1952 Pickup Street Rod project

[csmeutah]

Originally Posted by C4fivewindow

I'm not sure if I'm missing something but it might be a good idea to add a little more structure to help out the front on your frame since it takes the weight of the entire front clip. On mine I was able to just make a hole through the center of the framerail although I havent decided yet if the fit is too tight or not.

Good point, I may add a strip of steel below to help brace underneath. My plan is to build up the frame complete with driveline, get it aligned (a local shop specializes in custom rod builds) then strip it down, finish welding, paint, and reassemble.

[csmeutah]

I've spent several weeks cleaning up the front suspension components and replacing the bushings. No small feat on an independent suspension system.



Now on to the rear end

[8man]

Looks nice!

[csmeutah]

Been working on the rear end, lots of u-joints and brake parts to clean up not to mention the oil seals.

Oh and I've been building a pizza oven at the same time...

[joedoh]

if I tell you how clean this work is, will you invite me over for some pizza?

(its clean work even if you dont invite me for pizza)

[csmeutah]

Originally Posted by joedoh

if I tell you how clean this work is, will you invite me over for some pizza?

(its clean work even if you dont invite me for pizza)

The invite is the easy part, the drive from Kansas to Utah not so much.��

[csmeutah]

Finally got the rear end reassembled and finishing off the installation:



I will be switching over to the body work as I wait for a donor for the driveline.

[csmeutah]

Hi all, I know you have been worried sick waiting for my next post, well I can say that I have good news. I just brought home a 2000 convertible corvette that will be the donor for my driveline and other misc. parts. I'm also hoping to modify the convertible top frame for use on the truck, stay tuned:

[8man]

Interesting! I'm in for the build.

[oldman3]

Sounds like we may be in for another roadster pickup...Jim

[csmeutah]

So my cousin-in-law spent a long morning helping me drop the LS1, now I get to strip it down and get the Vette carcass out of the way so I can start placing the engine in the truck. I am poring over similar blogs for LS engine orientation but any suggestions would be appreciated.

[csmeutah]

We placed the engine with some aftermarket weld in engine mounts. I have the engine angled 4 degrees down in the back, it is aligned 3/4" above the clocked rack and pinion in the front. Any concerns before I weld this in place? I will now plan to place the transmission and then the cab to determine fitment of the sheet metal and the exhaust.

Any feed back would be appreciated.

[dsraven]

Maybe throw some manifolds, or headers or whatever you plan, on there just to ensure clearance.
On 1 build I did I reshaped the steel tube on the rack for a little more clearance.

[csmeutah]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Maybe throw some manifolds, or headers or whatever you plan, on there just to ensure clearance.
On 1 build I did I reshaped the steel tube on the rack for a little more clearance.

Thanks DSRAVEN, is 3/4" clearance enough? How about front to back clearance, that's about as forward as I can go...

[dsraven]

3/4 is probably enough on the rack. since you are running urethane mounts I would see what you have for clearance from the hot exhaust, maybe run a heat shield there and on the starter if it is close. there are some factory starter shields out there if you peruse the wrecking yards. one of those under floor exhaust shields from a car may also be reshaped if you need something for the mounts. maybe reshape the steel line on the rack and see where you're at there for clearance. on one of my builds I welded some flat bar to the frame and then bolted the engine mounts (frame side) onto those. then they could be unbolted easily for quick engine removal and also new holes could be drilled should there be a height adjustment needed or an engine swap to a different engine block style, etc. just a thought.
for engine height, I usually try to keep the oil pan above the frame in the same area. if going over one of those crazy high speed bumps or trying to miss that garbage in the middle of your lane the frame will hit rather than your oil pan. do you have room to go up more or you'd rather not? what about the driveline bellhousing, will it interfere with the floor if the engine raises?

