Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[theastronaut]

I've been thinking about the interior of the truck ever since I started working on the column, wheel and gauges. I'm kind of torn between fully redoing the interior, or just cleaning the original paint and seat and leaving it as is. As mentioned in the start of the thread, there is some rust in the kick panel area so I'll already be doing some metal/body/paint work inside the cab. I also want to add sound deadener under the floor of the cab, so I'll be sandblasting already as well. I'm gunna have a hard time replicating the texture of the dash board, which kinds makes me want to leave it alone. The fawn paint is badly stained though from the original owner smoking in it for so many years. The original seat is in great shape, but isn't quite nice enough to fit in with new paint. It's at the point where it isn't quite as nice as the outside if the truck, so I'm leaning more towards completely redoing everything inside. I really really love the way the interior in the blue '65 I restored turned out- it's probably my favorite part of the whole truck, and it would be awesome to have Goldilocks lookin that good inside. What are you guys thinking? Should I leave it original and just super clean/detail what's there, or go full tilt resto on it?

Here's a pic of the '65s interior.


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[likaroc13]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I've been thinking about the interior of the truck ever since I started working on the column, wheel and gauges. I'm kind of torn between fully redoing the interior, or just cleaning the original paint and seat and leaving it as is. As mentioned in the start of the thread, there is some rust in the kick panel area so I'll already be doing some metal/body/paint work inside the cab. I also want to add sound deadener under the floor of the cab, so I'll be sandblasting already as well. I'm gunna have a hard time replicating the texture of the dash board, which kinds makes me want to leave it alone. The fawn paint is badly stained though from the original owner smoking in it for so many years. The original seat is in great shape, but isn't quite nice enough to fit in with new paint. It's at the point where it isn't quite as nice as the outside if the truck, so I'm leaning more towards completely redoing everything inside. I really really love the way the interior in the blue '65 I restored turned out- it's probably my favorite part of the whole truck, and it would be awesome to have Goldilocks lookin that good inside. What are you guys thinking? Should I leave it original and just super clean/detail what's there, or go full tilt resto on it?

that's a tough call...but if the outside is staying original, i think i'd try hard to keep the inside original...maybe you can fauxtina any areas that are showing after fixing rusty areas...i really like a clean interior, and i've seen a couple nice examples of redone interior with original outside...but at the same time, i think it takes away a little bit of the truck's character

[cable666guy]

Just found this thread, nice work!!

[pdxhall]

After following both of your threads for some time now, I don't think you'll ever be satisfied with the interior anything but fully restored and I say go for it. Make it right. Besides, then I get to watch as you work your magic that much more.

[duallyjams]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

After following both of your threads for some time now, I don't think you'll ever be satisfied with the interior anything but fully restored and I say go for it. Make it right. Besides, then I get to watch as you work your magic that much more.

Hate to say but I agree.

[darkhorse970]

After looking back at the entire build thred, I would leave the original interior paint and just fix the spots that have rusted through. Its only original once.

[chad64chevy]

i agree too, with the work with the steering wheel, the floor patch and the gauge cluster, might as well paint it!

[MalibuKasey]

resto it. Dunn... now get to work... :-)

[CRGRS 66]

I am aboard

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

that's a tough call...but if the outside is staying original, i think i'd try hard to keep the inside original...maybe you can fauxtina any areas that are showing after fixing rusty areas...i really like a clean interior, and i've seen a couple nice examples of redone interior with original outside...but at the same time, i think it takes away a little bit of the truck's character

Well, that's the thing; the outside has been repainted in the past (late 70's/early 80's?) so it's not really original, just old enough to become worn and patina'd again.

Originally Posted by cable666guy

Just found this thread, nice work!!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by pdxhall

After following both of your threads for some time now, I don't think you'll ever be satisfied with the interior anything but fully restored and I say go for it. Make it right. Besides, then I get to watch as you work your magic that much more.

I think you're right, I probably wouldn't be happy with it later on, and I'd always kick myself for not doing it while it was apart and easy to do. But, parts of it (like the seat) make me want to keep it original.

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

After looking back at the entire build thred, I would leave the original interior paint and just fix the spots that have rusted through. Its only original once.

It is original inside, but the paint is pretty badly stained and I don't know how it will clean up yet. I'll try to clean it up and see what it looks like before I make a final decision, but I'm leaning towards redoing it.

Originally Posted by duallyjams

Hate to say but I agree.

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

i agree too, with the work with the steering wheel, the floor patch and the gauge cluster, might as well paint it!

Those parts would kinda look out of place against the old paint.

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

resto it. Dunn... now get to work... :-)

Gotta finish the frame first... just thinking out loud and getting yall's opinions right now. Although you're welcome to come down and get a head start on it anytime you want!

