full front floor replacement

[Cody3282]

Does anybody have a guide showing how they replaced the entire front floor (including the step up) of a blazer? I'm curious how this ties into the B-pillar. This full floor has all the braces included as well. Do I need to remove the rear door pillar and replace it after the floor is in? Most of the B pillar is in pretty good shape just trying to figure out how to tie it in. I've seen the posts by lks_dcvn and those are great info. Just doesn't quite show how step up part ties in with he door pillar piece. Any body on here do the full floor replacement?

Do any vendors on here sell the full floor with the step up? Looks like a nice way to avoid some welding and grinding.

And it looks like the floor replacement has a 90 degree angle at the top of the step up and the existing cargo floor has a 90 degree where they sit together. Is it easy to get to replacement piece up under the existing cargo angle?

I don't have the replacement floor yet but I'm just trying to plan it out for once its here.

Thank you!

Cody

[Cody3282]

Or would I be better off not getting a new floor with the step up and just welding that in? What's easier?

[litebulblsc]

I will tell you it is a pain in the behind to do.

The cab floor is what the cowl and cargo floor sit down on, so you need to disassemble alot to get it in there

[Cody3282]

Damn. Well I have the front of the cab floor detached from where it welds in at the lower cowl. So it's just a matter of getting it out at the step-up now. Just don't know if I should keep the current step or buy the floor with the step already welded in.

Does anybody know if the floor with the built in step-up had to be welded in the back or is it just seam sealer and those 9+ bolts?

[litebulblsc]

I saw some sites with that picture say the step up plate is not included. But if it is as pictured, it should be spot welded on.

That assembly also shows the passenger seat mounting plate installed, which I do not believe is available seperatly. And the the floor support triangles at the floor-rocker-stepup plate junction.

[jaros44sr]

You’re at the point where you should consider bracing. I went with patch panels

If you have a hardtop now would be a good time to install it

You loose all structural stability

Wish mine looked that good mine was rusted up into ‘B’ post stay below spot welds on the b post it’s double layered

image by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

[Cody3282]

Originally Posted by litebulblsc

I saw some sites with that picture say the step up plate is not included. But if it is as pictured, it should be spot welded on.

That assembly also shows the passenger seat mounting plate installed, which I do not believe is available seperatly. And the the floor support triangles at the floor-rocker-stepup plate junction.

Yeah, seen that GMC Pauls shows that it doesn't come with the step up portion. Looks like there are some others that do come with it.

[Cody3282]

[quote=jaros44sr;9343457]You’re at the point where you should consider bracing. I went with patch panels

If you have a hardtop now would be a good time to install it

You loose all structural stability

Wish mine looked that good mine was rusted up into ‘B’ post stay below spot welds on the b post it’s double layered

image by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06[/quote]

Thanks for that pic. I will use it to compare to mine. Ive been you on lots of different threads and your info is awesome!

I planned on patching but then somebody convinced me to just do the whole floor. I will work on bracing the door opening. Just wanna make sure I can get the floor in there when I'm ready. Fiberglasss top is installed. Body mounts have been replaced. So I think I'm starting in a good spot.

Thanks guys!

[Cody3282]

edit

[litebulblsc]

You will not be able to do the whole floor with the body braced and on the frame.

Step up plate extends all way into the b pillar to the outer bedside skin.

[Cody3282]

This where I'm at right now. I don't need the step up replaced. I just wasn't sure if it would be easier to do it all at once. Looks like maybe going with the one from GMC Pauls without the step up might be an easier install. Just some extra spot welds and grinding.

[litebulblsc]

If you look closely, the bedsides (b pillar) and the whole cowl (a pillar) are on top of the cab floor. I had cut the cowl loose at that seam and removed everything back. And it was still hard to get the floor under the cowl while on the frame.

[Cody3282]

Do you think if the kick panels were trimmed up off the cab floor and the door pillar at the B pillar was trimmed up (like in this picture) that it would leave enough room for a floor (without the stepup panel) to slide in?

[lks dcvn]

Cody - welcome to the forum and to restoring your Blazer. Looks like you are off to a great start.

