Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by slotard

Nice. I could use a pair in that color, haven't seen one in a yard though.

hey bro, you're in Cali do you want this one, I will sell it to you for what I paid for it plus I will go pull the other one for you if it helps, I can always get another fender and if it saves you painting yours its a win win, I can even drive it out half way to your house

[Gregski]

OK got her buttoned up whilst listening to the Colts handle the Bengals on the radio

not perfect, but much cleaner, even wire brushed the manifold bolts, wish I knew how to keep them from rusting again cause painting bolts hasn't worked for me, the paint just twists right off as I install them, also wish some of these pictures came out better

[Gregski]

and this is just to compare how the passenger side exhaust manifold area looked like when I got the truck and how it looks today, a bit of improvement wouldn't you say

[68Timber]

You need to clear those bolts or paint them or something, they rust 10x quicker after being cleaned up w/a wire wheel.

[Jake Wade]

Looks better. Did you install new valve cover gaskets?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Looks better. Did you install new valve cover gaskets?

Yes back in October when I painted the valve covers. I special ordered these black rubber Mr. Gasket ones. This time I did not take them off although I fully planned on it cause I thought my oil leak was seeping out from the back of the passenger side valve cover, but I don't think that's the case. Now I am leaning towards the rear main seal as being the culprit as my bell housing is full of black oil and grime, not nice.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

You need to clear those bolts or paint them or something, they rust 10x quicker after being cleaned up w/a wire wheel.

I need to treat them for sure, still looking for a proper solution since I'm not a big fan of paint on the threads and I strip the paint off the heads as soon as I install them, so need something more better, like Eastwoods blackening dip kit.

[slotard]

New bolts are zinc coated in most cases. While they may be a little ugly after the decades, when you strip all the zinc off they get rusty fast like any unpainted steel.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by slotard

New bolts are zinc coated in most cases. While they may be a little ugly after the decades, when you strip all the zinc off they get rusty fast like any unpainted steel.

Yeah, I should have explained a little. I helped a friend freshen up the engine bay in a 78 Corvette he's had a loooong time and we did the same thing with all the bolts for the accessory brackets. Three months later they looked like crap and he had to redo them. Another member here found someone local to him that does the zinc plating, apparently it's fairly cheap to do. You might not care to go that far on this truck but I'd at least hit them with satin black or maybe header paint if you have some. Those will rust like they are.

[Chaplain]

Good reading. Nice chronicle.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Good reading. Nice chronicle.

thank you

[Gregski]

I decided I would clean up and decluter the engine bay a bit before bolting on my new intake, carb, and air cleaner, that way I won't get any of that old electrical tape glue and grime on the new shiny bits

so if I may borrow a term from the Import Crowd, I will be "deleting" the Transmission Controlled Spark System, TCS

say what?

The Transmission Controlled Spark System is used on all 10 Series vehicles, C-K20 suburban, G20 Series and G30 Sportvans when equipped with a manual transmission.

lucky me

so what does the TCS do?

Control of exhaust emitted by vehicles using the eight cylinder engines, is accomplished by eliminating ignition vaccum advance when the vehicle is operating in reverse, neutral or low forward gears

sounds great - lets get rid of it

[Gregski]

first we introduce the five usual suspects

TCS Time Relay, this bad boy hides behind the brake booster on the fire wall, I am just going to unscrew it, (one bolt) and leave it plugged in to the wiring harness which will be yanked out anyways

[Gregski]

next is the TCS Temperature Switch, this redundant temperature switch lives in the right cylinder head between the #6 and #8 exhaust ports (unlike it's much more useful cousin in the left cylinder head between #1 and #2 exhaust ports)

for now I will just unplug the single green wire from it and leave the temp switch in the head, sometime later on when I feel like draining the coolant (again) I will replace it with a nicer plug

[Gregski]

the TCS Vacuum Advance Solenoid sits in the front right of the intake manifold, next to the oil filler cap in the photos, both pictures show the same solenoid just from different angles as it is buried behind the heater core hoses

[Gregski]

the fourth component the TCS Idle Stop Solenoid attaches to the front of the carburetor, shiny bit in the photos, and is there to prevent dieseling

[Gregski]

the fifth and the final component is the TCS Transmission Switch located on the lower driver side of the transmission, I plan just to unplug it and leave it there

mine is grimmy but it should look something like this

[rusty76]

Thanks for the info!

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so if I may borrow a term from the Import Crowd, I will be "deleting" the Transctiption Controlled Spark System, TCS

In our neck of the woods, when we perform certain functions of a similar nature, sometimes involving the use of brass fittings in hot places... we call it "optimizing."

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by Gregski

... wish I knew how to keep them from rusting again cause painting bolts hasn't worked for me, the paint just twists right off as I install them, also wish some of these pictures came out better

Fluid Film. Good for a lot of things...
http://www.fluid-film.com/

[Gregski]

Four of the five Transcmission Controlled Spark System components (the Idle Stop Solenoid being the exception) hang off of the same wiring harness, which plugs in to a single brown wire on the firewall leading to the fuse block.

I was able to unplug the harness from all of them except for the Transmission Switch. It is simply impossible to see how it plugs in, and you have to feel up in there, so I am still unable to disconnect the one last final wire to be able to completely remove this wiring harness.

[Gregski]

The Idle Stop Solenoid connects to the fuse block using its own single brown wire

[Gregski]

I am one of those people who needs to know where things go, wants to know where they go and how they work, so i had to gently unwrap the crusty 40 year old wiring harness.

[Gregski]

I just like to see where these wires go, so here is the fuse block side getting unwrapped

[Gregski]

check out that Fusible Link, looks good right, wait till I unwrap the harness, all of a sudden it doesn't look so good