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

I am aboard

Awesome!!

[padresag]

do what your heart tells you to do. it is your truck and your the one that is going to drive it. your the only one that really matters in this case. you cam always change it, unless you are an old fart and your days are numbered, then you have to do what you have to do to fulfill your dream . no matter how fast you go there will always be someone quicker tomorrow. it is the challenge. a lot of people do not get the challenge, do not understand it; just put in the newest and the bestest and join the club.
try your interior the way it is( clean it up); you may be happy with it. then again it will not be a major obstacle later to update it if you want to. life only comes around once.
“Ignorance is a powerful tool if applied at the right time, even usually surpassing knowledge.”
e.j.potter
ron

[theastronaut]

Thanks guys, I've decided that I'm gunno go with the LS engine. The 250 would be extremely cool, but after getting more feedback from the inliner guys, it just doesn't seem feasible as a street engine. I'm looking for a L33 5.3 since they had aluminum blocks and cylinder head castings that are nearly identical to LS6 heads. I'll probably run it stock for awhile then build it later on. I want to get this thing running!

The LS will eventually be detailed like an original 283 or 327 would have been with painted block/heads/intake, stamped steel accessory brackets, hidden coils, I'll fab some "Chevrolet" script valve covers, cast iron headers, and the carbs will be gold phosphate plated with fake oil bath air filters.

I found another cheap T56 on craigslist that's from a LS1 Camaro for $700 bucks since the one I've got is from a LT1 car and wont work. MalibuKasey wants the LT1 T56 for his truck, so that worked out well for both of us. I've bought two T56's for about what one is going for on Ebay! The factory tach also won't work with the LS motor's higher redline, so I'll check into getting it silkscreened and the internals reworked to go to 10k rpm. I want it to read "0 2 4 6 8 10" instead of "0 1 2 3 4 5" with the original font style, colors, and layout.

[doublebeetx]

Unless you are dead set on carbeurating(sp) the 5.3, Mast Motorsports make an awesome intake with throttle body and fuel rails. The first time I saw the set up, with hidden coils, I would have sworn it was a SBC. It had a very lumpy cam with an old school cam sound, yet it retained the great mileage and made incredible HP.
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[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by doublebeetx

Unless you are dead set on carbeurating(sp) the 5.3, Mast Motorsports make an awesome intake with throttle body and fuel rails. The first time I saw the set up, with hidden coils, I would have sworn it was a SBC. It had a very lumpy cam with an old school cam sound, yet it retained the great mileage and made incredible HP.
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My whole idea of going with four webers was to get away from the rough idle/lope normally associated with big cams and plenum manifolds, and because I have zero experience with efi. The individual runners in the manifold keeps the intake charge from being influenced by reversion from other cylinders, which keeps the idle smooth and boosts driveability. That means I can run more duration to increase top end power while retaining low end torque and smoothness. There are individual throttle body efi intakes available, but they cost atleast $3500 and I wouldn't be able to tune it. I can tune webers with a $200 buck wideband air/fuel gauge/datalogger myself- that's less than a tune on a dyno cost and I can tune it for any kind of driving conditions, not just dyno pulls. MSD makes a simple LS ignition controller that is programmed with a laptop, and also has a MAP sensor for added advance at cruise for better mileage and throttle response.
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[slammed427]

Just caught up on the progress. I'm lovin the build. Its kinda sad that the six isn't gonna work out, I love the look of those engines. Keep up the stellar work sir!
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[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by slammed427

Just caught up on the progress. I'm lovin the build. Its kinda sad that the six isn't gonna work out, I love the look of those engines. Keep up the stellar work sir!
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Thanks! I'm still not 100% thrilled about the LSx build, just because the six woulda been so much more unique than the typical V8 build. The LS will be disguised to look old though.



Well, it's bad when you have to dig to find your own build thread! I haven't got any "real" progress done due to the change of plans with the engine situation, and getting the details of that sorted out. I've been posting on LS1tech to get an idea of what I'll need for the engine build, and it looks like it'll be limited to around 7500 rpm unless I almost double the engine budget. I've settled in on using an L33 5.3, destroked with a 4.8 crank, and opened up to LS1 size 3.90" bore. The short stroke will slow the piston speed down so stock rods with ARP bolts will be adequate, and the LS1 bore will open up more piston options while unshrouding the valves. That ends up at 312 CI, so mildly ported stock 799 head castings will flow plenty to make good power on the top end.

