FITECH EFI 600 Basic and Command center intall with pics, factory tank

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

That's 6 one way half a Dozen the other. I used the fuel command center because I have the factory behind the seat and don't care to replace it. It is brand new. Now that being said if I had thevrear tank I would of went with either an inline pump or in tank pump. Yes they are louder but don't clutter up the engine bay. In reality with the FCC I now have two points of failure instead of one. Either my mechanical pump or electric pump could die. With an in line or tank you drop the mechainical which I am all about one less item to worry about. I don't see any issues in my near future but if I HAVE to put a rear tank in I will most likely ditch the FCC and go in tank. The FCC has never given me any issues other than overheating one time and that was my fault for not lowering the idle flow parameter. Once it cooled down and I set the parameters never another issue what so ever. This info is really only based on engine bay appearance!!! I might of been saying go FCC if I had the inline pump after hearing in whine forever. I will say in tank or FCC now that I think about how loud a in line is. All three have to have the return in the end.

But if you run an in-tank pump your return line can be a lot closer to the tank (assuming you would use the corvette style filter/regulator). Isn't the FiTech truly returnless if you don't have the command center or is there a return line coming back off the EFI unit itself? Its been a while already and can't remember.

The command center is just too darn big to hide under the hood and adds a lot of extra lines running up there (fuel supply to CC, fuel line from CC to EFI, vent/return line).

[steveo3318]

Fitech body has a return line on the rear for use with either intank or in line

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

Fitech body has a return line on the rear for use with either intank or in line

I remembered extra fittings on the TBI unit. Do you have to use a return if you run the corvette regulator?

I don't like the extra plumbing of return lines- more places to leak. I made sure my LS was new enough to have the returnless fuel system. I believe 03 and earlier require it.

[steveo3318]

I am not up to date nor have I ever heard about a corvette regulator. I have never researched it so I cannot elaborate

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

I am not up to date nor have I ever heard about a corvette regulator. I have never researched it so I cannot elaborate

If you are running an in-tank/inline pump, its an easy way to regulate your pressure. It feeds fuel at 58 psi forward and sends the rest back to the tank via a return line.

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd425.htm

I'm going to run one with my boyds welding tank and aeromotive pump.

[steveo3318]

I can see this working with ease without using the return off the efi body. The FCC is the same exact principle return wise. The only true reason for the return is pressure build up and heat. I like that idea��

[AnotherWs6]

Originally Posted by NC_John

You do have to run a return line if you run the command center. If the float sticks in the command center it will overflow fuel from the cc tank and out the vent (to wherever you have that going). If you have it going to the ground instead of back to the tank, on a long enough drive you could theoretically pump your entire fuel tank out on the street (and that is if it doesn't catch on fire under the hood).

That pissed me off immensely when I did mine because of how they advertise it as a "returnless" system.

This. I get the need for it now thinking about it, but it really does a lot to defeat the "simpleness" of the FCC and system in general.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by AnotherWs6

This. I get the need for it now thinking about it, but it really does a lot to defeat the "simpleness" of the FCC and system in general.

Thats what turned me off the FCC and somewhat soured me on FiTech when I started researching. I want to keep the in cab tank, and with my 1970 I don't have a return or a vent on the tank, its vented through the cap.

When I discussed with Fi Tech they were less than helpful and downright rude at one point, telling me I should just "get the bomb out of the cab anyways".

From my conversations with them the vent back to the tank needs to be above the fuel level. When my tank is full, even a later factory return style sender has the return below the fuel level. To do it the way they want it done, the only good way is to swap in a later EEC tank, which defeats the purpose of an easy install all over again.

So thus far I have done nothing.

[Tdrcreyn4]

subbed

[steveo3318]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

Thats what turned me off the FCC and somewhat soured me on FiTech when I started researching. I want to keep the in cab tank, and with my 1970 I don't have a return or a vent on the tank, its vented through the cap.

When I discussed with Fi Tech they were less than helpful and downright rude at one point, telling me I should just "get the bomb out of the cab anyways".

From my conversations with them the vent back to the tank needs to be above the fuel level. When my tank is full, even a later factory return style sender has the return below the fuel level. To do it the way they want it done, the only good way is to swap in a later EEC tank, which defeats the purpose of an easy install all over again.

So thus far I have done nothing.

I have the EEC 72 tank in my 72 which was only vented one way. But it does have the return up high on the passenger side. This is where I ran my return from my FCC. I did end up venting my tank right above the filler neck. Works like a charm.

[Lancialonnie]

I was all set to order the FCC to get started putting an FITech system together, that way I could run the vent tubing and wiring and have the fuel system ready to go. But then I read about needing to have a vented fuel cap and now I'm not sure what to do. I have an under bed tank with a rollover valve that I am planning on tying the return line to but, I have the boat type fuel cap that threads in (comes with a fork like key to open) and it is not vented. Do they make these in vented caps or would I need to go with a different fuel cap?

