1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Justin71105]

So the only places on my truck that still have original paint are hood, cab and tailgate.

New doors/fenders and took bedsides to bare metal for metal repairs.

I sanded down to original best I could and hit bare metal in some spots.

I found some blueish colors in a few spots on each panel between cream and brown primer.

So I found something close and am going to fill in the bare metal. Did some of the tailgate today and it it looks cool to me.

Going to tryout some Griots Garage wipe on clear on it as well later this summer.

This is under stock paint in a few spots.

https://imgur.com/fSgjd01

And this is what I did to tailgate.

https://imgur.com/a/rwWJNVA

[Justin71105]

On the ledge about doing a cam in my truck now that Ive got some miles on it.

Was recommended a btr stage 2 truck cam. Then would aldo do springs, push rods and some other items while doing it. Like timing chain, front main seal, oil pump etc...

Wanting a little lope and some added hp/trq.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

On the ledge about doing a cam in my truck now that Ive got some miles on it.

Was recommended a btr stage 2 truck cam. Then would aldo do springs, push rods and some other items while doing it. Like timing chain, front main seal, oil pump etc...

Wanting a little lope and some added hp/trq.

I believe that's what my buddy went w/for the 5.3 in my old '90rcsb OBS. He hasn't gotten it running yet but it seemed like a good choice.

[Justin71105]

3 hour round trip yesterday, stopped for lunch and got a pic. Never missed a beat. Need to get this cruise control installed though.

Removed my column spacers today and moved column back to stock position. I did have it push into dash about 2" for some extra room. But lost about 50lbs since then and didnt need that anymore.

When I first installed column though I cut the colapsible shaft down. With moving the column back out im about 2" short from reaching u joint.

So I ordered another one, wont trim it this time. Luckily they arent super expensive, sure one of my buddies can use the one I am pulling off.

https://imgur.com/a/0A2ztyY

[Justin71105]

Was checking pistoms through spark plug holes with a borescope camera. Wanted to make sure the pistons and cyl walls look good before setting up cam job.

I'll be danged if 2 spark plug ends pulled off on me. Got a new set on the way. Gave up checking pistons until this weekend. Cyl 1,2,3 all look good, tiny bit of oil on cyl 1 piston. All of those were near tdc so didnt get to see cyl walls.

Will bar it over this weekend to check them all.

Not expecting to find anything bad but want to be sure. May also do a compression check on them all.

It doesnt smoke or miss or anything but better safe than sorry before spending the cash on the work.

[Justin71105]

Priced out everything I can think of for the cam swap, came about to just over $1500 not including fluids. Priced it all out using mostly btr parts.

Cam kit with springs, seals and pushrods
Lifters, trays, bolts - (Delphi or Morel)
High volume oil pump - (Chevy performance)
Rocker trunnion kit with bolts
Timing chain set
Front main seal
Cam retainer plate
Trunnion upgrade kit
Head bolts - (Earls)
Gasket kits

Waiting to hear back a parts/labor cost to see if I am going to order and do it myself this winter or drop it off as soon as they have an opening.

[Justin71105]

Got new plug wires on and I'm betting the first set had an issue from new.

Have had a ticking for awhile I chalked up to the headers and exhaust installed.

New wires and the tick is gone, guessing theybwere arcing on headers.

New steering shaft put in as well. Going to adjust brake pedal and brake switch this weekend. As well as the rear shoes and get e brake holding better. Since I remived the spacers from the column bracket its not moving shoes out enough now.

Got rough estimate for the cam work. Parts are around 2k for everything and then another 1500 for labor/tune.


Couple of pictures frim earlier this month.

https://imgur.com/a/92AADR3

[Justin71105]

Doing a little maintenance this weekend to make the brake pedal more adjustable.

Remived booster and master, threaded the rod coming out of booster.

I have some female threaded nuts about 3" long that connects booster to the rod that goes on pedal arm.

Added a longer section of threaded rod to pedal arm side.

Hitting up parts store for the 1" plastic bushing that goes up under dash for the pedal mount and a 0.5" one for the pin that comes out of brake arm.

I wish the 88-98 boosters came with threaded rods already instead of with the loop on the end though.

While thats all out I need to bend a new rear hard line from brake t fitting to drivers side. Wasn't able to route exhaust over axle here because of how I routed it originally.

Hoping after new bushings are all done the pedal will sit in a better position and have less slop side/side.

[Justin71105]

That booster rod is a bear to thread but I got it done. Added a brass bushing to the nib that comes off pedal arm instead of the plastic one. Tried all the parts stores and the one listed to fit didn't. So I got a bushing from tractor supply and drilled out the loop to 5/8 to fit, bushing already fit the nib on pedal really well.

When the bushings come in for pedal arm I'll weld the steel foot pad on and new rubber on it. Hopefully I'll be able to move rear line this week and nleed brakes.

