Bracket for drive shaft carrier bearing

[chevyindallas]

The previous owner welded the carrier bearing to the bracket that it bolts to and there no longer seem to be any bolt holes for the carrier bearing to attach to even if I was able to cut off the bearing. Does anyone know if there is a replacement bracket that can bolt on where the current bracket is?

[custom10nut]

It sounds like you’re going to need a new cross member.
At the very least, you need to fabricate the mount point.
It needs to all be lined up as it was from the factory, or you’ll forever have driveshaft issues

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by chevyindallas

The previous owner welded the carrier bearing to the bracket that it bolts to and there no longer seem to be any bolt holes for the carrier bearing to attach to even if I was able to cut off the bearing. Does anyone know if there is a replacement bracket that can bolt on where the current bracket is?

Carrier bracket has to be dead nuts for new holes. If I remember right, my crossmember, and perhaps all 1971ish CMs have six holes. Only four are used, depending on the chassis, I suppose. I don't know the hole measurements, and a glance of the web implies the mounts vary. This bracket is on my truck, front holes have threads.

Look on the parts board, though you have to be a paying member to do that.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Look on the parts board, though you have to be a paying member to do that.

He doesn't have to be a paying member to look, or buy items posted for sale on the parts board.

He would have to be a paying member to post a want to buy though, I think that is what you were thinking about....
.

[Jason Banks]

Post some pictures of what you are working with. Maybe we can point you to exactly what you need...

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

He doesn't have to be a paying member to look, or buy items posted for sale on the parts board.

He would have to be a paying member to post a want to buy though, I think that is what you were thinking about....
.

Probably, thanks

[jerry moss]

if you can post a picture of your bracket someone on here can help i'm sure.

[Lee H]

Long or short bed?

[chevyindallas]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Post some pictures of what you are working with. Maybe we can point you to exactly what you need...

Excellent. Will do

[chevyindallas]

Originally Posted by Lee H

Long or short bed?

Long bed

[chevyindallas]

That's what I was afraid of

[Jason Banks]

Since you are new here, to post a picture, click the "Go Advanced" button underneath the "Quick Reply" section "Message" box where you would normally type your reply in this thread.

Once on the advanced page there is a Paper Clip icon where you can attach files.

[Orange Crate]

X2 for pictures. Because the bearing has been welded to the bracket does not mean that it can't be salvaged. Welding is just extra metal and that can be be removed. But I guess it depends on how bad the "weld" is.

[chevyindallas]

Thanks for the help so far. Here are photos of the bracket. Let me know if a different angle would be helpful.

I am starting to think that I can just cut of the old bearing strap and grind the bracket till it is smooth but would love y'alls opinions.

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

X2 for pictures. Because the bearing has been welded to the bracket does not mean that it can't be salvaged. Welding is just extra metal and that can be be removed. But I guess it depends on how bad the "weld" is.

[Orange Crate]

I would get that whole unit off of there and put it in a plastic 5 gallon bucket and use the magic electrolysis (lots of videos on how to do this) to get it cleaned up. Then you can come up with a plan on what to do. At first glance I think it can be saved. One thing about electrolysis is it gets in between the parts that are spot welded or not accessible with mechanical methods.

[chevyindallas]

I can give that a shot. Would you just drill out the rivets that are holding the bracket onto the cross member?

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

I would get that whole unit off of there and put it in a plastic 5 gallon bucket and use the magic electrolysis (lots of videos on how to do this) to get it cleaned up. Then you can come up with a plan on what to do. At first glance I think it can be saved. One thing about electrolysis is it gets in between the parts that are spot welded or not accessible with mechanical methods.

[Jason Banks]

I would not worry too much about that surface rust.

Your plan of attacking it with a grinder to get back to the flat surface where you can bolt a new carrier bearing sounds perfect.

