HEI in 283?

[RTHarvey]

I have a 67 C10 with a 283. It's not the original 283, but it looks to be mostly original configuration, except for an Edelbrock intake and 500cfm 4-brl. Is there any reason that makes it not possible to put in an HEI distributor? Good idea? Bad idea? pros? cons? Any particular brand?
Thaks for any advice

[jocko]

You can install an HEI on your 283. Recommend browse around on here for all the installation tips folks have provided over the years - things like full 12V, etc.
HEIs are a good idea because they eliminate the points (and therefore point wear, need to change/adjust every once in a while, etc) and are reliable (although I'd avoid overseas-made new ones - the best ones are the original GM HEIs - and some very reputable, but sometimes pricey, new U.S. made HEIs). The only con is non-original appearance. If that matters to you, you may want to consider a pertronix unit that also eliminates the points but fits under your current distributor cap.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Why not? HEI will fit any SBC V8.

[Steeveedee]

Same distributor fits big blocks, too. When the 305 I had in my '68 Skylark finally died, I went back to Buick power, and put that very distributor in my truck. There are some very early Corvettes ('50s) that I hear tell took a distributor with a longer driveshaft, but I've never seen one.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

On some model trucks there are clearance problems with the firewall or air filter. Your 67 C10 is not one of them. I agree the factory HEI is the best one to use. They are easy to rebuild and clean up. If you replace any electronic parts use original equipment or name brands.

George

[KQQL IT]

Blob of cam break in lube on the gear wouldn't hurt

[mr48chev]

One thing you want to do is get the correct plug and gauge wire to connect the power wire to the HEI. While a female slide terminal will work, it will also come loose enough for the engine to stall at very inopportune times. Mine on my 71 usually chose 3:30 in the morning in the rain on the way to work.

I hooked my power feed to the hei to the IGN Unfused pin on the fuse block. That is hot any time you have the key on or when cranking with a full; 12 volts. I just taped the ends of the original ignition wire folded it up and tucked it away with a couple of zip ties to the near by wiring harness. No fuss and if I ever decide to go back to points the wiring is all there.

This is the fuse block and you can see the correct pin (s) to plug into. That way nothing is cut, nothing is disturbed and all is good.


On the 71 I picked up far quicker startup especially in cold weather and 2mpg that doesn't sound like a lot but when you go from 10 to 12 that is a big percentage.

[72SB]

You could just put in a Pertronix module in the stock distributor. What I did.

You need to run a #10 gauge stranded copper wire from IGN tap on fusr block to + coil and just tape back into wire loom the white braided resistance wire that was stock to + coil so it gets full 12vdc

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by 72SB

You could just put in a Pertronix module in the stock distributor. What I did.

You need to run a #10 gauge stranded copper wire from IGN tap on fusr block to + coil and just tape back into wire loom the white braided resistance wire that was stock to + coil so it gets full 12vdc

A 12 gauge wire is sufficient, and what GM used as stock on HEI setups in later years (pink in color).

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

A 12 gauge wire is sufficient, and what GM used as stock on HEI setups in later years (pink in color).

Yep. I installed my GM HEI sometime in the 1980s with a 12 ga. power wire and it works fine.

[jamyers]

HEI's are Great!

One thing to be aware of though, is the ignition's centrifugal advance curve. There are a zillion different center-plates and weights out there, so whether you get a GM or a chinese unit, you'll really really really want to check out what it's advance curve looks like, and more than likely modify it to suit. It's not hard to do, but takes some learning and effort.

Edit: Also, be *SURE* there is good heat-sink paste under the module, and know that as long as you have a spare module in the glovebox it will never fail - but if you don't...say hello to the 3am gremlin.

[67C10Step]

Absolutely possible. My truck has its original 283. I took the original resistor wire out of the terminal block and made up a totally new 12 gauge wire to the new distributor and then wrapped all the wiring to keep a factory look. Been about three years and a little over 3000 miles. I keep a spare module and tools in my tool bag though.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by 72SB

You could just put in a Pertronix module in the stock distributor. What I did.

You need to run a #10 gauge stranded copper wire from IGN tap on fusr block to + coil and just tape back into wire loom the white braided resistance wire that was stock to + coil so it gets full 12vdc

Those tend to work great when they work but the real issue is if they fail you had best have the parts to put the points and condenser back in in the glove box along with the tools. On broke down on the side of the road issues on the HAMB Pertroinix failures rival and may out do stock generator failures on the road. Then you are stuck because few parts houses stock replacement parts. The main cause of failure seems to be not following Pertronix instructions to the letter and not using the parts they say to use in an attempt to cut a corner price wise.

Hei distributors are big and ugly but good oem ones seldom fail and if they do you can find parts at any parts house and go again.

I've been an advocate of as far as parts that commonly might fail that you can remove and replace and go again it is best to use parts that you can find at just about any parts house or wrecking yard.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Those tend to work great when they work but the real issue is if they fail you had best have the parts to put the points and condenser back in in the glove box along with the tools. On broke down on the side of the road issues on the HAMB Pertroinix failures rival and may out do stock generator failures on the road. Then you are stuck because few parts houses stock replacement parts. The main cause of failure seems to be not following Pertronix instructions to the letter and not using the parts they say to use in an attempt to cut a corner price wise.

Hei distributors are big and ugly but good oem ones seldom fail and if they do you can find parts at any parts house and go again.

I've been an advocate of as far as parts that commonly might fail that you can remove and replace and go again it is best to use parts that you can find at just about any parts house or wrecking yard.

