Scott's '51 Build

[lower50's]

Finally finished reading your build, your doing a amazing job. I like the color you chose one of my favorites. Why did you use Lizard skin and dyna mat? Keep up the good work.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Finally finished reading your build, your doing a amazing job. I like the color you chose one of my favorites. Why did you use Lizard skin and dyna mat? Keep up the good work.

Lower —- Thank you! I really appreciate it and can’t wait to get the truck running and driving.

Why both Lizard Skin and Dynamat? Partly because i’m good at overkill I guess? But I also figured each product has benefits. I like the coating and sealing that LS provides and it works well on the bottom out in the elements, and the Dynamat gives me an extra layer inside. I want to be sure the cab is quiet and doesn’t get too hot inside.

[lower50's]

Ok just wondering. I have LS in mine and heat is not an issue, great stuff. I find the sound that is inside bounces around until I got my head liner and door panels in. Now I can hardly hear the diesel. It will be a bit better still once I do carpet. Do you have a finish date in mind?

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Ok just wondering. I have LS in mine and heat is not an issue, great stuff. I find the sound that is inside bounces around until I got my head liner and door panels in. Now I can hardly hear the diesel. It will be a bit better still once I do carpet. Do you have a finish date in mind?

Cool - I should be just fine then.

Finish date? The target is sometime in Q1. I am really close to bolting the cab on for good, then it’s on to wiring. I expect that will be a big time sink but overall I think Q1 is realistic.

What did you use for a headliner? Have you put anything over the wall behind the seat?

[Scott2]

I'm trying to sort a couple of things out to keep moving and would appreciate suggestions on these questions:

1) I'm going to put the usual 90 degree bend 4" air filter pipe w/cone filter on my LQ4 throttle body. I'm searching and looking at what others have used (Spectre, Airaid, K&N...) and I'm trying to find a good but budget friendly choice vs. some of the ~$400 options. I know this group is great at searching out good deals so does anyone have a recommendation that you are happy with for a little better price?

2) I am also looking at alternative water pump inlets. Mine sticks straight out to the right like a big woody and l think I need a short, straight inlet. I'm using a Champion radiator. See the pic. I've seen a variety in my searches but not a clear solution. Does a straight stub sound right? Any specific products you'd recommend?

3) My door hinges need rebuilt. I bought the usual kits and tried myself but I cannot get them apart even after heat, a dozen liquid wrench type products, and a giant BFH, etc. Is there anyone that rebuilds these hinges as a service? I did see that Flysocal said "Dr. J's" did his - I need to run that down but I'm looking to see if there is anyone else?

4) I am going to plumb the Derale Trans Cooler (mounted outside of right frame rail under the cab) for my 4L80e including a pass through the radiator. With the LS type motor there isn't much room along the right side frame rail for the lines and the exhaust system (Hooker cast headers) is pretty close. Any suggestions on the best routing? Hardline or hose?

Sidenote: I have been installing the VA Air system and last night I was admiring the setup on the motor with the new Sanden compressor sitting up high on Kwik Perf brackets, and realized it has a doggone v-belt pulley! How the heck did I miss that?? So I called VA this morning and it turns out I have the wrong compressor. I've also had the system for 18 months and threw away the compressor carton. But they stepped right up and are sending me the correct compressor ASAP and also sent a call tag to return the current one. Great service and no hassle at all! Gotta love it.

I also had questions about the steam hose connection and a vacuum source for the brake booster but a little searching on the site turned up great answers. It would be so much harder to do a build like these trucks without all the help and the encouragement! Thanks all!

[lower50's]

I bought the original style card head liner and I put black speaker carpet on it looks really good and helps with sound absorption. On the wall behind the seat I have LS sprayed on there and glued on speaker carpet.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by lower50's

I bought the original style card head liner and I put black speaker carpet on it looks really good and helps with sound absorption. On the wall behind the seat I have LS sprayed on there and glued on speaker carpet.

Thanks!

[Advanced Design]

There is a straight neck available. Here is one at Jegs...http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/4932/10002/-1

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

There is a straight neck available. Here is one at Jegs...http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/4932/10002/-1

Thanks Doug - that’s perfect! Great looking motor! Which ride is that going in?

[OutlawDrifter]

I used a Mr. Gasket version of the Spectre straight neck shown above.

I ran 90's off my 80e, rubber lines off of that and then hard lines up to the core support for my tranny cooler. Then ran some short jumper hoses from the cooler in front of the radiator to the hard lines.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Thanks Doug - that’s perfect! Great looking motor! Which ride is that going in?

Very welcome. That is just a picture I grabbed somewhere while researching accessory drives and straight necks.

