Alignment & Coil over adjustment

[lkt1954]

Getting close to the end of finishing the 70 C 10 and have a couple of questions:
Front end is new with tubular a arms and coil overs on the front and rear. No shims on the front end and aligned by sight. Before I measure and order new wheels I would like to get the front end aligned and the ride height set.
Is there any reason not to do either one of the to the truck?
The truck still need the hood, grille, seat, glass and bumpers.

Also I installed a 88-94 steering wheel and when tightened down, it still wobbly.
It's installed a a tilt column from flaming river. I simply installed the wheel and then tightened it down. Am I missing something here?

Thanks

[RustyPile]

Ride height is a big factor in the alignment. Camber changes as suspension moves up and down.. With that many "missing parts", the ride height will be higher than normal.

As for that wobbly steering wheel.. First thing that comes to mind is those aftermarket steering columns use GM components.. There is a spring under the T/S canceling cam that preloads the upper bearing.. If that spring is missing, the shaft will wobble... A question might be addressed to Flaming River: Is the 88 - 94 steering wheel compatible with that particular column??

[theastronaut]

Wait to align it until it's all assembled and full weight, ideally with half a tank of gas and your weight in the driver seat to settle the ride height as close as it'll be to when you're driving it.

If it has new springs that need to settle, set the toe to 1/16" in yourself and put some miles on it to settle the ride height/springs before having it professionally aligned. Caster or camber misalignment won't wear the tires.


Good specs to shoot for since it's no longer stock and on bias plies-


-.5 to -1 camber

1/16" toe in

More caster than stock, hopefully the tubular arms allow for around 7 degrees. Slight stagger in L/R caster to compensate for road crown.