1958 Pontiac Wagon Build

[Tempest67]

Hey Guys,

I installed another patch (under rear seat) and have the rear driver's side floor (footwell) piece to go. (last one)

But, on another topic, I had a friend of mine make me some custom wheel center inserts for my Pontiac Rally 2 wheels. Instead of the PMD, I am going to use these. I was able to hide the lines/grooves made by the 3D printer with many coats of clear.

[HO455]

Those are sweet!

[Tempest67]

I installed the last piece to the floor. (Rear Drivers)

I did not grind the welds smooth on the inside, as I want to keep the strength of the weld, and once the carpet is down, it will not be seen.

The underside of the welds need more smoothing, but that will be done when the body is lifted off the frame. (as I can't get at the welds) Also have some edges to weld in and smooth around the rockers/rear wheel wells, but that will be done when I remove the wheels/body.

Overall, I am pleased with the results.

[3drburb]

That is a lot of work and it looks great from here, good choice on leaving as much weld as possible on the floor.
The dash profile and gauges layout is really cool.
Thanks for showing as always and looking forward to see what's next.

[Tempest67]

Thanks 3drburb

It has come a long way, but still a long way to go.

[Tempest67]

Hi Guys

I have been busy with some home renos for our daughter but was able to work on the Gas Tank.

I thought it would have been as rusty inside as out, and was preparing to pay $500 for a new one, however, after removing a few rocks, and a vinegar/water sloshing, it looks really good inside.

Then I had to make a steel piece to weld to the new sending unit (came with new fuel gauge) to attach to the tank.

The tank now has about a pint of Transmission/Varsol solution that I slosh around occasionally (will be emptied at time of install) and is waiting.

1 more thing done (on a long list)

[7dee2]

Good job on the floor repairs and a nice save on the gas tank looks good!

[Tempest67]

Not a big job, but I found some old PMD wheel centers at a Swap Meet and installed my custom inserts.

So the wheels just need some trim rings, lug nuts, and tires.

[Tempest67]

Another little job, I am planning to use a 'Vintage Air' style of heater, so I decided to make a Blower Motor/Heater Core delete plate to clean up the fire wall.

[leegreen]

You are doing a great job saving that wagon and have no reason to be dissing your own metal working skills!

I like the one section at a time approach, it does not end in a shell suspended in a web of cross bracing with no floor at all being sold with the 'all the hard work is done' byline.

By the looks of that body you could switch from floors/frame to driveline and then drive it with exterior bodywork as-is. A reward period to rejuvenate your enthusiasm for continuing.

What are your plans for rust proofing inside those newly rebuilt floor braces ?

[Tempest67]

Thanks for the kind words, but my metal skills will be really tested when I start on those quarter panels.

I did brace the doors when I did the rocker panels, as the X frame has no support there, and the doors still open and close without an issue.

I coated the inside of the braces with that 'stone guard/bedliner' stuff but soon found out it was flammable when welded, so I simply painted them and will follow up with somekind of paint sprayed in with a blow gun.

A Home Reno project and the summer heat has slowed progress lately, but I am looking forward to getting back at it.

Thanks again

[HO455]

Nice job on your heater delete plate. Did you use a MDF die to form the piece?

[Tempest67]

not sure what an MDF Die is, but I used a cheap Bead Roller with the 'step dies'.

I used the same bead roller to make the beads for the floor pieces, but with the round dies. (tried to duplicate the factory design)

[HO455]

This guy does a good job of explaining how to use MDF to hammer form pieces. Never having had a bead roller I made a couple little covers in the past using MDF for a die.

https://youtu.be/oPgeZX46QTE?si=MaotjeF6bR9RQ7bR

[Tempest67]

Oh OK, I know what you mean now. Making the wood 'dies' is alot of work, I waited for this cheap bead roller to go on sale ($200?) and it has been useful when needed. (Princess Auto is the Canadian version of Harbor Freight)

I know it is a cheap Chinese tool, but for what I am doing, it works fine.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/18-1...t/PA0008536773

That guy in the video is a VERY talented

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Oh OK, I know what you mean now. Making the wood 'dies' is alot of work, I waited for this cheap bead roller to go on sale ($200?) and it has been useful when needed. (Princess Auto is the Canadian version of Harbor Freight)

I know it is a cheap Chinese tool, but for what I am doing, it works fine.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/18-1...t/PA0008536773

That guy in the video is a VERY talented

Japhands is very very skilled, and a fellow Canuck!

Great work so far, I am enjoying following along. I can see the improvement in your bead rolling on the passenger side after you did the drivers side.

[Tempest67]

Thanks bnorth, the hardest part is making a straight line

[HO455]

I saw this ad and immediately thought of you.

https://medford.craigslist.org/pts/d...755407194.html

[Tempest67]

Thanks, I like it.

$2000 for both cars! great potential there

[leegreen]

Have you modified the bead roller at all? I have the same thing, it works, but it works much better if you stiffen the two arms so they can't scissor back and forth. And a steering wheel makes it a lot easier to use than the crank

[Tempest67]

Hey Lee,

Yes I welded some angle iron to each arm, and drilled holes to insert pins to keep the arms together. The pins can be removed when working with wider pieces.

I still use the crank, but a wheel would be nice..... but I really don't use it that often.

[Tempest67]

Hi Guys, Quick update, not very exciting, but it is something to get accomplished in this heat.

I picked up some pulleys and brackets that needed some paint, so I gave them a quick coat.

I have found that this formula provides a good hard finish when dry, and it allows me to add flat black, or gloss black, to give a variety of different sheens under the hood. I have heard that more hardener will 'flatten' the sheen as well, but I am still experimenting with that. ( 3-4 parts paint, 1 part Acetone, and .25- .5 Hardener )

also, for you Americans, the paint is just a Canadian 'knock off' of Rustoleum.

[HO455]

Thanks for posting this. I've got the paint and acetone just need to pick up some hardener and I will give it a try.

[leegreen]

you may need a slower solvent than acetone on a hot day,
acetone fast
lacquer thinner med
toluene slow
is a rough guide

it is worth testing under expected conditions

[Tempest67]

I hope the formula helps as I am still experimenting, but I painted the radiator core and inner fenders last Fall and I am very pleased with how hard and durable the finish is. (and cheap)

Like I said, I like looking under the hood and seeing all the different "semi gloss" black finishes on the different items.