Project 1966 K20 adventure rig

[72cs20]

Today was weigh-in day. Drove over to the local scale and weighed in at 5500 lbs. That's with me in the seat, full 31 gallon gas tank and the truck as shown in the pic below. Add another 100 lbs for the bed floor boards and headboard cover. This truck has a GVWR of 7500 lbs. That leaves 2400lbs for the build out to travelling weight. One of the goals is to keep the weight below the GVWR.

There is now 208 miles on the odometer. Braking, steering and overall handling are excellent. It's a good driver.
The driveline vibration mentioned a few posts ago is solved. Turns out the linkage for the front axle shift lever was binding up enough to not dis-engage the front output shaft. Re-adjusted that linkage and now smooth over 50mph. I also finished up my pinion/driveshaft issue with some 2 degree shims under the rear springs and a CV joint at the transfer case end of the driveshaft.

So far, overall, everything is working well. Still needs some tweaks here and there. Nothing major though.

[bsarts]

Congratulations on your accomplishment! That's a beautiful truck.

[The Rocknrod]

Nice work.

[layinrocker65]

How’s that overdrive box working? Project looks awesome.

[72cs20]

To everyone who has commented, complimented and suggested. A big thank you! It's all good for the motivation!

Will definitely be re-visiting the brush guard fit up.

About the overdrive. I'm not going to call it a resounding success but it does do what it is suppose to do. The truck will run 65mph at about 2300 rpm. This is with 4.10 gears and 31.5 tires. So that part is good.

On the downside it is noisy. I had heard these had some gear whine and now I can personally attest to this. Thankfully it isn't too bad in 4th gear, the most used.

It leaks where it mates to the main tranny. I followed the instructions very carefully and that's where I messed up. Silicone is used and I should have used more than the instructions called for. They called for a "paper thin film" but this is not adequate. A quarter inch bead would be more suitable. So now I have to disconnect the tranny and move it back far enough to clean the mating surfaces and apply a proper amount of silicone to keep it from leaking.

But, back to the details of re-assembly. Today I re-installed the radiator overflow tank and the windshield washer reservoir with all their plumbing. Just need to wire up the washer pump.

[The Rocknrod]

That radiator, who makes that one?

[joesscamaro]

Your rig is looking awesome and congrats on putting miles on it. I'm sure it's a good feeling!

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

That radiator, who makes that one?

That is from Cold Case Radiators.

Thanks Joesscamaro.

[bsarts]

If you tear it down to reseal that overdrive, don't use silicon again, use an anaerobic sealer like Locktite's gasket maker. Smear it around with your finger, not too thick.

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by bsarts

If you tear it down to reseal that overdrive, don't use silicon again, use an anaerobic sealer like Locktite's gasket maker. Smear it around with your finger, not too thick.

Thank you for for that tip. I actually did use the Locktite version for gear oil applications. Silicone is the term they use generically in the instructions. So, I either did it wrong or didn't use enough and now there is a drip. It's very slow. But because I hate leaks so much, I'll need to get this done sooner than later.

[350TacoZilla]

I'm not sure if I'm surprised the weight isn't more or isn't less lol. 5500lb sounds heavy vs what these trucks in 2wd form normally weigh but almost seems like it should weigh more with the bigger 3\4t 4x4 running gear, sm465,OD and transfercase. Either way I'm happy your getting close to just being able to jump in it and go here soon.

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla

I'm not sure if I'm surprised the weight isn't more or isn't less lol. 5500lb sounds heavy vs what these trucks in 2wd form normally weigh but almost seems like it should weigh more with the bigger 3\4t 4x4 running gear, sm465,OD and transfercase. Either way I'm happy your getting close to just being able to jump in it and go here soon.

I was hoping it would come in around 5k. But now 5500 seems about right since everything I put back into this truck is bigger and heavier than stock. And now the truck is at the point where I'm confident I can hop in and use it for everyday transportation. It isn't finished, but certainly functional and useable.

