65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[Vic1947]

Finally got off my butt and now l have a big ole hole to fill.

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[Vic1947]

Driver side minitub is coming along. Decided to fabricate the rear piece of the wheelwell after wasting a day trying to beat the stock piece into submission.

Found out my new belt sander has a whole lot more power than my old one. Got careless and it grabbed the piece I was cleaning up and wrapped it around the lower roller. Had to partially disassemble the stop to get the piece out.

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[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Driver side minitub is coming along. Decided to fabricate the rear piece of the wheelwell after wasting a day trying to beat the stock piece into submission.

Found out my new belt sander has a whole lot more power than my old one. Got careless and it grabbed the piece I was cleaning up and wrapped it around the lower roller. Had to partially disassemble the stop to get the piece out.

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Beautiful work as usual Vic!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Beautiful work as usual Vic!

Thanks, Dale!

[Vic1947]

Despite a one-week side trip to NC to get the Powermaster unit for our GN rebuilt, there's actually been some progress on the Fairlane. The driver side minitub is pretty much complete, the new trunk drops are done, and the trunk floor is taking shape.

Before the trunk floor can be finalized, I had to mount the '87 Blazer EFI tank. I wanted a mount that was removeable - just in case, but the way it had to fit in there meant no conventional straps. The rear of the tank was already sitting on a 1" ledge so I fab'd up a cross bar for the front. It has tabs that bolt into captive nuts on the subframe rails which will make it easy to drop out in the event I need to do so. To hold the tank in place, I machined four keepers that positively locate and clamp the tank pinchweld seam.

When I get the remaining trunk floor panel measured, bent and in place, I'll cut an access panel into it so I can easily remove the pump. Those of you that kept up with my last truck build may remember I failed to do that and was rewarded with a trip home on a U-Haul trailer. Never again.

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[Vic1947]

Trunk floor continued. I'm not sure this is going to work out the way I have in mind. Need to think about it while doing some 12oz elbow curls.

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[Vic1947]

Decided the panel covering the gas tank would look a little better if all the sides sloped downward so I used CAD (cardboard aided design) to assist with the fitment.

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[jaros44sr]

Nice work Vic, coming along nicely

I may be getting closer to my panel bond step

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Nice work Vic, coming along nicely

I may be getting closer to my panel bond step

Thanks, Jim, keep me posted on the panel bond project. Always interested to know how it all goes down.

The fuel tank cover is taking shape. I have the fuel filler and access panel openings cut. I used a 2.5" hole saw to make the first cut and then a 3" hole template to fix the location more precisely. From there I took measurements for the access panel, drilled the corner holes and then used the metal death wheel to connect the dots. By the time I got to the last cut, the edge of the wheel was loading up with metal and I got a little heat on it, but not enough to mess anything up.

If you don't recall my strategy for the filler cap, I made a split ring surround on the lathe / mill that will slip under the filler cap assembly. I needed to do that so I can clamp the hose before putting the fuel tank in because I don't have enough room to do it after the fact. The filler assembly has just enough clearance to go thru the cover. Once in place, I'll put the split halves together to hold it all in place. I'll post photos of that step in a day or two.

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[mongocanfly]

Looking great Vic....as usual..!!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Looking great Vic....as usual..!!

Thanks, Greg, I always appreciate your input!

[Vic1947]

The fuel tank cover is complete except for gluing it in. I used a little homemade dimple die to recess the spots where the rivet nuts go. That lets the fuel filler assembly sit flat on the surface. On the access panel, I used cork gasket material to seal the edges instead. Works great and a lot less hassle.
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[Vic1947]

Metal / body work continues...

Dusted off the primer gun and squirted a couple of coats of epoxy on some of the parts. Had the red primer leftover from a previous project and wasn't really sure how well it stood up to the ravages of time, but it did great. The color wasn't my first choice, but all these parts get covered with carpet, undercoat or vinyl.

I welded / shaved all the bumper bracket bolts, so it's nice and smooth. My B-I-L Rick was here recently, and we tinkered with the MIG welder and figured out the pulsed feature. I need to exchange one of my C25 tanks for a C10 to really take advantage of it. Lot less spatter when properly tuned.

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[Vic1947]

Put new shoes on the Batmobile and went to the 51st annual Show and Shine in Bonner Springs, KS yesterday. They had a nice turnout and we picked up a Top 45 award. On the way home, the skies opened up and it rained buckets on us, so I had a bit of detailing to do but it was worth it. Back on the Fairlane today.

