67 Camaro Build

[mongocanfly]

great score!!!!!

[Troy Sr]

I love those SW green line gauges! I had some vintage ones in my '55 Chevy, being a stupid kid I swapped in some cheap Chinese gauges!! Now that I'm doing a restoration on my '55 I ordered a whole new set of SW green lines, I can't wait to see them working!!!

[KevinK7]

That SW tach looks amazing

I'm not sure where you are at with the window parts (regulators, guides, etc.) but if you run into missing items give me a shout. I do have some parts lying around (ie window guides ...just in case

While we are talking regulators, I'm sure you're aware of the shaft length differences for deluxe vs standard. (deluxe a tad longer, ...due to door panel thickness).


Keep up the great work, this thing is going to be way cool

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

great score!!!!!

Thanks Greg, I agree it was a great score!

Originally Posted by Troy Sr

I love those SW green line gauges! I had some vintage ones in my '55 Chevy, being a stupid kid I swapped in some cheap Chinese gauges!! Now that I'm doing a restoration on my '55 I ordered a whole new set of SW green lines, I can't wait to see them working!!!

Thanks Troy, me too the green lines are some of my all-time favorites.

Originally Posted by KevinK7

That SW tach looks amazing

I'm not sure where you are at with the window parts (regulators, guides, etc.) but if you run into missing items give me a shout. I do have some parts lying around (ie window guides ...just in case

While we are talking regulators, I'm sure you're aware of the shaft length differences for deluxe vs standard. (deluxe a tad longer, ...due to door panel thickness).


Keep up the great work, this thing is going to be way cool

Thanks Kevin, I appreciate your comments and the offer, I’ll keep it in mind.




Talking about glass, now’s a good time to catch up the thread. As mentioned earlier most of our hardware is present and in very good shape. We do have a deluxe interior and as Kevin mentioned the window mechs are unique for that style of interior. We had to acquire reproduction wing window assemblies as well as an all-new glass kit to replace missing, scratched, etc. Since we needed all new glass, I like the factory AC green tint style even though it’s not really correct for our non-AC car. It’s not very noticeable but looks great against a white car (IMO), and might help keep the interior a little cooler.

Here are some pics of the driver’s side mockup. Since the body tub and doors are new, they’ve never had anything fit to them, glass, tracks, mechs, handles, door panels, weather stripping, etc. The plan has been to try and pre-fit most everything I can before paint, not just the body panels. Really trying to avoid any “Oh Sh*t” moments! That being said everything fits pretty close but not quite (whole car statement ), some things are worse than others and occasionally a part just fits, Oorah!

Since we have original side glass ready to go, I decided to use it for pre-fit, then switch it out once I’m satisfied and possibly minimize any damage to new parts. Also, if a problem arises, I know the OE glass fit just fine earlier.

[KevinK7]

Just got back from the Camaro Nationals, I saw this and was thinking of Brett's project

Here's a couple of pics for inspiration

Look closely, there's a bit of an 'anomaly' with this car. It's a '68, but it has no side markers ...

The car itself was awsome, ...but then the trailer, ...sheez

[NONHOG]

Great trip down memory lane. Had a V-gate, M/T 427 valve covers (wish I recalled where they went LOL)
Fun build! Thanks for taking the time to post!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Just got back from the Camaro Nationals, I saw this and was thinking of Brett's project

Here's a couple of pics for inspiration

Look closely, there's a bit of an 'anomaly' with this car. It's a '68, but it has no side markers ...

The car itself was awsome, ...but then the trailer, ...sheez

Very cool Kevin! I would’ve loved to have seen that car in person, the trailer reminds me of TV Tommy Ivo’s glass-sided haulers. https://www.nhra.com/news/2010/tommy-s-towing-toys

If I remember correctly Doug Boyce mentioned in his Grumpy’s Toys book, that Grumpy had bolted the 67’s fenders on his 68 for some reason. I’ve seen pics of it that way also, but it retained the 68’s side marker lights in the rear. Very similar look to this tribute car though, I’m guessing these links are to the same car.

https://www.racingjunk.com/news/raci...75165768912_n/
https://www.holley.com/garage/view/1...vrolet-camaro/

Originally Posted by NONHOG

Great trip down memory lane. Had a V-gate, M/T 427 valve covers (wish I recalled where they went LOL)
Fun build! Thanks for taking the time to post!

