Removing left-upper 4x4 ball joint without removing steering arm?

[joeydurango]

Doing ball joints (and bearings, and hub/spindle seals, and axle shaft seals, and on ad nauseum) on my K10. First time at this, but no problems... until I got to the last ball joint, the driver-side upper. The tool doesn't fit between the steering arm and the ball joint, so the steering arm has to come off. So far, that ain't happenin'. I have tried copious amounts of PB Blaster (otherwise known as the brain-cell killer), SeeTen's socket trick, and of course a BFH.

So I began thinking (always dangerous, I know) - work smarter, not harder. Instead of beating the crap out of the steering arm with a sledge, how else could I press out the joint? The immediate and easiest idea is to modify the receiving tube on the press to be a "C" shape, cut out where the steering arm is in the way. But that leaves me with a very expensive adapter kit that I'd prefer to return to Autozone.

I wondered if any of you have ever come up with a good solution. Removing the steering arm just to press out a ball joint seems like a waste of time and energy. All you really need is some strong, U-shaped piece of metal to act as a partial receiver tube for the joint. I'll keep working on a (cheap) method, but if anyone's got an idea or done this before, say the word.

[special-K]

I disconnect the tie rod so the knuckle can swing out to where I can hit it with a good swing. Those little cones will work their way up. Just have to get a better smack on it. Heat will also help

[joeydurango]

Well, unfortunately I already removed the knuckle from the truck. Didn't think about having to remove the steering arm until I went to press out the joint. Good thing is I can clamp it in my vice... the bad thing is that I can then destroy my bench hammering on the part clamped in the vice.

[joeydurango]

Well, I did it. For anyone searching for this same thing in the future: Go to the hardware store, and buy a 2" galvanized pipe nipple 3-4" long. Four bucks and that's all you need, and it is the right inner diameter to accept the ball joint. Put the nipple in the vice, take a hacksaw to it, ending up with a "C" shape. Mark it first so you take off only what's needed where the steering arm is too close to the joint to fit a tool. Then use the new C you just made with a press and presto! Super easy, way easier than fighting with the steering arm. Hope this helps someone later!

[ohboy321]

Originally Posted by joeydurango

Well, I did it. For anyone searching for this same thing in the future: Go to the hardware store, and buy a 2" galvanized pipe nipple 3-4" long. Four bucks and that's all you need, and it is the right inner diameter to accept the ball joint. Put the nipple in the vice, take a hacksaw to it, ending up with a "C" shape. Mark it first so you take off only what's needed where the steering arm is too close to the joint to fit a tool. Then use the new C you just made with a press and presto! Super easy, way easier than fighting with the steering arm. Hope this helps someone later!

Thank you joeydurango for a great idea. I was using heat and a big hammer and was not making any progress getting the steering arm off. I briefly considered grinding a piece out of my new less than 24 hrs old ball joint tool, but decided to search the forum for any suggestions instead.

With inflation the 2" x 4" nipple costs me $6.98, almost double what you paid 8 years ago. Worth every penny. I used a cut off wheel to make the cuts needed.

[1970cstblazer]

I recently did this job on my 1970 Blazer, and rented the Autozone ball joint tool. I was able to remove and replace the LH upper ball joint without removing the arm, damage to the tool, or resorting to making tools. I don't remember any drama. The knuckle was a dry Arizona part, so it came apart super easy. I used NOS GM ball joints, and it went back together effortlessly.