S10 Swap how to

[Garyhenrich]

Sky, have you had any compatibility issues with using the S10 brakes booster, master and porportioning valve when adding the 4x4 rear end with disks? My S10 is an 84, I think the rear end is from a 96 blazer. I have a very firm pedal and a lot of pressure is needed to stop the truck, pedal stays high and firm. Nothing like a low and soft peddle from air in the lines. . I switched the booster for another out of a K5, no change.
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[Strodder]

I've been following this thread, and not sure if someone addressed the issue of mounting the front bumper. Here's what I did. I made a bracket from 1X2 tubing and slipped it into the frame and clamped it. I forgot to take a picture of what it looked like. Sorry. Then welded a nut in the inside part of the bumper brackets so a bolt can be bolted through the bracket and frame. Then I had to modify the bumper brackets so the bumper would be centered. After I had everything centered I did the final welding and boxed in the front frame around the brackets I made that lets the bumper brackets slide in. I can undo 4 bolts and the whole bumper and brackets come right out. Here's the pictures I took. Hope you like the idea.

[Cautrell05]

[quote=Strodder;7148463]I've been following this thread, and not sure if someone addressed the issue of mounting the front bumper. Here's what I did. I made a bracket from 1X2 tubing and slipped it into the frame and clamped it. I forgot to take a picture of what it looked like. Sorry. Then welded a nut in the inside part of the bumper brackets so a bolt can be bolted through the bracket and frame. Then I had to modify the bumper brackets so the bumper would be centered. After I had everything centered I did the final welding and boxed in the front frame around the brackets I made that lets the bumper brackets slide in. I can undo 4 bolts and the whole bumper and brackets come right out. Here's the pictures I took. Hope you like the idea.





Nice clean mount for the bumper.

Not sure if you figured it out yet but your center link is on backwards. took me a bit to figure out why the inner tie rods looked off.

Nick

[Strodder]

I installed it the other way by mistake and it didn't fit. It doesn't hit anything and I set the toe also, turns lock to lock too. What else would you want? I'll give it another look. Thanks

[Strodder]

I see what you mean. The tie rod nuts should be facing front. Thanks again.

[Cautrell05]

By moving the inner tierod forward several inches it seriously changes the steering geometry and not for the better. As an alignment tech at the Local GM I see one come in every couple months. The 99-07 half ton pickups can be installed backwards also. They are easy to spot because they turn like are stuck in 4wd when they aren't.

[skymangs]

Gary; it sure sounds like a vaccum issue to me. Make sure your booster vaccum hose is attached to "non-ported" vaccum source (below the throttle plate) then check for vaccum leaks. You should have around 15hg at idle. I've used disk setups on the stock booster/master many times.

[skymangs]

Strodder; love the idea. On my swaps, the bumper brackets always ride just below the frame. You must mount the cab a little over to the frame than I do.

[skymangs]

On an un-related note, here's a few pics of the G body front section I just completed. The fit is really amazing. Perfect wheel track, no spacers needed!

[steve aleve]

Here is a question regarding the radiator and core support height. To achieve the ride height I am after, I have mounted my cab approximately a half inch off of the frame. I want to mention that I am running a 5.3 LS engine. I will have a large trans tunnel and I'm totally ok with that. So I have seen the 19 x 22 double pass radiators used and it seems like in most applications having the radiator sit ABOVE the steering box is ok there is still room in the core support to house the radiator. My question is, what are my options on a radiator when the body sits this low? Do I have to accept that the radiator will sit high? Can I tilt the radiator to miss the steering box and fit down in the core support? Different radiator dimensions? Thanks in advance

[T-P Auto]

Steve;

Look At my post;
( The Frankenstine build )
You will need to have your front fenders mounted to the cab to center your front wheels.
You will need to do this to find how thw hood fit to the fenders.
I had my body 2" off the frame, had to raise the front of cab up 1.25 " higher then the rear.
With the cab n fenders mounted you will get an ideal of where the radiator will set.

Just some information I had to work out on my build.