Thanks NONHOG, I appreciate your comments.


All the inner structures have holes in the stampings for the window mechs, but found they are off here and there (arrow). No biggie, just elongate the hole a little and bolt it down. Didn’t have anything bad enough that I felt the hole needed to be welded up and redrilled. Also adding the mounting tabs for the deluxe interior rear arm rests, these will get tacked when I’m positive on the final location, they’re close now.

Pics of the passenger’s side glass mock up to this point. This side continues to be the more difficult (PITA ) side, it has been for body panels and continues for the wing window fitment. The quarter and door glass will fit fine once the ww is correctly placed. Had to modify the front lower mount adjusters opening in this door’s inner structure (incorrectly placed opening). Sorry, no pic fender was in the way at this time, using a die grinder from inside the door I opened up the mounting hole until the ww adjuster screw could mount.

It's close, but no cigar, the ww just barely touches the a-pillar up towards the top (see pic). We also have a gap between the ww weatherstrip and the outer door skin. That leads to a canyon between the door glass and the outer door skin. With just enough adjustment to get the pieces in the door, roll up and down the windows, it’s obvious this area is needing more work. More to come on this issue in a future post of the 67 Camaro Build thread! Ha, that sounds like a closing statement from a Freiburger show on Motortrend.

[7dee2]

There’s Fastlane progress to report, these pics that Mike “Gold” took you can see our “Good to go!” block has had some of the block prep completed. Wouldn’t think it was the same block except for the earlier stamping in the pan rail (link). http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=133

The crank is balanced (looking at it from the different angles looks like that was a job) and Gold is starting to fit it to the block. Nope, that’s not blood in the fourth pic, but areas that need clearance marked with a red marker. Yeah, I did, I thought it was Mike’s blood the first time I saw this pic.

Here’s a link to show what all is involved in the block prep. https://hotrodenginetech.com/basic-e...lock-prep-101/

[7dee2]

The following morning I showed up at Fastlane and found our block on the mill having some additional material removed (starting with cylinder #7). Mike said that the crank would rotate, but felt it was too close and needed more clearance. He added that he uses a piece of wire between the rotating assembly and the block to confirm minimum clearances.

This will make a nice addition to the Camaro, last November we placed an order with Dewitts for their super-duper HP Black Ice Manual 67-69 Camaro direct fit radiator (32-4249022). Had to wait a few months to get it but worth it, I know this’ll keep the Maro’s 511 cool.

I’m a big fan (pun ) of the Spal dual fan module. It’s what I run in our 72 K30, with an old copper 4-core radiator, 489 stroked bbc, and lots of accessories (AC, PS/hydroboost, High Amp Alt.) this very heavy 1-ton 4x4 dually keeps cool. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=814

[7dee2]

Our rally wheels are back from powder, very close to the argent silver you would expect to see on this type of wheel. They’ll go back into boxes and on the shelf for now.

Back to fitting the subframe connectors. Small problem, they’re wanting to share some of the same space as the rocker pinch welds, evenly on both sides. After talking to BMR who said that is not how they normally fit, it was decided that it’s a reproduction body issue and was left up to me. Not really a big deal, just need to roll the pinch weld a little for clearance. Here are some pics of starting the process and getting them bolted in.

Thinking once the pinch weld is massaged a little more (not as wavy) and the subframe, subframe connector, and outer rocker are all painted a satin/semi black this will not be noticeable.

