51' 3100 build in PA New to Site

[99 to Life]

daverod, I used an aftermarket 12v switch from classicparts.com it was like 34 bucks, headlight bulbs are 12v, they are like 7 bucks each I think. I had one go bad right out of the box though. I don't run any headlight relay, but I do have this weird problem that every once in a while all my lights will go out. If I mess with the switch they will come back on. It doesnt do it very often, so I have no idea what is really causing it. I use a dimmer switch on the floor which runs high and low beam, even have it wired into the gauges so the orange light lights up when your high beams are on. As for you ignition wire.... I have an aftermarket cylinder (the original ones aren't mean to roll the engine over with a turn of a key, they just connect the circuit and you'd use the foot start) you can get those switches at the auto part store. Ignition wire should wire into it. So you have the EZ wire 21 circuit harness?

[daverod]

thanks bud. I do have the 21 circuit one. I like the foot swith thing. Someone said to use heat sinks if i wanted to use the 6 volt headlight switch. I'm using it untill it burns up. I think I might see if I can use those headlights with the signials in the lights.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by daverod

thanks bud. I do have the 21 circuit one. I like the foot swith thing. Someone said to use heat sinks if i wanted to use the 6 volt headlight switch. I'm using it untill it burns up. I think I might see if I can use those headlights with the signials in the lights.

I'll fix the dizzy. Makes more since the right way.

[99 to Life]

5-17-12

Door locks. Well, I have searched tons of companies out there for bear claw latches. All I wanted to accomplish was using my original, turn down handles and be able to have keyless entry. Everyway I cut it I'd but around 250 and up price range. Weather I bought kits or things individually.

So I bought a keyless entry unit and accuators. This is my prototype bolt on dead bolt system. The whole unit will slide in the truck door, through the access panel, and will mount more towards the bottom of the door. All I should have to do is mark my pattern on my door, drill four parameter holes and the dead bolt hole, then just bolt it to the door. The only thing you will see is the four bolts on the door, everything else will be inside the door. Then just make a hole in the cab for the dead bolt to slide into.

I have yet to try this, but I feel like it should be pretty easy, as long as your doors line up. (which my drivers side door is not, big reason I want to lock it and get it to line up right). So that being said, I feel this little contraption should be good for anyone wanting keyless entry and to use their complete original door latch system. So I hope it works, I'll keep you posted.

[daverod]

looks like it should work. lots cheaper.

[oldcouple]

Instead of mounting it in the door, mount it in the rear jamb, then only a hole in the door, and no wires to run into the door.

[99 to Life]

yeah i thought about that, but I gotta see how i can get that in the door jam, ideally I would like to do it that way. Since my battery is behind the seat, I'm going to wire it directly to the battery because I usually cut the power via kill switch when I turn the truck off.

I'll keep you posted, thanks for the heads up.

[papas52]

great info ;thanks!! it helps so much !!! i have a ? i also have the ez wire 21 harness can i use the fuel &amp gauges on the 1952 chevy truck ,do i need to change anything for the new 12 volt system ;will the instrument lights work on the 12 volts ; &the signal-stat 700 work with the 12 volt system? thanks!!! papas52

[99 to Life]

papa52, the fuel gauge you will need a voltage reducer
http://www.classicparts.com/Fuel-Gauges/products/850/
http://www.classicparts.com/Bulbs/products/46/ (bulbs)

I replaced most of my instrument bulbs, I think one or two might have been from a 6v
and they work. The turn signal, I'm sure would work too. But you prolly need the wiring diagram for it to work with the ez kit. I had to contact ez a few times, sometimes it was impossible to reach tech support, but when I did they were helpful. Oh and I ended up using a an aftermarket turn switch that enabled 4 ways. So my turnsignals are 4 way bulbs. Lastly on the fuel gauge, that gauge will only read 30 ohm sending units, if you have an aftemarket tank, get a 30ohm gauge. I have read somewhere there is a converter for it if you have a 90ohm gauge though. Something that would make a lot of peoples lives a lot easier.

[daverod]

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/browse/.../090T.html:mm: had some reducing voltage stuff and stuff. and bulbs and stuff.

[papas52]

thanks !!! i think i will try the voltage reducer on the fuel gauage ; i think it will work on my s-10 fuel tank with electric pump . on the other gauage of the amp meter i wired it up and it works ,it showes charging and discharge as it should ,do i also need a voltage reducer on it as well so i do not mess any thing up? have not got intouch with ez wiring on the turn signal yet but will keep trying ! thanks !!! papas52

[98layinframe]

New guy around here and I just read through your entire thread this morning.. have to say LOVE the build! But also a small part of me hates you too, I'm also from pittsburgh area and no wonder i can't find any extra parts! you keep finding and buying up all them! Haha.
Posted via Mobile Device

[99 to Life]

papa, for your gas gauge, it needs power to operate which is now 12v system, but he gauge is for 6 volt, so that is where the reducer comes in. BUT it can't read a 90 ohm sending unit. SO power up your gauge, it will read full, for it to read your sending unit in your tank, it will require an ohm conversion of some sort. I have read somewhere briefly about it. But haven't researched since. I just got an aftermarket tank and sending unit. Your gauge fluxuates do to resistance, that is what the ohms is all about, reading resistance. The amp meter, I'm not sure about, I just hooked up a volt meeter. There is probably alot of info on what you did and if it works, I'm sure it will be fine.

