Removal of heater box without removing the inner fender on a 67-72 C10?

[HeavyHauler]

I am going to change the heater core in my 1968 C10 and I am wondering if I can remove the heater core box without removing the inner fender or the hood hinge on that side?

['68OrangeSunshine]

I've always had to pull 4 or 5 bolts from the back of the Fender Skirt to bend it out of the way.

[HO455]

You don't have to remove the inner fender but you do have to remove all of the bolts aft of the wheel center line and loose the rest.

On most trucks you can remove the back bolts on the hinge and after loosening the front bolt raise the back of the hinge for clearance.

There's also the hack method a PO used on my Burban. They cut the end of the heater box off, replaced the core and silicone it back together. I don't recommend using that method.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by HO455

You don't have to remove the inner fender but you do have to remove all of the bolts aft of the wheel center line and loose the rest.

On most trucks you can remove the back bolts on the hinge and after loosening the front bolt raise the back of the hinge for clearance.

There's also the hack method a PO used on my Burban. They cut the end of the heater box off, replaced the core and silicone it back together. I don't recommend using that method.

Points for PO Originality!

['68OrangeSunshine]

I paid a Radiator guy to solder my heater core end nozzles back on. They had gotten loose from wrestling the hoses off. He did a very neat job.
Then I was installing the heater core in the fiberglass housing. I used a power drill to shoot the screws on. I dropped one of the original screws -- couldn't find it -- so I got a 1'' drywall screw and shot that in. Put it all back together.
And it leaked!?
The drywall screw was sharp and had pierced the brass tank end.
I had to start all over again. Luckily, I found another tank I 'd squirreled away in the depths of White Fang and forgotten.

[HeavyHauler]

Awesome guys. I will start working on it today and I appreciate the tips! In looking at my inner fender bolts I dont think they have ever been removed before so it is probably going to be difficult taking them out.

It seems some of them toward the rear I will not be able to get some penetrating oil on the backside of the bolts. Maybe put some heat to them.

[dmjlambert]

On my 1969 truck the inner fender bolts were challenging and took a couple hours of work for each side, because the U-nuts were rusted severely, and most would spin. I was able to get to every U-nut and hold it with pliers, except the nut at the topmost part of the arch. For that bolt I loosened it with an air impact wrench on the bolt, then wrapped a rag around a hacksaw blade to hold the blade in my hand, and inserted the blade and cut the bolt head off. I installed all new U-nuts. It took patience, but I'm glad I can take the inner fenders off any time I want now, without much of a fuss. I have taken them off a couple times to work on A/C, heat, suspension, brakes, and steering.

[54blackhornet]

Originally Posted by HO455

You don't have to remove the inner fender but you do have to remove all of the bolts aft of the wheel center line and loose the rest.

On most trucks you can remove the back bolts on the hinge and after loosening the front bolt raise the back of the hinge for clearance.

There's also the hack method a PO used on my Burban. They cut the end of the heater box off, replaced the core and silicone it back together. I don't recommend using that method.

The factory could have done similar and saved everyone a lot of misery.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

The factory could have done similar and saved everyone a lot of misery.

Miserable trying to replace a Heater Core? Ash tray filled up?
Don't mess with that --
Come on down to Honest Happy Hal's Chevrolet and trade that beast in on a shiny, new Squarebody!

[franken]

The key to getting bolts with clip nuts off is loosen just a little, tighten, repeat. Otherwise the rust jams the threads and the nuts break and spin.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Funny...GM built us a quality product, but two improvements mentioned. A door and seal on the case would have been great, and the phosphate process for the hardware along the wells left lots to be desired. They don't stand a chance under anything beyond clean and dry.

In topic area, that lower hood hinge bolt on the RH fender is a misery. I have all kinds of 9/16", but it's still a PITA with the inner fender assembled.

[54blackhornet]

I visited a friend yesterday that cut a hole in his surburban floor to get at the in tank fuel pump. Same thing with our heater cores. Ya let’s not make anything easy for our customers.

[jumpsoffrock]

I was able to access the bolt by using a 1/4 drive extension with a socket at the end. When reassembling I cut a hole in the fender liner. If it's not a points-winning show truck, it doesn't matter to me.

[1970cstblazer]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Funny...GM built us a quality product, but two improvements mentioned. A door and seal on the case would have been great, and the phosphate process for the hardware along the wells left lots to be desired. They don't stand a chance under anything beyond clean and dry.

I agree that this generation GM truck was the gold standard of the day, as many are still existing, working, and being enjoyed. They are as simple as an anvil, and just as useful and durable.

As with anything, things could have been improved upon. Paint and steel quality could have been better, since the single biggest issue with these vehicles is body rot. Back then, the general publics expectations on vehicle life was not as demanding as it is today. Typically 80k miles and 7 years, they hit the junkyards, especially in the rust belt.

My Blazer fell into this. At 54k miles and 8 years, it was retired and sat for 9 years until it was gifted to me.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

I visited a friend yesterday that cut a hole in his surburban floor to get at the in tank fuel pump. Same thing with our heater cores. Ya let’s not make anything easy for our customers.

I've been tempted to try the same operation on my '71 GMC Jimmy. Since I bought it in 1995, the Fuel Sender wire has been dead. [The whole Dashboard was dead. No Speedo either] I tried a new wire from outside the tank-- no good. I bought a replacement float arm/sender unit from LMC years ago, but there is a huge 1/4'' thick skid plate under the tank, and without a lift and air tools, pulling the 40 or 50 -odd bolts securing it is daunting. As a result, I keep a careful log of odometer readings on trips, and gallons of fuel taken onboard. Assuming a 20 gallon tank, and 10 MPG, I try to top off every 100 miles.
A plunge cut with a cutting blade on an angle grinder, and its shower of sparks, into thin sheetmetal without hitting an active fuel tank is just too chancy.
I'm Chicken and I know it.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by HO455

...There's also the hack method a PO used on my Burban. They cut the end of the heater box off, replaced the core and silicone it back together. I don't recommend using that method.

I watched YouTube videos on that procedure and I think that is just so slick!
Maybe run a vacuum hose with a slit in it around the parameter for a seal and some snap buckles to latch the cover in place.
Problem is my heater core is probably the 55 year old original so it's not subject to frequent replacement.
May never get the opportunity to tinker with that thing but I sure want to.