Manual vs Power brakes..

[k7elh]

Hey guys,

I recently purchased a 1970 C10 CST and it has manual brakes. I was looking into doing a disc swap for the fronts (I hate replacing drum brakes) and going power.

But I see some people saying they are sticking with manual or switching to manual brakes. My brakes I have to practically stand on to get the truck to stop. Not safe at all. I can't imaging anyone wanting that, so I'm left with wondering if there is something else wrong with my brakes.

What could cause the brakes to be so damned hard? Clogged brake lines?

Thanks for any advice.

Eric

[72SB]

Your soft lines, if old, are likely getting clogged inside.

I got my 72 last April. Had the original manual disc/drum brakes and you had to absolutely stand on the pedal, and it still was sketchy. While my truck has had apparently a sheltered life with 114k mi on it, the brakes were done. I chose to go power and glad I did. CPP booster & MC along with a complete brake job front/rear including new soft lines, calipers/pads, drums, shoes, spring kit, wheel cylinders. Truck stops like a modern truck/car now.

All drum systems "can" work well when adjusted correctly assuming all components are functioning but will never stop as well in rain as disc brakes.

[truckster]

Drum brakes are not going to stop like disc brakes. Manual brakes are not going to stop like power brakes. If you want more braking power, stick with your plan to go to power discs.

[Steeveedee]

It shouldn't take that much effort to stop your truck, so yes, something is wrong...unless you're 4'-10" tall and weigh 83 pounds, like one of my ex-girlfriends. Going to power brakes alone likely won't cure the problem. Flex lines have been mentioned. Replacing those would be a good start, but don't replace the front flex hoses until you've decided on disc brakes (or not). I personally favor front disc brakes and several years ago when a wheel cylinder failed on my truck, that's the way I went. Given that the front suspension parts were original, that was a no-brainer. I rebuilt the front suspension while I was at it.

[dmjlambert]

I did a disc swap on the front for my 69 CST/10, using 71 spindles and brakes and steering center link, new ball joints and tie rods for 71-72, new 71-72 steel front brake lines, new 69 front to rear and rear steel brake lines, a used 71-72 combination valve that I sent for rebuild to White Post Restorations, and a manual disc/drum master cylinder NAPA part M36280, and good condition restored 71 drum brakes for the rear. The brakes feel quite good and don't take very much pedal effort. I'm glad I did manual brakes.

I have heard glazed brake shoes/pads/drums/discs can make stopping effort bad. I would inspect everything and rebuild the rear drum brakes, and replace all hard lines and hoses. I do like going with disc brakes in front because the truck stops very straight. With drum brakes in front, unless they are perfectly adjusted, will cause swerving with urgent braking.

[NJ68stepside]

IMHO. Never go cheap on brakes and tires. I bought Baer 6 piston 14” brakes for the front and 4 piston for the rear. Then setup a hydroboost.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by NJ68stepside

IMHO. Never go cheap on brakes and tires. I bought Baer 6 piston 14” brakes for the front and 4 piston for the rear. Then setup a hydroboost.

Which is complete overkill & expensive unless you're racing it.
If it is a street truck just convert to the 71-72 stuff. Makes the most sense.

[special-K]

These trucks came with safe brakes. They are old now. The expensive fancy expensive modern brakes they sell today will need attention due to poor braking one day. It's people that make properly functioning brakes unsafe.

Many like manual brakes on hi-performance vehicles to not be robbing vacuum. my neighbor built a hot rod '68 short bed with ZZ3/Muncie 4spd/3.42s and put manual discs on front. The truck stops safe. Power brakes only decrease effort, not increase braking. The actual brake components at the wheel are the same.

[dmack91]

When I first got the 68 C20 that my son now has, it was all factory with manual drums all around. Same issues, had to stand on it to get it to stop. Still the same after rebuilding all 4 corners. Found a used factory booster and simply bolted it in . After that, it stopped like a newer truck. Night and day difference. Have since done a full crossmember swap from a squarebody to get front discs.

[k7elh]

Originally Posted by dmack91

When I first got the 68 C20 that my son now has, it was all factory with manual drums all around. Same issues, had to stand on it to get it to stop. Still the same after rebuilding all 4 corners. Found a used factory booster and simply bolted it in . After that, it stopped like a newer truck. Night and day difference. Have since gone a full crossmember swap from a squarebody to get front discs.

So I went to the local boneyard today and picked up a used brake booster from a 71 C10, I'll get that thing installed and see how it goes.

I'm still planning on doing a disc swap in the front, but until then, I'll go with this. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Thanks...