Then I can go in to have exhaust routed out the back behind passenger tire.

I got the booster bolted back in the truck today, so thats out of the way atleast.
https://imgur.com/a/HGb86UP

[Justin71105]

Well after threading booster rod its got a bad vacuum leak on rod side.....

So going to pick up a new one, weld a rod on pedal, press the stud into this and not have to cut/weld/thread booster rod at all. Hopefully this idea will work well.
.........


Got it done and it works pretty well, If I ever need a new booster it will go right in with no work or adjustments. Bar is 5.25" from end to end, need to adjust brake sensor a little bit now.

Ran out of gas at the very end so welds werent looking to hot on one side. Going to wait until I get some gas monday and grind it down almost all the way and hit another pass on it all around. Thought I was low on gas but it was all the way out on the last few passes. Especially where I added another 1/4" piece to move pedal to a better position. So all thats got to be welded again, no big deal not driving it this weekend anyway.

https://imgur.com/a/3QAQHQW

[Justin71105]

Brake pedal got finished last weekend, it works very well. Pushes in great and firms up quickly.

Decided to try out some Flood Penetrol on the paint after seeing pictures. Stuff is pretty good over my paint, actually hardened like a clear coat will just not as hard.

Will get my by until this fall or next spring when I will decide to actually clear it or keep wiping it down.

Holding off on cam until later this year, I enjoy driving it too much right now.


https://imgur.com/a/XFBCKg7

[SCOTI]

I've never heard of 'Flood Penetrol'.

[Justin71105]

I was searching a wipe on clear coat so i didnt have to make a paint booth in my garage.

Found several google hits with this stuff and found a good many pictures.

I had been using boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits but it seemed like it just stayed tacky no matter how long it sat.

Seen this and tried it out, it dried to a smooth hard finish. Which is really what I wanted so when I wash it stuff isnt just embedded in the matte paint.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

I was searching a wipe on clear coat so i didnt have to make a paint booth in my garage.

Found several google hits with this stuff and found a good many pictures.

I had been using boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits but it seemed like it just stayed tacky no matter how long it sat.

Seen this and tried it out, it dried to a smooth hard finish. Which is really what I wanted so when I wash it stuff isnt just embedded in the matte paint.

Nice.
I don't care for the linseed-oil/mineral spirits application approach, so I'll look it up as it sounds appealing.

[Justin71105]

Took these yesterday after I put on a second coat. Was dry to the touch this morning but had not fully hardened yet. My finger nail would still make an indentation. Will pull it out this weekend and get it under the sun. It is worlds above the linseed oil I was using. I like how it is drying to a hard finish. Even seen some posts where the guys were buffing it out for even more shine.

https://imgur.com/a/6MMzajr

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Took these yesterday after I put on a second coat. Was dry to the touch this morning but had not fully hardened yet. My finger nail would still make an indentation. Will pull it out this weekend and get it under the sun. It is worlds above the linseed oil I was using. I like how it is drying to a hard finish. Even seen some posts where the guys were buffing it out for even more shine.

https://imgur.com/a/6MMzajr

You can def tell it's there from that hood shot angle.

[Justin71105]

I like how it hardens up to a shell, easier to wash now. That matte paint would absorb everything....grease, mud, dirt, etc...

This feels like that stuff will just wipe off like on a normal clear coated vehicle. Read up on it and it looks like it can be cut and buffed for a deeper shine.

Only thing I did was wash the truck with purple power and a green scotch bright pad then dawn dish soap before putting it on. So still have many of the chips, uneven paint under it.

But you can't feel any of them, to the touch it feels like a clear coat. Comes off with mineral spirits I think so have to be mindful when fueling it up. But for $12 it will get me through until after winter.

Had the serp belt jump off last weekend under a hard pull and a/c on. Installed a new gates tensioner and a 1/2" smaller belt this morning. Under hard accel no a/c the belt squealed pretty bad. Then kept on squealing under light accel. Swapped back to the belt recommended and it went away. Will keep smaller one for emergency change. Hoping the tensioner was the issue, less than 1k miles on tensioner from vintage air but it had a lot of play in it for some reason.

The gates ones has no play and does not move near as much when reved. Will see how it does with ac on and a hard pull. If nothing else will just have to stop doing hard pulls with the ac running. Havent had any issues while the ac is off and running it hard.

[Justin71105]

Cant get over how good of a shine this stuff made. And thats its smooth.


https://imgur.com/a/i46OpJn


After many many adjustments I finally got the compressor to sit in a position while tightening head bolts so the belt stays put. Ac on/off and while reving it no longer junps over a tooth on compressor pulley. Will keep off the thottle when ac is on though just to be on safe side.

Anymore issues out of this setup and im going to splurge on the Holley kit thats solid pieces without the tube spacers. Or even better may notch the frame and go to factory mount/compressor etc...

