Project: Custom 71 4x4 hotrod

[silver7]

It's been crazy busy the past month but I've been able to do a little bit of work on the truck. Should be able to get busy now with the weather forcing us in the garage and my son's baseball team finishing their fall season.

Had my hub replacements and a small portion of my spindles powdercoated black. Also ordered new needle bearings, seals and studs for my spindle. Everything I read said guys had a lot of trouble getting the old spindle needle bearings out so I solicited the help of my buddy Ronny at R&B Machine Shop in High Point, NC. He had them out in about 5 min. I pressed the replacements in myself and they went in very easy. The problems came when I pressed the studs onto the knuckle and tried to align the spindle on the knuckle. After damaging a few stud threads I realized this wasn't the best way. I ended up having to remove the studs, align the steering knuckle holes with the sindle holes and press them in gently that way. Waiting on my replacement studs so I can finish the job.

Also lamented over whether to buy a new front axle or not. As with the majority of my fellow forum board buddies out there my front axle and u-joints were caked with 40 years on junk. In addition, I'm a stickler on safety so I felt buying a new one was the right thing to do. The problem is you can't buy a new axle set (4 pieces) from a known company for less than $450. Add in the new super U-joints ($300+) and you are pushing close to a $1K - money I wasn't expecting to spend. After the sting wore off a bit I decided to pull the trigger. A new lifetime warranty chomoly Yukon axle with super U-joints from Randy's Ring and Pinion should be here Monday. This will mean my entire front and rear ends will have new and stronger parts inside and out - pretty much the best $ can buy (Richmond, Moser and Yukon).

I was also trying to complete my rear disc brake conversion/installation when I discovered the rotor would not fit inside the calipers. My supplier thought he may have sent me the wrong pads (too thick) so he sent me some replacements. Unfortunately, these were only slightly thinner so no dice - again. I am waiting on a corrective action from my supplier but I think I was sent the wrong calipers because I do not see how the rotors can fit. My new slotted and drilled rotors are 1 1/4" thick just like other truck rotors so I think it has to be the calipers.

Recently I have been in discussions with Jody's Transmissions in PA about building me one of the new Advanced Adapter M22 Muncie 4 speeds. The attached photot is from a recent build he completed on a M22 Muncie for a 4x4. I was able to sell my auto tranny set-up to D. Passmore so this looks like the route I'll go. I know running a Muncie 4 speed on a 4x4 is a relatively uncommon approach on this forum board but I've done my research and I really excited about it. Apparently there is a local 4x4 club there who runs these with there custom set-ups with great success. As I learn more on this I'll post updates.

Hopefully I can have my front and rear ends back together within the week. I really want to start work on the engine soon so I can have it and the tranny on my frame early next year.

[Permafrost]

I've been following this build for quite some time now; even before I joined the forum. Lurking-no-longer, I do have to say what a fantastic build!
I like the idea of the M22-4x4, I'll be paying particular attention if you go that route....

.

[silver7]

Thanks Permafrost. I appreciate you subscribing to my thread. And glad to hear I'm not the only one who likes the direction this build is going.

[silver7]

I also received my new Warn premium locking hubs. Just couldn't bring myself to put the old set on it. Should add a nice touch when I get the front end together.

[silver7]

Hey fellas I need some help. As Conroe recommended I think with some of my highly visible bolts I want to go stainless. I am ready to start putting my steering stabilizer together and thought stainless U-bolts would be a nice touch. Do any of you know where I can buy some stainless U-bolts for it? The pic below shows how the shocks attach to the center axle housing bracket and two outside tie rod brackets. I need 4ea to fit over my 1 1/4" dia tie rod and 2ea to fit over my 2 3/4" dia axle housing. I think I found a company which will make them to order but not sure if they will do stainless, besides I'm sure a custom order will cost a lot more than a company out there who already makes these to stock or if there is a kit I can buy.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[msgross]

NV4500/np205 tranny setup would be nice too....

[1985-GMC]

I think it would be fairly easy to make some stainless u bolts if you can find some long stainless bolts with about 2" of threads or less, cut the head off, thread the other end then bend the center.

[k5xjfiles]

Subscribed!! Awesome project...

[silver7]

Good idea. I'll keep that in mind if I can't find any already made. Thanks.

[silver7]

My Yukon Chrome Moly axle, super joints and 12 bolt yoke order arrived last night. Problem is they sent me OEM U-joints and a cast OEM yoke.

[silver7]

Guys - I need some advice. I got my axle w/ U-joints together and was trying to get my knuckle with spindle mounted but could not get the top ball joint into the axle housing yoke. How is this usually done? It seems like the top ball joint is in the way - was I supposed to install this after the axle was installed through the knuckle?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Shawn

[silver7]

Powerdriver 1958 got me straight. I had to remove my spindle from the knuckle and insert the axle through the hole. The grease fittings had to be removed from the U-joint due to clearance issues. Other than that and some finessing of the bolts went on fairly easy.

