allens4876]

Found a 85 s10 with everything still intact at a local scrap yard! i will be doing this swap soon in my 67 c10. one question i do have is how necessary is the round piece made at the machine shop? i found a spacer thats premade.

http://hamiltonintakes.com/products/...5-swap-adapter

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by allens4876

Found a 85 s10 with everything still intact at a local scrap yard! i will be doing this swap soon in my 67 c10. one question i do have is how necessary is the round piece made at the machine shop? i found a spacer thats premade.

http://hamiltonintakes.com/products/...5-swap-adapter

The adapter plates made by the vendors listed below are ready to bolt into place.

Vintage Metalworks Adapter Plate - Click Here

HotRodworks Adapter Plate - Click Here

[Sharps40]

PM Old Bleu, he just used the Vintage Metalworks Adapter on his T5 install.

[Old Bleu]

Allens4876, I first tried to contact Hamilton Intakes about their adapter, and never got any response. I've read here that others had the same experience. Lugnutz put me on to Vintage Metalworks, and I ordered his spacer plate. It fit perfectly and looked to be be very well made. The only modifications that I had to make were shortening the driveshaft, slightly shortening the bearing retainer and slightly lowering the crossmember that holds the e-brake levers on my '64. I still need to get a new speedo gear in my T5 since my speedometer is 15% or so fast with my 3.73 gears. I've also discovered that my T5 is leaking ATF at the speedometer connection, but I'll install a new "bullet" with seal and o-ring when the speedo gear is replaced.

I don't have a lot of miles on mine since the swap, but it definitely makes driving the truck a much more enjoyable experience!

[Sharps40]

Actual speed/indicated speed -1 = X

X times 100 = percent high.

With your/my rear gearing (3.73 in the diff), each added speedo driven gear tooth should be about 5% reduction in speedometer read out...so....

Percent High/5 = Number of additional teeth needed on the driven gear to correct your speedo.

For example, this morning my speedo indicated 70 mph, Garman says actual is 55 Mph.

55/70 = .7857

.7857 - 1 = -.2142

.2142 X 100 = 21.42% error

21.42/5 = Need to install a speedo driven gear with 4.28 additional teeth to slow the reading down to correct speed.

At least, thats the theory. I'm gonna count teeth on my existing driven gear, measure the length and gear diameter and purchase either a T5/T10 driven gear or TH350 driven gear and driven gear houseing with 4 additional teeth on it.


Or ya can divide difference by actual and get a different figure with less math....in this case..

15/55 = 27.2% error....so given the internet myths and the possibilty the the common 26.7% ratio reducer is for sale, which do ya think is right? We'll see.....

[allens4876]

cool deal, thanks for the links lugnutz! ill definitely look into buying that one. I just wish the economy wouldnt have went to crap or i could have made my own at the shop!

[jocko]

Originally Posted by allens4876

Found a 85 s10 with everything still intact at a local scrap yard! i will be doing this swap soon in my 67 c10. one question i do have is how necessary is the round piece made at the machine shop? i found a spacer thats premade.

http://hamiltonintakes.com/products/...5-swap-adapter

Congrats, hope your install goes well and that this thread can be of some help. Don't bother with Hamilton Intakes, they blew me off for months and set my project behind for a long time. Flakey bunch. The only reason I made the ring was because it was a homemade machining deal, ensured I could have the parts made inexpensively out of 2 pieces that I could finish fit at home (ie the spray-paint hole location technique) vice starting with 1 large aluminum billet chunk that had to have the mounting holes dead on from the git go). Skip that approach and use the Vintage Metalworks adapter listed above, it's the way to go now - just wasn't available (or I couldn't find it anyway) when I was doing my build.

[BAT]

If you need just the spacer ring I have one you can have for $20.

[SIXT8LOU]

Originally Posted by jocko

If you retain the stock bellhousing (and it's associated dog-ear bell housing mounts), then you should not use a trans tail-housing crossmember. Only 2 mount locations should be used along the engine/trans driveline combo - not 3. (I'm counting both bell mounts as "1" and the engine mounts as "1").

This question comes up every once in a while and it's a good question - but if you note that newer vehicles that have rear trans crossmembers don't have bell housing mounts, it starts to make sense. Overall reason has to do with potential flexing, or resisting of flexing as a unit, etc of the engine/trans combo - so only 2 mount locations needed or deisred. Either Engine+bell, or Engine+trans rear crossmember.

thanks for info.. i recently read a mag article which says go with 3 mounts (as you described), he installed a newer 350 turbo mount at the back end. I was gonna do the same, figured it needed little more support back there, but I think your right on with the flexing issue,,,as long as the trans dont fall/break off the crossmember mounts! lol thanks

[Dano0579]

I have a borg warner t5 nwc transmission to get rid of if someone is looking.