Then atleast it will work just like stock, seperate belt and all. Should really have no issues with that. Would cost avout the same as the holley setup with everything I would need. Belts, tensioner, compressor, could probably use current a/c lines. Have enough extra hpse to make 2 new ones if not.

[Justin71105]

Got the speakers moved from the floor to b-pillars today.

Mounted passenger side first and got it a little high, driver side came out well.

Can hear them just as well as being on the floor too, which is a plus.


https://imgur.com/a/KGG6Y4H

[Justin71105]

Tired of this Kwik Performance ac bracket. Want to run the ac but belt is walking up on the back of pulley still even just slight acceleration. Pops off completely at about 4k rpm and above.

Have shimmed, adjusted and did everything kwik recommended. New shorter belt, swapped to gates tensioner etc... Should have just went with the Holley to start, got almost as much in this one by now.

Broke down and ordered the Holley high mount setup today. Have read about this setup for awhile and seems to work well and havent seen but one or two people having issues. And those were on the original kits back in 2012-14 it looks like.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Tired of this Kwik Performance ac bracket. Want to run the ac but belt is walking up on the back of pulley still even just slight acceleration. Pops off completely at about 4k rpm and above.

Have shimmed, adjusted and did everything kwik recommended. New shorter belt, swapped to gates tensioner etc... Should have just went with the Holley to start, got almost as much in this one by now.

Broke down and ordered the Holley high mount setup today. Have read about this setup for awhile and seems to work well and havent seen but one or two people having issues. And those were on the original kits back in 2012-14 it looks like.

Weird that the KWIK Perf set-up isn't working. I'll dbl check w/my buddy but I think that's what he's got as well so I'll let him know of your issues.

[Justin71105]

The 112.5" belt that was tighter pops off at idle with ac. And squeals like crazy going down road.

The 112.875" belt is fine with ac off, but when I turn it on it pops over back of compressor pulley.

Called and talked with a tech, who recommended a brand name twnsioner instead of one in VA kit. SoI now have a brand new gates tensioner and belt. Adjusted conpressor going by the video they have and tried some 0.5mm shimsjust behind the bracket compressor mounts on. The 0.5mm is not enough and 1mm is too much.

Figured I would try the Holley since I cant find many people having issues at all really. Looked through forums and have read reviews online from everyone who sales them.

Will find out early next week how well it works, hopefully so. Been fighting with this for about 3 weekends consistently. Didnt notice it until a few weeks ago, havent really needed to run a/c until this month.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

The 112.5" belt that was tighter pops off at idle with ac. And squeals like crazy going down road.

The 112.875" belt is fine with ac off, but when I turn it on it pops over back of compressor pulley.

Called and talked with a tech, who recommended a brand name twnsioner instead of one in VA kit. SoI now have a brand new gates tensioner and belt. Adjusted conpressor going by the video they have and tried some 0.5mm shimsjust behind the bracket compressor mounts on. The 0.5mm is not enough and 1mm is too much.

Figured I would try the Holley since I cant find many people having issues at all really. Looked through forums and have read reviews online from everyone who sales them.

Will find out early next week how well it works, hopefully so. Been fighting with this for about 3 weekends consistently. Didnt notice it until a few weeks ago, havent really needed to run a/c until this month.

Def sounds irritating.

[Justin71105]

That Holley setup seems to have done the trick.

Got a belt on kt that fits but is a little too large though. Tensioner is on the replace mark. Tried a k061130 and it was too small, would need to pry it over tensioner.

Running the k061140 bit its a tad too large and nothing I can find vetween the two. May try to force the smaller belt on just to see how it acts.



Kwik vs Holley

https://imgur.com/a/D2rLIp3

[Justin71105]

I've been having that front end pop for a few months now and today I finally found out what it was and fixed it.

When installing the coils springs I was placing the springs in the lower control arm and using that groove in the lower to align them. Problem is the top does not fit in the D shape properly when this is done, found online that someone recommended starting on the upper since it is a fixed position as well and it doesn't move like the lower control arm when you are installing.

I found the third ring down on the coil spring was rubbing the engine cross member where it goes up in there. The spring would also rotate slightly from the upper portion not being locked into the D shape. I think it would rotate and give a slight gap and I wouldn't hear the popping for a little while and then spin back and start it up again.

Simply dropped lower control arm and aligned the upper first then brought the control arm up to the lower side of spring.

Did this to both sides and now have a 1" gap or more all the way around the engine member.

Took it down the road and no more popping, the spring had been rubbed pretty good on the drivers side and that's were I was hearing the noise most consistently.

Also figured out the belt needed for the Holley kit with a little work around. I dropped my idler pulley size under the alternator from a 90mm to a 76mm and the 113" belt fit. Seemed pretty tight to me but the tensioner now lines up with the marks it needs to almost perfectly.