Hack: Cheap 67-72 Adjustable Panhard Bar

[rc10coleman]

I've been guarding this secret for a few years now, but I'm gonna let it out of the bag.

When I lowered my 67 C10, I wanted to find a low cost adjustable panhard bar, or perhaps make my own...

But first a little background... I was a professional mechanic / shop owner from about 1986-2002. One of my areas of specialty was wheel alignment and suspension. During that time, the FWD Pontiac GP, Chevy Lumina/MC, and Olds Cutlass were in their heyday, so I aligned hundreds of those cars.

… back to the C!0: When I looked at the size, and mounting hardware of the C10 bar, I thought to myself… “that looks very similar to the rear control arm of a Grand Prix”. I just so happened to have a wrecked one nearby, so I did some measuring… Paydirt!

The rear toe setting for the Grand Prix is accomplished by a turnbuckle style adjustable rod that Is the same length and size as a C10 panhard bar. The only modification that is required is to drill the center bushing sleeve hole on each end out to the required 5/8” diameter (make sure you use a good quality drill bit, because that is a hard little bushing that gets hot fast).

The only reservation I had was that the Grand Prix bar is hollow instead of solid, but after 3 years and 13,000 miles of some very “spirited” driving, powered by a healthy LS6 (400+ HP) and 3.73 gears, I’ve had no issues whatsoever. (It would take a situation outside normal operation to create a force on the bar that would tend to bend it anyway).

There’s plenty of adjustment for the 5” drop that I went with.

These can be had for $10 from a junkyard in my area… and there’s plenty of them! Look for a 1997-2008 Grand Prix, Lumina, Monte Carlo. Be warned to take a 1" and a 15/16" (or metric equivalent) open-end wrench with you and make sure the jam nuts/sleeve aren’t frozen before you buy. It was very common for those to freeze up beyond repair - especially on Northern cars. I think the end bushing wrench size you’ll need is a 15mm and a 18mm, but not 100% sure… take a 13mm and 21mm too.

New versions can be purchased for under $25. The Moog part number is RK660276, and the AC Delco number is 45G36010.

[ryans69chevy]

That's a pretty cool mod! Easy enough too! I'm sure for being a mechanic for that long you have many more "ideas" so keep them coming!!

[jessemthompson]

Originally Posted by rc10coleman

I've been guarding this secret for a few years now, but I'm gonna let it out of the bag.

When I lowered my 67 C10, I wanted to find a low cost adjustable panhard bar, or perhaps make my own...

But first a little background... I was a professional mechanic / shop owner from about 1986-2002. One of my areas of specialty was wheel alignment and suspension. During that time, the FWD Pontiac GP, Chevy Lumina/MC, and Olds Cutlass were in their heyday, so I aligned hundreds of those cars.

… back to the C!0: When I looked at the size, and mounting hardware of the C10 bar, I thought to myself… “that looks very similar to the rear control arm of a Grand Prix”. I just so happened to have a wrecked one nearby, so I did some measuring… Paydirt!

The rear toe setting for the Grand Prix is accomplished by a turnbuckle style adjustable rod that Is the same length and size as a C10 panhard bar. The only modification that is required is to drill the center bushing sleeve hole on each end out to the required 5/8” diameter (make sure you use a good quality drill bit, because that is a hard little bushing that gets hot fast).

The only reservation I had was that the Grand Prix bar is hollow instead of solid, but after 3 years and 13,000 miles of some very “spirited” driving, powered by a healthy LS6 (400+ HP) and 3.73 gears, I’ve had no issues whatsoever. (It would take a situation outside normal operation to create a force on the bar that would tend to bend it anyway).

There’s plenty of adjustment for the 5” drop that I went with.

These can be had for $10 from a junkyard in my area… and there’s plenty of them! Look for a 1997-2008 Grand Prix, Lumina, Monte Carlo. Be warned to take a 1" and a 15/16" (or metric equivalent) open-end wrench with you and make sure the jam nuts/sleeve aren’t frozen before you buy. It was very common for those to freeze up beyond repair - especially on Northern cars. I think the end bushing wrench size you’ll need is a 15mm and a 18mm, but not 100% sure… take a 13mm and 21mm too.

