What is this distributor?

[Detour]

I’m swapping out the manifold so I pulled the distributor yesterday and I’m rather confused. Truck is a 1967 K20 with a 1964 Impala motor. I was expecting an old points ignition, but realized I have something else. The coil is the round canister coil instead of the integrated on HEI. The cap has no wire connectors and there’s only one wire coming from the bottom of the distributor. Inside the distributor, there is no circuit board like an HEI And no points clean.

[Orange71shorty]

Looks like a stock points distributor to me. HEI was later and never came on 67-72 trucks

[Getter-Done]

That just a regular points type distributor.

That set of points has the condenser installed directly to the points body.

[Detour]

Thanks. I'll take a closer look at it. I thought it was points distributor, but didn't see the contacts to inspect for cleaning. It's got some rust under the weights so I'll just pull it apart and inspect. Thanks for the help.

There was a condenser on the side of the coil. Does that mean I should eliminate the second exterior condenser?

[truckster]

If you rotate the distributor shaft you'll see the points open and close.

[yuccales]

The one on the coil is to do away with the "audio tach" feature on your AM radio. Just kidding, it's the ignition noise suppressor.

[Detour]

Disassembled the distributor to clean things up and inspect. Definitely see the points now and they need to be replaced. They are all jagged like they had been stuck together at some point in the past and didn’t separate cleanly.

Haha, Yuccales I do know exactly what you mean on the AM stations.

Thanks again guys

[Lokin4AReason]

that is points alright

they have a few kit(s) available at were you can replace it w an upgrade in eliminating the points . with also keeping a stock look to it

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ll-block-gen-i

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

That set of points has the condenser installed directly to the points body.

They’re called a uni-set.
Two downfalls to them.
Hard to set gap due to access and you use an Allen wrench to adjust them.
Also need a dwell meter.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

They’re called a uni-set.
Two downfalls to them.
Hard to set gap due to access and you use an Allen wrench to adjust them.
Also need a dwell meter.

I am very familiar with them.

A Mechanic that rented the shop in front of my Momma and Daddy's house would pull those out as soon as he seen them.

Then he would replace them with what (He Called) the regular set.

I still Remember his dislike for them.

I still have the dwell meter box he used.

[Stocker]

Reading about points-type distributors reminded me of hearing, decades ago, that you could set points with a matchbook cover. I never actually did that, but.... do they still even make matchbooks? Used to see 'em everywhere, often given away as free advertising. I don't recall seeing one for a whole lotta years. I do remember them switching from front-strike to rear-strike. One of the early steps to protect us from ourselves.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Reading about points-type distributors reminded me of hearing, decades ago, that you could set points with a matchbook cover. I never actually did that, but.... do they still even make matchbooks? Used to see 'em everywhere, often given away as free advertising. I don't recall seeing one for a whole lotta years. I do remember them switching from front-strike to rear-strike. One of the early steps to protect us from ourselves.

Yeah they still have those matchbooks.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/30-Strike-Mat...s%2C814&sr=8-1

I have seen people years ago take a penny to clean the contacts.
So that they could make it to the nearest station to get them changed out.

[RustyPile]

GM uses a unique "uniset", the points and condenser are connected together as a unit.. The proper method is to use a dwell meter to set the points with the engine running.. A dwell meter is almost impossible to find today, but it's possible to use a feeler gauge.. Before you install the distributor, rotate the shaft to set points rubbing block on one of the peaks of the shaft.. Use an allen wrench and feeler gauge, set the points gap to .018"..

If you are able to locate a dwell meter, set the points to 32 degrees.

[truckster]

I still have a dwell meter. I haven't used it for many years, but you never know...

[Ol Blue K20]

I still have a dwell meter and the flex shaft Allen for adjusting the points.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I still have a dwell meter and the flex shaft Allen for adjusting the points.

I remember those flex shaft allen .

Do you have one of those locking screw holders?

The one that use used to hold the screw,
to keep from dropping the screw to the bottom of the distributor.

[Steeveedee]

I have that flex driver and two of those locking screwdrivers, one short and one long. Both with magnets. I also have a clutch head driver set for those '50 Chevies I had and worked on. Still have the dwell/tach I bought in about '76, too.

[Accelo]

Core Distributor 8-283 ID-1111150 Fits 1967 CHEVROLET 1500

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Can’t Remember last time I saw Points in a Distributor.
Now that I have an LS can’t remember last time I saw a Distributor

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Reading about points-type distributors reminded me of hearing, decades ago, that you could set points with a matchbook cover. I never actually did that, but.... do they still even make matchbooks? Used to see 'em everywhere, often given away as free advertising. I don't recall seeing one for a whole lotta years. I do remember them switching from front-strike to rear-strike. One of the early steps to protect us from ourselves.

Urban Hotrodders Rumor was that a match book cover was perfect for setting point gap, never did it or seen it done, but knew guys who claimed it worked, anything that works when in a bind is probably how it first got used.

[1970cstblazer]

After a MSD electronic distributor module failure while in storage for a few months, I went back to traditional points in my 1972 402 Cheyenne, and retained them in my 1970 Blazer. Key is to only use NOS USA made Delco points with the separate condenser unit, points gap to .019", dwell at 30 degrees(recommended range is 28-32), and to ensure the distributor points cam is lubed with the correct lubricant. I also use NOS green stripe AC spark plugs in all of my vintage GM vehicles. Both the truck and Blazer start instantly in any weather, and run excellent and consistently. These will last several years with my below 1000 mile a year usage of either vehicle.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Urban Hotrodders Rumor was that a match book cover was perfect for setting point gap, never did it or seen it done, but knew guys who claimed it worked, anything that works when in a bind is probably how it first got used.

I had to do it once in an emergency. It wasn't perfect, but it would get you back on the road.

[RichardJ]

I have a box of match books. .017" for the cover and just under .015" for the match sticks. .019" is for NEW polished contact points. Used points, even when filed relatively smooth, have to be set with a thinner gauge to achieve the desired dwell.
Match cover thicknesses do vary, but more accurate than eyeballing it. In the image, a 016" gauge can produce a really wide gap if you don't do some cleaning.

I have done it myself. With a screwdriver, a matchbook found on the side if the road and a street light to see by.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

If the dizzy has a clamp for the "detached condenser" style can, they are a lot easier to tune. I was too dumb to answer that question correctly, so ended up doing it the hard way. Blue Streak points have been working fine for me.
If anything else is worn on the distributor, it's prolly worth upgrading to one of the Pertronix igniters/distributors/HEI's depending on how deep you want to go