65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks good from my screen. How much head-room are you getting?

Did you do the 'elbow' test (elbow on the door frame w/the window down)? That is usually a fair indicator of placement for automotive ergonomics.

Seems like plenty of headroom - a full hand width between the top of my noggin and the roof. Of course, the headliner will reduce that some. I'll have to hang a door for a more accurate test but using the "air door" technique, it seems fine. My problem with these older model cars are the traffic signals. I end up hunching down and leaning forward to see if the light is still red. Or, at my age, waiting for someone to honk behind me.

[Vic1947]

Pulled the engine and transmission and set them aside for the moment. The natural extension of the work I've been doing on the floor and tunnel is the firewall. I want a nice smooth surface in place of the OEM firewall, so it had to go. Before making any cuts, I had to mockup the FR microsteer column and get some measurements for where the column shaft would pass through the firewall. Sketched it out so I'd have a better chance of remembering the numbers - assuming I can find the sketch later on.

Then it was time to make some cuts. I used 3/4 tape to mark the edges and between the Sawsall and the metal wheel of death, I got the main area out. The new panel will overlap the existing edges and I'll use panel adhesive and SS rivets to attach it. Once the adhesive is set, I'll use a spotweld cutter to remove the rivet heads. Along the way, I'll have to build a recess where the brake/clutch pedal assembly goes. Even with the compact Wilwood brake M/C's it will be a tight fit since the back of the heads are so close to the f/w.

Of course, there were couple of places where I have to build out the edge where the new panel attaches. No big deal - just a bit time consuming. Hope to have the new f/w installed in a few days.

[jaros44sr]

Awesome work looks like streering shaft lined up pretty good

Got to play with the 3M 08115, thanks for tips

Actually viscouty dang spell check, was rather thin

image by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Got to play with the 3M 08115, thanks for tips

Actually, viscosity dang spell check, was rather thin

Glad it worked out for you. It's there forever with no distortion. Plus, you can grind it smooth, do bodywork and paint over it if you so desire. It may have been thin if the cartridge is new. I know when a cartridge I've opened then resealed sits for a long time, it comes out thicker. Still works well, though.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Glad it worked out for you. It's there forever with no distortion. Plus, you can grind it smooth, do bodywork and paint over it if you so desire. It may have been thin if the cartridge is new. I know when a cartridge I've opened then resealed sits for a long time, it comes out thicker. Still works well, though.

What did you use for clean up?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

What did you use for clean up?

I use lacquer thinner. I use it for cleaning a lot of stuff, so I keep a 5-gallon pail handy.

[Vic1947]

The new firewall is roughed in. Now comes the tedious part - recessing an area for the brake/clutch pedal assembly, mounting the gas pedal, attaching the front of the tunnel to the f/w, installing the steering column and making some decorative panels to simulate bead rolling. The material I used is 14 gauge and way too heavy for my low buck roller, so I had to come up with an alternative.

You can see how I approached making the basic panel. I added flanges where necessary to fill in where I cut the OEM panel. I then laid the OEM panel I'd removed on top of the flat stock and carefully traced around it. Then I added 3/4 tape all around the Sharpie line. I cut along the tape edge and then made many trips to the bandsaw and belt sander to get it to fit. As I mentioned before, I'll use panel adhesive and SS rivets when it's time for final assembly. Between adhesive and Bondo, the few gaps around the edge will disappear.

The inner fenderwell panels where I removed the shock towers should look good with the new firewall. They'll also get the faux bead roller treatment.