52 inch springs

[CG]

This is something that for some reason I just haven't been able to wrap my pea brain around. I dunno why, maybe I need to actually hold some in my hands hah.

There are at least two companies that offer the kits that enable you to install 52 inch front springs. (Two that I know of and mostly likely more) One offers a kit that converts your current 4x4 front axle to 52 inch springs, and one offers a kit to convert the front of your C truck so you can install the 52 inch springs when doing a full conversion from C to K. Right now I'm only talking about the front axles and only talking about 67-72 trucks.

So lets say I want a set of 52 inch springs for the front of a 67-72 that has a conversion kit, what do I look up in order to purchase these springs? Are they 73 and ? fronts, or rears that you then use on the front? Not talking about springs that have any sort of lift, just plain old stock 52 inch springs.

[Richard]

Any 52" long spring will work. Even rears from a 67-72. Length is measured along the arch on spring, not in a straight plane. Some have confusion regarding lift after conversion. The conversion brackets provide no lift, unless going to a longer than 4" shackle. Stock rear springs have more arch than the fronts so the conversion typically nets 4"-5" of lift depending on spring and shackle used. IMO an old pair of rears will probably net better results than a new pair of rears. Unless going with new from Deaver, Alcan or Atlas. A bit pricy, but you could also have springs made with less lift if you want.

[CG]

Ok so what I think I finally get is any Chevy 52 inch works when doing a front conversion. Typically you would source these springs from the rear to use on your front conversion. Even though the "kit" doesn't result in a lift in itself (unless you use a longer shackle), you will still have a lift because when you source your 52 inch spring they typically have a higher arch then a front stock spring. So use an older spring that has relaxed some, or have new springs made to the specs of the lift or non lift you want to achieve ... Am I finally understanding?

[57taskforce]

Yes CG, you’ve got the basics figured out.

[CG]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Yes CG, you’ve got the basics figured out.

It only took me 6 threads to finally get it haha! I appreciate you guys that can help a sometimes simpleton =)

[Zoomad75]

If it were me I’d do some digging over on CK5.com over the whole 52” spring conversion.

Reason being is unless you are building a full on crawler the benefits don’t lean to a road going truck too well.

The stock rear 52” springs are soft. Most of the complaints I’ve read is on the street/highway there is a lot of sway and generally mushy feeling to the suspension. It’s bad enough many trailer them to the trailhead vs driving them long distances on the highway.

The length allows more flex with less of an arch than say a 4-6” lift spring of stock length. More flex come as more wheel travel and changes to shock mounts need to be addressed as even average “lift kit” shocks may not have enough travel for a 52” swap.

I think part of the handling issue comes in from most converting to crossover steering to take full advantage of the new higher wheel travel/flex. Doing so typically will eliminate a factory sway bar if you had one as it takes the same space as the new crossover steering.


There are guys driving trucks with 52” springs on the street/highway but they have taken considerable time in taking care of those issues. ORD does make a sway bar kit specifically for trucks with crossover steering to address that issue.

I personally wouldn’t go to 52’s for my setup as it would be overkill. I don’t hit the rocks that hard and mine sees thousands of highway miles just getting to trailheads.

If you are going crawling it’s a great setup for sure. If you are doing mild wheeling with street duty I’d look at stock length softride springs or custom units from ORD, Alcan or Deaver.
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[CG]

Only reason Im talking about the 52's is when you are using a "kit" to go from a C to a K they all seem to use the 52 inch springs. I don't have the skill set to do this from scratch and I would want to use what I have and keep my frame and vin the same numbers.

[57taskforce]

CG, my suggestion if you are wanting to convert is to see if you can round up the factory 67-72 front 4x4 spring hangers and do the swap that way. There’s several builds on here that outline it pretty good. It takes a little welding to plate and fill in the e brake cable holes on the C frame but other than that it’s not terrible. I bet a post on the classifieds would get you what you’d need to do it all. I was gonna post earlier on the 52’s in agreement on them not being the most road friendly.

