2/4 or 3/5 lowering Kit with Disc Brakes

[Luke87gt]

Hi guys,

Although I won’t be doing it right away, I would like to plan out lowering my ‘69 c10 shortbed.

As ECE is no longer selling (this seems to be the company that was most commonly recommended when I search this topic), who is the go to company for a 2/4 or 3/5 lowering kit with disk brakes (I assume a 2 inch drop spindle + springs) would be common.

I’m looking for a reputable tried and true kit that’s been used with success many times over

- provides an advertised drop resulting in level ride height
- no changes to track width
- good quality/value parts
- no major compromises in ride quality
- complete kit

I assume I need 4 springs, drop spindles, shocks (and drop mount unless shocks are shorter), panhard, rotors/bearings/shields, rear spring mounts, etc

I look forward to your recommendations, thank you!

[Wikid61]

Level? You mean the front & back are true level? What wheel tire are you planning to run?

[oneshotkyle]

I put a speedway 3/5 spring kit with shocks, relocated rear shock bracket and new longer adjustable panhard on with no issues and ride is as good as stock. All trucks sit leaning to driver side so shiming and tinkering may be needed.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by Wikid61

Level? You mean the front & back are true level? What wheel tire are you planning to run?

Level front to back yes, or very close to it.

I see some guys post pics and they either have a rake or the back is sagging. I understand every car is a bit different, uses different engine/trans combination etc. However, it would be great to be as close to level as possible.

Also, I’ve read some complaints about certain kits changing the track width which I want to avoid. This only comes into play if the lowering kits with spindles.

Wheels/tires will be 15x8 4.0BS truck rallys with 275/60/15 BFG tires.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by oneshotkyle

I put a speedway 3/5 spring kit with shocks, relocated rear shock bracket and new longer adjustable panhard on with no issues and ride is as good as stock. All trucks sit leaning to driver side so shiming and tinkering may be needed.

Thanks for sharing. That’s a pretty cost effective kit.

I’ve wondered whether you can drop a full 3” with springs and still be able to align the front to spec? I’ve been skeptical of this.

[oneshotkyle]

Well all of my front was completely wore out and alignment shops wanted **** tightened up before they would touch it. I lowered first and have been driving as is locally till i sourced all the parts. Monday i have disc conversion with 2.5” drop spindles showing up. Already put 2” blocks and c-notches in rear. So i will be at 5.5/7 overall. But did haul 2 crf450r dirtbikes out to the desert one day with my son and did bottom out once. But that was with no notches. Overall pretty happy with the price and ride quality

[Mike C]

First of all, thank you for putting the effort into searching some before posting! It is very unfortunate that ECE hasn’t been resurrected after their purchase by Holley.

Switching to disc brakes means a 2 1/2” drop spindles and then either a 1” or 2” drop spring. On my ‘69 I did use the ECE kit with 4 1/2” drop in the front. Spindles and a 2” spring. My truck is a leaf spring C10 so a DJM flip kit netted just over 7” drop in the back.

I run a 235 55 17 tire in the front and a 275 55 17 tire in the back and the truck sits very level. The swap to 17” wheels (or maybe 18’s now because of tire choices) one of the absolute best mods to my truck. It allows plenty of tire height with a somewhat reduced sidewall as well. Your wheel tire combo dictates the stance as much as the spring combo. Math says the fronts are just a 1/10 over 27” tall and the rears a 1/10 under 29” so there is 1” of rake built in to the system since half that height above axle centerline and half below.

I would probably do a 5” spring and a 1” block in the back for a 3 1/2” front 6” rear drop if running same height tire all around. The block allows you to have an inch of adjustability if it is too low for your tastes.

I wish I could tell you who makes the best kit anymore, but I like doing business with Speedway so that’s probably where I would start.

[hdrolling]

My first attempt was 3/5 just CPP springs, CPP Wilwood front disk kit and LSM rear disk conversion. Shock relocators in the rear and adjustable panhard bar. I had the bed off at the time so I C notched it just in case. Beltech lowering shocks, the black ones.