New versions can be purchased for under $25. The Moog part number is RK660276, and the AC Delco number is 45G36010.

Great info sir. I just ordered one from rock auto. Only $18. It beats paying $120!
Posted via Mobile Device

[cj847]

Great hack!

I am interested in your wheel tire combo. Please give details and a pic.

Thanks.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by rc10coleman

I've been guarding this secret for a few years now, but I'm gonna let it out of the bag.

When I lowered my 67 C10, I wanted to find a low cost adjustable panhard bar, or perhaps make my own...

But first a little background... I was a professional mechanic / shop owner from about 1986-2002. One of my areas of specialty was wheel alignment and suspension. During that time, the FWD Pontiac GP, Chevy Lumina/MC, and Olds Cutlass were in their heyday, so I aligned hundreds of those cars.

… back to the C!0: When I looked at the size, and mounting hardware of the C10 bar, I thought to myself… “that looks very similar to the rear control arm of a Grand Prix”. I just so happened to have a wrecked one nearby, so I did some measuring… Paydirt!

The rear toe setting for the Grand Prix is accomplished by a turnbuckle style adjustable rod that Is the same length and size as a C10 panhard bar. The only modification that is required is to drill the center bushing sleeve hole on each end out to the required 5/8” diameter (make sure you use a good quality drill bit, because that is a hard little bushing that gets hot fast).

The only reservation I had was that the Grand Prix bar is hollow instead of solid, but after 3 years and 13,000 miles of some very “spirited” driving, powered by a healthy LS6 (400+ HP) and 3.73 gears, I’ve had no issues whatsoever. (It would take a situation outside normal operation to create a force on the bar that would tend to bend it anyway).

There’s plenty of adjustment for the 5” drop that I went with.

These can be had for $10 from a junkyard in my area… and there’s plenty of them! Look for a 1997-2008 Grand Prix, Lumina, Monte Carlo. Be warned to take a 1" and a 15/16" (or metric equivalent) open-end wrench with you and make sure the jam nuts/sleeve aren’t frozen before you buy. It was very common for those to freeze up beyond repair - especially on Northern cars. I think the end bushing wrench size you’ll need is a 15mm and a 18mm, but not 100% sure… take a 13mm and 21mm too.

New versions can be purchased for under $25. The Moog part number is RK660276, and the AC Delco number is 45G36010.

would this work for a bagged truck?

[cj847]

[QUOTE=rc10coleman;8348935]

I've been guarding this secret for a few years now, but I'm gonna let it out of the bag.

When I lowered my 67 C10, I wanted to find a low cost adjustable panhard bar, or perhaps make my own...

The only modification that is required is to drill the center bushing sleeve hole on each end out to the required 5/8” diameter (make sure you use a good quality drill bit, because that is a hard little bushing that gets hot fast).

Like most hacks there is always a catch. A good 5/8" drill bit will cost as much as the new trac bar. So, about $40 all in vs $55 for a CPP trac bar. Also, MORE IMPORTANT, is that most 5/8" bits are 1/2" shank. So you have to have a drill press or a HD hand drill.

Just pointing it out as I ordered this trac bar off Rock auto before thinking thru the story.

[72bowtiestepper]

Great tip ! thanks for sharing.....I love using parts from other vehicles whenever possible instead of aftermarket stuff.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 72bowtiestepper

great tip ! Thanks for sharing.....i love using parts from other vehicles whenever possible instead of aftermarket stuff.

just picked mine up off AMAZON for $27 bucks

not looking forward to drilling them bushings at all, LOL

wonder if the cost of a proper drill bit (or seven in my case) will offset the savings

[mrobvious34]

To add to an old thread, I did this to my truck yesterday. For those of you that are talking about drilling out the sleeve to 5/8s, I did not have to do that. My original one had steel sleeves in the bushings already. They were still shiny zinc plated so I assume that they had been replace by the PO so I dont know if all have trucks had steel sleeves from factory or not. If they do, I found that the OD of the sleeve in the original bar and they new one were the same, I was able to simply push out the sleeves from each bushing and swap them. I didnt need a press, just a C-clamp and some sockets and was able to slide the new one right on the truck. The whole swap took me less than 15 minutes