[reaper71]

You Guys may want to think twice about the Spectre unit. I installed one on the 38 I'm finishing up with and it leaked out of the box!
Replaced the O ring,leaked the flange was not flat so I sanded flat and leaked worse! So it has been replaced.

Mark

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by reaper71

You Guys may want to think twice about the Spectre unit. I installed one on the 38 I'm finishing up with and it leaked out of the box!
Replaced the O ring,leaked the flange was not flat so I sanded flat and leaked worse! So it has been replaced.

Mark

Mark - what worked better for you?

[Advanced Design]

Thanks for heads up Mark.

Searching "LS thermostat housing straight" over on Jegs / Google / Summit pulls up a number of options.

[reaper71]

I searched online and found a nice one on ebay ( I needed a 45 degree style in the end) Ill get a pic and a link

Mark

[reaper71]

This is the style I went with.

These tend to be a pain in in backside to put on do to the O ring wanting to move, I ended up using some water proof sealant to hold it in place and hand tight the bolts, let sit for 1hr then torque to spec

[Scott2]

I just got new interior visors and brackets for Christmas - yeah! Now to install them... How the heck do you get the bracket rod inside the visor? I realize a tight fit is desirable, but these things are a serious interference fit! I cleaned the rod, even applied just a bit of oil at the front end and they were very hard to slide in even a couple of inches and won't go any further. I tried tapping the bent end of the rod near the three hole mounts but you can't put the visor against anything or you'll wreck the seam at the other end.

There has to be an easier way and I just haven't figured it out - right? Thanks!

[Scott2]

I’m still going thru the bazillion things to get the truck wired, plumbed, fully assembled, etc. As I get the headlight wiring in I bought some H4 headlights from LMC and i’m trying to stuff them in the stock buckets. You can see I had to cut the back of the inner bucket (?) out and the light goes in further but doesn’t seat.

Any words of wisdom on this? I found a note on the product review saying you may need to use 1st gen Camaro inner buckets with these lights?

[jocww]

Scott, I'm just starting my build with the tci chassis. I had them do the assembly for me, but obviously I have to disassemble it in order to paint it etc. Can you take some more pics of the gas tank for me please. I am in the process of mounting mine back there too. Trying to decide if I should weld up a skid pan, or maybe some square tubing and then do straps. Also did you have your rear c notched? I feel you on the exhaust, I wish they had made the front of the frame 2inches wider, I mean if your going to redesign a frame why not give us some more room!!!

[solidaxel]

Yes I have used the stock buckets BUT you do need a body saw to make them fit the new headlights

[lower50's]

I did this.

[jweb]

I used these H4 lights and they fit without any cutting.
https://www.amazon.com/Cibie-082440-...ds=Cibie+82440

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by jweb

I used these H4 lights and they fit without any cutting.
https://www.amazon.com/Cibie-082440-...ds=Cibie+82440

jweb - nice truck and I love the color! Thanks for the reminder on Cibie's! I used those a lot years ago rally racing and going off-road as well. Great lights. I decided to send the gianormous LMC lights back and will order the Cibie's.

Thank all!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by jocww

Scott, I'm just starting my build with the tci chassis. I had them do the assembly for me, but obviously I have to disassemble it in order to paint it etc. Can you take some more pics of the gas tank for me please. I am in the process of mounting mine back there too. Trying to decide if I should weld up a skid pan, or maybe some square tubing and then do straps. Also did you have your rear c notched? I feel you on the exhaust, I wish they had made the front of the frame 2inches wider, I mean if your going to redesign a frame why not give us some more room!!!

jocww - congrats on the chassis - I think it's an excellent choice. No C Notch - I am just going with a static drop and using the lowest setting for the coilovers to mount to.

Headers - yes you would think TCI would do a bump or clearance spot or something! My clearance channel works great.

Are you going with the chassis mounted booster? What motor? I had issues with the brake pedal scraping the floor and bumping into the head on my LQ4 motor. Switched to a firewall unit.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Gas tank pics attached - let me know if you need more. I used this tank and got the pump, pickup, Russell fuel line kit and corvette filter/reg from them as well:
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd114.htm

[Scott2]

jocww - one more - here's the filler neck approach I used, personally not a fan of the cap in the bed floor style as I know I will spill gas all over the bed. I routed the filler from the left side fender and down to the tank. I used the original filler removed from the cab, cut off the top part and clamped it in a filler hose (ignore the sliver tape - that's holding the hose sections together temporarily). I also welded a bracket on the filler and attached it to the fender with some old clutch head machine screws I had.

Do you have build pics to share?