Exhaust coating from Eastwood

[MS66]

Big topic for anybody that's ever built anything with an exhaust system. Been through it all from highest cost professionally coated headers, to BBQ spray paint. I like Rustoleum BBQ spray paint on certain engines. It's cheap easy and can touch it up any time. I've just about given up on anything used on headers.
That said, I saw this pop up again today. I've seen it before but never gave it a second thought. Has anyone ever used this from Eastwood with any success? Headers or cast manifolds? Over $22 oz. !! Asking for a friend. No, really. I'm not going to be the guinea pig anymore.

[Steeveedee]

Reduces radiant heat OVER 90%!? That's hard to believe.

[MS66]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Reduces radiant heat OVER 90%!? That's hard to believe.

Hahahaha!~ Right?
Most everything on the label is hard to believe.
I even listened to the video they have in there.....

[Ol Blue K20]

Increases horsepower??!! How?

[Steeveedee]

^ With a reduction in heat loss, velocity is not as reduced, and extraction works better. I'm still shaking my head over that heat retention claim, though.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Increases horsepower??!! How?

Same way those finned aluminum valve covers do!

[72SB]

For headers, I only have used Jet Hot ceramic coatings

For stock manifolds, I used Cast Blast. Its a spray can deal and then you bake it

worked well for me on a 327

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by MS66

Big topic for anybody that's ever built anything with an exhaust system. Been through it all from highest cost professionally coated headers, to BBQ spray paint. I like Rustoleum BBQ spray paint on certain engines. It's cheap easy and can touch it up any time. I've just about given up on anything used on headers.
That said, I saw this pop up again today. I've seen it before but never gave it a second thought. Has anyone ever used this from Eastwood with any success? Headers or cast manifolds? Over $22 oz. !! Asking for a friend. No, really. I'm not going to be the guinea pig anymore.

It's made with PFM so everything on the label is true.

[MS66]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

It's made with PFM so everything on the label is true.

@ $1900 per gl I'm a believer!!

[MS66]

[weq92f]

.

There is a large amount of marketing content for this stuff out there and not very much real world usage data. Automotive forum searches turned up a lot of inquiries and folks saying they would test it but not much followup with results. Here's what I found:


Here's a short discussion some members here have had:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=822179


This appears to show data backing up some of the claims:

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...haust-coating/


Product reviews from Summit Racing (5 reviews, one is interesting):

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zyc-10008/reviews

Hth,

-Kevin

['68OrangeSunshine]

Around 2007 I tried some Ceramic Coating from Eastwood, you airbrushed on, then baked for 2 hours at 500*. I coated some Hedman Hedders -- inside and out -- then mummywrapped the hedders.
Lasted 7 years before they rusted out. In Arizona.
No thanks.

[MS66]

Originally Posted by weq92f

.

There is a large amount of marketing content for this stuff out there and not very much real world usage data. Automotive forum searches turned up a lot of inquiries and folks saying they would test it but not much followup with results. Here's what I found:


Here's a short discussion some members here have had:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=822179


This appears to show data backing up some of the claims:

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...haust-coating/


Product reviews from Summit Racing (5 reviews, one is interesting):

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zyc-10008/reviews

Hth,

-Kevin

Kevin, thanks for the post and links. Best one yet. I agree, lots of hype with no real meat to go with the claims. Even the so called tests done at Karl's Kustoms is just a JPG graph with no documented proof to back up the claims in the graph.
I doesn't appear that custom10nut ever posted back on coating anything.

The reviews on Summit are most likely the best evidence so far.
This is a response from "Zycoat Technical services" to a guy named Andy that gives it 1 star rating, says to save your money. lol

"Andy / can you provide any additional detail on how you measured surface temperature before the ZyBar coating and after it was coated? What device was used? What time span were measurements taken? Any additional input you can provide would be beneficial to respond to your statements.
I can tell you we have data from NHRA Top Fuel, Sprint Car circle track, Diesel Drag and Drag & Drive that prove -
Significant radiant heat reduction, reduced back pressure, reduced spool time and underhood temperature reduction. Please share data that you have and we can assess your situation. Thank you, ZyCoat Technical Services"

Where is the data that he/they speak of, and where is their video footage detailing the test procedure? He mentions time span. At what point in time does it actually do what it claims to do? At 10.000 rpm going 290 for 3 milliseconds???