I ran a Pertronix Ignitor II [and Flamethrower II Coil -- and followed all mfr's install protocols] for five or seven years.
292 L6/SM465/12 BOLT 3.73 W/ Eaton posi. in a '68 shortbed Stepside half ton.
Ran fine for a while, but then, whenever my RPMs got over 3000 [when the Ignitor II was supposed to bump UP the voltage] the ignition would cut off completely. That left me on the freeway deadmilling until I could turn ignition Off, then On and pop the clutch in 4th or 3rd. Often the guy behind me would wonder why I was suddenly stalling and get P-O'ed at me.

My Pertronix gear was out of warranty, but the company Techline guy said to send it in and they'd get back to me about why it failed.
I wound up going back to Points for about a year until I tried a chinese HEI from Assault Racing. Their module was dead in the box. I got screwed by Ebay. But I left a scathing review. They changed thier name. I found another L6 HEI and was careful to outfit it with high end American components.

I do keep a known-good HEI module and the White heat sink grease in my glove box. Once, my truck cut out on me on a hot July night. I coasted around the corner and parked on the curb, and called Roadside Rescue. About 90 minutes the girl on the hotline said. With nothing better to do until the Hook showed up, I tried R&R'ing the Module. Flashlight in my teeth, and a screwdriver for the distributor, I pulled the cap off, unplugged the dead module, smeared the white stuff down generously and connected the new module, then buttoned it all back up. Still sceptical I was delightfully surprized when my L6 started right up. I called the girl back and cancelled the hook. And I'm still waiting for support from Pertronix.

Great for Grandpa's Car Show Antique, so he doesn't have to clunk his way to the 4th of July parade every year. No good for daily drivers.

Go GM HEI.

[RTHarvey]

Thanks to all for the advice and comments. Sounds like a not-too-difficult task.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Yep. I installed my GM HEI sometime in the 1980s with a 12 ga. power wire and it works fine.

Yes, a 12 gauge wire is all you need to handle the current. If you do the math, an HEI could draw 20 amps or more, but its does so for a few milliseconds at a time, if that long. If you use a current clamp to measure average current with the engine running, you'll probably see around 4-5 amps. Seems like I've also seen the current spec'd as 7-9 amps. Maybe that's a function of the coil and module?

A 10 gauge wire can't hurt anything, it's just a bit bulky. And it doesn't really make sense if you have OE wiring, because the fuse panel is fed by a 12 gauge wire. GM was doing a great job saving pennies!

[72SB]

The most common error people do installing Pertronix module is not set the gap correctly...which is why the various size (thick) washers are included in kit. Otherwise, for me, they have not been a problem. I have had them in every points car, Ford or Chevy I have had for decades. Was going to put one in my 72 I6 but it already had one when I pulled the cap.

Pertronix or HEI, carry a spare module

The MSD 8360 distributor is also a good option.

[Shifty One]

Originally Posted by 72SB

Pertronix or HEI, carry a spare module

Wise advice....I also carry the little distributor brush/spring taped to it.

[RichardJ]

Do the Math?

What Math? Ohm's law does not apply for an Inductor. Close, but no cigar.
Ohm's law says, V = R x I . Voltage = Resistance x Current.

Resistance measured in Ohms and Current represented by the letter I is measured in Amps.

The 1st image below is similar, BUT an Inductor represented by the letter L is measured in Henries and the current is represented by delta I divided by delta t.
That means change in current divided by change in time. Time is a very important part of every part of a ignition event and is measured in Milliseconds.

I used the image below to show the formula for current through an Inductor, because ASCII Symbols are a pain.

This is how Henries are measured.
One Henry is also equal to: Joule/Ampere2, Ohm-Second, and Weber/Ampere.

Right, what ever that means.

People use an Ohm meter on a inductor (Coil), because they can't measure Henries. It is useful to identify one coil from another, but beyond that it is worthless.

Insert a analog Ammeter in the circuit between the GM HEI and the wire you are using to power it and you will get a reading of about 2 Amps.

2 Amps


""Voltage Leads Current through an Inductor ""

Simply put. When you apply a voltage to a coil, the magnetic field that is building, opposes the flow of current through the wire. By the time current reaches its maximum, less than 3 milliseconds, dwell has ended, the plug fires and then it starts all over again.

Everybody likes GM HEI's, GM used 14 gauge wire for the HEI. Why all this silliness about a 12 or 10 gauge wire.


The Hot when running circuits in the fuse box are powered by a Pink 12 gauge wire from the ignition switch.
When running, that P12 wire is carrying the current for the radio, wiper motor, heater fan, dash lights, fuel gauge and what ever else I forgot.
Adding the HEI load to the fuse box is just adding more load to the Pink 12 than it was already carrying.

IF THE 12 PINK IS BIG ENOUGH TO SUPPLY THE FUSE BOX PLUS THE HEI, WHY DO YOU NEED 12 GAUGE TO SUPPLY THE HEI BY ITSELF?

Using a 10 gauge for a HEI is interesting. You've heard of a weakest link? A 10 gauge wire for HEI is the opposite. The entire truck will burn to the ground before that 10 gauge would suffer any damage what so ever.

The Pink 12 actually splits off before the fusebox and goes to the bulkhead connector, where it supplies power to the ballast resistor for the stock ignition.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

Do the Math?

What Math? Ohm's law does not apply for an Inductor. Close, but no cigar.
Ohm's law says, V = R x I . Voltage = Resistance x Current.

Obviously someone working with or designing electronic circuits, like radios and radars, needs to understand inductive and capacitive reactance. I still remember ELI the ICE man.

But they're not really significant when it comes to measuring DC current through a HEI feed wire.

"Close, but no cigar", huh? We don't see too many dismissive comments like that here.