Good news - your floors appear in pretty good shape overall with common rust in the outer floors. As others have noted replacing the entire floor in one piece is rather invasive as you need to do a bit more work to get things out of the way, lined up, and then put back in the right order so everything lines up again. It CAN be done - it's just a bit more work.

I'm not sure how much you know about these trucks - so I will note that you have come to the right spot as there are many people who have spent years on their restoration and have a wealth of knowledge to share here.

Can you share what you have done so far? Looks like some work has started on the inner/lower quarter on the B-pillar.

Observations from the pictures you posted:

• appears you have new body mounts/shims - that's the right move
• top is on the truck - unsure if bolted on or not (now would be the time to bolt it on if it isn't)
• torsion boxes are gone - not good - these retain the integrity of the body and especially when the top is off

A few questions to help guide on next steps (to prevent re-work and guide you on next steps)

• What is your ultimate goal for the blazer? daily, trail rig, don't know yet, etc. Use this as your guide for how far you want to take the restoration.
• Do you have the doors that you plan to use after the rust if fixed? Hang those now and see how they line up with the front fender/rear quarter. Adjust the shims to get everything opening/closing without sticking.
• How did the doors open/close on the truck before you started working on it? Did they ever stick?
• Has the top ever been off since you have owned it? Any idea of the last time it was removed?
• What condition are the door hinges in? if they are old/sagging - now is the time to repair/restore them
• How are you at welding? The good news is most of the repairs you would be doing via welding would be covered by carpet if you go that route, but you WANT them to be good welds that penetrate and HOLD your blazer together.

Advice:

• Take some more pictures of the rust spots - all of them (front floors, kick panels, underside of truck, rear quarters, rear floor at tailgate, around rear wheel wells, etc.) and post them up here. We can then help guide on where to go next. The fact that you have most of your B-pillar metal intact is a good sign although when these trucks get parked in the elements - the water flows to the lowest spots and can rust in odd spots.
• Based on your pictures posted so far - I would resist the temptation to replace the entire floor with a 1-piece unit as most of your floor looks fairly solid. This does add more complexity to your restoration though as you would likely need to create a list of patch panels needed.

Restoring these has become much easier every year as more and more parts are available to 'save' them. Everything can be restored with money and time.

[jaros44sr]

^^^^^
Sage advise, well written

I forgot to mention body mounts as noted above

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Cody3282

Do you think if the kick panels were trimmed up off the cab floor and the door pillar at the B pillar was trimmed up (like in this picture) that it would leave enough room for a floor (without the stepup panel) to slide in?

Find the spot welds and stay below them

The step up hides behind B post

Page 5 on my build

[Cody3282]

@lks_dcvn VERY nice to hear from you on this post. Your bullet build I where I have gotten most of my info from. I think I've read through every post a few times. lol.

California blazer and I THINK it was always from around here but not 100% certain.

So far what I have done since owning the blazer:
-Remove 2 fuel tanks that a PO installed where the torsion boxes are supposed to be. That's also why I started working on that patch on the bedside.
-Bolted down the top.
-Changed body mounts and rad core supports. (not sure what they are all supposed to be torqued to).
-started removing paint and filler to see what I'm actually working with on the panels.
-wired, rust convertor, spray paint on B pillar insides.

Then I was told my somebody on this forum that I should replace the whole floor and it sounded like a good idea so I didn't have to do the welding of the front support, outer floor/inner rocker, rear triangle support, etc. These new floors have everything included so it seemed like it would be easier to do all that at once. So I recently started cutting up my current floor at the front seam...

I do have most of the replacement parts for both sides already.
-torsion boxes
-outer floor/inner rocker (needs to be modified for a blazer. Not sure what exactly)
-outer rocker
-rocker box reinforcement plate
-torsion box end cap
-kick panel
-front floor support
-also have passenger side bottom of A pillar.
Might need to do the b pillar door face as well.
And I will need to do the windshield header as well.

If I decided to do the full floor, only the front cab supports and outer floors wouldn't be used to not too much.

