67 Camaro Build

[KevinK7]

Getting there I like the Mr. Gasket diff cover, ...old skool

[yuccales]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Getting there I like the Mr. Gasket diff cover, ...old skool

Agreed. That cover is way cool!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Getting there I like the Mr. Gasket diff cover, ...old skool

Originally Posted by yuccales

Agreed. That cover is way cool!

Yes sir, it’s getting closer all the time. Thanks guys, that diff cover is one of my favorites.



Time to start building out the dash, specifically the dash speaker. Doing a test fit and a foam/felt job, that’ll keep the Kicker speakers hidden and protected from stuff falling through the dash opening. Not a fan of the felt I used, it’s too soft. My crystal ball tells me it’s going to be replaced before the final installation.

[7dee2]

I’m tired of looking at the white seem sealer so a few minutes with a rattle can and problem solved.

[KevinK7]

Brett,
I just got back from the Camaro Nationals, thought you might be 'inspired'
Keep up the great work

[CG]

Interesting history. I never heard the back story on this car before.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Brett,
I just got back from the Camaro Nationals, thought you might be 'inspired'
Keep up the great work

Thanks for sharing, I am inspired to get this car done! You're lucky, I need to make it to the Camaro Nationals one of these days.

Originally Posted by CG

Interesting history. I never heard the back story on this car before.

Very interesting, I think I read in Doug Boyce’s book about the dipped body for Toy IV. Very good read that book, I thought the story on how they picked up Toy III was good also.
https://www.cartechbooks.com/product...jenkins-cars-1



Body shop dust made a mess of our new hinges. Stuff does not want to come off so I pulled off the hinge springs and ran them through the blast cabinet. After that a few coats of satin clear they’re looking pretty good. The springs were not as porous and did clean up better so I left them and reinstalled. Last shot, hood hinges and all the striker stuff received the same blast and seal treatment.

[Lost in the 60's]

I'm kind of surprised they allowed the "Toy" at that show. It has been confirmed as not the original Toy III and even Bill made that clear years ago. The car owner claims it is the '67 that was "converted", but the trim tag clearly shows it is a '68 built car.....

[7dee2]

I didn’t know about the 68-trim tag (a 68 tub would certainly make using 68 doors much, much easier! ). I’ve never had the opportunity to see this or the original Toy IV in person and do not have any opinion to offer on its validity. But it's cool the effort was made to make it as close to the actual car as they have. Here are a couple of articles about Dale & Vicki’s Camaro.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/...toy-iv-camaro/
https://www.chevyhardcore.com/featur...enkins-toy-iv/



A quick mockup of the core support was in order so it could go for paint. Here’s what the factory setup would look like on this side (pic#3), made a simple standoff bracket for the MSD relay module. I won’t use the washer jar as the new WW motor doesn’t have a pump. Also, we won’t need the external voltage regulator we’ll be running a 12si internal regulated 150 amp alternator to support the radiator fans and stereo components. A replacement horn relay will be located in the same place. Everything else (battery tray, headlight brackets, horns, etc.) has been bolted to the core support so it and the rest of that stuff can go.

[Lost in the 60's]

Looks like good progress.
The Camaro is a very nice "rendition" but is not the original, as they vehemently claim.
Another thread to read thru. A lot of vintage pics to look at, if nothing else...
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthre...grumpy+jenkins

[7dee2]

I think so, steady progress continues to be the goal.

Lots of contradictory irrefutable evidence in the thread you provided. And you are right, the pics are great!



I know, I know, how many vintage green line pedestal tachometers does one person need? NOS, in the box with original hardware! I saw this on the local classifieds and ran right over to make it mine.

[7dee2]

Continuing to work brake lines, the intermediate rear line has just enough room to pass under the left subframe connector. It looks like it's running close to the rollbar’s rear downbar mount bolts, but it’ll clear. I'm not super happy with how close the rear brake hose is getting to the exhaust. It’d probably be ok but moving it further right would be even better.

