Inner race turns in the hub on my k20

[72c20customcamper]

Put it here for more exposure. Repacking the front bearings they had plenty of grease but I’m going to Tennessee next week . Bearings all clean look pristine but when wiping out the old grease the inner race turns in the hub . Not sure if I should continue or get new cups and cones

[Steeveedee]

That should be a press fit. Can you slide the race out of the hub? Given the tight tolerances on bearings, I'd think that the hub is damaged.

[jerry moss]

the race is much harder material than the hub, if it spins you need a new hub. i have in the past used a center punch to score the hub so the race would be tight- but only in an emergency situation until i could get a new hub.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by jerry moss

the race is much harder material than the hub, if it spins you need a new hub. i have in the past used a center punch to score the hub so the race would be tight- but only in an emergency situation until i could get a new hub.

Yep exactly correct. I’d replace that hub and races at a minimum asap.

[72c20customcamper]

Looks like I’ll be taking the 72 to Tennessee.

[72c20customcamper]

Ordered the complete rotor and hub assembly. Raybestos brand won’t be here till end of next week .

[72c20customcamper]

Popped out the race it’s been overheated. I have the hubs coming and I just ordered the cones and cups from Rockauto

[Steeveedee]

Good thing you found that before you left on your trip!

[57taskforce]

Good call, that’s probably been that way for a minute. Luckily you can still find the 44/10 bolt hubs fairly cheap/easily. It’s nice when you can get them assembled with the rotor like that. My front Dana 60 is expensive to replace hubs on and they are a little tougher to find.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Good thing you found that before you left on your trip!

Would have sucked big time getting stuck

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Good call, that’s probably been that way for a minute. Luckily you can still find the 44/10 bolt hubs fairly cheap/easily. It’s nice when you can get them assembled with the rotor like that. My front Dana 60 is expensive to replace hubs on and they are a little tougher to find.

Strange thing is the bearings had plenty of grease and show now sign of damage . Dust seal was in good shape so I can’t say dirt got in . The bearing and race were Bower made in USA so who knows. I bought Timkins to replace them

[72c20customcamper]

Well the hubs will be here tomorrow morning I’m going to try and get the cones and cups at Napa tomorrow. The online order site says that I can order tonight and pick up tomorrow. But I’ll just go to the store early and see if I can get them . I’ve had the order now and pick up tomorrow lie before .

[Steeveedee]

If the cups in the new hub are the same brand, they should match the cones. I've seen where one can buy the cones only. I don't know if there is any savings with that, beyond the time of having to pound out the "old" ones and pound in the new ones. Working as a piece-work mechanic in the past, it would have been less labor.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

If the cups in the new hub are the same brand, they should match the cones. I've seen where one can buy the cones only. I don't know if there is any savings with that, beyond the time of having to pound out the "old" ones and pound in the new ones. Working as a piece-work mechanic in the past, it would have been less labor.

It getting that way that the cone and cup is almost always sold separately. They should all be the same regardless of manufacturer say the bearing is an lm104959 if it a timkin or Bower the demensions are the same bearings are standardized throughout the industry . Didn’t even come to me the hubs may have the cups already installed

[Tireguy87]

Locktite makes a green compound that works well for this application. I’ve had to use it for knuckle bearing races. I always knurl the edges of whatever the race is going into, apply green compound, then press the race in.

[72c20customcamper]

Not a fan of chemical bonds overheat it and it turns to goo . Granted the high temp is rated to 450 degrees but I’m not trusting it . I’d rather replace than patch .

[57taskforce]

Glad you are getting back together, you definitely made the right call replacing the hub. As for the newer race in the old hub I wouldn’t put it past someone in the past to have just dropped a new race into a wore out hub. Lots can happen In 35-40 years.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Glad you are getting back together, you definitely made the right call replacing the hub. As for the newer race in the old hub I wouldn’t put it past someone in the past to have just dropped a new race into a wore out hub. Lots can happen In 35-40 years.

I’m the third owner . Both prior owners were very anal about the truck . I have every receipt and work invoice and every piece of the original paperwork including the bill of sale . Guy even kept the recall notices and the envelopes they came in . First owner was a mechanic second owner is a member here .

[72c20customcamper]

Hubs came today . Races were pre installed so much nicer that the rotor was installed too

[72c20customcamper]

One done

[HO455]

Congratulations! Time to pour yourself a tall cool reward.

[57taskforce]

Nice!

[72c20customcamper]

All done this morning . I think this had something to do with the shudder vibration I’ve been dealing with on the truck . Took it up to 75 mph no vibrations was super smooth

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by HO455

Congratulations! Time to pour yourself a tall cool reward.

I had a couple seltzers (non alcoholic) gave up alcohol 4 years ago

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

I had a couple seltzers (non alcoholic) gave up alcohol 4 years ago

As long as they were cold, they're still a good treat/reward!!