134a what size orifice

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by chris989

It is what I used when i swapped from 12 to 134. I only went white fixed because I had it on the shelf and that is what is called for.

I am using a Sanden SD7,, With the fixed i could not get decent temps.. My motor runs around 2,000 or less in town.

Chris

The white GM orifice is 0.072
That's just fine for hydrocarbon R290 and R12.

You need a slightly smaller orifice for R134a and HFC152.
As I said the Ford blue is 0.067 and it seems to do the job.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by chris989

It is what I used when i swapped from 12 to 134. I only went white fixed because I had it on the shelf and that is what is called for.

I am using a Sanden SD7,, With the fixed i could not get decent temps.. My motor runs around 2,000 or less in town.

Chris

Originally Posted by hatzie

The white GM orifice is 0.072
That's just fine for hydrocarbon R290 and R12.

You need a slightly smaller orifice for R134a and HFC152.
As I said the Ford blue is 0.067 and it seems to do the job.

Gotcha. I talked to a local Hotrodder than runs an AC shop. He recommended the white one, so that's what I used when I did the LT swap in my 84 (Sanden compressor/134A). So far, it cools great with no issues. Hatzie - what symptoms should I look out for that might suggest that I switch to the blue one?

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Gotcha. I talked to a local Hotrodder than runs an AC shop. He recommended the white one, so that's what I used when I did the LT swap in my 84 (Sanden compressor/134A). So far, it cools great with no issues. Hatzie - what symptoms should I look out for that might suggest that I switch to the blue one?

Higher vent temps when you're in traffic with the engine idling or near idling.
If your set up is working I'd stick with it.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Higher vent temps when you're in traffic with the engine idling or near idling.
If your set up is working I'd stick with it.

Thanks. Will report back if I see any changes.

Rob