TA_C10: Stage 1

[cornerstone]

Dude! Congratulations!! It really looks good to me. If it is better in person I'd say you nailed it. What all were you able to get painted tonight? I wish I was able to get over and learn a bit, since I'm a noob at painting. Maybe when you spray the bed I can make it.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Dude! Congratulations!! It really looks good to me. If it is better in person I'd say you nailed it. What all were you able to get painted tonight? I wish I was able to get over and learn a bit, since I'm a noob at painting. Maybe when you spray the bed I can make it.

Yeah I wish I would have seen your PM earlier. I could have used the help, it's a lot of work that has to be done in just the right order and having an extra hand would really make things easier and faster. I painted the inside of the cab and firewall only. Because it's metallic I have to assemble the whole truck and paint it all at once so each panel is uniform. So it will be a while before that happens. But when I do I will shoot you a message.

[Jason Banks]

What was the high build primer you used?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

What was the high build primer you used?

I got my epoxy and high build from Summit. HRF came direct from TPC Global.

I got gray epoxy and black high build 2k. Here are my part numbers:

[Scurry67]

Man that's really starting to come together! Nice work! Looking forward to seeing more pics of that color

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Scurry67

Man that's really starting to come together! Nice work! Looking forward to seeing more pics of that color

Thank you sir. Me too. Gonna be a minute though, gotta finish several other things now, get the cab mounted, everything else blasted and primed, stuck back on truck then I can paint it all at once. Stay tuned


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[TA_C10]

Update - Gas Pedal - DBW


I'm ready to mount this cab finally on the frame, but first I need to finish a few things.

1. DBW pedal
2. lizard skin the inner firewall and floor
3. exhaust
4. install torque converter
5. install remote trans cooler
6. install rubber insulated clamps on brake lines and fuel lines
7. install remote battery tray

I started with the DBW pedal. I found other members ideas and ended up doing something similar but had to do my own thing because I had different parts than they did. Member edgooch had a great idea rebuilding his DBW adjustable pedal so I did something similar, but my original pedal was different so I found a way to just utilize the LS pedal instead.

I cut down the main base and the pedal itself. I shaved the pedal arm quite a bit too making it skinnier to fit my application. I think it turned out pretty decent. I then made my own bracket out of 20awg steel. I ended up reinforcing it with 2 extra strips of 20awg just to make sure it was strong enough to handle abuse. I really went fast on this bracket and it's not perfect but it should work.


2005 GM adjustable style pedal I had:





Modified:






Removed this junk:









The new hardware:







Assembled:











Pedal at normal position:





Pedal fully depressed:







The bracket I made. I welded the nuts on the back side creating studs for the pedal. Drilled out the holes in base of pedal. I will be using nylock locking nuts to hold it in place. And I didn't buy hartrod's bracket, or made one identical because I already welded my original screw holes shut when I smoothed the firewall - OOPS!!

[cornerstone]

Great write up and resourcefulness. I hope to be at this stage sooner than later and I've been scratchin my head about what I'll need to do. Thanks.

More painting this weekend?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Great write up and resourcefulness. I hope to be at this stage sooner than later and I've been scratchin my head about what I'll need to do. Thanks.

More painting this weekend?

Yeah, tomorrow I am going to remove some of the dynomat that the PO installed incorrectly up on the firewall area, scuff, clean, lay down some rust converter then spray my leftover lizard skin on the inner firewall, floor, and maybe part of the back wall of cab and down in the cab corners.


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[TA_C10]

Update - Lizard Skin Ceramic - Inside Cab


I love this stuff. It is so easy to shoot and really looks good when done. I bought 1 gallon of this stuff. I put 3 coats under cab and was able to get 4 more coats for inside the cab from high up on firewall all the way to high up on back of cab. I went ahead and coated over the top of the existing dynomat. Got the new DBW pedal installed too.

[TA_C10]

Update - Exhaust


Time for exhaust. I first cut out the cross member using a 4 inch hole saw. I saw LMC or BrotherTrucks makes a really nice kit that helps you template the cut. But instead of spending the money I just traced my 4" hole saw where I wanted the hole, cut a strip of sheet metal, and welded it in the middle. Then I measured the center of hole and drilled a pilot hole. Done.

You will see in my pics I adjusted my center hole as needed. I didn't like where I traced the hole saw. Worked out pretty good. Then I started cutting up my old existing exhaust. I am going to use this exhaust as it still has lots of life left. There will be more on this later. I made it this far today.

[MDPotter]

Nice job on that pedal mod. I cut off all the extra junk and mounted mine, but closer to the firewall. My plan is to bend up a custom rod, I've got custom trim brake and gas pedals on order and want to use them.

[1971Stepside]

Nice progress! Pedal looks good

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Nice job on that pedal mod. I cut off all the extra junk and mounted mine, but closer to the firewall. My plan is to bend up a custom rod, I've got custom trim brake and gas pedals on order and want to use them.

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Nice progress! Pedal looks good

Thanks guys. I am really trying to get this truck done ASAP. So some of my projects aren't getting the attention I wished I could spend on them.

