Battery, alternator or something else

[forestb]

One more thing I noticed when trying to start it again when I got home was that when I was trying start it up it made a single click noise (like the one that happened when it would not start) once then started right up.

[62bagger]

Electric is not my favorite subject, but I always heard that if your gauge reads negative voltage, it's a bad alternator because it is not charging the battery but if it shows excessive positive voltage, it's the battery because the alterneter is supplying all the power not the battery. It sounds correct to me but let's see what a better electrician has to say. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in.
I don't know how I posted twice.

[62bagger]

Electric is not my favorite subject, but I always heard that if your gauge reads negative voltage, it's a bad alternator because it is not charging the battery but if it shows excessive positive voltage, it's the battery because the alterneter is supplying all the power not the battery. It sounds correct to me but let's see what a better electrician has to say. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in.
I hate electrical issues.

[forestb]

It sounds like you guys are feeling like it might be an alternator problem. I will remove it and get it tested. I hate trying to diagnose electrical over the computer also. It’s a power master one wire internally regulated alternator. Hopefully the local parts store can diagnose it. I will check back in with you guys if the alternator gets a clean bill of health.

[grubsster]

I hate electrical gremlins. Easy to first check with a volt meter at the battery while running. Should be around 14 volts I think if the alternator is working properly. Then check the wiring to the alternator and check directly at the alternator. I figured out that mine was bad that way.

Good luck!

[forestb]

Originally Posted by grubsster

I hate electrical gremlins. Easy to first check with a volt meter at the battery while running. Should be around 14 volts I think if the alternator is working properly. Then check the wiring to the alternator and check directly at the alternator. I figured out that mine was bad that way.

Good luck!

So at the battery I am getting 12.01 volts and the same at the post of the one wire alternator. My gauge is still reading around 11 volts. It might be off by a volt.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by forestb

So at the battery I am getting 12.01 volts and the same at the post of the one wire alternator. My gauge is still reading around 11 volts. It might be off by a volt.

You didn't say whether the engine is running or not. 12 volts at the battery when the engine is running usually means the alternator is not charging. When checking a battery without the engine running, a fully charged battery will read 12.50 volts. Depending on the load being applied at the time of the test (electrical items turned on), a functioning alternator will produce 13.7 - 14.2 volts at the battery. The big wire on the back of the alternator is simply the other end of the positive battery cable, so the 2 points will always read very nearly the same voltage (+/- .1 - .2 volts), engine running or not. The 11 volt reading at the in dash voltmeter is probably correct and just represents a 1 volt drop over the length of the wire.

Based on what's happening now, I doubt the first battery was bad - just improperly tested.. A 30 minute "quick charge" will not build enough charge in a dead battery to give an accurate test.. 90% of the time, the battery will always test "bad".. A dead battery needs a slow charge for a few hours to bring it to full charge.. Never use the alternator to charge up a dead battery. Alternators aren't built to work like that.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

You didn't say whether the engine is running or not. 12 volts at the battery when the engine is running usually means the alternator is not charging. When checking a battery without the engine running, a fully charged battery will read 12.50 volts. Depending on the load being applied at the time of the test (electrical items turned on), a functioning alternator will produce 13.7 - 14.2 volts at the battery. The big wire on the back of the alternator is simply the other end of the positive battery cable, so the 2 points will always read very nearly the same voltage (+/- .1 - .2 volts), engine running or not. The 11 volt reading at the in dash voltmeter is probably correct and just represents a 1 volt drop over the length of the wire.

Based on what's happening now, I doubt the first battery was bad - just improperly tested.. A 30 minute "quick charge" will not build enough charge in a dead battery to give an accurate test.. 90% of the time, the battery will always test "bad".. A dead battery needs a slow charge for a few hours to bring it to full charge.. Never use the alternator to charge up a dead battery. Alternators aren't built to work like that.

The truck was running yesterday when I just tested it and it read 12.01 volts.
Don't worry I didn't try and use the alternators to charge a dead battery.
It was the auto parts store that tried to charge the battery and then tested it on Sunday.

So at 12.01 volts we are definitely thinking that it is a bad alternators?