Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?

[Willshook]

I'm replacing my steering box. When I took the old one off, I was able to just tap the rag joint back and off the splined input shaft.

The new box is in but there's not enough clearance on the steering shaft to get the rag joint on. The new rag joint is about 1/4" thicker overall and that's just enough to make it so I can't get it on.

I push the shaft back but it's hitting a hard stop. Is there any easy way to get more clearance so I can put the rag joint on? Really, really, really don't want to take the box out again.

[RustyPile]

I've seen replacement rag joints that were a bit thicker, but not a 1/4" thicker. Loosen the 2 bolts holding the column under the dash and the clamp at the firewall.. Slide the column up enough to get the clearance you need.

[Willshook]

Thanks, taking a swing at that today. Looks like it's more involved than just the clamp and bracket, but I'll start there.

Otherwise I'll need to pull the box out at least a bit to allow me to slip it over the splines and then move back.

Yeah, I was surprised it was so much bigger - the clamp is the part that's longer...

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Willshook

Thanks, taking a swing at that today. Looks like it's more involved than just the clamp and bracket, but I'll start there.

Otherwise I'll need to pull the box out at least a bit to allow me to slip it over the splines and then move back.

Yeah, I was surprised it was so much bigger - the clamp is the part that's longer...

During my 30+ years, working as a mechanic, I never once had to remove the gear box to replace a simple rag joint.. The way you describe the replacement rag joint, I suspect you have the wrong one.. Check again before to try to install it.

[Willshook]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

During my 30+ years, working as a mechanic, I never once had to remove the gear box to replace a simple rag joint.. The way you describe the replacement rag joint, I suspect you have the wrong one.. Check again before to try to install it.

I haven't done many of these, but the ones I have had been simple. The old one came off with no issues just pushing the shaft back.

I don't think it's the WRONG one, but it may not be a GOOD one. That's the biggest issue these days...lousy parts that don't fit.

This is the part: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LSC-201

If someone has a better part number, I'm all ears. I did look at the OER part for this and it was totally different.

I attached a couple of pics. It's just maybe an 1/8" too tall...but that is just enough to keep it from slipping over the splined shaft. You can kinda see that the clamp is taller - not much, but just a bit. This is what the issue is.

I'm halfway temped to clean up the old one and put it on, but...

[RustyPile]

I'd be more convinced it's an inferior part rather than a wrong part. Your method of measurement is flawed.. The length of those 2 "safety bolts" don't enter into the equation, except they will interfere with installation if they're too long.. Measure from the center of the clamp bolt to the point where the mid shaft flange contacts the joint.. This measurement should be very equal on both parts.

[Willshook]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Your method of measurement is flawed.

The picture is kind of misleading - but the studs are the same length so they're not throwing off the measurement. The clamp height that is the issue as said before.

At this point I'm just going to move the box and get it on - fastest path forward. I can just loosen it enough to slip the coupler over the shaft, then slide the column down. Not excited about it, but there it is