98layinframe. Glad you like the build and yes envy is a strong feeling. Been there, but may it motivate you. if you have knowledge on s-10s you will be fine
working on your truck. If you go the swapping route. PM me and maybe I can come out and see what you got going on. my name is Henry

[98layinframe]

Yeah very true I'm jealous my trucks no where near drivable. My stock frame is in near perfect unmolested condition, so i think im going mustang II or just gonna clip it. Any chance you have any nice body parts you wanna sell?

What part of town you living? Im out little east of Monroeville.
Posted via Mobile Device

[99 to Life]

Just PM me what you are looking for. I'm right in the southside of pittsburgh, but my truck is up north 2 hours. I have some parts here I'm working on for my other truck. I'd def come out and see your project sometime. hit me up, I don't have anyone else in the city that I know that is into this stuff.

[99 to Life]

6-4-12

Door locks. Well I finally got the door locks in and wired up with keyless entry. All went pretty well, minus the accuators I got are faulty, but they still work. also my door just doesn't seem to shut for crap. I know it has had some damage in the past. I tried putting a new hinge in it and it helped but didn't cure the problem. I have some more adjusting to do.

Anyway, I did mount the accuator in the cab. worked out nice.

1951 Chevy Truck custom locks.MOV - YouTube

[daverod]

OK you talked me into it. Any part # or the place you bought it from would be good too.Simple but effective.

[99 to Life]

I got the accuator and keyless entry from rockyhinge.com, I've also talked to AVS as I like their remote better. But they kept selling me on needing relays. For an accuator you shouldn't need a relay. The total with shipping was around $130. You get two accuators for $50 and keyless entry for like 70.

The dealbolt system, I made from scratch. got all that stuff at Lowes.
If you doors shut good and your latches and springs in your handles are good
or you have push button doors, I think this kit would be good and cheap. If they shut like crap I'd go with bear claws.

[99 to Life]

6-9-12 Erie Car cruise

Took my 51' up to Erie Friday night for the Erie Cruise by the Bay show. I arrived late as hell and pretty much missed all of it. Seen a few decent rides but there just wasn't much at that point. Put about 125 miles on the truck and I recalculated my mpg's with the two separate trips. What I do is measure my tank its a 16g tank and 11.5" tall. So I drove 56 miles and used 2.5" of gas and then 65 miles and used 3" of gas. So say 3" goes into 11.5" 3.8 times. So times 65 miles by 3.8" and that is 250 miles per tank. Divide 250 miles by 16 gallons and that is 15.6mgp. These are approx numbers as of now. I'll do more testing. Last year I figured 12-13pmg. My next move will be fill it up and watch the gallons and drive 100 miles and refill. So I'll do actual gallons and also my measuring technique.

I'd like to welcome this 53' into my family as my brother inlaw just snagged it. I got to drive it about 50 miles, sooo sweet. Its all original minus the tires. I don't foresee any mods to this anytime soon. it's 3 on the tree.

[daverod]

You mean your truck does'nt have a thing on the dash that tells you what kinda milage you get every second your driving? Can't wait to put a hundred on mine. What kinda trans are you running?

[99 to Life]

I'm running an NV3500 5 speed. I'm around 2-2200 rpm at 65 mph roughly, running 3.42 gears, 2 piece driveshaft, 355 engine with stock 305 heads and isky .465 lift cam with 220/220 duration, eddy 600 cfm carb.

Gas, ha I wish. I friggin bought an aftermarket tank and sending unit so I could use my stock gas gauge and I still don't have it working. I had it somewhat working with another gauge I had on a bench test. I have some more fiddling to do with it. Basically I have a voltage reducer going to the gauges power and I have a ground going from the gauge to the sending unit, also grounded the sending unit to the battery.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

I'm running an NV3500 5 speed. I'm around 2-2200 rpm at 65 mph roughly, running 3.42 gears, 2 piece driveshaft, 355 engine with stock 305 heads and isky .465 lift cam with 220/220 duration, eddy 600 cfm carb.

Gas, ha I wish. I friggin bought an aftermarket tank and sending unit so I could use my stock gas gauge and I still don't have it working. I had it somewhat working with another gauge I had on a bench test. I have some more fiddling to do with it. Basically I have a voltage reducer going to the gauges power and I have a ground going from the gauge to the sending unit, also grounded the sending unit to the battery.

Sounds I like mine better. I do still have my old gage though.

[papas52]

great info !!! up date on my build , i drove it out of the shop for the first time and in my yard a little bit ,done good !! so glad i can move it around. still a lond way to go , but feels good to get it moving !! thanks for all the help !!! papas 52

[Wybrow]

Absolutely love this truck. Definitely one of my big motivators on here.

[99 to Life]

wybrow, thanks man def appreciate it. I started on my door logos finally so I'll be putting those photos up next week hopefully. Glad I could be of some motivation. I only work on my projects on weekends so it is very overwhelming and now I only have one day a week, if that sometimes. So just stick with it and it will pay off. I got another one I'm working on. I am painting it and keeping it a bit more original, but maybe trying to bag the rear and lower the front, not sure yet.