65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[62c30]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Began scuffing the street side of the rear wheel wells and then applied a couple of coats of 3M rubberized undercoat. I did some rudimentary body work over the pie cuts before priming with epoxy but was still pleased to see how much evil the undercoat hides.

Which 3m undercoat did you use? I've seen several different ones. I was going to use raptor liner on some inner fenders but I'm thinking about undercoat instead.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Your metal skills are impressive. Wish I had a bead roller, or you were my neighbor

I agree - it's always great to have a like-minded neighbor. I bought my "Low Buck Tools" bead roller years ago and never regretted the purchase. Since then, I've modified it with a HF winch, so I don't have to ask Kathy to be my helper. It's a very handy tool for all sorts of metal shaping.

Originally Posted by 62c30

Which 3m undercoat did you use? I've seen several different ones. I was going to use raptor liner on some inner fenders but I'm thinking about undercoat instead.

I usually use the 3M 08964 Body Schutz, but it requires a special applicator gun and throwaway plastic tube. I ran across a deal for the 03584-aerosol version and decided to give it a try. I think the Body Schutz goes on thicker and is more durable, but neither product is as tough as Raptor or other bed liners. My goal was more cosmetic than durability, so the aerosol works okay in that regard.

[Vic1947]

The floor pan is finally assembled with SS rivets and 3M panel adhesive. The trans tunnel is held in place for the time being with clecos. I'm trying to decide whether to make it removeable. If I don't, Murphy's Law will make me regret it. I put all the rear suspension back in and set it up at ride height so I could measure the tire/wheel clearances. Looks like I'll be able to fit a 315/40-18 tire on an 11" rim and have plenty of room. Seam sealer is going on where panel assembly is complete.

[62c30]

Looks damn good!

[KevinK7]

Looks amazing, ...you have a lot of hours into that.

[SCOTI]

Sheetmetal efforts are on point. If there's a way to have the tunnel as an easy access point for service, it's not a bad idea. But not sure how much impact that has on a clean interior design to aid that accessibility (?).

315/40-18 is TALL @ ~28" for a Pro-Touring type of build.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by 62c30

Looks damn good!

Thanks! Now that school has started up again, I need to get over your way and grab that dash. No hurry but when the weather is nice it's more fun rooting around the salvage yard.

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Looks amazing, ...you have a lot of hours into that.

Amen to that and I appreciate the kind words! At least the progress is starting to show.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Sheetmetal efforts are on point. If there's a way to have the tunnel as an easy access point for service, it's not a bad idea. But not sure how much impact that has on a clean interior design to aid that accessibility (?).

315/40-18 is TALL @ ~28" for a Pro-Touring type of build.

Thx for the input. I'm not sure the tunnel will be all that accessible once the console and infotainment panel are in place. Right now, it's a snap to R&R the engine and trans as a unit. If I install the front section of the tunnel permanently, I'd have to drop the tranny before yanking the engine. I need to get my mind right and make that a problem for future Vic.

I agree on the tire size, I think I've been feeling obligated to fill up the wheel wells after all that work widening them. Lots of choices on the wheel/tire websites. You can spend a bunch of time trying to find a combo that has a decent tread pattern and comes in suitable aspect ratios. I've always preferred a bit taller sidewall, so I've been avoiding 19-20" diameters. I also like a staggered, wider rear tire/wheel setup. It's going to be a while before I actually need them, so I have time to figure out what works.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Thanks! Now that school has started up again, I need to get over your way and grab that dash. No hurry but when the weather is nice it's more fun rooting around the salvage yard.

Amen to that and I appreciate the kind words! At least the progress is starting to show.

Thx for the input. I'm not sure the tunnel will be all that accessible once the console and infotainment panel are in place. Right now, it's a snap to R&R the engine and trans as a unit. If I install the front section of the tunnel permanently, I'd have to drop the tranny before yanking the engine. I need to get my mind right and make that a problem for future Vic.

I agree on the tire size, I think I've been feeling obligated to fill up the wheel wells after all that work widening them. Lots of choices on the wheel/tire websites. You can spend a bunch of time trying to find a combo that has a decent tread pattern and comes in suitable aspect ratios. I've always preferred a bit taller sidewall, so I've been avoiding 19-20" diameters. I also like a staggered, wider rear tire/wheel setup. It's going to be a while before I actually need them, so I have time to figure out what works.

