65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[SCOTI]

The doors do look clean. Very clean.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looking good! Nice work Vic

Thanks, Dale!

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The doors do look clean. Very clean.

I agree - I lucked out on the doors, hood and trunk lid. For that matter, the bulk of the ugly was below the floors so overall I won't have a huge amount of body work to do when the time comes. Silver lining stuff.

I'm working on the seat mounts at the moment. I ended up cutting windows in the floor where the seat track mounts go. I toyed with the idea of profiling the track mounts and setting them on top of the floor, but I decided this approach might be a bit stronger in the end.

I was surprised at how large the seats seemed to be when I actually got them in the car. They came out of a BMW M3 convertible which isn't all that big a vehicle. After tacking the mounts in on the driver side, I sat down in it and it feels really good. I think once the rest of the interior is in place, they won't look out of place.

[SCOTI]

Looks good from my screen. How much head-room are you getting?

Did you do the 'elbow' test (elbow on the door frame w/the window down)? That is usually a fair indicator of placement for automotive ergonomics.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks good from my screen. How much head-room are you getting?

Did you do the 'elbow' test (elbow on the door frame w/the window down)? That is usually a fair indicator of placement for automotive ergonomics.

Seems like plenty of headroom - a full hand width between the top of my noggin and the roof. Of course, the headliner will reduce that some. I'll have to hang a door for a more accurate test but using the "air door" technique, it seems fine. My problem with these older model cars are the traffic signals. I end up hunching down and leaning forward to see if the light is still red. Or, at my age, waiting for someone to honk behind me.

[Vic1947]

Pulled the engine and transmission and set them aside for the moment. The natural extension of the work I've been doing on the floor and tunnel is the firewall. I want a nice smooth surface in place of the OEM firewall, so it had to go. Before making any cuts, I had to mockup the FR microsteer column and get some measurements for where the column shaft would pass through the firewall. Sketched it out so I'd have a better chance of remembering the numbers - assuming I can find the sketch later on.

Then it was time to make some cuts. I used 3/4 tape to mark the edges and between the Sawsall and the metal wheel of death, I got the main area out. The new panel will overlap the existing edges and I'll use panel adhesive and SS rivets to attach it. Once the adhesive is set, I'll use a spotweld cutter to remove the rivet heads. Along the way, I'll have to build a recess where the brake/clutch pedal assembly goes. Even with the compact Wilwood brake M/C's it will be a tight fit since the back of the heads are so close to the f/w.

Of course, there were couple of places where I have to build out the edge where the new panel attaches. No big deal - just a bit time consuming. Hope to have the new f/w installed in a few days.

[jaros44sr]

Awesome work looks like streering shaft lined up pretty good

Got to play with the 3M 08115, thanks for tips

Actually viscouty dang spell check, was rather thin

image by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Got to play with the 3M 08115, thanks for tips

Actually, viscosity dang spell check, was rather thin

Glad it worked out for you. It's there forever with no distortion. Plus, you can grind it smooth, do bodywork and paint over it if you so desire. It may have been thin if the cartridge is new. I know when a cartridge I've opened then resealed sits for a long time, it comes out thicker. Still works well, though.