Doors and hinges seem to be in pretty good shape. Got a patch that I will need to do in the corner of one door. Gaps look pretty good although I will need to get the door flushed with the rear quarter panel.

Top has not been off since I owned it but it also wasn't bolted on very well.

Goal for this blazer in the short terms to get all the safety issues fixed and then just drive in around for a bit before taking the body off the frame and making it nice. It runs right now so I don't really wanna take it all the way apart yet.

Welding is ok. No experience before tis but Ive been practicing on scrap piece a bit and can get to spot welds pretty good. Just gotta go slow enough that I don't warp the metal.

Thanks for all your help

[Cody3282]

More pics of that I'm working with.

[Cody3282]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Find the spot welds and stay below them

The step up hides behind B post

Page 5 on my build

Awesome! I have also looked at your build page a ton! I will check out page 5 right now. Thanks jaros!

[jaros44sr]

Nice start as I see it that’s all patches

[Cody3282]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Find the spot welds and stay below them

The step up hides behind B post

Page 5 on my build

When you say to find the spot welds, are you referring to the kick panel or the inner door panel on the b pillar?

Seems like if I got a new floor without the step up panel, that it would kinda just drop in if I trim up the kick panel and the B pillar panel a little ways. Is that not the case?

[litebulblsc]

Originally Posted by Cody3282

When you say to find the spot welds, are you referring to the kick panel or the inner door panel on the b pillar?

Seems like if I got a new floor without the step up panel, that it would kinda just drop in if I trim up the kick panel and the B pillar panel a little ways. Is that not the case?

Inside the door jam, the b pillar is spot welded to the step up plate.

Look how far up the floor goes to the firewall flange. You would have to cut your a pillar off that high to slide the floor in from the side

[Cody3282]

Ok, that makes sense. Thanks man!

[jaros44sr]

I found this tool invaluable for removing spot welds, still have to dril, but separates metal without ripping

Found it in a aeromotive. Catalog

I have an extra if you need it

image by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

Make sure you get the correct outrigger, there are slip on and full units

[lks dcvn]

Ok - some good information here - thanks for sharing. I'll lay out what I would do in your scenario given you already have most of the patch panels purchased and have access to some of the areas normally more challenging to work with the torsion boxes on (rear of the a-pillar, underside of outer floor, etc.).

You are in a really good spot right now to repair the rust with the stuff you have and not invest more money and get back to driving/enjoying the truck sooner than later. Why am I saying this? If you intend (in the future) to do a more extensive restoration - leave the full floor (and maybe full body swap) for that time. Sounds like you want to fix the major stuff and drive the truck while you work up to the next phase of restoration.

Advice on what I would do from here:

• don't cut out any more metal
• gather as much insight as you can about how these trucks fit together and things to consider when you need to put them back together. I've lost track of the number of videos I've watched to see methods other people use to restore C10s and Blazers/Jimmys. I'll post up a few links below to get you started and a few of the content creators are on this site.
• I approach the rust repair work from the inside out to fix the rust - front floor, floor support, kick panel, outer floor, torsion box, ending with the outer rocker and door alignment

Videos I have watched several times to learn how to fit panels, etc.

• Ebfabman - link to outer bed skin repair
• Don Walters - link to inner rocker fix
• Don Walters - all videos he has on Blazer rust repair and restoration
• Metal Massacre Fab Shop - front floor patch panel
• MAYCO Custom Restorations - Lots of great videos on rocker, cab corner, a-pillar repairs - super helpful insights on using aftermarket patch panels and things to think about as you get started
• Make It Kustom - aftermarket panel alignment on a Blazer - things to consider
• Fitzee's Fabrications - butt welding made easy - how to plan ahead to make your panel prep and welding a LOT easier
• Fulton's Garage - one of many videos that shows the rust repair of his 72 blazer step by step
• paulk_c10 - floor and inner rocker
• paulk_c10 - outer floor, inner rocker - another vid - good overview of what to expect for aftermarket patch panels - he has more in his channel as well
• el fabricator - overview of the work needed to replace the metal over the windshield