[Dano0579]

Ok, thank you sorry

[jocko]

Hey guys - just wanted to share - Vintage Metalworks now has the T5 adapter for both bell hsg bore sizes. Sharp looking product. This would have been MUCH easier and quicker if I'd had one of these things to start with. If you look in the upper right corner of the page, the upper right link is the small bore and the link right below it is the larger bore adapter.
http://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.co...bore-bell.html

[Lugnutz65]

Modern Drive Line is now selling a cable speedo connection T5 tail housing. Nice item but costs $650-675. Nice feature is that the shifter box accepts the Mustang size shifters which are much more plentiful than the S10 short throw shifters. The high cost is likely to recoup their R&D costs. Just mentioning that it's available. The Tremec 5 and 6 speed boxes seem like a better value than spending $650 on just a tail housing.

[akqj9]

Originally Posted by jocko

-------------------
Below is an rpm comparison for you with your prospective T5's specs (and 29" tire). My T5 had a 3.97 1st gear with a 3.73, so almost the same final drive ratio for 1st gear. This was a BIG concern for me, but it turned out to be not that big of a deal. I could start off in 2nd, but for me personally, 1st gear is what I normally used - I had to shift pretty soon after starting - about 3/4 of the way thru a big intersection, for example, but it was ok for me. For your tastes, you'll have to judge for yourself, but it was less of a problem than I thought it would be.

I'm not sure which bell housing index ring is stock for a 68 - but if it is the large one, you can use one of these to correct the problem (i.e. the good news is that the T5 has the smaller dia, so you can adapt): http://www.advanceadapters.com/produ...-down-to-4686/ (it's an index ring reducer from Advance Adapters - $25).

I bought a new stock flywheel for the engine I was putting it onto (a 283 in my case). Probably need to have someone confirm that your I6 has the same or both bolt patterns on its flywheel before buying. An I6 guy on here could probably answer that - I don't want to say that the Astro Van pressure plate will bolt directly to the stock I6 fly if I'm not sure of it. it is NOT the case that you should buy a flywheel to match what the trans came from - that's not relevant. The key is two-fold:
a) the flywheel must be able to bolt to your crank, and
b) the pressure plate you buy must be able to bolt to your flywheel (and the clutch disk and release bearing should be matched to the pressure plate - that's why I recommend a kit)

The spacer plate you posted a link to is a nice one. This one also works (and the Vintage Metalworks guy is very helpful and informative if you have specific application questions): http://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.co...ter-plate.html

My advice: might consider continue searching for a different T5 (if you choose the T5 route), because the .86 o/d is not a lot of bang for the buck (BUT, keep in mind that a 3.42 is already a very highway friendly cruising gear, so this might not be a bad thing after all....). While the 4.03 1st gear doesn't sound ideal, it's doable with a 3.42 rear gear. What you have will work - but I'd only do it if you are comfortable with the 1st gear and cruising rpms you see in the table below.

However, if you plan on hot-doggin the future LS at all, I'd also recommend skipping the non-WC (or even a WC) T5 and save the 1-time pennies for a TKO. Any T5 won't last long if you like to dump the clutch and do burnouts. Hope that helps!

I was surprised how low the T5 1st gear was and often started out in 2nd with no problem. Now and then I find the granny low useful when I need to go slow in traffic or cruising a parking lot looking for a space. Having the o/d in 5th and no more crappy column linkage as well as full synchro makes it heaven compared to the stock 3 on the tree.

This thread has great info, here is my build thread with a few more photos. This forum was invaluable in my build.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698516

[Slemmy]

Originally Posted by Old Bleu

Allens4876, I first tried to contact Hamilton Intakes about their adapter, and never got any response. I've read here that others had the same experience. Lugnutz put me on to Vintage Metalworks, and I ordered his spacer plate. It fit perfectly and looked to be be very well made. The only modifications that I had to make were shortening the driveshaft, slightly shortening the bearing retainer and slightly lowering the crossmember that holds the e-brake levers on my '64. I still need to get a new speedo gear in my T5 since my speedometer is 15% or so fast with my 3.73 gears. I've also discovered that my T5 is leaking ATF at the speedometer connection, but I'll install a new "bullet" with seal and o-ring when the speedo gear is replaced.

I don't have a lot of miles on mine since the swap, but it definitely makes driving the truck a much more enjoyable experience!

