Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[dug224]

Got the transmission lines plumbed. Used two 60" hard lines that were "pre-flared" and had fittings at both ends. Removed the quick disconnect fittings at the radiator and used normal fittings. The lines are about $8 each. Decided to cut them and add a flex section down near the transmission. Had to get creative at the transmission with the upper line attachments. Used a couple of elbows to get out from under my fancy transmission tunnel. Would have been a bit easier had I given myself another 1.5" of room. Decided to move the battery to the back of the truck in light of all the refrigerant and hot water lines that have to go through the firewall. Thanks to my buddy Jim for the adult supervision on the AT Trans line bends. dug

[Kim57]

Trans lines came out real nice.
Kim

[dug224]

Got the shifter and cable in place. Used metal screws to hold it down so not a permanent installation. May need to raise it once the center console is designed. Decided to route the long shift cable under the truck rather than in the cab. Feels better to me. The loop heads towards the engine from the shifter through the trans tunnel then over the transmission to the left where it sits on top of the driver side frame and continues over the trans cross member to the back side of the shift bracket.

In preparation for the drive, I installed the front clip loosely. I will adjust and tighten once I get all the components in place. Had to install the grill since it had been hanging on the wall way too long.

Sent PCM off for re-flashing. Should have it back next week.

Included one FYI photo to show how much of the intake sticks above the fenders.

Ricky: I studied the 3/4" tire move after I got the fenders on. It does not bother me moving the wheel back 3/4". You do have a different size tire so this may influence the look over and above what I can see with my tire size. Looking at the driver side wheel, there is a substantial gap at about 2:00 which moving the tire back would fill. See photo. I just didn't want a large gap in front of the tire that made the truck look front heavy. Also, snagged a bracket to hold my PCM from a 2005 Tahoe. Same PCM. The S-10 was a good bit larger. Thanks for the advice.......dug

[ricott]

You are getting close - the truck is really looking good. Thanks for the picture of the front wheel well, I really like how your truck looks. I think I'm going to mount the cab and front cap and then adjust forward/back, but not up/down. Since the rear mounts will need to be placed and welded, it wouldn't be that much more to move the front mounts if that is needed to get the best spacing in the wheel well.

I have another request, if you don't mind. I need to know about how much your front springs are compressed. At some point during the next few days, could you pull a measurement from the center of the upper A-Frame to shock tower bolt down to the center of the bolt that bolts the shock/strut to bottom A-Frame? I will use that number to approximate how much lower my truck will sit (right now the spring is fully extended). My engine is an Iron block 6.0, so it will weigh about 70/80 pounds more than the engine you have, but your number should get me in the ball park for front ride height. I plan to build a "Treaded Rod" replacement for both front spring assemblies this weekend. Once I have your measurements, I will set the front ride height at that number for "mock up " purposes. I appreciate your help.

Ricky

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

You are getting close - the truck is really looking good. Thanks for the picture of the front wheel well, I really like how your truck looks. I think I'm going to mount the cab and front cap and then adjust forward/back, but not up/down. Since the rear mounts will need to be placed and welded, it wouldn't be that much more to move the front mounts if that is needed to get the best spacing in the wheel well.

I have another request, if you don't mind. I need to know about how much your front springs are compressed. At some point during the next few days, could you pull a measurement from the center of the upper A-Frame to shock tower bolt down to the center of the bolt that bolts the shock/strut to bottom A-Frame? I will use that number to approximate how much lower my truck will sit (right now the spring is fully extended). My engine is an Iron block 6.0, so it will weigh about 70/80 pounds more than the engine you have, but your number should get me in the ball park for front ride height. I plan to build a "Treaded Rod" replacement for both front spring assemblies this weekend. Once I have your measurements, I will set the front ride height at that number for "mock up " purposes. I appreciate your help.

Ricky

Ricky: Was headed to the garage when I got your request. I believe I understood your request. Included a photo to be sure. Laying on the ground behind the front left wheel looking up. I get 14-3/8" from bottom strut bolt to center-line of upper "A" arm big bolt. My hood is not on and I am lacking other contributing factors like glass, bumper, brackets, etc. Not sure how much it really matters. When I was piling on the 60 lb sand bags trying to simulate the weight back in the day, I was hardly making anything move. Not sure how much this body weighs relative to the T.B. but, it seems to me, it would be a good bit lighter. When we gravity drove it, it handled more like a sports car than a truck. Dug

[ricott]

That is exactly the measurement I wanted - great job of decipering my unclear request. Thanks again.