[7dee2]

Earlier I mocked a Mr. Gasket V-Gate shifter for our project (post 119). A few posts later (122) mentioned our Hurst RamRod 4 shifter and the long search to locate an affordable boot. One did show up on eBay that we acquired for considerably less denaro. With a nicely repaired small tear it is in excellent shape and came with a used trim ring. Here are some pics from the original eBay listing.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=119
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=122

A little more time has passed and while looking for period correct speed parts I ran across another Ram 4 boot. What another boot, I know I can’t believe it either! This one was on FB in one of the groups I belong to. It was posted as an “in search of V-Gate boot swap”, needing to be in like condition. This one has what is left of the original packaging with a Hurst warranty card and Hurst packaged screws. It also has a V-Gate style trim ring (slightly larger outside diameter, see pics) that’ll still work. After a few weeks of shipping time FL-UT, then UT-FL the deal was done, and both of us were satisfied. Ha, a pair of boots, more on what that has led to later.

[72 tigger]

You come up with some cool parts!!

[regan wilson]

Those are some really cool finds on the parts. We had an old Speed Shop in town I would have loved to go rummage through. I never heard what happened to the contents. I bought my first hotrod parts there when I was a kid.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

You come up with some cool parts!!

Thanks Kirk I’ve been lucky, found almost everything I’ve been after for this project. Kind of hot & cold for an old Lakewood 3-point bolt-in roll bar, time will tell.

Originally Posted by regan wilson

Those are some really cool finds on the parts. We had an old Speed Shop in town I would have loved to go rummage through. I never heard what happened to the contents. I bought my first hotrod parts there when I was a kid.

Thanks Regan, rummaging through an old speed shop would be a good time. I got to work at our local speed shop (FG Ferre & Sons in SLC, UT) for a short time right out of high school. Here’s a link that mentions them and some sponsorships. FG Ferre and Super Shops were the places for speed parts in Salt Lake back in the day. http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthre...-Fuel-Dragster



Yippy skippy, look what showed up, our Orange Headers are here! Packaged very well, no damage, man if these fit as good as they look we’ll be in fat city. Here’s a pic I found of some orange headers in a first gen Camaro (69?) with an aluminum big block (ZL1?), black wrinkle 427 M/T covers, fly-eye air cleaner, whoa, very nice.

[Troy Sr]

I had my headers look like the on my '55 Belair!!! The only problem was it wasn't paint it was HEAT!!!

[7dee2]

Yeah, headers can be a pain, normally I go for exhaust manifolds so much easier to live with but that doesn’t really fit this build. Also, since this is a street car I’ll be insulating the firewall, floor boards, passenger compartment, etc. Upgraded fuel and cooling systems to overcome under the hood heat issues are in the works. I know the orange coating is a ceramic-based coating so I’m hoping it doesn’t burn off immediately. Plus the fact that I’m so looking forward to hearing our big block through these super scavenger headers is making it worth it.




While messing with the glass I did take time to fix the Camaro’s chin, reminded me of Karl in the movie Sling Blade “MMM HMM!”. The inner mounting structure sits too far back and push’s the chin out too far. Repositioning it just a little bit should close the gaps between the lower grill and valance.

[7dee2]

The repro grill mounting hardware uses a nut and bolt to secure the grill in this area. GM used a captive nut clip and a short bolt as you can’t get your fingers or a wrench in there very easily, especially now since we closed up that space. Could that be why the mount was where it was, to give more room? Nah, who knows, looks good now though (before pic #3, both OE or repro valance fit the same).

[mongocanfly]

never seen orange headers before..!!

[7dee2]

Very 70’s, here are some orange headers on both the covers of How to Hotrod Big Block Chevys (https://www.google.com/books/edition...sec=frontcover), and How to Hotrod Small Block Chevys (https://www.google.com/books/edition...sec=frontcover).

Short video of a loud rowdy small block with orange headers, he talks about how the coating turns red when hot. His Mickey Thompson Super Scavengers came from the same source we got ours Sweet Ave. Fabrication. https://youtu.be/GK_SO_n3miQ




Time to fit the rear bumper, filler neck, and cap assembly. Had to give the left outside bumper bracket and body area a little help to line up, but the filler neck pieces went right in. Also checked our fuel tank sending and license plate light wires where these pass through the body.

