Project: LS1ick68

[GAc10boy]

Wow! Just gorgeous. Both color schemes. Well done! On the all silver motor, is the breather on the passenger v/c an Earl's breather? Did you use the matching pcv valve as well?

[jessemthompson]

Just read your entire thread. Great build. Did you get your downshifting issues taken care of?

[68Stepbed]

Version 2.0 will be coming soon!! Here's a sneak peek of part of the new version.

[68Stepbed]

OK, the engine guy didn't want to push it past 6000 on the dyno, but she still made 521hp at 5900 rpm 472 tq at 5400 rpm!!

You Tube

[solidaxel]

What it wasn't fast enough !
How does all that torque hook up ?

[ajgriffin]

Did you dyno it before you added the heads? Any other changes while you were swapping out the heads (e.g. - rockers)? I'm curious to know how much power you added! I've always been a fan of AFR and 521hp/472 tq is awesome!

Standing by for the pics

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

What it wasn't fast enough !
How does all that torque hook up ?

Actually, it was for the stock suspension. However, since I've installed all new TCI suspension, the torque arm should supply more grip!!

Originally Posted by ajgriffin

Did you dyno it before you added the heads? Any other changes while you were swapping out the heads (e.g. - rockers)? I'm curious to know how much power you added! I've always been a fan of AFR and 521hp/472 tq is awesome!

Standing by for the pics

No before dyno, but it was estimated about 450ish with the stock 241 heads and same cam, since that's typical numbers for a cam only LS1. The only change in the valvetrain was the trunion upgrade in the rocker arms. The trunion upgrade really doesn't do anything for power, they just make the rockers more stable and less prone to high rpm failure.

Also keep in mind the hp/tq numbers are only what's recorded since we didn't take the engine to its 6500rpm potential. If you look at the chart with numbers, the power was still climbing rapidly. I would confidently say it would've hit 540hp, but since no numbers to prove it, I won't claim it.

[Steve Cole]

Awesome build! I read the whole thread, great job! One question, what instrument gauges did you use?

Thanks.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Awesome build! I read the whole thread, great job! One question, what instrument gauges did you use?

Thanks.

Thanks for the compliment. As for gauges, that's the one area that I've never been able to do right. It seems like every time I go to upgrade, something else gets the attention. As of now, I still have a factory cluster, with the fuel gauge being the only thing working in it. I was never able to get the speedo working with the correct fittings in the transmission, the tach died shortly after getting it installed, the oil pressure was always pegged, I never got the correct sending unit for the coolant temp, and the volt meter just doesn't work. For now, I'm using one of those inexpensive 3 gauge clusters mounted at the bottom of the dash.

Yes, for all the other stuff I've done, this seems strange to overlook something so simple. I've actually started to build a cluster out of an old glove box door, but it stalled out when the suspension upgrade began. Hopefully, once it's back up and running, I'll get back to it.

[68Stepbed]

2021 update!

I haven't been updating this thread like I had intended. The engine has been through a couple changes since my last update.

In June 2018, I ended up burning up the #2 piston because, like an idiot, I took internet advice and capped off my steam lines. That caused a hot steam pocket that burnt the edge of the stock cast piston. It went back to the machine shop.



Version 2.1 received +.010 forged pistons, and we opted for a custom ground cam. The cam from before ran great, but it revved very quick, too quick actually. Most of the time on an autocross course, the engine would run out of rpms and be bouncing the rev limiter. The machine shop picked a cam that would rev slower, but still maintain good torque throughout the rpm curve.

This combo was good for 530hp/475tq. Now, that's not a huge difference from the previous numbers, but....it certainly felt much different! The engine made over 400 lb/ft from 2800 to 6000 rpm. It's pretty much always in optimal torque range.

You Tube

Version 2.2 was the swap from carburetor to EFI. Since I'm still running the 700R4, I had to use the 4150 style throttle body to utilize the TV cable bracket without any custom bracketry required for standard LS style EFI throttle bodies/intakes. It still uses the factory style 0411 PCM, Holley single plane intake/fuel rails/throttle body, and all hooked together with a PSI Conversions harness.

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This setup worked very well until August 2020 when the engine called an audible at an event. That turned out to be a spun rod bearing!! The crank was damaged slightly and it got the oil pump. The crank is still useable, but the machine shop wasn't comfortable using an undersized crank for a "race" engine.

So...version 2.3 is now sporting a new forged crank, new forged rods, and still using the forged pistons from the last go-round, and a new Melling high pressure oil pump. The only valvetrain change was a new double roller timing chain since the previous chain was showing signs of excessive stretch. This combo should be much reliable seeing the constant high rpms.

