1972 Chevy p/u NewType Build

[NewType72]

Going to be checking out that ford 9" rear end saturday sometime kinda scared it'll change my mind luckily i have no money to really do anything yet

[NewType72]

new idea save a big chunk of money and not go posi just do the rebuild on the 12 bolt and swap for some disc rear brakes just GM ones nothin fancy. This way I'll be closer to the tranny getting done as well

[NewType72]

Well I wasn't able to check out the Ford 9" rear end Saturday but I did get some great news from my audio sponsor in that I will be attending this coming February's Sacramento Ca, Autorama http://www.rodshows.com/sa/index.html

I will be displaying the truck to the best of my abilities to make my spot worth being chosen by them so a big thank you to Big D and family for the invite swing by the coolest site around to check into some great audio equipment I love buying and dealing through them because of their hospitality and great overall nature in the business world
http://www.arcaudio.com/index2.asp

So with that announced I will now be going into double overtime to get this truck ready for the event plans include major and small tasks to make it that much nicer and maybe even a possible contender in my class so here goes

Exterior:
..Finish body work on tailgate and paint white and red to match the truck
..Install trim moldings around tail lights and upper body line of tail gate
..Possibly install the Chevrolet trim band along the bottom
..If not go with White Chevrolet embossed letters
..Pull out original wood re sand down to bare and re-tone and clear or stain for a better longer lasting look (is chipping)
..Pull off inner/outer Grill and have the outer polished and coated correctly and re spray the inner the OEM silver (possibly metallic like bed strips)to enhance the look (little dull)
..Possibly swap to my old (non warped hood) and sand blast that then spray it with the sealer White to replace warped one
..CLEAR ENTIRE TRUCK to have that show stopping sheen

Interior:
..Possibly repair an OEM steering wheel from my spare cab and install that (Black)
..Get all courtesy and dome/cargo turn signal lights working
..Paint steering column black to freshen the look
..Recover Bench seat with cloth black and vinyl like OEM OR go with Truckseats and do a /black white Houndstooth seat cover for that Cheyenne flavor (FAN VOTE)
..Build custom wood and carpeted kick panels that will allow my air vents to function still
..Install my already paid for 2 6" speakers/tweeters as well as new 5-channel amp I have
..Possibly do a custom built Center "two piece" console

Motor compartment:
..Dress up any showing wires
..FIX ALL LEAKS
..Nick nack stuff

Oh one more thing do some custom 18-20" one off wheels from my work how could I forget

[NewType72]

Got a few pictures in including a whole new aluminum surface plate for my CNC machine, some awesome beading from the wax job on the truck, the gunk leaking from my valve covers on both sides (black showing the really bad areas mostly in the back so I siliconed that and let it set for today hopefully I'll leak alot less than before tmrw shall tell me the improvement.) and finally a little fun with a velocity stack I had laying around (no it doesn't fit and no I'm not keeping it ) ALSO who knows of the company that provides a product to coat my master cylinder so it stops rusting looking for a silver/gray instead of black just to match the Alternator thanks

[Mike Bradbury]

Eastwood has a cool product that is made for coating cast iron headers that really works well for any cast product. It uses the heat from the exhaust to cure it but I had it on my headers for months before I was able to fire up my engine and it dried fine. I would get a little gray on my hands when handling them but it was not too bad. The instructions say to apply with a rag but a real time saver is an old tooth brush. There is enough in the little container to do my ram horn headers multiple times. It has been on for about 6 months and about 2000 miles and still looks like the day I fired it up.
These are the original 1969 headers that came on the truck they were pretty rusty and old looking but they look almost new now.

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

Eastwood has a cool product that is made for coating cast iron headers that really works well for any cast product. It uses the heat from the exhaust to cure it but I had it on my headers for months before I was able to fire up my engine and it dried fine. I would get a little gray on my hands when handling them but it was not too bad. The instructions say to apply with a rag but a real time saver is an old tooth brush. There is enough in the little container to do my ram horn headers multiple times. It has been on for about 6 months and about 2000 miles and still looks like the day I fired it up.
These are the original 1969 headers that came on the truck they were pretty rusty and old looking but they look almost new now.

Perfect I knew it was a company something like Eastwood so I'll have to round some up I'll be doing my mast. Cylinder ad maybe even the alternator as well to
Give them the same look. Thanks Mike
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[NewType72]

Looking good in the oil leak department so far just a tiny drip on the driver side rear buuuut that's most likely from any old oil still clinging to the motor but I'm looking pretty darn clean as for tonight

for an update on gathering parts I will be seriously considering going through Truckseats to order some black and white houndstooth to freshen up my ripped all black seat here's a better reference for my idea.. was wondering if anyone knew about the best place to get cushion/foam from to replace the used current one and if there were any sweet "bucket" influenced bench seats to help keep me in the seat a little better any ideas to that?

