new gmt800 owner, please help me sort some stuff out

[Stephen717]

So I recently came into possession of a 1999 Silverado z71 with a 5.3 while visiting friends and family over thanksgiving break from the school work I'm doing for my new job and it didn't have a key, replaced the lock cylinder (after removing the steering wheel to get the old one out), cut the two wires in the column for the passlock system thinking that was the reason it wasn't staying running because the previous owner showed that it ran fine (when hotwired which is what made me think they messed up the passlock system to begin with) when I was working on getting it on a trailer to bring back south. While I was crawling around under the truck I found the abs module needs replaced and I found a clogged fuel filter, replaced the filter, truck runs great, idles around 500 rpm. so I guess my questions are should I get an abs module from pick and pull and try it or reroute the brake lines to a tee and a union to bypass the abs system all together? and should I get a new matched ignition and lock cylinder set so everything works off one key and hook the passlock system back up or should I just leave it disabled and call a locksmith to get a key made for the doors? I was also looking at getting a new key fob since I didn't get one with the truck and was wondering if it would work without the passlock system being hooked up.

any insight to these problems would be greatly appreciated as I've never owned a vehicle this new. pics of the truck will be up shortly

[Stephen717]

pics

[Stephen717]

more pics

[Stephen717]

and even more pics

[hatzie]

If you have an ignition key and cylinder that work you can re-key the door and spare tire locks to match the ignition key fairly easily.
Look in my build thread for an explanation of how to key the locks. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...8&postcount=22
You can re-key locks or get fresh new locks with wafers to build. It's not as frightening as it sounds.
The door lock cylinders are in the door handles and the spare tire lock is in the end of the tube next to the license plate.

If you can find a decent ABS motor setup I'd install it. The ABS handles the brake bias similar to the combination valves on older rigs.

A 30 minute security learn is easy if your truck has security. Mine did not.

The FOBS are programmed separate from the keys. They're cheap. Just get the correct FOB Program it and go. The GM FOB that came with my 2005 K2500 is 15132197.
If you have fobs with deteriorated rubber and/or damaged plastic cases you can buy cases with rubber buttons and no circuit board for a little less than $7 to swap your OEM FOB board(s) into.

[IIGW]

remove the throttle body spacer and toss it in the trash.
Those do nothing and cause the intake tube to fit worse.

[biketopia]

Also look for added wires and modules. Looks like it has/had a remote start installed and depending on how it was wired and operates it could be giving you problems. What makes you think the ABS module is bad by looking at it from under the truck? On those years typically the relay board on top of the valve body fails internally. You can buy a replacement from Dorman I believe and just swap it on without un-doing any of the brake lines. You'll definitely want to keep the ABS block functional on the truck.

[Stephen717]

Ok so, as long as I've been dealing with the truck I never paid attention to the dei remote start system, I'll have to look into that. For now the Throttle body spacer is staying as even though it might not do anything for the truck it's also not hurting the truck, I ended up getting an abs pump and module from pick n pull as I just generally didn't trust the old one, when I unscrewed the lines I had nothing going to the back one where when I took this one out of the donor truck there was fluid coming from all 5 lines. I've not dealt with the door or ignition locks yet to have them all on the same key and I've also not hooked the passlock system back up yet but I'm planning to because having replaced the fuel filter it runs good so I don't think passlock was my problem. Other than that I know it needs tires, a washer fluid reservoir tank, and some rust repair. Most likely I'll have a shop check the dei remote start system as looking under the dash on the driver's side there is a small fuse block with what I think are two 30 amp fuses taped in place, it also has an aftermarket antenna near the mirror and idk if that is for the remote start or something else I don't know about in the truck.

[biketopia]

Double check all your other brake lines while you have the ABS block off. These trucks are known for rusted brake and fuel lines. AC delco sells line kits for cheap that are pre bent, or get a roll of ni-cop line and make your own. You'll want a scan tool to run the abs pump when bleeding the brakes.

[hatzie]

It's worth pulling the reserviour out and filling with water where you can observe. Won't hurt anything to drive around without the tank in place while you wait on parts.

The HDPE washer reserviour was not where my washer was leaking but I have seen them cracked and leaking so I bought a Dorman tank. It fits well enough. Used works as well as new as long as the used tank isn't leaking.

My low washer fluid sensor and pump were both cracked and leaking. The pumps are common enough that NAPA had Trico pump in stock. The level sensor was an online acquisition.

The other place these leak is the washer fluid hose.

Trico makes decent quality pumps that come with a brandy new tank gasket.
You can machine a chunk of HDPE or Delrin or some other plastic to plug up the port where a cracked low fluid sensor goes or replace it with a new AC Delco sensor.

I would wipe a film of Sil-Glyde or some other di-electric grease on the electrical plugs and plug gaskets with an acid brush to keep the salt water and brine out of the connectors.

[LT7A]

Thanks for the pics. Looks like a good truck that could just use a little attention. Is the passenger inner fender cut out?

[Stephen717]

Both the inner fenders are in the bed where the previous owner took them out to replace the brake lines on the truck, I figured I would put them back in after I made sure everything worked and fixed whatever didn't. It's definitely the washer reservoir that's leaking so I'm going to replace that and then put the inner fenders back in, after that I'm just waiting on the title to come in the mail so I can get a tag and take it for new tires. After that I'm going to work on the rust above the rear tires and in the rockers. I still have to figure out the dei auto start thing too

[Stephen717]

Update, the truck runs, it's legal, I've been driving it to work, it needs tires, a clock spring for the steering wheel, and the plastic trim that covers the column. I also got a new high note horn for it since the old one didn't work anymore. The washer reservoir is replaced with a newer one someone replaced before their truck got wrecked (same one I got the horns off of), and I found a passenger door tweeter. I've ordered the ignition and door lock cylinders with matching keys so I can lock the truck, also ordered a new driver's door handle. The problems I'm currently running in to are that the passenger door won't unlock with the power locks, you have to push it back to the lock position and manually unlock it to open the passenger door, it also keeps promoting me to service the 4wd and I'm not sure how to do that since it's push button and all the units I ever dealt with had the shift selector on the floor, and the trans lever will shift through all the gears fine but when I put it in park and turn the truck off I can freely shift the transmission where any other vehicle I get into the trans shifter stays locked in park until the vehicle is running. The only other thing I noticed is sometimes when the parking brake is engaged the truck won't start and idk if that's a factory feature or some other problem I have to figure out. If anyone has any insight on these trucks please let me know.

Thanks,
Stephen