Bringing an old thread back to life with a question - do you know approx how much you had to shorten the bearing retainer for use with the Vintage Metalworks spacer plate? I also bought one from Dave at VM and I'd like to know how much I need to shorten it before i start putting it all back together.

Thanks a million!

[Slemmy]

Originally Posted by Slemmy

Bringing an old thread back to life with a question - do you know approx how much you had to shorten the bearing retainer for use with the Vintage Metalworks spacer plate? I also bought one from Dave at VM and I'd like to know how much I need to shorten it before i start putting it all back together.

Thanks a million!

OK I'm going to answer my own question in case anyone else was wondering the same thing. I spoke with Dave from Vintage Metalworks.

According to Dave, if you are using his spacer plate from Vintage Metalworks:

If you use a 10" clutch disc (NAPA Part number ND4201) then you do NOT need to shorten the bearing retainer. For anyone using an Astro Van clutch disc (11") you will need to shorten the bearing retainer 1/4".

That means that all that needs to be done is a shorter driveshaft and a lowering of the e-brake crossmember and I should be in business! Can't wait...

[Haulinass4]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Modern Drive Line is now selling a cable speedo connection T5 tail housing. Nice item but costs $650-675. Nice feature is that the shifter box accepts the Mustang size shifters which are much more plentiful than the S10 short throw shifters. The high cost is likely to recoup their R&D costs. Just mentioning that it's available. The Tremec 5 and 6 speed boxes seem like a better value than spending $650 on just a tail housing.

So I have a 88 camaro t5 with a 95 s10 tailhousing to go into a 66 c10. I’ve been trying to find out what the replacement shifter would be and I can’t find anything. The mustang shifter bolts up to the s10 housing??? I’ve trying to figure this out for a while and can’t seem to get a straight answer. Just trying to find out the choices I guess
Posted via Mobile Device

[Slemmy]

Originally Posted by Haulinass4

So I have a 88 camaro t5 with a 95 s10 tailhousing to go into a 66 c10. I’ve been trying to find out what the replacement shifter would be and I can’t find anything. The mustang shifter bolts up to the s10 housing??? I’ve trying to figure this out for a while and can’t seem to get a straight answer. Just trying to find out the choices I guess
Posted via Mobile Device

The mustang shifter will not work as the size of the plate is different than that of an S10 T-5 tail housing. I made the mistake of buying a mustang shifter for my T-5. You'll need a GM S10 T-5 shifter like this one Here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Shifte...zzylmg&vxp=mtr

Although I wouldn't recommend spending that kind of money -- just look for a used shifter (in working condition) that fits an 83-95 S10. I found mine for $20 on eBay.

Good luck!

[Haulinass4]

Originally Posted by Slemmy

The mustang shifter will not work as the size of the plate is different than that of an S10 T-5 tail housing. I made the mistake of buying a mustang shifter for my T-5. You'll need a GM S10 T-5 shifter like this one Here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Shifte...zzylmg&vxp=mtr

Although I wouldn't recommend spending that kind of money -- just look for a used shifter (in working condition) that fits an 83-95 S10. I found mine for $20 on eBay.

Good luck!

I have the factory s10 shifter on there I just don’t want the goose neck post that comes on it and it’s really sloppy inside. I want the straight up post with the more universal flat style to change the stick. I was hoping to not have to cut it open to replace the post.....after you buy all the bits to fix it and put it back together seems like 200 isn’t that bad but I don’t really know how much work it really is. The neck is what’s killing this for me. I’m trying to get everything lined up before I install it this is the first big project on the truck and don’t want it to drag it out just because I don’t know the correct path and start ordering the wrong stuff. Any advice helps 👍🏻👍🏻
Posted via Mobile Device

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Slemmy

The mustang shifter will not work as the size of the plate is different than that of an S10 T-5 tail housing. I made the mistake of buying a mustang shifter for my T-5. You'll need a GM S10 T-5 shifter like this one Here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Shifte...zzylmg&vxp=mtr

Although I wouldn't recommend spending that kind of money -- just look for a used shifter (in working condition) that fits an 83-95 S10. I found mine for $20 on eBay.

Good luck!

I have a short throw S10 shifter that works great. Send me a PM.

[UrbanC10]

Does anyone happen to know how much you have to trim off the bearing retainer if you’re not using the spacer plate?

Looks like my original 3spd one is about 3 1/4 inches long.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by UrbanC10

Does anyone happen to know how much you have to trim off the bearing retainer if you’re not using the spacer plate?

Looks like my original 3spd one is about 3 1/4 inches long.

Yes, 3 + 1/4” is the correct length. Make it the same length as your old tranny.