I decided a new paint combo was in order. I'm still using the VHT Cast Iron engine paint color, but covered the whole engine for a more uniform look. I've also painted the accessory brackets black. The engine isn't installed yet, so I'll get photos of it assembled later.

[MySons68C20]

Great update with all the info and videos.....appreciate it!

[gringoloco]

Care to share your cam specs? Would be nice to get some torque back after the swap to the carb style intake. Engine looks great

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Care to share your cam specs? Would be nice to get some torque back after the swap to the carb style intake. Engine looks great

[gringoloco]

Thanks! Any issues tuning idle with that 109° LSA? I bet she chops really nicely

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Thanks! Any issues tuning idle with that 109° LSA? I bet she chops really nicely

It does have a slightly rich idle that's almost impossible to tune out due to the overlap, so it's a compromise. It still tends to load up when sitting in traffic for long periods which can be cured with a couple neutral revs. But, it works well with my 2800 stall converter, and it's designed to run hard.

Yeah, it has a healthy chop!!

You Tube

[87chevy.com]

phew, that dyno video confirmed my suspicion on belt tensioner routing. when i designed my L83 belt drive, it was looking awesome, tensioner where you have it, driver side between p/s pump and crank.... and just like i researched, scrapped the setup and put it on the passenger side similar to a factory setup.

no manufacturer has on the driver side right before the crank for a good reason, crank is pulling on the belt and its just flapping in the wind on the opposite side (just like your video) as the tension is being pulled on the driver side and just letting it loose on the other... i'd recommend re-configuring it to prevent a towtruck ride home

clint

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

phew, that dyno video confirmed my suspicion on belt tensioner routing. when i designed my L83 belt drive, it was looking awesome, tensioner where you have it, driver side between p/s pump and crank.... and just like i researched, scrapped the setup and put it on the passenger side similar to a factory setup.

no manufacturer has on the driver side right before the crank for a good reason, crank is pulling on the belt and its just flapping in the wind on the opposite side (just like your video) as the tension is being pulled on the driver side and just letting it loose on the other... i'd recommend re-configuring it to prevent a towtruck ride home

clint

I've had this accessory drive setup for about 4 years, now. I've not had any major belt issues, but the company does offer an improved idler/tensioner setup on the passenger side of the engine. so, it's on the way.

https://www.ictbillet.com/ls-truck-l...tensioner.html

[68Stepbed]

Engine/trans are back in!!

I decided to put them in together rather than benchpress the transmission while aligning the dowel pins and bolt holes.



I was kinda busy not to scratch anything to get "in progress" photos, but got these just after setting it all in.







Got the water pump, accessory drive setup bolted on, and got part of the steam line plumbed in, but need to get a steam collection manifold and tie in the rear ports. Also cleaned up some of the wiring. since it was all done in a rush last time.





I'm currently waiting on more parts to show up before I can move much further.

[jjzepplin]

Very nice work. I am going to have to read the whole thread.

[68Stepbed]

Some more progress. The transmission was giving me some fits the past couple years, so I had it gone through to make sure of any issues. The builder said it had signs of overheated fluid. So, I decided to bypass the the cooler system in the radiator and install both a trans cooler and a deep trans pan from Derale.







It only took me about 4 attempts, but I was finally able to get the cooler lines bent correctly. Here's the end result.






So, for the past several years, I've been able to run only a single 16" fan mounted directly to the radiator with no issues. However, with the added trans cooler, and power steering cooler, I figured a fan shroud was a good upgrade to make sure air was being pulled across the entire area. I had a local fab shop bend it up for me.

[68Stepbed]

After some nip & tuck detailing, I've got everything hooked up and looking pretty nice. Hopefully, a few parts and gaskets will get here this week so I can get the headers and exhaust hooked up.

[68Stepbed]

Slick lives again!!!

You Tube

[Wgesnerjr]

Great Job!! Love the look with the air cleaner on top. Nice color choice too.

I noticed that you have the heater hoses blocked off. I remember seeing something that LS engines did not like the heater lines capped off. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong) I think you had to loop them to solve the issue.

It was suggested to run a u-hose to solve. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/BLACKHORSE-RA...31773043&psc=1

I think this was where I read it:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ht=heater+hose

Thanks for the write up!

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

Great Job!! Love the look with the air cleaner on top. Nice color choice too.

I noticed that you have the heater hoses blocked off. I remember seeing something that LS engines did not like the heater lines capped off. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong) I think you had to loop them to solve the issue.

It was suggested to run a u-hose to solve. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/BLACKHORSE-RA...31773043&psc=1

I think this was where I read it:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ht=heater+hose

Thanks for the write up!

I've had the ports blocked off since I did the swap several years ago. I've never had an issue with overheating or cooling.