Timing chain confusion.

[Kalums]

Ok I've read a couple of threads on here about swapping timing chains and... I'm thoroughly confused. Maybe I'm just not getting it, but are my timing marks supposed to be at the 12 and 12 position(s) OR are they supposed to be Cam mark at 6 o'clock and crank at 12 o'clock? I have found my TDC (compression stroke) and my "timing mark" and rotor are both off... And not equally. Also for a stock 350 should I get a Cloyes #C3001K or a #C3023K (or X)? I really don't want to spend hours grinding on the block. 3rd and 4th questions, suggestions on harmonic balancer (one of my current issues is because the rubber ring has deteriorated and the balancer moved) and or water pump (might as well do it while it is off already)? All I'm finding near me are Dorman parts with different sellers part #s.

Btw stock 71 350, no mods, picture is of what was supposed to be TDC... But definitely is not😩

As a side note should I re-align my distributor while I'm at this (provided it is still "off" after doing the timing set?

[Willshook]

Cam at 6, crank at 12. This will leave the engine at TDC compression #6...so remember to set to 8-12 BTDC compression #1 before dropping the distributor in. Most common reason for new engines not starting.

The C3001K is fine for a stock replacement. Double roller cams are engines making over 1 HP/CID at the wheels. Shouldn't have to grind on anything. I am a fan of putting on bolt retainers, but honestly it's not really needed. Just cheap insurance for engines that are probably going to be running for a long time. You don't need a cam button.

The Dorman stuff is fine for a stock engine. The 594-012 one is fine - the "S" for the street version just means it has some high performance features like scribed on degree marks.

Water pump is kinda up to you as a 'while I'm in there' thing...

I don't know what "re-align" means, but yes - you want to verify TDC with a piston stop, make sure the mark on the balancer and your timing tab are right, and then set the timing

[geezer#99]

Put cam at 6 and crank at 12. That’s #6 tdc compression. Rotate crank once and you’ll have #1tdc compression.
Designed that way. Easier for the engine guy to line up two dots right close togethor than try to eyeball two dots a long ways apart. Less chance of error.
If I see your timing tab/balancer mark correctly then your marks are only 4 degrees off.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Willshook

Cam at 6, crank at 12. This will leave the engine at TDC compression #6...so remember to set to 8-12 BTDC compression #1 before dropping the distributor in. Most common reason for new engines not starting.

The C3001K is fine for a stock replacement. Double roller cams are engines making over 1 HP/CID at the wheels. Shouldn't have to grind on anything. I am a fan of putting on bolt retainers, but honestly it's not really needed. Just cheap insurance for engines that are probably going to be running for a long time. You don't need a cam button.

The Dorman stuff is fine for a stock engine. The 594-012 one is fine - the "S" for the street version just means it has some high performance features like scribed on degree marks.

Water pump is kinda up to you as a 'while I'm in there' thing...

I don't know what "re-align" means, but yes - you want to verify TDC with a piston stop, make sure the mark on the balancer and your timing tab are right, and then set the timing

OK I understand TDC with a piston stop, that is how I found my current "TDC". When I'm at TDC on #1 cylinder my timing mark on the balancer is off by roughly 90 dgrs to the driver's side from the TDC timing tab/plate and my distributor rotor is pointing directly at the front of the engine (roughly 20 dgrs to the passenger side from pointing to #1 cylinder). So at this point my cylinder #1 is at TDC... I change the gears and chain and re-align my timing marks... Provided I don't take out the distributor, what is my next step please ? How do I get 8-12 degrees BTDC? I've never done this before. Explain it like I'm 5...(no sarcasm, seriously please be patient) and thank you.

Something I just realized and need to check in the morning... I believe if I turn the crank by hand clockwise (while standing in front of the truck) the distributor rotor turns counter clock wise if you are looking top-down at it... Isn't that an Oldsmobile "thing"? Could that be my "runs like poop" reason? Because I could tell after taking off the cap and rotor that the distributor itself was no name and shiny chrome inside ( the body, weights for the VA and springs) except for the GM icm and coil... Maybe I'm remembering wrong too... I do need sleep.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Put cam at 6 and crank at 12. That’s #6 tdc compression. Rotate crank once and you’ll have #1tdc compression.
Designed that way. Easier for the engine guy to line up two dots right close togethor than try to eyeball two dots a long ways apart. Less chance of error.
If I see your timing tab/balancer mark correctly then your marks are only 4 degrees off.

That picture was from when I first lined it up to try to find TDC, I have since used a piston stop, hand cranking both directions letting it "stop" and marking the middle... Which is about 90 degrees to the driver's side from that mark... But the caveat to that is my balancer is loose (rubber is rotten) and only takes a little force to move. I'm surprised it hasn't flown off tbh