If you don't mind the expense get the billet carrier bearing like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wst-bcb-6372
or this - https://www.amazon.com/Driveshaft-re.../dp/B0B7WTDM7R

The reason whey they welded the previous one is because the quality of the carrier bearings like you have has gone to crap, the factory style. I have one of the factory style on a truck that I have welded back together at lest 3 times. Never considered just welding it to the truck, but I guess that fixed it until the next guy has to change the carrier bearing again.

[chevyindallas]

Love this idea. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

I would not worry too much about that surface rust.

Your plan of attacking it with a grinder to get back to the flat surface where you can bolt a new carrier bearing sounds perfect.

If you don't mind the expense get the billet carrier bearing like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wst-bcb-6372
or this - https://www.amazon.com/Driveshaft-re.../dp/B0B7WTDM7R

The reason whey they welded the previous one is because the quality of the carrier bearings like you have has gone to crap, the factory style. I have one of the factory style on a truck that I have welded back together at lest 3 times. Never considered just welding it to the truck, but I guess that fixed it until the next guy has to change the carrier bearing again.

[michael bustamante]

If it turns out the crossmemver is too far gone, I have crossmemver I can cut out of the frame for you. Lemme know

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

The reason whey they welded the previous one is because the quality of the carrier bearings like you have has gone to crap, the factory style. I have one of the factory style on a truck that I have welded back together at lest 3 times. Never considered just welding it to the truck, but I guess that fixed it until the next guy has to change the carrier bearing again.

I think what happens is if the slip joint isn't greased the driveshaft movement tends to push the stock carrier forward and backwards. And with a little rust sets up a stress point.... The aftermarket ones look to be more solid but you still have to grease that slip.....

[HO455]

I'm going to try and clear some misconceptions up. The carrier bearing in question is for the basic coil spring 1/2 ton truck. These trucks did not come with a sliding joint in the rear drive shaft like the 3/4 tons and leaf spring 1/2 ton trucks like 71CHEVYSHORTBED402 shows.

I have seen 3 different styles of carrier bearings for the various 67-72 trucks and there may be more I haven’t seen so it's no wonder as to why there is confusion. Photo #1 shows the basic 1/2 ton driveline with no sliding joint.

When the truck's rear axle moves up and down the drive shaft moves fore and aft. On trucks like 71CHEVYSHORTBED402's the slip joint absorbs this move by collapsing and expanding as needed.

On the basic 1/2 ton the movement is absorbed by the yoke on the end of the transmission moving in and out of the tailshaft. In the 2nd photo the red arrows indicate the fore and aft movement of the driveline. Since the bearing doesn't slide on the driveline the rubber bushing flexs to allow the bearing to move fore and aft. The green arrows point to the rubber bushing that must flex. The rubber will only flex so far so the carrier bearing MUST be installed with no preload on the rubber when the truck is at ride height.

The yellow arrow points to the slots in the bearing mount that allow the carrier to be installed with no preload at ride height.

Things get problematic when the truck is lowered (or raised) too much and the adjustment range provided by the factory isn't enough and the bearing gets installed with a preload either forward or aft. When that happens the rubber cannot flex enough and the bracket then is forced to flex, eventually work hardening the steel and breaking apart.

Another common cause of carrier failure on a stock height truck is installing the carrier with the rear axle hanging and not sitting at ride height. 2 post lifts are nice but.....

As mentioned you can replace the factory style carrier bearing with the billet style but you MUST replace the complete driveline with one that has the sliding joint in the rear half of the driveline as the billet carrier does not flex. Billet style shown in last photo. Green arrow indicates the sliding joint.

I hope this helps. If not just shout out and hopefully I answer the questions.

[Steeveedee]

^ I learned this lesson 50 years ago-
"Another common cause of carrier failure on a stock height truck is installing the carrier with the rear axle hanging and not sitting at ride height. 2 post lifts are nice but....."
It includes cars, like my '64 Impala. BTDT

[chevyindallas]

Whoa! This is hugely helpful. And definitely saved me from a mistake. Thank you.