[steveo3318]

Originally Posted by Lancialonnie

I was all set to order the FCC to get started putting an FITech system together, that way I could run the vent tubing and wiring and have the fuel system ready to go. But then I read about needing to have a vented fuel cap and now I'm not sure what to do. I have an under bed tank with a rollover valve that I am planning on tying the return line to but, I have the boat type fuel cap that threads in (comes with a fork like key to open) and it is not vented. Do they make these in vented caps or would I need to go with a different fuel cap?

Drill and tap a hole in the top use a sealant or reflow tape

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by NC_John

You do have to run a return line if you run the command center. If the float sticks in the command center it will overflow fuel from the cc tank and out the vent (to wherever you have that going). If you have it going to the ground instead of back to the tank, on a long enough drive you could theoretically pump your entire fuel tank out on the street (and that is if it doesn't catch on fire under the hood).

That pissed me off immensely when I did mine because of how they advertise it as a "returnless" system.

Damn, that is why i was asking, it says "returnless" so .... oh well. Thanks for the clarification.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Lancialonnie

I was all set to order the FCC to get started putting an FITech system together, that way I could run the vent tubing and wiring and have the fuel system ready to go. But then I read about needing to have a vented fuel cap and now I'm not sure what to do. I have an under bed tank with a rollover valve that I am planning on tying the return line to but, I have the boat type fuel cap that threads in (comes with a fork like key to open) and it is not vented. Do they make these in vented caps or would I need to go with a different fuel cap?

i have my tank in the bed also and I have the same style cap, but mine has a vent built into the tank that i ran to the back of the truck, so the tank is vented and I think that is the important part. So i will run a new vent line all the way back to this vent line and tee into it so the FCC is vented. I assume this work.

[AnotherWs6]

Well I have a whole system and FCC in a box downstairs in my basement. Came across it used and couldn't resist. Any ideas about how to vent this thing on a Suburban?

[Lancialonnie]

My under bed tank is vented with a roll over valve on the end of a vent hose that is higher than the tank. My plan was to Tee into this vent line with the FCC return line so it will just drain back into the tank. I'm thinking this should work, what do you all think? Maybe I'll call FITECH and see what they say. I don't want a vented cap in the bed ofy truck, if vapors can get out water can get in.

[GR8-68]

Here is a 67-72 kit with the tank from CPP

http://www.ebay.com/itm/63-72-C10-Tr...xX7FIs&vxp=mtr

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

I have the EEC 72 tank in my 72 which was only vented one way. But it does have the return up high on the passenger side. This is where I ran my return from my FCC. I did end up venting my tank right above the filler neck. Works like a charm.

Yeah, I can't do that with my tank. No port on the filler neck and no way to install one without welding, and I'm not welding on a tank that has fuel residue in it.

And the tank is only a couple of years old, so I'm not real interested in replacing it.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by AnotherWs6

Well I have a whole system and FCC in a box downstairs in my basement. Came across it used and couldn't resist. Any ideas about how to vent this thing on a Suburban?

Here is how I understand it.


The FCC needs a vent. Otherwise it would vapor lock. The problem is is the float in the FCC ever malfunctions, it could send fuel out the vent. So they want the vent plumbed into tank like a return line. The vent needs to be above the fuel level.

I'm not all that familiar with the Suburbans, but if the tank is like most under-body tanks the sending unit should be on the top of the tank. So all you would need to do is remove the sender, drill a hole and either install a bulkhead fitting or weld on a nipple to the sender to attach the vent.

I could do the same on my pickup, but when the tank is full the whole sender is below the level of the fuel in the tank, and according to FiTech thats no good.

So I'm left with the external pump and return option. My concern there is fuel slosh when cornering since the stock tank is not baffled. I'm worried it will sputter when the pickup is uncovered. I think one of those fuel pickup mats from Holley might fix that issue, but I haven't decided to pull the trigger yet. And I have a perfectly good running carb, so spending the $$$ hasn't been a priority yet. Kinda waiting to see more people with some miles on the FiTech to make my decision, and I'm also interested in the new Holley kit.

[LEEVON]

In my '50 chevy I have FiTech and a bone stock cab fuel tank. I returned the line from a corvette filter regulator on the frame back to the stock tank by using the sending unit. The tank is bottom-feed, so I bought a sending unit that has a feed tube, and made a hard line into the cab and right into the sending unit and into the tank. The same could be accomplished by brazing or even a bulkhead fitting in a 67-72 tank sending unit and you wouldn't need a bottom-feed line. Or, get a new tank, weld a bung in the bottom and feed the fuel from there, using the stock sending unit feed line as a return. Not too much money into it that way. I also created a tank vent for pressure and vacuum in the filler neck, down to a filter (for vapor) inside the frame after finding out from three vented caps that none of them could move enough air volume. Yeah, they don't like to be run out of fuel, but neither does a carb...same deal, when you're out your out (found out the hard way already).