[Troy Sr]

I bought all new SW green line gauges for my '55 Belair, but the tach is one that goes into a panel so I I bought a chrome cup for the back of it!!! I wish I knew about the tach you bought I would have gotten it!!! My '55 had old green lines when I got it in 1972 but when I turned 16 I changed them out with some cheap made in taiwan gauges!!!!

[7dee2]

SW green line gauges are one of my favorite old skool gauges, for this project I’m leaning towards my updated SW 977j pedestal tach (1st link). That and some new reproduction SW deluxe series black face gauges to facilitate a cowl-mounted fuel pressure gauge (2nd link, more on that stuff later).
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=245
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=395





The front clip has found its way into the paint booth, it's go time!

[7dee2]

While Perk’s is getting some paint on the front clip, I’m mocking up our fuel line plumbing at the back of the car. As mentioned earlier, the new rear exhaust hanger bar is handy to mount the fuel filter. Our fuel tank is still wearing the cover Mrs. 7dee2 made to protect the powder-coated finish.

[7dee2]

Our frontend bits and pieces are also in primer.

[KevinK7]

Getting closer. It's gonna be nice to see those parts getting bolted back on, ...for the final time Looks great Brett ; )

[7dee2]

Thanks Kevin, I appreciate it.



I decided a while ago that I needed to learn how to make PTFE AN fuel line for this and future projects. It didn’t go well initially, ruined a few fittings, and the first hose when pressure tested was garbage (dagnabit, this stuff is a little spendy! ). But hey, practice makes perfect, eventually I did get it and luckily haven’t ruined a hose since. The last pic shows two early attempts at making the short hose from the tank to the fuel filter. The one with the schrader valve fitting is a keeper.

[Lost in the 60's]

Expensive lessons usually stay with me longer....
I went thru the same thing 40 years ago, working for a bus company that all the air and fuel lines were made that way with stainless braided over rubber. A little spit on the end of the male insert goes a long way toward insertion success...
I learned to use duct tape when cutting the line to avoid unraveling of the jacket and steel. Place the tape so the cut is in the center of the tape width. The trick with that, is to peel it off laterally, rather than circular. Helps to keep the stray wires in place for the nut to go over easier.
I used that method for the next 38 years on my own semi repairs.

[7dee2]

Ain't that the truth! You know, insertion success has always been a personal goal of mine!



Paint update, the hood is looking great!

[69cam]

Dang that looks sharp!

[7dee2]

Thanks 69cam!




The frontend bits are done and ready to take home. The fenders and header panel are soaking up some rays before the emblems get installed. Perk’s Customs is doing a killer job!

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

that hood looks awesome! I have always loved the stinger hood and that stripe has always been the icing on the cake for it, just sets it off and adds to the mean look that it has. Does that hood just have the "scoop" area blanked out or does it also accept the Corvette insert that they had on the OEM hoods?

[7dee2]

Thanks, it’s just blacked out. I thought the same thing and even borrowed a used OE 67 Vette Stinger Insert from a buddy of mine. We found the scoop stamping is not an exact match for the insert, plus the inner structure creates problems. So after working with Perk’s, we decided the steel hood is not very conducive to this mod. I have seen pics of this done and it appears it’s always a fiberglass hood.




Brake line plumbing on the front of the car, so far so good. The only issue is the front of the intermediate rear brake line (2 pc line) is not cooperating. As expected, I have to bend the lines around a little as my Inline Tube conversion kit (link) is for power disc brakes. They don’t make one for a manual disc brake conversion so some adjustments were expected. https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ccb6768

Before painting the rear exhaust hanger and while I had the exhaust/tank temporarily installed. One last look at the fuel filter with the short hose installed was in order. The rear brake hose spacing to the exhaust is much better than before and I’m satisfied it will function without any heat issues. I ended up replacing one (L) and shortened (R) the other and then reshaped both rear diff brake lines.

[72 tigger]

Both the paint and brake lines look great!
I appreciate and respect your attention to detail