[Zoomad75]

Originally Posted by CG

Only reason Im talking about the 52's is when you are using a "kit" to go from a C to a K they all seem to use the 52 inch springs. I don't have the skill set to do this from scratch and I would want to use what I have and keep my frame and vin the same numbers.

I get it, they designed the kit around the 52" spring for ride quality. Not saying that won't work. But it's also why I directed you to CK5.com for the reality of what those springs give. If the truck is not going rock crawling, I'd plan on putting some type of sway bar on the truck.

The one kit I found from Tin Works fab doesn't even address the steering.

I understand you don't want to swap frames to keep the numbers matching, but that shouldn't stop you from finding a K10 frame and using it to harvest the parts to do the conversion that way. Yes, it's more work.

It totally comes down to the plan of use for the truck and your ability to perform the swap.

[Richard]

I do not understand the resistance to the 52" swap? Will ride better on road without custom leaf packs With a commercially available sway bar I see no reason not to do it. I discarded the 52" swap idea as I was going to use custom leaf packs. Reason was for a bit more I could do coilovers. Initial spring rate is probably softer on my coilovers. Expect a great on-road manners with a swaybar. Something to consider for some is I have the capability to pretty much do the entire coilover install myself.

['63GENIII]

A little late to the party but here's my .02 from first hand experience...

Even though I did not "convert" from a C to a K, I ran the 52s in the front and the 63s in the rear of my '63. I built mine with "truck" use in mind. Hauling rock, firewood, dirt bikes, towing and simply going down the highway when I feel like taking it for a drive.
I wanted to keep the original ride height of my '63. No higher and no lower. I had 35" BFG MT's on it at the time. My focus was on having a better ride for the 3 to 6 hour trips that I frequently take it on.
The hangers you end up using are really up to you, (I ran the B52s) but it really boils down to the springs that you use. I took the trial an error approach and found a set from what I was told was a '73 Heavy Half ton. To be honest, I got them because they were close and the price was right. I figured that they'd be fine supporting the big block, hydraulic winch and a lightweight warn bumper. Maybe too simplistic but I reckoned that I would put all of that stuff in the bed of a truck at the same time to haul it somewhere, why wouldn't the springs work on the front axle? Reality of it was, I made a lucky guess.
When I first drove it, it was without the front sway bar. I didn't even have one yet. Full transparency here - this will test your sphincter muscles in very short order. It was a much different sway than anything Id ever driven. Also more transparency - the addition of an 1-1/8 (or maybe a 1-1/4) off of a mid '70s Blazer easily hemmed up the issue.
Zoomad is correct in that the springs do provide more travel and if I were to be in situations where I may be flexing to the point of getting full droop, I would certainly install some limit straps or some trick coil over things without question. I've never bottomed the shocks that I know of. They are some 14 year old Rancho RS9000s that I crawl under and adjust once in a while when I think of it . This is a tow rig and doubles as a daily for my son, myself and friends occasionally. It doesn't have "personality" or hiccups when it comes to drivability and in its current configuration, Ive got right around 35k miles combined towing / driving and just being a truck.

I know that the 52s aren't everybody's cup of tea but they provided me the following that the short springs probably couldn't touch..
1. The opportunity to get fantastic ride quality in the truck I love to drive.
2. Retain its intended capability. (in fact towing / hauling is better now)
3. Allowed me to move the front axle forward 1" which centered the wheel in the wheel well (no more tire rub on the back of the fender).
4. Kept the lift about as original as possible. Maybe 1/2" higher than before. The truck had 4" factory blocks in the rear and some horrible add a leaf in the front.
5. Kept the stock push pull power steering configuration. Never an issue with bump steer. Never needed a stabilizer.
6. The truck will comfortably stay with the traffic I encounter here. I normally drive 70-75 on the highway but 80 - 85 hanging with some of those newer power strokes isn't an issue either.

Whenever someone rides in the truck, there always the comment about the ride. Its pretty great if I say so myself. Never really rock crawled it so I can't comment on that.

