Bullet style starter

[srfinatsunset]

I have a 1968 K10 Suburban. Manual transmission. The starter is bullet style start. It’s a 3 bolt starter. Maybe 55-62 block not real sure. It’s bolts horizontal to the block, Not vertical like the normal small Block would.

I’m looking for an updated style or mini high torque starter that will fit the block.

[RustyPile]

Look closer.. The starter isn't bolted to the block.. It's bolted to the bellhousing.. In the very beginning, Chevrolet designed the starter to mount to the bellhousing.. In 1955, when the first V8 was introduced, this mounting technique was continued for several more years. Judging from the picture, the starter you have is the early design high torque model.. Identified by its overall length.. The field windings are larger and require a longer starter main housing, identified by the copper extension between the solenoid and the winding terminal. I have this same starter on my 454 and it easily cranks the engine.

If the block is drilled for it, you can upgrade to a more modern starter but you may need to grind the bellhousing in that area to gain clearance.

[RustyPile]

I did a little more foot work for you.. According to the Lime Book, engine block is either a 75 - 77 350 or 79 305. Built in Flint, MI on July 1st. Check the casting numbers on the block for clarification and year it was cast.. The smaller stamped numbers to the left is the partial VIN.. If this number matches the VIN on the B pillar, this engine is original to the truck, which I doubt is the case..

According to the stampings, it being a '55 - '62 block does not compute here.

[srfinatsunset]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I did a little more foot work for you.. According to the Lime Book, engine block is either a 75 - 77 350 or 79 305. Built in Flint, MI on July 1st. Check the casting numbers on the block for clarification and year it was cast.. The smaller stamped numbers to the left is the partial VIN.. If this number matches the VIN on the B pillar, this engine is original to the truck, which I doubt is the case..

According to the stampings, it being a '55 - '62 block does not compute here.

Rusty pile. Yes I see that now. The Bell Housing, I spaced it on that. Everything I’ve work on in the passed, Ford n Chevy modern stuff started bolt to the block. This motor is all over the place.

As for the motor. Nothing matches. The intake, carb, heads and the gloves box sticker.

The posts are loose on the starter that why I’m asking about a new modern style starter.

[RustyPile]

IMHO, that's not a good reason to replace the starter with either a "modern design" or exact replacement.. Those loose terminals and posts can be easily tightened.. So easy you may be able to tighten them with the starter in place.. You can tighten those posts or you can lay on your back grinding away at the bellhousing trying to make a different starter bolt up.. But it's your truck and your money, you call the shots....

In reference to the "hodge podge" of parts that make up your engine.. Throughout the SBC's lifetime (1955 to around 1999), parts have been interchangeable -- heads, intake and exhaust manifolds, valves and springs, blocks, water pumps, fuel pumps, etc... That's the good part about owning and working on an SBC -- parts are available EVERYWHERE..

If you're really concerned about the actual "genealogy" of the block, on the bellhousing flange at the back of the block is where all this information is located.. The date code indicating the year the block was cast is a raised circle much like a sundial. An arrow in the center points to the year. If the engine is in the truck, you'll have a difficult task seeing these numbers. Distributor, valve covers, brake booster, throttle linkage, and firewall are just some of the obstacles blocking your view.

[EDIT]

Upon closer examination of your starter picture.. Referencing the battery cable post. The nut that holds the post is missing. Look at how the other large post hardware is arranged.. Replace that nut, install a lock washer, next is the battery cable, and last to go on is another nut. With the lock washer installed under the cable, the cable won't try to rotate on the post as you tighten the top nut.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

IMHO, that's not a good reason to replace the starter with either a "modern design" or exact replacement.. Those loose terminals and posts can be easily tightened.. So easy you may be able to tighten them with the starter in place.. You can tighten those posts or you can lay on your back grinding away at the bellhousing trying to make a different starter bolt up.. But it's your truck and your money, you call the shots....

In reference to the "hodge podge" of parts that make up your engine.. Throughout the SBC's lifetime (1955 to around 1999), parts have been interchangeable -- heads, intake and exhaust manifolds, valves and springs, blocks, water pumps, fuel pumps, etc... That's the good part about owning and working on an SBC -- parts are available EVERYWHERE..

If you're really concerned about the actual "genealogy" of the block, on the bellhousing flange at the back of the block is where all this information is located.. The date code indicating the year the block was cast is a raised circle much like a sundial. An arrow in the center points to the year. If the engine is in the truck, you'll have a difficult task seeing these numbers. Distributor, valve covers, brake booster, throttle linkage, and firewall are just some of the obstacles blocking your view.

[EDIT]

Upon closer examination of your starter picture.. Referencing the battery cable post. The nut that holds the post is missing. Look at how the other large post hardware is arranged.. Replace that nut, install a lock washer, next is the battery cable, and last to go on is another nut. With the lock washer installed under the cable, the cable won't try to rotate on the post as you tighten the top nut.

Nice catch on the missing nut RP!!!

[srfinatsunset]

So I’m chasing an electrical issue and I believe the purple wire isl with ignition and the starter hence why I’m going to / want to replace the starter. Why would The key terminal ignition switch melt like that. Loose starter cable on the starter. No fuses were pop or broken.

[RustyPile]

Every electron that's moving with the ignition switch activated -- The power for every item that functions only when the ignition switch is on passes through the ignition switch.. Ignition system, turn signals, radio, heater/AC system, etc. are only some of those items.. That's a lot of current.. Over time, wear takes place, connections become loose, corrosion builds up.. All are contributors to the cause of resistance.. A byproduct of this resistance is heat.. The melted plug at the ignition switch is evidence of that heat.. It melted not because of a single component failure but the failure of several items.. It's a good bet the starter is a victim, not the cause, of this damage.

You keep insisting on replacing the starter.. Randomly throwing parts at a problem is the least effective and most expensive approach to a solution. Use good diagnostic procedures in solving the various issues.. You've got lots of wiring problems to diagnose and repair long before you can determine if the present starter, or a new one, functions properly.

That plug along with pigtail wires is available.. The red wire is part of the main power distribution wiring. It originates at the battery and has voltage on it all the time (hot). The pink wire feeds power from the switch to the fuse box. It's hot only when the ignition switch is on. The purple wire carries power to the starter solenoid only in the start position.. It doesn't go from the switch directly to the solenoid.. It goes first to either a neutral safety switch (for an automatic transmission) or a clutch safety switch (for a manual transmission), then to the solenoid. There are other wires in that plug.. The first step is making sure all fusible links are in good operating condition.. There are no fuses in the main power distribution system, only these fusible links. Refer to a proper wiring diagram when doing any electrical repairs.

[1970cstblazer]

Not aware of a clutch safety switch on any '67-'72 Chevy truck.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

Not aware of a clutch safety switch on any '67-'72 Chevy truck.

I realize that.. My explanation is of a general nature.. My last sentence in that post pretty much sums it up.. Diagrams answer questions of this nature. Questions like "While tracing a wire, I found it plugged into this part. What does this part do??" Parts names, color of insulation, pinout on plugs, even the gauge of the wires are all included in a diagram.

[HO455]

Failures like you have experienced are a result of overcurrent. You are not likely to find one smoking gun for your problem. Every poor connection in the circuit is causing a voltage drop which increases the load on the system.

You need to inspect and clean every connection point in the circuit starting at the firewall connector where the power lead comes into cab. It is also likely your ignition switch has burnt contacts that are àdding to the problem. I've had bad switches on new harnesses cause the same failure.

Here is a thread on the subject and in it is a link to the problem I had.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=818861