Other than planning the engine build, I've also decided to sell the gauge cluster (minus the air gauge). I've found a guy that can build a stock looking 10k rpm tach that'll work with an LS engine, and also print a 140 mph speedo overlay for the gauge lens. I'll wetsand and buff off the stock 100 mph printing and use his reverse printed 140 mph decal on the inside of the lens. I should be able to sell the gauge cluster to cover the cost of the tach and speedo graphics. I've already got a gauge cluster I can restore and add the tach and air gauge to.

I've got about 3-4k worth of parts that I need to sell so I should soon have alot more cash free to dump on the truck and get the progress rolling along better. I've got my eye on a No Limit rack and pinion kit, and it'll need to go in before the engine so that will probably be one of the next big purchases.
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[Dino Driver]

I was looking at the No Limit R&P kit but I gave up on that idea. The No Limit kit requires you to drill a 7/8" hole in the frame for the steering shaft and 2 smaller holes for a centering bracket, so that requires you to get really creative with driver side motor mounts for LS motors. I found that Unisteer makes one that may work better but it's more expensive. I'll be very curious to see how you deal with this.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Dino Driver

I was looking at the No Limit R&P kit but I gave up on that idea. The No Limit kit requires you to drill a 7/8" hole in the frame for the steering shaft and 2 smaller holes for a centering bracket, so that requires you to get really creative with driver side motor mounts for LS motors. I found that Unisteer makes one that may work better but it's more expensive. I'll be very curious to see how you deal with this.

The mounts don't bother me that much since I'll be making my own to set the engine as far back and down as possible. Have you seen Shrunken66stroker's build thread? He's in the middle of a No Limit r&p install with an LS motor. I'm watching to see what he comes up with for steering joints.
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[MalibuKasey]

Well.... you have a game plan and thats what counts. I have the "5 year plan" on mine with various stages along the way.
and
Post some pics of that restored gauge cluster!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

Well.... you have a game plan and thats what counts. I have the "5 year plan" on mine with various stages along the way.
and
Post some pics of that restored gauge cluster!

I thought I had a plan together when I first bought the truck...



Here's the gauge cluster. It's for sale in the for sale section with a full description of what I've done to it. $550 shipped.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=527764

[theastronaut]

Here's what the tach will look like. Subtle, eh?

[dean jendro]

Sweet!!

[El Campo]

Interesting concept you have on the engine. I like different views and you definitely have one My only question (and I am in no way insinuating that you are doing the wrong thing so forgive me if it seems that way) is how does destroking an engine improve everyday driveability? Seems to me that more torque further down in the RPMs would make it more driver friendly as this is more often usable. Or am I missing the boat entirely? I know that when I ride my 88 CI Harley which makes a bunch of top end HP versus my friends 96 CI his is much more fun to just cruise on because it makes tons of low end power and the seat of your pants definitely feels it. Now I have big cams and in an all out drag race I rev higher and am ultimately faster but just is not as much fun to ride. Or are you just planning on having enogh power that that it makes plenty down low too (a fantastic idea). Love this truck btw and I am anxious to see more work on it!

[theastronaut]

El Campo, you're thinking straight on the crank. Destroking it would typically kill bottom end torque, but I'm thinking that the intake with 8 separate runners will keep reversion from influencing/diluting the intake charge like it does with a plenum manifold, so that will definitly help with low speed engine smoothness and torque production. I'll bump the compression up too to help with low end torque. The LSx guys are running around 30 degrees more duration when they swap to an IR intake with no loss of bottem end driveability and way better throttle response. The other reason for the 4.8 crank is that it's stronger and slows the piston speed down so the rods and pistons aren't as stressed at high rpms. That along with porting the heads will move the powerband up a good bit- I hate it when an engine won't pull hard on the top end. It'll also be geared short (4.56) to take advantage of the higher powerband.

The current engine in my '64 VW is a torque monster (peak tq at around 2400 rpm) but it gives up around 5200 rpm, and that's no fun with 4.37 gears. So I'd be fine with giving up a little torque to have it pull harder up top. If I need more torque I can always downshift. My dad likes to get his truck in 5th/overdrive asap and thinks he's killing an engine if it gets above 3000 rpm; I'm just the opposite. If it doesn't work as planned I can fairly easily pull it and swap the 5.3 crank/rods back in.

[El Campo]

That makes sense. Sounds well thought out. And I can appreciate that! Very curious to get it running and see how it works, so go work on it!! :-D You probably have it figured out right, I have the exact opposite problem. I have a torque monster also (535 BB) which makes 666lb/ft at only 3000 RPM but power stops falling off around 5100. But I have a 3.08 gear so it works decent. Thats the thing that has been keeping me from going to a different gear. I probably have it all wrong though!!!! I have nothing but the upmost respect for your work so keep on rocking!