[Dieselwrencher]

Do you have the inner bearing and seal on the inner spindle for a reason, mock up or something?

[freakshow108]

Silver7, love the progress, its coming along nicely! What are you doing for the rear brake lines now that you have disc's? ive done the same with mine and have an idea on how to run them but would love to see your design. ive installed a stainless set of lines from inline but will have to modify the rear lines for the new callipers, just wondering how you will accomplish this on yours. thanks for any help and keep up the work, its looking bada@$!

[silver7]

Thanks for the kind words Freakshow. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten to my purchasing my brake lines yet. I figured I would probably buy a stainless kit from one of the top 3 suppliers. What did you have to modify to match your rear calipers?

[freakshow108]

so far i am only in the planning stage. im leaning towards having a local shop make up some stainless braided lines and adapt them to the hard lines that came in my kit. ill keep you posted with some pics if available.

[silver7]

Anyone know where I can buy a new front brake dust shield for 71 K10? LMC only carries them for C10 and can't seem to find them anywhere for K10. Napa does not carry them either. I'm going to try car-part.com and if that doesn't work try pull-a-part.

[1985-GMC]

Try classicindustries.com. It looks like you need either G3117(RH) or G3118(LH), Here's the left one: http://www.classicindustries.com/con...&currentPage=1 , I couldn't get the other one to show up so you might need to call them if that's the one you need. I took a picture from my catalog so you can see all the ones they had listed.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by 1985-GMC

Try classicindustries.com. It looks like you need either G3117(RH) or G3118(LH), Here's the left one: http://www.classicindustries.com/con...&currentPage=1 , I couldn't get the other one to show up so you might need to call them if that's the one you need. I took a picture from my catalog so you can see all the ones they had listed.

Dude, this is perfect. Thanks!

[1985-GMC]

Originally Posted by silver7

Dude, this is perfect. Thanks!

Your welcome! Are yours the real thick ones that are a dust shield/ disc brake mounts all in one?

[Dieselwrencher]

Hey guys, have any of you thought about zinc plating your u-bolts? We used to do that to lifted trucks that might see show time.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Hey guys, have any of you thought about zinc plating your u-bolts? We used to do that to lifted trucks that might see show time.

I was considering that as an alternative but definately prefer stainless if I can figure out how to make it work. Thanks.

[silver7]

Yes they are!

[silver7]

70BLAZERx2 sold me a good set of front brake dust covers off a 73 K10 so I should be good to go after thanksgiving.

[silver7]

Thanks. Here are some updates.

Rear brakes - The rear brake conversion kit originally came with 'plain Jane' rotors but I wanted drilled and slotted rotors. Eventually I talked the guy into selling me the kit for $200 with calipers, pads, brackets and misc hardware - minus the rotors. I then bought my drilled and slotted rotors only to discover the rotors were too thick. After trying thinner pads and speaking with him we discovered his kit rotors were 1.0" thick and mine were 1.25" thick. I was able to exchange my Summit rotors for Power Stops (drilled but not slotted), due a little sanding on my pads and everything came together.

Front Hub assembly - I bought new Yukon Chrome Moly Alloy axles and super U-joints and installed them. Powdercoated my spindles and hub, installed the bearings and races and went to install and realized I forgot my brake dust cover/caliper brackets. My originals were shot so I bought a set of the thicker set from a 73 K10. These have been received and are awaiting sand blasting and paint. When completed I can finish assembling my front end.

Engine - Block is getting hot tanked over the weekend. Plan to epoxy primer it when I paint my other parts so it will be clean and ready for engine pre-assembly when I shift off the chassis.

12 bolt pinion yoke - Bought a forged 12 bolt pinion yoke from Yukon since it is now the weak point in my rear-end set-up.

Steering gear - One of the few original parts I plan to reuse. Drained, degreased and wire wheeled it this week. Got one of the pitman-arm pullers from O'Reillys and plan to remove the pitman arm this weekend.

Tie-rod and steering stabilizer stainless U-bolts - I discovered Totally Stainless sells custom made U-bolts (page 3 of catalog). I plan to measure what I need and order them once I get my hub, pitman arm, tie-rod and tires installed.

Painting - I already have some base Honda Rio Red and bought some single stage Kirker Jet Black. As soon as possible I plan to prime, base and clear my engine (epoxy prime for now), transfer case (epoxy prime), steering gear (black), pitman arm (black), pinion yoke (black), front brake caliper brackets (black), and front and rear brake calipers (red). Unfortunately, I haven't bought my new Autogear Muncie M22W 4-speed yet. But I'll probably paint my engine, transmission and transfer case the same color as my exterior truck color once I decide what that will be. The 2011 Harley Davidson Cool Blue is a color I am considering. D. Passmore bought my TH350 transmission so he should be picking that up in the next month or two.