And I fixed my pictures in the last post. Exhaust pics are working now.


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[TA_C10]

Delivery coming today! I'm excited about this one.

[TA_C10]

Brown Truck!









Funny I have heard of places like brothers selling items from other parts suppliers but didn't expect to see this one! It's a reman windshield wiper motor.

[siggyfreud]

I did a similar exhaust mod on my 66 GMC. I was paranoid about the crossmembers, so I found a steel shop and had them cut me some pipe I could weld in to reinforce where I had made holes for the exhaust.

[MDPotter]

It's like Christmas every month building these trucks! What stall did you get?

[splatrd]

Just an FYI. If you run into situation where you need to build up body filler thicker than 1/8", you should consider using fiberglass reinforced filler or "alumafill" metal impregnated filler. The other benefit is both fiberglass filler and metal filler are much more moisture resistant that standard filler which just absorbs moisture like a sponge. Which is why a lot of repairs over metal with pin holes or not fully welded seams will rust out under the filler, and eventually filler will blister and pop off.

From what I could see in the pics, it looked like the molded plastic center vent may not have been flat or did not have correct contour. Unfortunately, our demand for cheap parts means poor quality Chinese crap is usually to blame.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

I did a similar exhaust mod on my 66 GMC. I was paranoid about the crossmembers, so I found a steel shop and had them cut me some pipe I could weld in to reinforce where I had made holes for the exhaust.

Yeah me too, and I was going to do the same thing but after talking to my cousin he was telling me to just box in the crossmember and it will add more strength that the pipe. And it may end up being easier too. Now if this were gonna be a show truck I would do both, box it in and add a 4" pipe through the middle, that would be nice looking. Stay tuned, I've already started boxing it in so I should have pics up soon when I finish.

Originally Posted by MDPotter

It's like Christmas every month building these trucks! What stall did you get?

After talking to them I ended up getting the 278mm HP with 2600-2800 stall. LM7 is stock right now but stage 2 of my build will bring a new cam and few other upgrades shooting for 450-500 at the rear wheel would be nice. But still keeping it a daily driver. That's the plan for the future.

Originally Posted by splatrd

Just an FYI. If you run into situation where you need to build up body filler thicker than 1/8", you should consider using fiberglass reinforced filler or "alumafill" metal impregnated filler. The other benefit is both fiberglass filler and metal filler are much more moisture resistant that standard filler which just absorbs moisture like a sponge. Which is why a lot of repairs over metal with pin holes or not fully welded seams will rust out under the filler, and eventually filler will blister and pop off.

From what I could see in the pics, it looked like the molded plastic center vent may not have been flat or did not have correct contour. Unfortunately, our demand for cheap parts means poor quality Chinese crap is usually to blame.

Yeah I was disappointed with the VA center vent not matching the contour of the dash. I kept hearing now nice these kits are and I never heard of anyone having this issue. I'm assuming at this point they just didn't do anything about it, left the gap hoping nobody will see it.

Thanks for the advice though, I used premium body filler from eastwood, I hope it doesn't have problems..... Live and learn man.

[TA_C10]

Update - Vintage Air firewall holes

I ended up having to redo my paint. I found out I had too much air pressure at the gun so I took advantage and drilled the holes for my VA kit. Not much too it. Taped it to the firewall, drilled a pilot hole in center, then used a step bit, then used a die grinder to finish them up.












I didn't get completed pics. I will take some and post later.


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[TA_C10]

And here we go again, scuffed the paint, taped it off, and sprayed it again. This time the paint came out much smoother, I still needed less air at the gun but it's soooo much better. Turns out my little regulator gauge is crap. Long story short, too much air at the gun atomized the paint too much causing it to almost dry instantly which gives a rough surface to the paint. So I didn't trust the gauge this time and just played with it till I liked the wetness on cardboard. Then tested it on one of my doors. Then shot the truck with 3 more coats. I can run a microfiber towel over it now and it doesn't catch like it did before. When I do the whole truck, I will dial the air back just a tad more and I think it will be good to go.

[TA_C10]

And after finishing paint, I got to work on boxing the trailing arm crossmember where I cut the holes for exhaust. I was talking with my cousin and convinced me that boxing in the xmember will be both stronger and easier than welding in a piece of 4" pipe in the hole. Stay tuned for more on this.

[TA_C10]

Update - Boxing in the trailing arm xmember

Got the plates cut and fitting. Tacked them into place. Next I will burn them all the way in and cut the 4" holes for the exhaust. These guys should really beef up the structure. I'm also thinking I will box in the frame rail right next to the xmember just because I have the steel. I might take a piece and box in the power steering box too.

[TA_C10]

Update - Boxed the T.A. CrossMember


TA X-Member is boxed. Turned out better than I expected. Welds had good penetration. Holes cut for exhaust. I still plan to box in at the frame rail a little bit. I should have enough steel plate left over to box in the frame rail behind the power steering gear too. I don't think our lowered 2wd trucks have the frame cracking issue like the the 4wd trucks do but whatever, cheap insurance.









3 drills and 2 batteries later, the holes are cut