[Vic1947]

Began scuffing the street side of the rear wheel wells and then applied a couple of coats of 3M rubberized undercoat. I did some rudimentary body work over the pie cuts before priming with epoxy but was still pleased to see how much evil the undercoat hides.

[Vic1947]

I've started the trim panels for the trunk area. The first one didn't turn out the way I wanted, so there went several hours and a piece of material. The second one turned out much better (so far). I still have to position the Dzus fasteners and get them all to line up. Fortunately, I can still remove the quarter panel patches and access the trim panels from the backside which will help a lot.

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[Vic1947]

Work continues on the trim panels for the trunk. Was able to position the Dzus fasteners for the driver side panel without any issues. I boxed in the trunk support and cut a template for the LH rear panel. I'm leaving a 3/8" gap at the bottom of the panels to allow for sound deadener and carpet.

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[jaros44sr]

Vic thanks for the progress pics,enjoy reading. You do extremely nice work

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Vic thanks for the progress pics, enjoy reading. You do extremely nice work

Thanks, Jim. Have you experimented with the panel bonding adhesive yet? I know you mentioned you were getting some pieces ready to give it a try. I had a small amount left in one of the cartridges and squirted it out onto a piece of paper then mixed it manually. Used it to bond a stiffening rib to the inside of one of the quarter panels. It was "oil canning" a little bit before and now, it's solid as a rock. Good stuff.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Thanks, Jim. Have you experimented with the panel bonding adhesive yet? I know you mentioned you were getting some pieces ready to give it a try. I had a small amount left in one of the cartridges and squirted it out onto a piece of paper then mixed it manually. Used it to bond a stiffening rib to the inside of one of the quarter panels. It was "oil canning" a little bit before and now, it's solid as a rock. Good stuff.

17217418533293782434906795413393 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

I’m at the point where I’m wondering how strong the chemical smell is, my work shop is connected to my house, and any strong smells is objectionable to the Mrs.

I guess I’ll just have to waist an applicator tube to find out


Also wondering how viscous the panel bond is as the distance between my screws to secure my panel, right now they are 6” on center
Thanks for checking back

[jaros44sr]

1718629290434864840592741685482 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

This is my method for securing my panel, if I can’t get the screws out after panel bond sets up, I’ll just cut the head off. They will have a washer/ seal under the head of the screw to make it easier for a flush cut to the panel

8/32 hex head with J clips

[Vic1947]

The 3M adhesive I use is a bit more viscous than JB Weld. It stays put fairly well. My shop is in the basement of our house and the adhesive odor is not very strong. Bondo is way worse. I've been using stainless rivets to hold pieces I can't clamp. Then I use a spot weld cutter to remove the head. A thin layer of kitty hair helps prevent any witness marks from showing thru. By the time you apply a skim coat of plastic filler, high build 2K primer and a good sealer, you'll be ready for the topcoat.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

The 3M adhesive I use is a bit more viscous than JB Weld. It stays put fairly well. My shop is in the basement of our house and the adhesive odor is not very strong. Bondo is way worse. I've been using stainless rivets to hold pieces I can't clamp. Then I use a spot weld cutter to remove the head. A thin layer of kitty hair helps prevent any witness marks from showing thru. By the time you apply a skim coat of plastic filler, high build 2K primer and a good sealer, you'll be ready for the topcoat.

Thanks for your time and help. I feel much more confident after reading your comment. Rivets sound like a better way to go, far Less effort. But I’ve installed and removed panel for fitment many times and screws worked for me,Not saying you’re wrong,as I wouldn’t want to offend anyone taking the time to help me out

Actually I have a can of kitty hair on the shelf

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks for your time and help. I feel much more confident after reading your comment. Rivets sound like a better way to go, far Less effort. But I’ve installed and removed panel for fitment many times and screws worked for me. Not saying you’re wrong, as I wouldn’t want to offend anyone taking the time to help me out.

Actually, I have a can of kitty hair on the shelf

Always happy to offer ideas. (See signage below.) Screws work great too!

The "bathtub" for the trunk is pretty much complete. I'll peel the protective plastic skin off the panels before having them black anodized. The RH side will be home for the battery, kill switch, fuse box, some relays and assorted other electronics. Should be able to fit it all behind the panel.

[jaros44sr]

Your metal skills are impressive. Wish I had a bead roller, or you were my neighbor