T-P Auto
Tim

[steve aleve]

Thanks Tim,

I have been following your build for a while now. Great job!! This definitely helps. Can I ask, what are the dimensions of the radiator you used? is it the 19x22 that I have seen most people using?

[skymangs]

With your cab that close to the frame you may need to get a little creative. I dont care for tilting the rad. My son's truck is like that and the temp creeps when its 100 deg. And idling in a cruise. I'm convinced that the tilt has everything to do with it. You are adding turbulence add reducing air flow through the core if you. Ant get the clearance for a cross flow, you could always go with RIck and pinion..

[T-P Auto]

Steve;
The radiator is 19 x 22 from Speedway.
If I had though it thur more.
I would have set my cab closer to the engine n the dist.
If you look you can see that I have about 4.5 " from dist to cab.
Had I moved the body forward that much.
I would have had enough room to use the full front radiator support .
Just really look it over n move it around some before you fab the mounts.
Read the full post by skymangs all so.
There is a lot of good info in his post n builds.

T-P Auto
Tim

P/S keep note of what you use.

[skymangs]

Thanks T-P. Steve, if you want to talk about options on your build, feel free to call any time. 7602670624
~Sarge

[SkeeterBilt]

awesome thread. youve helped me so much and im just beganing.

question tho. im using an s10 frame with a 4x4 rear, using 2 inch spacers up front what offset should i run for the fronts and backs? stock up front? id like to have a little bit wider in the rear.
thanks

[skymangs]

Front can be a zero offset, 7 or 8 " wheel. If you runs wide tires in the rear, you will likely still need spacers. I run 1.25" spacers with a 17x8 wheel on a 4x4 diff. on my kids truck. The other option is a G body rear end. They fit really nicely.

[SkeeterBilt]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Front can be a zero offset, 7 or 8 " wheel. If you runs wide tires in the rear, you will likely still need spacers. I run 1.25" spacers with a 17x8 wheel on a 4x4 diff. on my kids truck. The other option is a G body rear end. They fit really nicely.

thanks sarge!!!
so a stock off-set up front with a 2inch spacer and in the a rear a stock off-set for the blazer rear with 1.25 spacer?

[skymangs]

Yes. That works out very nicely.

[SkeeterBilt]

thanks. i think im gonna order the crager series 69 wheels. then put some small white walls on it.

[skymangs]

Cool. That will look cool!

[steve aleve]

Ok so hopefully someone here has done what I am hoping to do. I have my cab on my s10 frame with my 5.3 Vortec set. My cab sits about .5 inches above the frame (pretty low) and I have a hydroboost out of an Astro that I am hoping to use... however, I want to do a frame mount to keep the firewall smooth and clean (like skymangs!!!! nice work on the 49 by the way!!! wow!) I got the cab back in place last night after working the firewall and tunnel for a bit and it seems like the frame is going to get in the way of the booster being down there... anyone dealt with this? Do I have to locate it on the firewall? I have seen this done on many trucks... just not an AD with an S10 frame.

[skymangs]

That hydro-boost is pretty slim, but you will likely need to move the master/booster away from the frame 2-3". Then mod your pedal pivot to match.

[steve aleve]

That's what I was thinking and after setting the cab on the frame last night, and because of the frame width, it looks like that will put the brake pedal pretty far right (towards the passenger side). Almost to the point of hitting my trans tunnel. No room for a gas pedal. Hmm. And there is no way to successfully mount the booster off axis of the pedal right?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by steve aleve

That's what I was thinking and after setting the cab on the frame last night, and because of the frame width, it looks like that will put the brake pedal pretty far right (towards the passenger side). Almost to the point of hitting my trans tunnel. No room for a gas pedal. Hmm. And there is no way to successfully mount the booster off axis of the pedal right?

If you really want a hidden booster, build a "under dash" setup. Or Speedway sells universal ones. I wasn't thinking during my earlier post... S10 chassis is going to be a darned tight fit. i was thinking stock chassis for some reason.