Two completely unrelated questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

cliffsta · 10-10-2004, 05:49 PM

1. Alternator. It's been my thing recently. Any way to differenciate between 63 and 80 while its in the truck? I'm worried when i get my amp for my birthday (480 peak watts, 200 total constant), in addition to the 55 watt fog lamps, that a 63 amp alternator would not be enough. What y'all think?
2.Carburetor rebuild: Realisticly here people, fill me in. I'm considering getting one of those complete rebuild kits for my OE carb, as the general consensus on this forum is it is better to rebuild than chance it on a remanufactured unit. I know my dad and cousin rebuilt the thing a good 13 or 14 years ago, but it probably was just a gasket set. I'm assuming that if i get a complete rebuild kit and we do it right, it should run almost like new? Also, the electric choke is broke and my dad has had a manual choke rigged up. I can replace the electric choke while doing this ya?

*1972C10* · 10-10-2004, 06:05 PM

Just replace the reostat that controls the choke that should fix that...

The carb can be 100% right and it may not some things wear out..

One tip for a q-jet if the area around the accel pump arm is worn cut the end off a starter shim and put it in there.

The alternator needs to run all that but the battery acts like a capacitor so the alt can recover . Most people who put steros in never change the alternators anyhow.

Althou its a really good idea.

cliffsta · 10-10-2004, 07:02 PM

its not a Qjet, its a 2 barrel, Rochester M2MC, on a 305 V8. Guess i shoulda speified that, but good advice on everything else too.

*1972C10* · 10-11-2004, 12:45 AM

Those 2 barrels are pretty hard to mess up put in a new brass float. Im not sure if its has the plastic one or not. Ive got a couple of those carbs if you take something off and cant figure out where it goes back on.

The reostat is the same q-jet or 2 bbl Ive robbed a many of 2 barrels for them to put on hot air q-jets.

cliffsta · 10-11-2004, 06:02 PM

So when i rebuild it, there IS a kit that has like the little pump thingie in it, and all that stuff right? Not just a gasket kit, since its beyond a gasket kit i do believe

Oh and yeah the float sticks LIKE A PUNK!! if you turn it off and let it sit about 5 minutes to go do something and go to start it, it wants to flood out. But the big thing im wanting to get fixed is the Auto choke, since its starting to get cool in the mornings its harder to start, and i'm winging it with the manual choke. Thanks for your help

*1972C10* · 10-11-2004, 09:04 PM

Yea the kit comes with a accelerator pump . You Will need to order the float seperate And you have the choice of the stock foam or brass I opt for brass.

plumbcut · 10-11-2004, 09:55 PM

as for the alternator- the amperage will be cast or stamped (BLAST I cant remember which) into the aluminum housing.. If you look real hard you can see it while its on the truck.. its on the round part of the housing i.e. the "side"- not the front or back. As for needing a new one, I have a stock amperage unit on my '77 gmc with 2 amp's around 200 watts each, running the head unit too, and at night with the headlights on and the music blasting, the volt meter doesnt even flinch.. it has absolutely no trouble running it. I would get all your stuff hooked up before you swap out alternators. it really might not be necessary- or at least it might be something you can put off until later....

pc

plumbcut · 10-11-2004, 09:58 PM

when you rebuild the quadrajet, dont get a new float! I have never seen a brass qjet float, either. they are nitrofil and unless someone F'd it up previously, it will be fine. The kit will come with a new needle & seat which is what you need to replace to fix the sticky float. good luck

pc

SanitysBane · 10-11-2004, 10:20 PM

he doesn't have at Q-jet, its a 2 barrel

*1972C10* · 10-11-2004, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumbcut

when you rebuild the quadrajet, dont get a new float! I have never seen a brass qjet float, either. they are nitrofil and unless someone F'd it up previously, it will be fine. The kit will come with a new needle & seat which is what you need to replace to fix the sticky float. good luck

pc

You've aparently never had one of them floats soak Get one that wont run right and find out its the float soaked up gas Brass is the only way to fly.

cliffsta · 10-11-2004, 11:24 PM

yeah i was waay to young to remember my dad and cousin throwing the gaskets at the thing, but judging by the way the float sticks i doubt it was changed, and since it sticks like a mofo im gonna spring for a brass one.
On alternator: yeah i was gonna wait till post amp install and battery change this month, all of which done by or on weekend of nov 5-7 as my B day will be the 5th