[csmeutah]

Originally Posted by dsraven

3/4 is probably enough on the rack. since you are running urethane mounts I would see what you have for clearance from the hot exhaust, maybe run a heat shield there and on the starter if it is close. there are some factory starter shields out there if you peruse the wrecking yards. one of those under floor exhaust shields from a car may also be reshaped if you need something for the mounts. maybe reshape the steel line on the rack and see where you're at there for clearance. on one of my builds I welded some flat bar to the frame and then bolted the engine mounts (frame side) onto those. then they could be unbolted easily for quick engine removal and also new holes could be drilled should there be a height adjustment needed or an engine swap to a different engine block style, etc. just a thought.
for engine height, I usually try to keep the oil pan above the frame in the same area. if going over one of those crazy high speed bumps or trying to miss that garbage in the middle of your lane the frame will hit rather than your oil pan. do you have room to go up more or you'd rather not? what about the driveline bellhousing, will it interfere with the floor if the engine raises?

All good points, thanks. I added the starter so I can account for clearance as I add the tranny/cab/exhaust. The crossmember on the front suspension hangs down 3/4" below the oilpan so that should catch any road issues first. I'm trying to keep the engine as low as possible for added cab/tranny/clearance and weight center of gravity but at this point I think I will add the components as you mention before the final motor mount weld. Thanks again.

[csmeutah]

I found a Tranny that looks like it will work, the mount fits nicely on a piece of C-channel. I am working on the exhaust next before I finalized the Transmission mount.

Meanwhile I'm also finishing up the electric Vespa project I've been working on with my daughter:





As always, any suggestions are welcome as I finalize the driveline.

[e015475]

I'd think with a Corvette bat-wing oil pan you could drop the engine pretty low in the frame.

Have you put the accessory drive on the engine yet to check fit? With the engine low in the frame you might have problems with the Corvette's low mount alternator getting it between the frame rails. The narrowest LS accessory drive is from the trucks and you can still run the Corvette intake with a pulley relocation kit, but even with the truck accessories you can't mount a stock AC compressor down low and clear the frame rails.

I modified my firewall to allow my LS motor's valve covers to fit about an inch and a half in back of the sheet metal, but I was still surprised how little room I had for an intake tract between the TB and the fan shroud. If I ever do a LS in one of these trucks again, I'll make sure I can get the intake/MAF and filter to fit well before I weld in the motor mounts by mounting the radiator/shroud and support for mockup too

[csmeutah]

Originally Posted by e015475

I'd think with a Corvette bat-wing oil pan you could drop the engine pretty low in the frame.

Have you put the accessory drive on the engine yet to check fit? With the engine low in the frame you might have problems with the Corvette's low mount alternator getting it between the frame rails. The narrowest LS accessory drive is from the trucks and you can still run the Corvette intake with a pulley relocation kit, but even with the truck accessories you can't mount a stock AC compressor down low and clear the frame rails.

I modified my firewall to allow my LS motor's valve covers to fit about an inch and a half in back of the sheet metal, but I was still surprised how little room I had for an intake tract between the TB and the fan shroud. If I ever do a LS in one of these trucks again, I'll make sure I can get the intake/MAF and filter to fit well before I weld in the motor mounts by mounting the radiator/shroud and support for mockup too

All good points, I need to drop the cab on and look at the accessories thanks

[csmeutah]

So, I know I have been negligent in my progress but in the last two years I've had to remodel (new wiring/plumbing kitchen) two apartments, built an electric Vespa conversion, built a smoker and acquired a '50 Chevy COE which I'm switching to so I can haul this truck around. Would this forum be willing to let me post the COE build here?

[dsraven]

I think you just start a new thread with that title.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by csmeutah

So, I know I have been negligent in my progress but in the last two years I've had to remodel (new wiring/plumbing kitchen) two apartments, built an electric Vespa conversion, built a smoker and acquired a '50 Chevy COE which I'm switching to so I can haul this truck around. Would this forum be willing to let me post the COE build here?

Yes. Start a new build thread here, https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...play.php?f=205

[nvrdone]

There have been a number of COE's posted on here.