This last week I got a few more things crossed off the whiteboard. Dressed up some wiring behind the dash, dove into the winch and made a more permanent attachment for the mud flaps.

I bought the winch inoperable years ago but these 8274's don't generally catastrophically fail. It is usually corrosion on wiring connections or one or more of the relay's go bad. So I installed a new updated relay and wiring kit and now it is a working unit. Now I just need to decide whether to use wire rope or synthetic for the winch line.

I had the mud flaps temporarily hung with eye hooks and threaded links. The flaps would fly up in the wind and the links were noisy going down the road. Now they are bolted to some welded in angle. They shouldn't fly around or make any racket while driving.

[Captainfab]

Is that relay update for the winch a kit or did you assemble it yourself?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Is that relay update for the winch a kit or did you assemble it yourself?

It came as a kit from winchserviceparts.com. I bought it at least 5 years ago and there are some deficiencies.

My kit did not come with the nuts for the large posts on the relays. It did come with the small nuts for the new 5 wire remote plug pigtail.

The cable that goes from the relay pack to the F2 post on the motor was too short. I had to re-use the old one.

The new relay pack mounting plate is different. The new one does not allow the positive battery lead to enter the relay pack from the back, like the old plate does. Now the positive lead has to come in over the top of the motor. So now there is about a foot difference in length between the negative and positive cables at the battery end.

Does not come with new boots for the three post connections on the top of the motor. The boots on this winch are in great shape, so I was able to re-use them.

Hope this was helpful.

[Captainfab]

Thanks for the info

[72cs20]

Another task off the whiteboard - the bed floor. Eight 1/4-20 self tapping screws per board with liberal amounts of anti seize on the threads.

For the head board I used a piece of 1/2 inch plywood that I had on hand. I wanted to use some expanded metal but the prices for materials, like steel, are absurd. The plywood will do for now.

[350TacoZilla]

The bed looks good man, the headboard can be updated at a later date for sure. So where is first trip to again? Alaska? lol

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla

The bed looks good man, the headboard can be updated at a later date for sure. So where is first trip to again? Alaska? lol

Thanks.

A 6 to 8 week road trip through western Canada and Alaska is the ultimate goal. But prices for used pop up campers are crazy high. Even 20 year old units needing work are 9k and up. No thanks! So I'm seriously thinking about building my own unit. Something comfortable to sleep two. Made out of wood, 12vdc power and lpg heat. Nothing too fancy.

But in the meantime I'm putting the truck to work. Got a little side job doing some erosion control terrace work. Went to the lumber yard to pick up the material.

Also filled up the fuel tank and got a calculation of 10.5 mpg for the last tankful. 400 miles now on the new engine so hopefully the mpg's will get a little better as it breaks in.

[72cs20]

Not much progress on the to-do-list the last week or two. But I started looking at what to do about the front leaf springs. With the weight of the front bumper and winch, the front end is sagging a bit

The old front springs had an extra leaf to compensate for the very heavy pto winch present when I took ownership. I wasn't sure I would need to do anything to the new springs with the electric winch, but it looks like they'll need some help.

Then I got to thinking maybe I'll do something to level out the stance a little more as well. I got out the jack and jack stands and played around with some various heights. I think I've settled on a 4 inch lift on the front. And this will still leave a slight rake to compensate for load.

The first pic is stock and is 22 inches to the bottom of the winch fairlead. The other two pics are 26 inches to bottom of fairlead.

I'm going to start calling around to see if I can get stock type springs made with to provide the extra height I'm looking for.

Any thoughts?

[350TacoZilla]

I cant remember here, was there a reason you didn't want to go to the 73+ style for off the shelf options? I have no issues with calling a local place for a custom pack but usually cheaper to go with off the shelf and makes it easier down the rd (or on the rd) for replacements.

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla

I cant remember here, was there a reason you didn't want to go to the 73+ style for off the shelf options? I have no issues with calling a local place for a custom pack but usually cheaper to go with off the shelf and makes it easier down the rd (or on the rd) for replacements.