10-10-2004, 05:49 PM	#1
cliffsta Stepsides RULE Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Pineville, LA Posts: 1,921	Two completely unrelated questions 1. Alternator. It's been my thing recently. Any way to differenciate between 63 and 80 while its in the truck? I'm worried when i get my amp for my birthday (480 peak watts, 200 total constant), in addition to the 55 watt fog lamps, that a 63 amp alternator would not be enough. What y'all think? 2.Carburetor rebuild: Realisticly here people, fill me in. I'm considering getting one of those complete rebuild kits for my OE carb, as the general consensus on this forum is it is better to rebuild than chance it on a remanufactured unit. I know my dad and cousin rebuilt the thing a good 13 or 14 years ago, but it probably was just a gasket set. I'm assuming that if i get a complete rebuild kit and we do it right, it should run almost like new? Also, the electric choke is broke and my dad has had a manual choke rigged up. I can replace the electric choke while doing this ya? __________________ 1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD 1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD 1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD 2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature 1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake Cardomain of the Accord

10-10-2004, 07:02 PM	#3
cliffsta Stepsides RULE Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Pineville, LA Posts: 1,921	its not a Qjet, its a 2 barrel, Rochester M2MC, on a 305 V8. Guess i shoulda speified that, but good advice on everything else too. __________________ 1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD 1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD 1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD 2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature 1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake Cardomain of the Accord

10-11-2004, 06:02 PM	#5
cliffsta Stepsides RULE Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Pineville, LA Posts: 1,921	So when i rebuild it, there IS a kit that has like the little pump thingie in it, and all that stuff right? Not just a gasket kit, since its beyond a gasket kit i do believe Oh and yeah the float sticks LIKE A PUNK!! if you turn it off and let it sit about 5 minutes to go do something and go to start it, it wants to flood out. But the big thing im wanting to get fixed is the Auto choke, since its starting to get cool in the mornings its harder to start, and i'm winging it with the manual choke. Thanks for your help __________________ 1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD 1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD 1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD 2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature 1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake Cardomain of the Accord

10-11-2004, 10:20 PM	#9
SanitysBane Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lubbock, Texas Posts: 2,121	he doesn't have at Q-jet, its a 2 barrel __________________ '96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer

10-11-2004, 11:24 PM	#11
cliffsta Stepsides RULE Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Pineville, LA Posts: 1,921	yeah i was waay to young to remember my dad and cousin throwing the gaskets at the thing, but judging by the way the float sticks i doubt it was changed, and since it sticks like a mofo im gonna spring for a brass one. On alternator: yeah i was gonna wait till post amp install and battery change this month, all of which done by or on weekend of nov 5-7 as my B day will be the 5th __________________ 1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD 1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD 1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD 2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature 1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake Cardomain of the Accord

10-10-2004, 06:05 PM	#2
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Just replace the reostat that controls the choke that should fix that... The carb can be 100% right and it may not some things wear out.. One tip for a q-jet if the area around the accel pump arm is worn cut the end off a starter shim and put it in there. The alternator needs to run all that but the battery acts like a capacitor so the alt can recover . Most people who put steros in never change the alternators anyhow. Althou its a really good idea.

10-11-2004, 12:45 AM	#4
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Those 2 barrels are pretty hard to mess up put in a new brass float. Im not sure if its has the plastic one or not. Ive got a couple of those carbs if you take something off and cant figure out where it goes back on. The reostat is the same q-jet or 2 bbl Ive robbed a many of 2 barrels for them to put on hot air q-jets.

10-11-2004, 09:04 PM	#6
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Yea the kit comes with a accelerator pump . You Will need to order the float seperate And you have the choice of the stock foam or brass I opt for brass.

10-11-2004, 09:55 PM	#7
plumbcut california fill Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sunny So-Cal Posts: 694	as for the alternator- the amperage will be cast or stamped (BLAST I cant remember which) into the aluminum housing.. If you look real hard you can see it while its on the truck.. its on the round part of the housing i.e. the "side"- not the front or back. As for needing a new one, I have a stock amperage unit on my '77 gmc with 2 amp's around 200 watts each, running the head unit too, and at night with the headlights on and the music blasting, the volt meter doesnt even flinch.. it has absolutely no trouble running it. I would get all your stuff hooked up before you swap out alternators. it really might not be necessary- or at least it might be something you can put off until later.... pc

10-11-2004, 09:58 PM	#8
plumbcut california fill Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sunny So-Cal Posts: 694	when you rebuild the quadrajet, dont get a new float! I have never seen a brass qjet float, either. they are nitrofil and unless someone F'd it up previously, it will be fine. The kit will come with a new needle & seat which is what you need to replace to fix the sticky float. good luck pc



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