Engine/Trans Swap LQ4 - 4L80e into bone stock 1971 Chevy C20 camper special

[binford]

My stock 350 motor is burning its fair share of oil these days...
So I bought a wrecked 2006 Chevy van 3500 for the motor, transmission and related electrical parts.

I read a few of the swaps here and found some great info, figured I would add the knowledge.

I've owned the truck for at least 10 years. It's bone stock but has power steering, power brakes, front disc brakes, and air conditioning.
I like the look of the truck in stock form and two tone paint. Currently Orchid and White.

My plan is to clean up the engine bay, fix a couple minor rust issues and do the engine and trans swap.

I will need to figure out where to host images, so I can post pictures. Any good places?

[binford]

Tried adding photos but they were huge. I will resize and repost.

I'm removing the all front sheet metal for access and minor rust repair.

[uxdesigner]

Photobucket is what I use and works well, plus free. I'm currently in the swap process myself and I see your in Sac. I'm in Rocklin, you're more than welcome to come by and take a look and I can share what I've learned.

[jocko]

Resizing and using the site's capability is better. Seems when folks use photobucket, you eventually see a cat and photo not available, or something like that. Quite annoying... The site's attachment function works fine. Sometimes big pics need to be shrunk a bit. Interested in your swap, looking fwd to pics and progress.

[binford]

ok lets see how these work.

[binford]

It looks like its pretty easy to move the motor mounts back to fit the LQ9. I'm hoping this will make room for the A/C compressor.

[binford]

With it being so cold outside when I get home, clean up and paint can wait.
Decided to figure out how the engine sits between the frame.
Started hooking up a chain to the motor when I noticed both rear exhaust bolts are broken. Goggle confirmed common LSx issue.

They look to be flush with the head too

[binford]

try this photo.

[binford]

Notice how Chevy gave the exhaust manifold a larger hole lateral, but none in the vertical axis.
Reading else where, people are drilling out the manifold one drill bit size bigger to allow movement. Another option is studs, but I don't think studs will work well in my application as the manifolds are going to be close to the frame as it is. i.e cant take the manifolds off without lifting the motor.

[binford]

Originally Posted by uxdesigner

Photobucket is what I use and works well, plus free. I'm currently in the swap process myself and I see your in Sac. I'm in Rocklin, you're more than welcome to come by and take a look and I can share what I've learned.

I might take you up on this when I get a bit farther.

Been busy with holiday stuff, time to get back at it. I removed the exhaust manifold and noticed that just the rear ear hole is smaller then the rest of the holes. Once I get the broken bolt out of the head, I will drill the exhaust manifold out to match the other holes. I assume GM made the rear hole smaller for assembly reasons.

[binford]

It's been over a year, and finally getting back on this project.

I removed the broken exhaust bolt and bought some Camaro exhaust manifolds.
Started on the wiring harness, got everything removed that was not part of the PCM.

[krue]

I got lucky and the 3 bolts that were broken in my 6.0l came out with an ez out. See my thread, my project is very similar to yours. You may be slightly ahead of me tho.

[binford]

What bolts or studs are you going to use on exhaust manifold?

I'm comfortable with the harness mod, LT1Swap.com posted some great videos
click here

[binford]

Dropped of the exhaust manifolds at the powder coat place.
Ceramic coat should help with under the hood temps.

[binford]

I have an 06 van harness and they are way different then a truck harness. Much longer, and different connectors.
So I started at the PCM, removing the wires from the blue connector. You need to unwrap all the way to the plastic harness holder that bolts to the engine. Similar to the truck several pink wires make a U turn and go to a large electrical connector. Its a long way from the PCM to the block with pink wires, maybe 12'

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A91prptr1dsCqtML8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7WHCAK2cnXvEQJ3C9

[binford]

Finally back working on the truck.
Ordered a ton of parts.

Got the firewall painted and the tranny tunnel primed

[binford]

Got the fire wall insulated

[clay68c10]

That’s going to be a nice ride with that drivetrain.
What are you using for the insulation?

[binford]

I bought Design Engineering floor & tunnel shield on summit racing. Its pretty tough stuff as you need tin snips to cut it. 14 sq feet. still have a bit left over.

With everything out it was easy to install.
I will add more after the engine is in.
I looked at my brothers new Chevy pickup and it has something similar, the OEM stuff looks a bit thicker on insulation. This stuff has a thicker aluminum shield.
I've used this on a different truck and it made a huge difference on inside cab temps during the summer.

[binford]

Ok, the truck is getting some love after like 5 years.

Pic of the painted fire wall.


The engine and trans are mounted and I started on the radiator and fan shroud install.
Not many seem to use the stock engine driven fan. I pick up a fan shroud on ebay for a newer C10 and it fits the larger 19.5 " fan. Working on hoses

Since parts are always slowing me down, I switch gears a lot and work on other items.
I got the hydro boost brakes installed and working.
Got the exhaust started, need to order more stuff.
Switch over to working on fuel, got some old gas lines out that went to the aux tanks. Looking for adapters to take every to -6 AN and use Aeroquip PTFE Racing, Braided Stainless Steel. Pick up an inline pump bracket from a 1986 Ford Bronco at the junk yard. They hold the pump and keeps it quite and its easy to convert to -6 AN.