Ride wasn't bad but a little bouncy in front, and I wanted to go a little lower.

Second attempt I installed CPP 2.5 lowering spindles and 2" front springs, added a 1" lower block to the rear and front and rear CPP sway bars. Switched to the Belltech silver lowering shocks.

Looks just how I wanted it now, firm and handles great in the turns. Front is a little too stiff now so I might try putting the black shocks on the front and leave the silver on the rear.
I'm on 20's, First pic is 3/5 and then the 4.5/6

[samert111]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I’ve wondered whether you can drop a full 3” with springs and still be able to align the front to spec? I’ve been skeptical of this.

Yes, you can, but that would be the most you can do with springs on the front and keep the front end geometry good. I think anything more with just springs would create some issues with bump steer.

I used a set of CPP springs (2/5) and found that most of the aftermarket front springs would not nest properly in the upper pocket and were rubbing in the upper pocket opening. The OEM springs, the top and bottom coils ends were clocked in-line with each other and every aftermarket spring I tried the ends were clocked 180 degrees from one another, so I cut 1/2 coil off the bottom of the CPP 2" spring which made it a 3" drop spring, problem solved, and the stance was what I was looking for.

I did have to trim the rear bump stops flush to the frame because the rear diff was almost touching the stops at ride height. A 5" rear spring drop is the max I think you can get away with without having to notch the frame.

I used the No Limit rear shock relocation kit which moves the rear shock mount to behind the rear dif and to the outside of the frame rails.

[Richard]

Even if stock alignment specs can be achieved. Note that using 3" drop springs will eat the inside of your tires due to the accelerated camber curve. Expect 10-15k on front tires at most. This is due to the arms being deeper into the camber curve. Not a problem for some that do not put on many miles. For a daily driver it can be cause more expense. I got tired of it after three front tire purchases.

[Luke87gt]

Can anyone help me identify what is adjusted on these trucks to manipulate caster/camber?

[BRL]

Originally Posted by Richard

Even if stock alignment specs can be achieved. Note that using 3" drop springs will eat the inside of your tires due to the accelerated camber curve. Expect 10-15k on front tires at most. This is due to the arms being deeper into the camber curve. Not a problem for some that do not put on many miles. For a daily driver it can be cause more expense. I got tired of it after three front tire purchases.

Wow thanks for sharing, I wasn't aware of that.
I'm personally not interested in lowering my truck but that's good information to be aware of IMHO.

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Can anyone help me identify what is adjusted on these trucks to manipulate caster/camber?

You use shims at the upper control arm cross shaft mounting bolts.
There is also a caster mod that can be done with the shaft on the lower arms. Search the site and you'll find that info.

[Luke87gt]

Can anyone link me to a CPP 3/5 kit with drop spindles and front disks?

Also, are the rear shock relocation mounts needed if I’m getting shorter shocks anyway? In other words, are those rear lower shock relocation mounts used to correct for the stock length or to improve geometry? Or both?

[hdrolling]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Can anyone link me to a CPP 3/5 kit with drop spindles and front disks?

Also, are the rear shock relocation mounts needed if I’m getting shorter shocks anyway? In other words, are those rear lower shock relocation mounts used to correct for the stock length or to improve geometry? Or both?

The rear shock relocators are to get the shocks back at the angle they need to be, the lower the frame gets from the axle the more the shocks start to lay flat instead of vertical.

When I did my 3/5 I also needed an adjustable rear panhard bar, otherwise your have the rear axle more to one side vs centered in the rear of the truck.

For kits just search around for the best price, honestly last week would have been all the sales so you might have missed out on some savings.

[Luke87gt]

CPP or McGaughy's?

Which is the more sought after brand?

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

CPP or McGaughy's?

Which is the more sought after brand?

These seem to be the two common options now that ECE is not longer in business.

Which is generally considered to be the better choice?

CPP’s website is so poor it makes me gun shy to spend money with them

Thanks