One reason is that the suspension on these trucks work very well when in good condition. I knew I was going to completely go through everything, so it was easier to keep it stock. The stock type springs are still readily available.

I did look at updating to the 73+ front springs, but it looks like there would need to be modifications made to the bell housing crossmember. Or it would need to be removed. And the brake plumbing for the right front wheel runs along that crossmember. And honestly, at this point in the project, I'm not too motivated to make any big changes.

It's a good question though. I've always considered this an evolving project. The future may see an engine/transmission change and an opportunity to re-visit the front suspension.

So I did call around locally about spring work. Using my springs, it would cost about one thousand bucks. That's for re-arching and adding leaves. I said no thanks.

Fortunately, I kept the old front springs. I dis-assembled them and picked the secondary main leaf and the added leaf that installed years ago. The secondary main leaf has a military wrap at the front which I cut off. I cleaned and painted them. Then I removed the springs from the truck and dis-assembled them. Then I inserted the leaves from the old springs into the new and now had my own custom spring pack! They came out well. In the pics you can see the difference between the stock pack and the modified one

Now the front springs have a slight positive arch and provided 2 1/2 inches of lift. I think it looks just right.

[350TacoZilla]

Looks good man and doing it yourself is pretty satisfying I bet. I can't believe local shop wanted that much, cheaper to buy all new at that point! Makes you wonder how they stay in business if that's their rates just for a re-arch and add a leaf (or two). I have often made Frankenstein packs for my trucks to try and tune the ride vs hauling ability but have also had local place re-arch my springs for I think $100-150 but that was 10 years ago by now lol.

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla

Looks good man and doing it yourself is pretty satisfying I bet. I can't believe local shop wanted that much, cheaper to buy all new at that point! Makes you wonder how they stay in business if that's their rates just for a re-arch and add a leaf (or two). I have often made Frankenstein packs for my trucks to try and tune the ride vs hauling ability but have also had local place re-arch my springs for I think $100-150 but that was 10 years ago by now lol.

Quite satisfying indeed! Nice to re-use old parts and a few hours of time. I did need to install new longer travel shocks. The ride is firm and solid but not jarring. This old truck rides way better than my 2017 F-250.

Still working on and making adjustments to the little things. I made up a set of new spark plug wires to replace the old cobbled together set. Smoother running engine now.

The parts house engine fan clutch decided to fail in the locked mode. Amazing how loud it is in the cab with a locked fan clutch. It got replaced with a severe service Hayden unit.

Made an adjustment to the accelerator linkage at the throttle body throttle lever. Drilled a new hole a little higher on the throttle lever for a more smooth transition off idle. Much improved drivability.

And I finally dealt with the lack of brake adjustment slots on the brake backing plate of this 14 bolt axle. Drilled and slotted new holes and installed plugs. And I discovered that I had put an left side brake shoe adjuster in the right side. Sheesh!

Just another week of working through the to-do list to ensure a good driving classic. Not real exciting and thanks for reading and following along.

[72cs20]

The holidays and wet weather are gone so back to working on the truck.

I figured it was about time to get rid of that blue tape and patch the old gas filler neck hole. Done!

To enhance the usefulness of the bed, I attached some stake pockets and made side boards. Been doing a lot of hauling and test drives to accumulate miles. 662 miles now showing and no catastrophes yet.

In an effort to decrease the gear whine from the overdrive I drained the GL-5 75-90 oil and re-filled with Red-Line GL-4 MT-90. Noticeably less whine in 4th gear overdrive on the highway. It could still be very annoying on long trips however. We'll see how it goes.

With the bed deck, side boards and tie down gear in the drivers side storage box, the weight is now up to 5860 lbs.

[350TacoZilla]

As long as its not a mechanical fault causing noise what about another layer of sound deadening on underside of trans tunnel area or small shield around the OD unit itself with a layer on it?