Project: Recycle

[N2TRUX]

You have very valid points, I just don't like the look of aftermarket gauges in these trucks dash. Doesn't anyone restore the OEM cluster?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You have very valid points, I just don't like the look of aftermarket gauges in these trucks dash. Doesn't anyone restore the OEM cluster?

I considered having a gauge cluster restored. But, that $400 cost is just a clean 'gauge' cluster w/a 'new' re-pop tach (that works w/HEI). Now add the cost of restoring the gauges on top & we're way past the $400 aftermarket option.

I'm w/you on these trucks w/aftermarket gauges. I don't care for the generic billet/ABS plastic (like Covans) set-ups but there's only so much you can do when arranging the gauges within the given space. I'm trying to find some sort of compromise.... nostalgic appearing gauges that tell me what drivetrain vitals I need to know (actual temp, actual oil psi, actual voltage).

[72BlckButy]

Beautiful BBW conversion, much better!

[ChiefRocka]

Just read all this....great job man, all the advice you give is being put to work now....

Looking good bro...

[LILRED66]

Nice write-up and photo-documentation on the BBW conversion. I am going to try the 3M, #8115, Panel Bonding Adhesive. It would make the conversion a lot less labor intensive, with regards to welding, grinding & top-dressing all puddle welds around the perimeter.

A completely restored factory dash cluster with gauges is less than $400.00...including night-glow green on inside of case, zinc-coat on outside of case, non-glare black on face of gauge backing plate, alumi-blast & clear on bezel surround, vinyl gauge faces, polished lens, refinished needles, bench-tested gauges, speedo lub & reset and new lamps. We have done several of them and they look amazing when they are done properly.

You can also purchase them refurbished at:

www.bowtiebits.com

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by LILRED66

Nice write-up and photo-documentation on the BBW conversion. I am going to try the 3M, #8115, Panel Bonding Adhesive. It would make the conversion a lot less labor intensive, with regards to welding, grinding & top-dressing all puddle welds around the perimeter.

A completely restored factory dash cluster with gauges is less than $400.00...including night-glow green on inside of case, zinc-coat on outside of case, non-glare black on face of gauge backing plate, alumi-blast & clear on bezel surround, vinyl gauge faces, polished lens, refinished needles, bench-tested gauges, speedo lub & reset and new lamps. We have done several of them and they look amazing when they are done properly.

You can also purchase them refurbished at:

www.bowtiebits.com

The cheapest I've found the aftermarket re-pop tach kits for is $190. The average prices for clean gauge clusters is $60-100. Add in the labor for clean-up, detailing or polishing, shipping, plus the 'new' tach kit w/shipping & that's where my $400 estimate for a restored 'gauge' cluster & bezel originated. I could be slightly high (or low) on the estimate & I'm not sure on the actual condition of the gauges or what if any warranty there would be.

Let me know if you've got a smokin' deal on something.....

[Jonboy]

Originally Posted by LILRED66

Nice write-up and photo-documentation on the BBW conversion. I am going to try the 3M, #8115, Panel Bonding Adhesive. It would make the conversion a lot less labor intensive, with regards to welding, grinding & top-dressing all puddle welds around the perimeter.

A completely restored factory dash cluster with gauges is less than $400.00...including night-glow green on inside of case, zinc-coat on outside of case, non-glare black on face of gauge backing plate, alumi-blast & clear on bezel surround, vinyl gauge faces, polished lens, refinished needles, bench-tested gauges, speedo lub & reset and new lamps. We have done several of them and they look amazing when they are done properly.

You can also purchase them refurbished at:

www.bowtiebits.com

8115 works really well for things like this. being lazy, I also used it to fill trim holes on a '94 Buick Roadmaster I had once upon a time. It worked great. I bring this up because the trim holes in these trucks are pretty similar. It would save a ton of panel warpage if one was going to fill all of the trim holes.

[Dinos63]

NICE WORK KAT!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

8115 works really well for things like this. being lazy, I also used it to fill trim holes on a '94 Buick Roadmaster I had once upon a time. It worked great.....

Off topic, but do you feel that it is stable enough to use on trim holes? It seems like it might come back to haunt you later.

[Jonboy]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Off topic, but do you feel that it is stable enough to use on trim holes? It seems like it might come back to haunt you later.

If you use a metal patch on the back, it will stay. There were probably at least 20 holes on each door. I think using the 8115 was probably a better fix, as you didn't have to worry about warpage. It's funny now, but we used pennies on the backside (since they were hidden) on the holes, and cut metal patches to fill the opera lights on the pillars and the hood ornament hole. I had the car for a couple of years after that, and there was not even any minor cracking at the repair.