[Kim57]

It's looking real good.
Kim

[dug224]

Jim came over and we recycled the old I-6 fuel lines into my temporary fuel line setup. They are about 22" too long and had many bends in them that were not useful to me. As a result, we sent them through an old woodworking vice with extra smooth and wide jaws. Taped some soft rags on the jaws to lessen the blow. Got them straight-ish (see photo at firewall) and then re-bent them with a substantial loop in them to absorb the extra length. With a pair of pliers, rotated the braided crimped on sections to align the quick disconnect fittings at the engine. Did not expect this to work but seemed to rotate fairly easy. Normally, the fuel lines come straight up in the back center of the engine so they would be a good deal shorter. We brought them from over the top of the Brake Booster to use up length. Missing in the photo is the EVAP line that will be bent up today and installed. Will add the factory plastic fuel line separators and devise a way to clip them for a more finished look. Braided lines with AN fittings will probably be the final choice for fuel lines. Factory filler neck to gas tank is now in place ready to take on fuel..... dug.

[ricott]

Looks like you have the gas lines ready to go (for now). What is the ETA on the computer reflash? On a different note, I used your strut measurements last weekend to check mine - Houston we may have a problem. It appears that your springs in front have only compressed approximately 1/2 inch. I would have expected it to have settled more than that. Looking at the charts, the trailblazer had a 53/47 weight distribution, and approximately 2446 pounds on the front end. This would explain the stiff ride when you were coasting. If I can get the Wifey to park her Envoy long enough for me to measure see how much her springs are compressed.

[ricott]

Sorry the follow up, but I failed to completely state the possible issue. Looking at the charts, the trailblazer had a 53/47 weight distribution, and approximately 2446 pounds on the front end. I looked up the curb weight for a 1958 chevy pickup and it listed 1650 pounds on the front - approximately 800 pounds less. This would explain the stiff ride when you were coasting. Can't wait for a video of your truck running.

Ricky

[dug224]

Like I said, I kept piling on the sand bags with very little spring deflection.

Computer re-flash sometime late this week or early next week. In the morning, I will begin putting the wire loom back on my harness and segregating what needs 12V. Also need to re-install the starter and wire up that circuit. By the end of the week I should have the wiring wrapped up which, optimistically, lines me up for a start-up as soon as this weekend. I have one pesky wire (orange w/black) that is associated with the fuel tank I have not tied down.

Ordered a single 16" 2,500 CFM electric radiator fan today along with a new fuel filter. Fan is about 1/8" thinner than the room I have available. Hopefully, they measured to the small raised circle on the end of the motor. If this is the case, it will miss the threaded engine pulley since the center of the engine is not in line with the center of the radiator. I guess I could also slip the fan to one side of the radiator if clearance is a problem. Dug

[Kim57]

Looks good.
You're making good progress.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Wow that's a lot of wire! Good luck, but I'm sure you'll pull it off!

[Kim57]

Real nice job on the battery tray.
Kim

[dug224]

Had some help from Grandson Noah so we made measurable progress. Maybe not measureable but it was fun having him help out..... End of June deadline approaching fast!
- Engine wire loom is 100% and all connectors are plugged in including the Green and Blue plugs into the PCM. PCM location I chose looks pretty factory. The PCM wires clear the upper suspension bolt nicely.
- I am a bit puzzled that my Bank 1 and Bank 2 O2 connector wires appear to be a bit short. They reach just past the exhaust manifold flange but don't appear to be long enough to make it to any kind of 02 fitting. I may need to lengthen them when I have the cross over pipe with O2 plugs fabricated.
- Debated putting the fuse panel back under the dash at the diver kick panel. The behind the driver seat location appears to be still winning at this point.
Next few steps:
- Wire loom and route the fuel tank wires from the three plugs in the tank to the PCM and fuse panels.
- Consolidate the engine/PCM pink 12V switched wires, orange continuous 12V wires and grounds.
- Route the consolidated wires to their respective fuse panels.
- Big wire to the starter.
- ....turn key...drive....
-

[Kim57]

Looks like he's having a great time.
Kim

[dug224]

Beat the end of June deadline and got it running. Jim and Jerry came over after I finished getting it ready to help me through the initial checkout before we turned the key. With the exception of leaving a few wires hot and NOT taped and one key wire feeding one of my Fuse Panels disconnected, the initial check went off pretty effortlessly. Still not sure if the cooling fan is working. During checkout, we jumped the relay and made it run. After the PCM was connected to it, it did not appear to be working. Fan grounds through PCM so maybe we do not have it wired correctly. Not sure we even got the engine hot enough. Truck fired after it turned over a few times. Turned it off pretty quickly and checked all the fluids. Got them topped off and took it for a spin. Did a mini one tire burnout going up the hill. Had a transmission fluid leak which we fixed by replacing a hose clamp. As I was coming in to park it for the day, the rack started leaking badly. Hopefully it is leaking where I put the new hydraulic lines. Will tackle it later.