I wish I was closer to you. I'd let you take her for a drive in a heartbeat. If youre ever down my way, get ahold of me and we could meet up.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

A little late to the party but here's my .02 from first hand experience...

Even though I did not "convert" from a C to a K, I ran the 52s in the front and the 63s in the rear of my '63. I built mine with "truck" use in mind. Hauling rock, firewood, dirt bikes, towing and simply going down the highway when I feel like taking it for a drive.
I wanted to keep the original ride height of my '63. No higher and no lower. I had 35" BFG MT's on it at the time. My focus was on having a better ride for the 3 to 6 hour trips that I frequently take it on.
The hangers you end up using are really up to you, (I ran the B52s) but it really boils down to the springs that you use. I took the trial an error approach and found a set from what I was told was a '73 Heavy Half ton. To be honest, I got them because they were close and the price was right. I figured that they'd be fine supporting the big block, hydraulic winch and a lightweight warn bumper. Maybe too simplistic but I reckoned that I would put all of that stuff in the bed of a truck at the same time to haul it somewhere, why wouldn't the springs work on the front axle? Reality of it was, I made a lucky guess.
When I first drove it, it was without the front sway bar. I didn't even have one yet. Full transparency here - this will test your sphincter muscles in very short order. It was a much different sway than anything Id ever driven. Also more transparency - the addition of an 1-1/8 (or maybe a 1-1/4) off of a mid '70s Blazer easily hemmed up the issue.
Zoomad is correct in that the springs do provide more travel and if I were to be in situations where I may be flexing to the point of getting full droop, I would certainly install some limit straps or some trick coil over things without question. I've never bottomed the shocks that I know of. They are some 14 year old Rancho RS9000s that I crawl under and adjust once in a while when I think of it . This is a tow rig and doubles as a daily for my son, myself and friends occasionally. It doesn't have "personality" or hiccups when it comes to drivability and in its current configuration, Ive got right around 35k miles combined towing / driving and just being a truck.

I know that the 52s aren't everybody's cup of tea but they provided me the following that the short springs probably couldn't touch..
1. The opportunity to get fantastic ride quality in the truck I love to drive.
2. Retain its intended capability. (in fact towing / hauling is better now)
3. Allowed me to move the front axle forward 1" which centered the wheel in the wheel well (no more tire rub on the back of the fender).
4. Kept the lift about as original as possible. Maybe 1/2" higher than before. The truck had 4" factory blocks in the rear and some horrible add a leaf in the front.
5. Kept the stock push pull power steering configuration. Never an issue with bump steer. Never needed a stabilizer.
6. The truck will comfortably stay with the traffic I encounter here. I normally drive 70-75 on the highway but 80 - 85 hanging with some of those newer power strokes isn't an issue either.

Whenever someone rides in the truck, there always the comment about the ride. Its pretty great if I say so myself. Never really rock crawled it so I can't comment on that.

I wish I was closer to you. I'd let you take her for a drive in a heartbeat. If youre ever down my way, get ahold of me and we could meet up.

Good to see a post with firsthand experience. Your experience confirms the outcome I was expecting.

[CG]

I bought a DIY4x4 B52 kit. I'm not ready for it at all. I'm preparing for a project I can play with out in my shop when I'm inclined. And I'm undecided on what ONE 67-72 I want to end up with, a burb, panel, or a truck. Ill definitely start a thread when (if) I ever get there. Thanks for all the input on the several threads I have had about this. You guys are very understanding haha.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by CG

I bought a DIY4x4 B52 kit. I'm not ready for it at all. I'm preparing for a project I can play with out in my shop when I'm inclined. And I'm undecided on what ONE 67-72 I want to end up with, a burb, panel, or a truck. Ill definitely start a thread when (if) I ever get there. Thanks for all the input on the several threads I have had about this. You guys are very understanding haha.

Honestly Mark, we are all broke and would really like to help you spend your money . Heck, we will even help you decide on which truck to get into. You were subtly asking for our opinion again.....werent you?

Whichever way you go I hope you get your ideal ride and consider me subscribed to your build!