[longbed67]

very classy! I would be afraid to get the white in the plaid dirty.

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by longbed67

very classy! I would be afraid to get the white in the plaid dirty.

And that's exactly what's holding me back from buying it at this point since I still get really dirty at work even with being a machinist oh well maybe in a couple months I'll justify it and buy a nice cover towel to sit on when not at shows
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[NewType72]

Alright everybody this issue has been kinda nagging me for a bit but I'd like to know from everybody's experience with these trucks have any of you had a collapsed rear spring?? This is my only conclusion to a possible answer on why my pass. side is 1" 1/4 higher than my driver side as seen in the photo. Anyone know what it could be and why?

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Great build Man ! Truck is looking Good ! I'm no expert, but the rear of the truck down on one side like that, seems like it could only be a spring, shock, or mounting point.

[NewType72]

Thank you, I was thinking most of that too so we swapped for brand new gas shocks and it didn't fix it but the rear springs are a lowered set from early classics and seem fairly new they can't twist and get out of alignment like the front getting of of the pocket can they?
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Not sure on the spring. I think the end of the coil fits in a notch on the keeper. could it be the bed itself? I see in the pic the tailgate looks a little tweaked.

[NewType72]

We wondered that as well but ever since we took the bed off and wood out to repaint we've noticed it was way off but it could have been like that before too and other than the shocks I've never taken the rear end apart guess my next step it to drop the rear down a bit and pull the springs to see if they're the same or not I hope its just that and not a frame issue
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[NewType72]

Alright so I just went out and measured the back of the frame and to the tip of the tailgate on each side is at least 1" off driver being lower and passenger being higher.

So then I went to my springs and measured just their distance and the driver was at 7 1/4-1/2 tall and the passenger was a solid 8" tall.

One other curious idea was that my springs have a small to tall opening between the coils every time it wraps around if you can follow my ill knowledge on wording this sort of thing and it appears either my driver or passenger side has been flipped from top to bottom one having a short distance for the base the other having a long distance for the base could this be an issue in the p.o. Just putting them in upside down??
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[NewType72]

Double post whoops
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[knomadd]

I believe (not really certain) that the closer spaces on your coils are for a higher spring rate, or at least that's my theory. The wider spaces are likely to have a softer ride when unloaded and tighter space is to help keep the load off the bump stops. If one is oposite of the other, flip one and see if it corrects it. I'm really only guessing at this point though. I was looking at coilovers yesterday out of curiosity and noticed that some of their springs are tighter spaced at the bottom of the shock then at the top, so that was my theory. Never really looked into it far enough to be sure.

Hopefully someone else can give you more insight.

[NewType72]

Hey anything is helpful at this point and mine seem to have that gradual opening up of the spring as it goes from on end to another ill post some pictures tonight to show better than
I can explain. It would be really nice to just have to flip one over if so
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Just an idea, but have you measured from the ground to the bottom of rear frame on both sides (on level ground). I dont think suspension problem would cause the bed to twist out of place (because tailgate is off a bit). I would get those measurements and check the bed mount contacts on the frame. also the springs should be the same on both sides, but I'm not sure which end goes up. I'll have to look at mine and see if their the same as yours.

[NewType72]

I'll roll the truck into the shop after I'm off work to check, but it was an inch off in our parking lot from ground to rear of frame rails tailgate is most likely visually off because of the fact that te p.o. Put seat belt clips as the lock for the gate. No runner bed mounts bed rails are solid to frame. I'll be taking the rear end apart in two weeks or so. So I'll be sure to take springs out an check their height and be sure to mount them in the same way.
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[shawno72]

Looks good.

[FrankieD]

[QUOTE=NewType72;5668284]Alright everybody this issue has been kinda nagging me for a bit but I'd like to know from everybody's experience with these trucks have any of you had a collapsed rear spring?? This is my only conclusion to a possible answer on why my pass. side is 1" 1/4 higher than my driver side as seen in the photo. Anyone know what it could be and why?

I had the same problem on my 70 just never noticed it till this summer the left side was 1.5" lower I bought a set of 4" drop springs all is good now. I measured the wheel well higth then verifyed by measuring the springs frame to axle. You can see a slight diffrence in the picture.

[NewType72]

Right it's just enough to throw the whole bed off and it's so irritating to me when I look at the truck up close or from afar I think some simple bags are in my future real soon

And Shawn how is it looking good? My truck has a limp lol
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[shawno72]

Originally Posted by NewType72

And Shawn how is it looking good? My truck has a limp lol
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A limp?? That's the infamous Chevy lean..... I actually posted a question about that and found that this is super common, I called a local frame shop and they said they used to do these trucks all the time, something about over the years the frame gets a little twist from one sided driver and engine torque. He also said for about $150-200 he could make it level again.


By the way I was saying the engine looks good

[shawno72]

Here is some info
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=512567