S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

SIM6; Nawh, just a reader. Had an absolute blast though!

[Sim6]

Awesome! I bet that was cool to get to hang out with Pewe and the gang. I've been a reader of their mag for a decade or so. What did you drive/ride in?
Jeff

[skymangs]

I have pics of Pewe and I, and of Tim Hardy and I. Awesome bunch of guys! I was Co-dog for Matt Bokan in the Scout. I have an IH addiction as well.

[Sim6]

Skymangs,
If you have a two piece drive shaft do you switch to one piece shaft or just shorten the closest/shortest shaft. Also swapping in a carb small block and th350. Using your cab mounts you add a tranny tunnel?

[skymangs]

I stay with the 2 piece shaft, and have the short section cut to length and balanced. You will need a small transmission tunnel. Look at Rico F. '54 3600 thread or Cecil's thread for examples.

[Sim6]

Thank you sir.

[skymangs]

Sure thing!

[steve aleve]

Here is a quick question on locating the cab mounts. My assumption is that if the existing holes are 30-1/2" back from the center line of the axle... then on the s10 frame, I should be able to set them 30-1/2" back and it should be exact. Is there any reason this wouldn't be the case?

[Sim6]

I measured from the center of where SKYMANGS says to put the front cab mount and it is 30 1/2 on my s10 frame. I think you're right on the money Steve.

[skymangs]

I agree. I haven't measured an axle centerline for quite awhile, but that sounds right.

[av8tr33337]

I haven't been to the forum in quite a while. Its nice to see a section devoted to the s10 chassis swap.

[Flatty]

I just spent the last 3 days reading this thread and I am glad I did. I will be picking up a 49 in the next few weeks (Gotta clear out the garage first). I was thinking about doing a full tube chassis, but the s-10 seems to be the way to go. Thanks for all the directions.

Just like you, I have a rockcrawling addiction. I have been building FJ40's on tons and 40"+ tires for the last 20 years. I will be bringing some of that heavy fab work over into this realm.

My question is this: Why even go full frame? Do you see any damage in doing a tube rear chassis for the bed to sit on? I want to get this thing low, but not too low. It will be on bags so that when parked, I can drop it to the ground. I figure with the tube chassis, I can get that done.

Dima

[skymangs]

Thanks guys.

Flatty; no issue with the tube frame whatsoever. This thread was created to specifically cover S10 swaps since they are so popular. I got into these since this was an easily affordable option for my more budget minded customers. I also do stubs, M2 suspension, vette running gear 4 links, etc.

[Garyhenrich]

Sky, have you had any compatibility issues with using the S10 brakes booster, master and porportioning valve when adding the 4x4 rear end with disks? My S10 is an 84, I think the rear end is from a 96 blazer. I have a very firm pedal and a lot of pressure is needed to stop the truck, pedal stays high and firm. Nothing like a low and soft peddle from air in the lines. . I switched the booster for another out of a K5, no change.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Strodder]

I've been following this thread, and not sure if someone addressed the issue of mounting the front bumper. Here's what I did. I made a bracket from 1X2 tubing and slipped it into the frame and clamped it. I forgot to take a picture of what it looked like. Sorry. Then welded a nut in the inside part of the bumper brackets so a bolt can be bolted through the bracket and frame. Then I had to modify the bumper brackets so the bumper would be centered. After I had everything centered I did the final welding and boxed in the front frame around the brackets I made that lets the bumper brackets slide in. I can undo 4 bolts and the whole bumper and brackets come right out. Here's the pictures I took. Hope you like the idea.

[skymangs]

Gary; it sure sounds like a vaccum issue to me. Make sure your booster vaccum hose is attached to "non-ported" vaccum source (below the throttle plate) then check for vaccum leaks. You should have around 15hg at idle. I've used disk setups on the stock booster/master many times.

[skymangs]

Strodder; love the idea. On my swaps, the bumper brackets always ride just below the frame. You must mount the cab a little over to the frame than I do.

[skymangs]

On an un-related note, here's a few pics of the G body front section I just completed. The fit is really amazing. Perfect wheel track, no spacers needed!

[steve aleve]

Here is a question regarding the radiator and core support height. To achieve the ride height I am after, I have mounted my cab approximately a half inch off of the frame. I want to mention that I am running a 5.3 LS engine. I will have a large trans tunnel and I'm totally ok with that. So I have seen the 19 x 22 double pass radiators used and it seems like in most applications having the radiator sit ABOVE the steering box is ok there is still room in the core support to house the radiator. My question is, what are my options on a radiator when the body sits this low? Do I have to accept that the radiator will sit high? Can I tilt the radiator to miss the steering box and fit down in the core support? Different radiator dimensions? Thanks in advance

[T-P Auto]

Steve;

Look At my post;
( The Frankenstine build )
You will need to have your front fenders mounted to the cab to center your front wheels.
You will need to do this to find how thw hood fit to the fenders.
I had my body 2" off the frame, had to raise the front of cab up 1.25 " higher then the rear.
With the cab n fenders mounted you will get an ideal of where the radiator will set.

Just some information I had to work out on my build.

T-P Auto
Tim

[steve aleve]

Thanks Tim,

I have been following your build for a while now. Great job!! This definitely helps. Can I ask, what are the dimensions of the radiator you used? is it the 19x22 that I have seen most people using?

[skymangs]

With your cab that close to the frame you may need to get a little creative. I dont care for tilting the rad. My son's truck is like that and the temp creeps when its 100 deg. And idling in a cruise. I'm convinced that the tilt has everything to do with it. You are adding turbulence add reducing air flow through the core if you. Ant get the clearance for a cross flow, you could always go with RIck and pinion..

[T-P Auto]

Steve;
The radiator is 19 x 22 from Speedway.
If I had though it thur more.
I would have set my cab closer to the engine n the dist.
If you look you can see that I have about 4.5 " from dist to cab.
Had I moved the body forward that much.
I would have had enough room to use the full front radiator support .
Just really look it over n move it around some before you fab the mounts.
Read the full post by skymangs all so.
There is a lot of good info in his post n builds.

T-P Auto
Tim

P/S keep note of what you use.

[skymangs]

Thanks T-P. Steve, if you want to talk about options on your build, feel free to call any time. 7602670624
~Sarge

[SkeeterBilt]

awesome thread. youve helped me so much and im just beganing.

question tho. im using an s10 frame with a 4x4 rear, using 2 inch spacers up front what offset should i run for the fronts and backs? stock up front? id like to have a little bit wider in the rear.
thanks