'68Orange, not sure what you used back then. Lots of horror stories about wrapped headers rusting out quite often. Just not a fan of the wrap, even though it does keep under hood temps down. I like what headers do for performance, don't miss all the heat, going to stick to factory manifolds on my daily.

FWIW, this is one of those "asking for a friend" questions for real. I actually posted this thread to get feedback for a good friend of mine that is going through this very thing on his '67 C10 as we speak. High horse SBC with coated Hedman shorty Hedders. Under hood temps off the chart. He wraps them, swears by it. This is his second pair, first pair lasted about the same time as what you speak of, about 7 years. I'm trying to help him out with something besides header wrap. I'm a firm believer in heat shields because they work. Look horrendous, but they work. Hot rodding is sometimes a compromise in form over function. Because who wants to open the hood to see a piece of nice brushed SS sheet metal covering up those rusty headers!! wait.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Around 2007 I tried some Ceramic Coating from Eastwood, you airbrushed on, then baked for 2 hours at 500*. I coated some Hedman Hedders -- inside and out -- then mummywrapped the hedders.
Lasted 7 years before they rusted out. In Arizona.
No thanks.

Header wrap will do that no matter where you live . I’ve seen motorcycles that were never used in wet weather the exhaust rotted out in a few years .

I’ve used VHT ceramic coat on manifolds holds up fairly well . But you do have to bake them don’t think it does anything for heat .

[Stanco]

I used this on my 1967 Camaro over 30 years ago. I sandblasted the manifolds first then applied it with a brush. It has held up exceptionally well.

Not sure if it's the same product as in the original post.

[1970cstblazer]

I too have used the Eastwood product, and it's always exceeded my expectations.

Stanco-

Your French locks on your outer manifold bolts are not bent over to prevent the bolt from backing out.

Even the factory missed this at times. The lone surviving French lock on my un-rebuilt 1970 350 did not have any of the tabs bent over, and yes, those bolts were just barely hand tight.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by MS66

'68Orange, not sure what you used back then. Lots of horror stories about wrapped headers rusting out quite often. Just not a fan of the wrap, even though it does keep under hood temps down. I like what headers do for performance, don't miss all the heat, going to stick to factory manifolds on my daily.
.

The ceramic coating stuff I got from Eastwood, they don't sell anymore. I don't get their current catalogs, and I did not save the original catalog.
Stuff was Black. Only color available then. Reasonably priced, but I had to buy a second halfpint can. I shot my Heddmans inside and out. I thought with that and my arid Arizona climate, they'd last forever. I had never tried mummy wrap before, and didn't read the fine print on my Heddman warranty.
Hedders were sandblasted, then shot with brake cleaner, dried and shot with the black goop. After they were only a bit tacky, I put them both in Mom's old Hotpoint range and baked at 500*F for at least 2 hours. Paint from the upper dripped onto the lower bank. I figured that was just a cosmetic blem. [I don't think that's where the rot started. ]
After putting the DEI wrap on, I did not coat the wrap with anything.

I put a Mr. Goodwrench crate 350 in my '71 GMC Jimmy in 1999. The OEM ramshorn manifolds that were on the PO's SBC were mismatched. One had 4 ports -- capped off -- for A.I.R. and the other was pre-emissions. I elected for the Heddmans, as repop ramshorns were rediculously priced.
Hedders were 7 - 8 years old when I coated and wrapped them. Then they lasted 7 years more.
I am no longer a fan of Mummy Wrap.

[Already Gone]

I had the Rams Head Manifolds for my new engine done by Top Gun Coatings in Calgary and they guaranteed them for life. I've only put on 13/1400 miles on the engine so far but are holding up well. They also did my Edelbrock 2101 and guaranteed it as well. https://www.topguncoatings.com

[LNP]

I never heard of it before here today. I spray professionally powder and ceramic coatings. I use ceramic coating made for exhaust and have never had a failure. Hope I didnt just jinks myself. lol That stuff is kinda high in price as well with the claims. It runs $79.99 for a 1/4 of a pint (4oz). I buy ceramic coatings made for exhaust for $70.00 a pint (16oz). As for the heat reduction I am not sure with this chemical but the ceramics I use do reduce heat. Thats why bikers love it on their exhaust.