[CG]

Oh no I just saw this in the Craigslist Finds. Maybe just a little less beefy so it would be easier to climb up and actually be able to use the back.

[57taskforce]

Mark, you know you need that panel with the stash you let go of you owe it to yourself to replenish

Great looking panel.

[CG]

Oh I have a panel. Ive tried to shake it many times, but keeps coming back to me lol.

Those pieces hanging on the wall have been there close to 20 years, just very carefully covered by blankets and then steel cabinets. Im taking the body second weekend of September to be totally cleaned and polished by the fella the did all the work all those years ago. I was unsure what I was going to do ... but now??? Haha!

[cadillac_al]

This was an interesting read. I have always wanted to put longer springs on my square body for a better ride with more wheel travel. I will probably never get time to do it until I retire. I do know that a lot of people don't like a soft ride. I also drive a 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee and a lot of guys on that forum complain about the flexibility and articulation causing a too soft ride. A fair amount of them put stiffer sway bars on them so they can carve corners on the highways. I don't understand it but there are people out there that feel that way. I grew up riding in Cadillacs so I appreciate a suspension that soaks up bumps.

PS the farmers around here used to buy their C10 trucks without sway bars for riding around the farms. The independent suspension lets the truck walk over bumps and humps on the ground. With a sway bar the whole truck hops up and down over every little hump.

[CG]

This always happens ... After a very long time of trying to figure out the best way to do this I settled for my recently purchased B52 set up. I happen to have several C trucks I can convert now going with leafs or trailing arm. Either way works, just needed to decide. Sure I could have purchased a K chassis, but Ive dealt with the cab and frame non matching numbers before and I don't want to do it again.

Earlier this week one of my local car/truck buddy calls (he's a Ford guy). He has a friend with a 71 LWB K truck he wants to get rid of. Its down to the frame and running gear (auto) less the engine, and its beyond cheap. Comes with ALL of the pertinent paper work and "assets" Ill need to put together a matching numbers and "asset" K of my own. So I snapped it up. I wont be using the B52 set up on this. Eventually Ill post it and a bunch of my other K bits and pieces up for sale on the parts board. Ill bring this thread BTT when I'm ready to list so you K guys get a heads up.

I really appreciate everyone's help with all my silly questions, and helping me wrap my pea brain around this stuff ... Thanks again!

[57taskforce]

Sounds like a great score Mark, I look forward to seeing what you do with it! They are hard to find with all the important stuff still present and at a great price. Congrats!

[birdistheword]

So I'm towards the end of doing the 52"/56" spring swap on my truck. Definitely wasn't fun knocking out all the rivets. The only issues I ran into was having to grind down the lower inner frame rail where the shackle was rubbing, having to make some body mount shims to get the body lined up, and probably going to have to get some pinion angle shims made. I'm using the DIY4X b52 kit, a newish set of 52" rear springs with the bottom thick leaf off, and 6" shackles up front. The rear is a used set of 56" springs, 6" shackles, and ORD shackle flip kit mounted 4" to the rear of the stock position.

[CG]

Originally Posted by birdistheword

So I'm towards the end of doing the 52"/56" spring swap on my truck. Definitely wasn't fun knocking out all the rivets. The only issues I ran into was having to grind down the lower inner frame rail where the shackle was rubbing, having to make some body mount shims to get the body lined up, and probably going to have to get some pinion angle shims made. I'm using the DIY4X b52 kit, a newish set of 52" rear springs with the bottom thick leaf off, and 6" shackles up front. The rear is a used set of 56" springs, 6" shackles, and ORD shackle flip kit mounted 4" to the rear of the stock position.

You look to be working in a tight space! I would love to see a bunch of pics if you documented everything you did. Going to be nice!

[birdistheword]

CG,
Yeah it's tight in a deep one car garage but I make it work. I didn't really take many pictures along the way because of that. I'm just down in Tacoma if you find yourself down in the area and want to check it out.

[CG]

Here is the link to the DIY B52 kit Im letting go

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=838383