The instructions say to weld the replacement panel at the ends (depending on the type of adhesive bonding material used). I don't think it replaces welding completely, but used properly it works well. There are a lot of OEM applications as well.

[joe231]

$610 plus a $60 core charge at bowtiebits

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by joe231

$610 plus a $60 core charge at bowtiebits

Exactly.

[m6z]

nice

[ratty 46]

I just spent the last 45 minutes reading the build process/progress & all I can say is very well thought out .... awesome job.

Ratty 46

[SCOTI]

I went by the shop today. The truck has the doors hung & is just sitting there waiting on glass. The glass guy has what he needs; we're just waiting on windshield seals that I was told I'd have by Wednesday. I got the 'cab kit' w/all the door & cab weatherstrip needed for assembly.

I grabbed all the door hardware & brought it home. After work tomorrow I plan to thoroughly clean everything & see how many of the existing parts I can re-use (I got hit w/2K in unexpected expenses in the last week so no power windows for now).

I sourced the cab insulation (Hush mat) & should have it early next week. I still need to order a carpet kit but I can @ least get started prepping for the interior re-assembly. No final decision on the gauges but still leaning heavily toward an aftermarket 6-gauge set-up in the OE cluster bezel.

I sprayed the air-ride control panel w/some VHT wrinkle finish paint. It turned out decent & I'll possibly use that finish on more items before it's all said & done.

I'll also be calling some local sandblast places this week & see if I can swing getting the chassis parts uniform. It makes the painted parts look so much better . . .....

[67cheby]

WOW, just found this one AWESOME......

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

.....I'll also be calling some local sandblast places this week & see if I can swing getting the chassis parts uniform. It makes the painted parts look so much better . . .....

I thought you were going to powder coat all the parts. What happened there?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I thought you were going to powder coat all the parts. What happened there?

(I got hit w/2K in unexpected expenses in the last week.....)

A new dryer & replacing the entire service panel for power supply to the house wiped out my extra-cash/ truck funds.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

A new dryer & replacing the entire service panel for power supply to the house wiped out my extra-cash/ truck funds.

Sorry to hear about that. Powder coating is over rated anyway, .....

[chev-obsession]

this is a really cool build scoti!

[SCOTI]

Update. . ... Fresh front & back glass is installed. Bad news is the rear gasket is not co-operating & bunched up on the lower 90° corners. He tried to work the offending areas but the soapy residue was limiting progress. He's going to give it a day or two to dry out & work it some more. He's an 'old school' glass guy that's retired but likes to keep busy w/side work. He's confident we'll get the wrinkles worked out.....

I'm still trying to find the vent window frames (both sides on mine are rusted through in a different area each side). The window seals/rubbers should be here early in the week to start re-assembly on the door guts.

The cab insulation arrived, but it came w/the silver/foil liner vs. the black liner that I wanted. We'll get that exchanged next week & should have some pic worthy progress!

[72BlckButy]

Nice progress SCOTI!

[SCOTI]

Not much progress.... I pulled the vent window glass from their respective frames to investigate the possibility of 'patching' the rusted areas of the frames. The amount of force it took to remove the glass tweaked one of the frames pretty bad as the rust was really bad.

I'm not considering the new re-pop parts. Almost $300 (each side) w/clear glass & chrome trim (I need tinted glass/black trim). No way I'm spending that kind of money for frames I'll have to refinish. I am watching e-bay for a set of vent windows plus the guys I purchased the rear window/cab section from most likely have what I need. But.... they're an hour away if/when I can align schedules so I'm considering options.

I did get the 8pc door seal kit (perimeter door seals, glass run channels, & glass wiper strips) & the vent window rebuild rubber kit. I'll also have a set of Stewart Warner gauges by Friday & the pic should give you the basic layout idea .

[SCOTI]

One step forward, two steps back.

I went to the shop on Friday afternoon & inspected the rear glass/seal concerns. No improvement . . . .... The glass guy came out & worked on the pinched area that was @ the lower, outside corner on the pass side. He was able to remove the 'pinch' but the result was a fairly significant 'bulge' in the seal. I would be trading one less than satisfactory result for another.

We discussed options & decided it would be best to remove the glass & re-try installation. Upon removing the glass & seal, we found the seal split in the area where the problem was occuring. I also took the OE small glass & put it against the large glass to compare the lower corners. It appears he can remove a little more material around the corner while still sealing well. This will hopefully help prevent the seal from wanting to bunch-up in the tighter lower corners. We'll find out Monday morning.

I did get the gauges & like them alot! I also will try & patch the vent window frames & hopefully same some $$ by not having to purchase new/different units.

Everyone have a safe Independence Day!

[greg65]

I have two factory bbw glasses for my project. Not sure if pictures would help but I would be glad to take some for you. Your truck in looking awsome.