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

In my '50 chevy I have FiTech and a bone stock cab fuel tank. I returned the line from a corvette filter regulator on the frame back to the stock tank by using the sending unit. The tank is bottom-feed, so I bought a sending unit that has a feed tube, and made a hard line into the cab and right into the sending unit and into the tank. The same could be accomplished by brazing or even a bulkhead fitting in a 67-72 tank sending unit and you wouldn't need a bottom-feed line. Or, get a new tank, weld a bung in the bottom and feed the fuel from there, using the stock sending unit feed line as a return. Not too much money into it that way. I also created a tank vent for pressure and vacuum in the filler neck, down to a filter (for vapor) inside the frame after finding out from three vented caps that none of them could move enough air volume. Yeah, they don't like to be run out of fuel, but neither does a carb...same deal, when you're out your out (found out the hard way already).

Yeah, I can do a return that way easy. Some of the later sending units have a return built into them (72 I think). But according to FiTech, that's no good for the vent on the FCC.

I think its been confused a little on this thread between the vent and the return.

The FCC needs a vent, not a return. But they want it vented into the air space above the fuel in the tank "in case". You could just vent it to air, but there is a chance of spilling fuel.

If you do the external pump, you need a return somewhere, whether from the throttle body or use the corvette regulator.

I like the idea of the FCC because it gives me a small "fuel cell" up front that stops the issues associated with fuel slosh in the stock tank. But I don't have a good way of venting that thing to the tank that meets what FiTech says I should have without buying a new tank. The one I have is already new, just not interested in doing it again.

At least with a carb you have the fuel in the bowl. The stock setup will suck air occasionally but the carb isn't as sensitive to it because of the small reserve in the bowl. If you suck air with injection you get a sputtering engine, because there is no reserve. Air in the line means air into the injector.

So I could do your setup pretty easy-----and I still might. I'd probably do a bulkhead fitting into the sending unit I have.

I've been reading a lot about these Holley hydramats: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...mat/hydramats/

I think adding one of them to the pickup would fix the potential fuel slosh issues.

But just when I had my plan together Holley came out with their low cost fuel injection, so now I'm kind of waiting to see more reviews on that before I make a decision.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

Yeah, I can do a return that way easy. Some of the later sending units have a return built into them (72 I think). But according to FiTech, that's no good for the vent on the FCC.

I think its been confused a little on this thread between the vent and the return.

The FCC needs a vent, not a return. But they want it vented into the air space above the fuel in the tank "in case". You could just vent it to air, but there is a chance of spilling fuel.

If you do the external pump, you need a return somewhere, whether from the throttle body or use the corvette regulator.

I like the idea of the FCC because it gives me a small "fuel cell" up front that stops the issues associated with fuel slosh in the stock tank. But I don't have a good way of venting that thing to the tank that meets what FiTech says I should have without buying a new tank. The one I have is already new, just not interested in doing it again.

At least with a carb you have the fuel in the bowl. The stock setup will suck air occasionally but the carb isn't as sensitive to it because of the small reserve in the bowl. If you suck air with injection you get a sputtering engine, because there is no reserve. Air in the line means air into the injector.

So I could do your setup pretty easy-----and I still might. I'd probably do a bulkhead fitting into the sending unit I have.

I've been reading a lot about these Holley hydramats: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...mat/hydramats/

I think adding one of them to the pickup would fix the potential fuel slosh issues.

But just when I had my plan together Holley came out with their low cost fuel injection, so now I'm kind of waiting to see more reviews on that before I make a decision.

I think the FCC is just another component that could fail, is ugly under the hood and adds a LOT of extra plumbing. I didn't have problems with mine but was anxious to get rid of it. (Went LS prior to that happening).

Since I still had the in-cab tank, I bought a 71/72 float assembly for my 70 and used that extra line (vent? Can't remember) for my FCC vent/return line. I just cut it short inside and looped it up to keep it higher than the gas level in a full tank.

Optimal? Not sure. But seemed to work ok.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I think the FCC is just another component that could fail, is ugly under the hood and adds a LOT of extra plumbing. I didn't have problems with mine but was anxious to get rid of it. (Went LS prior to that happening).

Since I still had the in-cab tank, I bought a 71/72 float assembly for my 70 and used that extra line (vent? Can't remember) for my FCC vent/return line. I just cut it short inside and looped it up to keep it higher than the gas level in a full tank.

Optimal? Not sure. But seemed to work ok.

Good to hear that it worked.

I can see your point that its another item to fail.