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Old 04-18-2016, 12:27 AM   #1
joeydurango
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Removing left-upper 4x4 ball joint without removing steering arm?

Doing ball joints (and bearings, and hub/spindle seals, and axle shaft seals, and on ad nauseum) on my K10. First time at this, but no problems... until I got to the last ball joint, the driver-side upper. The tool doesn't fit between the steering arm and the ball joint, so the steering arm has to come off. So far, that ain't happenin'. I have tried copious amounts of PB Blaster (otherwise known as the brain-cell killer), SeeTen's socket trick, and of course a BFH.

So I began thinking (always dangerous, I know) - work smarter, not harder. Instead of beating the crap out of the steering arm with a sledge, how else could I press out the joint? The immediate and easiest idea is to modify the receiving tube on the press to be a "C" shape, cut out where the steering arm is in the way. But that leaves me with a very expensive adapter kit that I'd prefer to return to Autozone.

I wondered if any of you have ever come up with a good solution. Removing the steering arm just to press out a ball joint seems like a waste of time and energy. All you really need is some strong, U-shaped piece of metal to act as a partial receiver tube for the joint. I'll keep working on a (cheap) method, but if anyone's got an idea or done this before, say the word.
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1972 K10 Cheyenne Super | LWB, fleetside | 350/350/205 | KEEPER
1971 K10 Cheyenne | SWB, fleetside | LS Swap 5.3/4L60 | SOLD
1976 Trans Am | 400/4-spd | SOLD
1976 Trans Am | 455/4-spd | TOTALED
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:24 AM   #2
special-K
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Re: Removing left-upper 4x4 ball joint without removing steering arm?

I disconnect the tie rod so the knuckle can swing out to where I can hit it with a good swing. Those little cones will work their way up. Just have to get a better smack on it. Heat will also help
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:36 AM   #3
joeydurango
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Re: Removing left-upper 4x4 ball joint without removing steering arm?

Well, unfortunately I already removed the knuckle from the truck. Didn't think about having to remove the steering arm until I went to press out the joint. Good thing is I can clamp it in my vice... the bad thing is that I can then destroy my bench hammering on the part clamped in the vice.
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1972 K10 Cheyenne Super | LWB, fleetside | 350/350/205 | KEEPER
1971 K10 Cheyenne | SWB, fleetside | LS Swap 5.3/4L60 | SOLD
1976 Trans Am | 400/4-spd | SOLD
1976 Trans Am | 455/4-spd | TOTALED
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:55 PM   #4
joeydurango
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Re: Removing left-upper 4x4 ball joint without removing steering arm?

Well, I did it. For anyone searching for this same thing in the future: Go to the hardware store, and buy a 2" galvanized pipe nipple 3-4" long. Four bucks and that's all you need, and it is the right inner diameter to accept the ball joint. Put the nipple in the vice, take a hacksaw to it, ending up with a "C" shape. Mark it first so you take off only what's needed where the steering arm is too close to the joint to fit a tool. Then use the new C you just made with a press and presto! Super easy, way easier than fighting with the steering arm. Hope this helps someone later!
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1972 K10 Cheyenne Super | LWB, fleetside | 350/350/205 | KEEPER
1971 K10 Cheyenne | SWB, fleetside | LS Swap 5.3/4L60 | SOLD
1976 Trans Am | 400/4-spd | SOLD
1976 Trans Am | 455/4-spd | TOTALED
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Old Today, 03:55 PM   #5
ohboy321
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Re: Removing left-upper 4x4 ball joint without removing steering arm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeydurango View Post
Well, I did it. For anyone searching for this same thing in the future: Go to the hardware store, and buy a 2" galvanized pipe nipple 3-4" long. Four bucks and that's all you need, and it is the right inner diameter to accept the ball joint. Put the nipple in the vice, take a hacksaw to it, ending up with a "C" shape. Mark it first so you take off only what's needed where the steering arm is too close to the joint to fit a tool. Then use the new C you just made with a press and presto! Super easy, way easier than fighting with the steering arm. Hope this helps someone later!
Thank you joeydurango for a great idea. I was using heat and a big hammer and was not making any progress getting the steering arm off. I briefly considered grinding a piece out of my new less than 24 hrs old ball joint tool, but decided to search the forum for any suggestions instead.

With inflation the 2" x 4" nipple costs me $6.98, almost double what you paid 8 years ago. Worth every penny. I used a cut off wheel to make the cuts needed.
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