[7dee2]

The same source that supplied our original Stewart Warner 970-B Green Line tachometer. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=225 Decided to sell his beautiful SW 977-J Sidewinder tachometer, this particular tach has been converted to a modern meter by the same vendor that serviced the 970-B Green Line. It is a direct wire so no need for a monitor, it's designed to work with all ignition systems and has been upgraded with modern LED lighting. After testing this tach (btw, all our tachs read the same engine just a little bit different ) I’m thinking that this converted tach with the modern internals is the one we'll start off with.

[7dee2]

Just another lucky day? Well maybe, cruising the local online classifieds I ran across another 4-bolt core (w/std. flat top pistons & rods), and for just $100 bucks it was worth a look for sure. This one has a 10069286-casting number which is 90-91 454 4-bolt, Mark IV, short deck, the build date stamping is T06020XG T=Tonawanda, June 2nd, 0XG= 1990 Marine 454 310HP Inboard/Outboard 4BBL. As mentioned before these blocks were only cast as a 4-bolt main and are some of the very last factory Mark IVs produced.

Déjà vu we’ve several with this same 286 casting number, our K30 has one and the C10 motor currently at Fastlane Machine is another. Those are both truck blocks where this one is a marine block, the same thing just built for a boat. The plan is to keep this one for a backup and sell the 2-bolt main block we had from the motorhome (with all the flat top pistons, rods, and its original cast crank). If you don’t recall the motorhome block (link), that one looked like it needed a sleeve in cylinder #7. It was acquired at the same time as our 445 “Good to go!” block that’s being built for this project.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=128

I’m not a boat guy but I believe marine blocks usually use lake water instead of antifreeze as their coolant. This can be hard on the coolant passages (rust, sediment, etc.) but with a thorough blowout during the initial inspection, I think this block looks ok and should be a good builder if it's needed.

[7dee2]

Big block motor stands and the big block manual trans mount move everything to the right just a little in these cars. Mentioned this earlier (link), here’s a pic with our complete (heavy) mockup 402 and T10 in relation to the tunnel. Getting up the guts to cut a big hole for an inline shifter in that nice new floor.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=168

When ordering the body tub I requested that they leave the seat pans loose. At the time, I wasn’t sure what subframe connectors or drive line loop we'd run. Some manufacturers (Detroit Speed for example) have you remove the seat pans to install their products and then modify and reinstall them. Prepped ours to be welded after fitting the BMR subframe connectors.

Looking at what'll take to mount this old Lakewood universal style drive line loop that we already have, or. Ran across a newer even simpler designed loop online, whichever loop is chosen it'll hit in the seat pan area. Going to wait until I’ve got a better idea of what is happening for sure before welding in the pans.

[7dee2]

So, looking at the car side to side noticed that the right outer door shell is slightly bowed at the top. Thinking that’s contributing a bit to the window to door skin gap (aka, canyon) found while fitting the door glass on the right side. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=232

Moved the car out from underneath the lift, prepping to pull all the front sheet metal again. The plan is to box it all back up for the next round of part fittings. Here’s a pic of the spot dedicated to storing the extra hood and trunk lid (wall art?). Seems to be working these last few months, should also accept the other hood and spoiler trunk lid when not on the car. My only concern is the Stinger hood is noticeably heavier than the SS hood.

[7dee2]

Front clip removed, check. Pulled the (heavy) mockup motor and transmission, check. I think we’re done using this motor and trans to simulate the weight of the real deal. Documented all the shim locations and thicknesses so it'll go back together fairly close to how it was when we picked it up from Perks.

[7dee2]

Next up, install the actual bell housing and transmission that we’re going to run. Get to use a clean bare block and heads this go around. Yep, that’s why we try and do it this way, the block saver plate moved the trans mount back just enough. So, after a quick and easy modification, the trans mount is able to bolt to the crossmember again. You know as a buddy of mine (and Roseanne Roseannadanna) likes to say “It’s always something!”. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7REI-kBlyQ8