Pictures show the fuse panel which is located behind driver seat and the mostly finished cluster of wires under the hood near the PCM on the drivers side. The EZ fuse panel located at the bottom of the board will handle much of the normal stuff. Fuse Panel 1 (top) serves the "Pink" PCM wires and the fan and fuel pump control circuits and power. It is switched from the late model TB column thru the Yellow wire that is Ignition/Crank. Fuse Panel 3 is just above the EZ panel and is constant 12 V. It gets the "Orange" wires from the PCM among others. I jumped off the input lug for Fuse Panel 3 to power one portion of the EZ Fuse Panel which is the starter circuit. Fuse Panel 2 (second one down) will support all the fun stuff I am trying to do with the late model column. All the relays are mounted on the right side of the board. Note I also put the OBD connector between FP2 and FP3 for easy access.

Cross over pipe with O2 ports is next. As you can imagine, it is pretty loud without any mufflers on it. Subsequent trips around the neighborhood included hearing protection.

INITIAL START: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szzH...ature=youtu.be

MAIDEN VOYAGE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AVv...ature=youtu.be

...dug

[ricott]

Congratulations on the first powered drive! Your truck is looking great. Can't wait to see the bed on it.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Congratulations on the first powered drive! Your truck is looking great. Can't wait to see the bed on it.

Thanks. Once I clean up the garage and get the loose wires out from around the gas pedal, I plan on roughing in the bed location.

[Kim57]

Congrats on getting it started.
It's all down hill from there.
Kim

[dug224]

Loaded up and headed to the muffler shop in the morning. I will initially have the muffler guy simply create a cross over pipe and connect to the existing single pipe two muffler system sans catalytic converters. Don't intend to have it too loud but, if too quiet, may remove one of the two mufflers.

Sorted out my steering rack leak. I did not properly install the peculiar seals when I installed the new lines. In short, push the new seals into the body of the rack and then push the new lines into the seals. The 8mm bolt will pull the flange with both lines in tight against the rack. See photo. The two lines are to the left. You can see the flange flat against the rack body. If it is not seated properly you can see it in the fact that the flange is not flat against the rack. If you try to put them on the lines first then push the entire assembly into the rack, the high pressure seal won't seat properly and will leak like you have never seen before. My second set of new seals cost $15 each ($20 list) at the dealer. By the way, the master cylinder/brake booster were removed which made it much easier to see. You work on it from under the vehicle and access it pretty good.

Brake booster was bad and so was my backup booster. Bought a new one for $113 and had to paint it. I now have proper brakes.

[dug224]

...failed to include the photos.

Also, my $100 Chinese '06 Corvette radiator appears to have sprung a leak. Saw some steam "whisping" out from somewhere on the driver side. I got what I paid for.

[ricott]

Thanks for the "heads up" on the correct way to install the pressure side of the power steering. I would not have guessed it worked that way and at $15/$20 a crack (plus a drive to the stealership) I would be sad. Can't wait to see your truck with the bed on it. So, are you going to put a windshield in it and make it a "around the neighborhood driver" or do you plan to go straight to bodywork?

[dug224]

Ricky: At this moment, I intend to have it sandblasted, primed and painted with NO body work. Get it entirely put back together and drive it during the house build and put off the heavy body work and good paint until after the build. Still a ton of work left no matter what I do. May start the bed mockup in the morning since I am tired of electricity and the truck runs.

Got the cross over pipe built and installed and tied into the factory I-6 mufflers. Sounds quiet and great. Still a bit of a barely detectable lope or miss of some sort but at least we can now hear it. O2 sensors ordered and on the way. By the way, exhaust manifold flanges are NOT the same from driver to passenger side. The passenger side is run of the mill stuff. The driver side is apparently not. Fortunately, I hustled out to the salvage yard and found one in the Cat Converter recycle bin. Find one before you take yours to the muffler shop to save time.

My radiator leak was probably power steering fluid boiling off of the radiator. No signs of water leaking since I noticed it.

Jim brought the heat gun over and he measured the temp of the thermostat housing. Finally got the truck hot enough driving it around the neighborhood several times and the fan finally cycled at about 201 degrees F per LT1SWAP.com programming.

I watched the guy at the muffler shop closely today and learned how someone can MIG weld above their head with no gloves, no welding mask, mouth open and dressed in shorts and a short sleeve shirt. Asked him how he did it. Turns out his trick is to keep the arc behind the handle. Claims he doesn't even squint!!! Been doing the muffler thing for 40 years. I like my eyes, hands and tongue so I will have to stick with convention.

Finally, my buddy at the salvage yard bought a low mileage 2007 Trailblazer SS that I will market for him. Actual miles are yet to be determined. Plan on trying to sell the entire package including the 6.0 LS, Trans, MAF sensor, Throttle body, TAC with associated gas pedal and PCM. Will post the mileage and price once he decides what he wants for it.

[Kim57]

That kinda sucks on the wheel placement.
If it were me I would get the bed where it looks good in relation to the cab and probably just cut and lengthen the frame. Seems like the easiest fix.
Kim