Originally Posted by HO455

I'm going to try and clear some misconceptions up. The carrier bearing in question is for the basic coil spring 1/2 ton truck. These trucks did not come with a sliding joint in the rear drive shaft like the 3/4 tons and leaf spring 1/2 ton trucks like 71CHEVYSHORTBED402 shows.

I have seen 3 different styles of carrier bearings for the various 67-72 trucks and there may be more I haven’t seen so it's no wonder as to why there is confusion. Photo #1 shows the basic 1/2 ton driveline with no sliding joint.

When the truck's rear axle moves up and down the drive shaft moves fore and aft. On trucks like 71CHEVYSHORTBED402's the slip joint absorbs this move by collapsing and expanding as needed.

On the basic 1/2 ton the movement is absorbed by the yoke on the end of the transmission moving in and out of the tailshaft. In the 2nd photo the red arrows indicate the fore and aft movement of the driveline. Since the bearing doesn't slide on the driveline the rubber bushing flexs to allow the bearing to move fore and aft. The green arrows point to the rubber bushing that must flex. The rubber will only flex so far so the carrier bearing MUST be installed with no preload on the rubber when the truck is at ride height.

The yellow arrow points to the slots in the bearing mount that allow the carrier to be installed with no preload at ride height.

Things get problematic when the truck is lowered (or raised) too much and the adjustment range provided by the factory isn't enough and the bearing gets installed with a preload either forward or aft. When that happens the rubber cannot flex enough and the bracket then is forced to flex, eventually work hardening the steel and breaking apart.

Another common cause of carrier failure on a stock height truck is installing the carrier with the rear axle hanging and not sitting at ride height. 2 post lifts are nice but.....

As mentioned you can replace the factory style carrier bearing with the billet style but you MUST replace the complete driveline with one that has the sliding joint in the rear half of the driveline as the billet carrier does not flex. Billet style shown in last photo. Green arrow indicates the sliding joint.

I hope this helps. If not just shout out and hopefully I answer the questions.

[54blackhornet]

HO455 thanks for educating us who are not so experienced…

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by HO455

I'm going to try and clear some misconceptions up. The carrier bearing in question is for the basic coil spring 1/2 ton truck. These trucks did not come with a sliding joint in the rear drive shaft like the 3/4 tons and leaf spring 1/2 ton trucks like 71CHEVYSHORTBED402 shows.

I have seen 3 different styles of carrier bearings for the various 67-72 trucks and there may be more I haven’t seen so it's no wonder as to why there is confusion. Photo #1 shows the basic 1/2 ton driveline with no sliding joint.

When the truck's rear axle moves up and down the drive shaft moves fore and aft. On trucks like 71CHEVYSHORTBED402's the slip joint absorbs this move by collapsing and expanding as needed.

On the basic 1/2 ton the movement is absorbed by the yoke on the end of the transmission moving in and out of the tailshaft. In the 2nd photo the red arrows indicate the fore and aft movement of the driveline. Since the bearing doesn't slide on the driveline the rubber bushing flexs to allow the bearing to move fore and aft. The green arrows point to the rubber bushing that must flex. The rubber will only flex so far so the carrier bearing MUST be installed with no preload on the rubber when the truck is at ride height.

The yellow arrow points to the slots in the bearing mount that allow the carrier to be installed with no preload at ride height.

Things get problematic when the truck is lowered (or raised) too much and the adjustment range provided by the factory isn't enough and the bearing gets installed with a preload either forward or aft. When that happens the rubber cannot flex enough and the bracket then is forced to flex, eventually work hardening the steel and breaking apart.

Another common cause of carrier failure on a stock height truck is installing the carrier with the rear axle hanging and not sitting at ride height. 2 post lifts are nice but.....

As mentioned you can replace the factory style carrier bearing with the billet style but you MUST replace the complete driveline with one that has the sliding joint in the rear half of the driveline as the billet carrier does not flex. Billet style shown in last photo. Green arrow indicates the sliding joint.

I hope this helps. If not just shout out and hopefully I answer the questions.

Nice education, appreciated. Sounds like two general types, one for leaf springs, one for coil springs. For 2wd anyway.