What were you thinking for fronts (wheel tire sizes)?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What were you thinking for fronts (wheel tire sizes)?

I was originally leaning toward a 245/45-18 on an 8" rim. However, you've got me thinking a lower profile rear might be more suitable. Online, I see a few 11-12" wide tires in a lower profile that wouldn't end up being so tall. Filling up the mini tubs shouldn't necessarily be the goal. When the car is on the ground, the size of the wheel tub can't be discerned anyway unless you offset the wheel/tire way too much inboard.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I was originally leaning toward a 245/45-18 on an 8" rim. However, you've got me thinking a lower profile rear might be more suitable. Online, I see a few 11-12" wide tires in a lower profile that wouldn't end up being so tall. Filling up the mini tubs shouldn't necessarily be the goal. When the car is on the ground, the size of the wheel tub can't be discerned anyway unless you offset the wheel/tire way too much inboard.

245/45-18 = 26.7" tall.

I'm doing a 255/40-18 on a 9" wide wheel @ 26" for the front of a g-body Malibu & that's considered 'tall' for a mid-size "pro-touring" ride. Most are less than 26" up front for sure.

A 315/30-18 = 25.4" for reference of a very common 18" pro-touring rear. Many are opting for staggered 18(F)/19(R) combos now w/a 325/30-19 @ 26.7" tall.

I'm all about a 4" tall sidewall (as close as possible if not 4") for best ride quality.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

245/45-18 = 26.7" tall.

I'm doing a 255/40-18 on a 9" wide wheel @ 26" for the front of a g-body Malibu & that's considered 'tall' for a mid-size "pro-touring" ride. Most are less than 26" up front for sure.

A 315/30-18 = 25.4" for reference of a very common 18" pro-touring rear. Many are opting for staggered 18(F)/19(R) combos now w/a 325/30-19 @ 26.7" tall.

I'm all about a 4" tall sidewall (as close as possible if not 4") for best ride quality.

I agree on the sidewall - at my age comfort is a bigger deal than style. I haven't been looking at 19" stuff, but it might be worth investigating.

The weather has turned nice enough to lay down some epoxy primer before winter arrives. I had the entire car dipped almost two years ago and some very light surface rust has started to appear in places. Generally speaking, if you don't touch the bare metal without wearing gloves, it will stay rust free for a very long time. But that's hard to do when you're patching around on it. I dusted off the doors to start prepping them and was blown away by how nice they are. Usually there's rust on the underside of the door jambs, but these are like the day they rolled outta the factory. The hood and trunk lid are similarly nice, so I have a lot to be thankful for. Helps make up for all the other tinworm I've had to fight.

[62c30]

The weather here has cooled down some, maybe towards the end of the month or first of next month. I want to spend more time looking around the yard next time.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by 62c30

The weather here has cooled down some, maybe towards the end of the month or first of next month. I want to spend more time looking around the yard next time.

That sounds great. I just realized i'm going to need a right rear, pot metal quarter panel extension. Mine took a hit and someone repaired it by shoveling Bondo and fiberglass into it. So maybe when we go, I can scrounge that in addition to the dash.

[Ol Blue K20]

Looking good! Nice work Vic

[SCOTI]

The doors do look clean. Very clean.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looking good! Nice work Vic

Thanks, Dale!

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The doors do look clean. Very clean.

I agree - I lucked out on the doors, hood and trunk lid. For that matter, the bulk of the ugly was below the floors so overall I won't have a huge amount of body work to do when the time comes. Silver lining stuff.

I'm working on the seat mounts at the moment. I ended up cutting windows in the floor where the seat track mounts go. I toyed with the idea of profiling the track mounts and setting them on top of the floor, but I decided this approach might be a bit stronger in the end.

I was surprised at how large the seats seemed to be when I actually got them in the car. They came out of a BMW M3 convertible which isn't all that big a vehicle. After tacking the mounts in on the driver side, I sat down in it and it feels really good. I think once the rest of the interior is in place, they won't look out of place.

[SCOTI]

Looks good from my screen. How much head-room are you getting?

Did you do the 'elbow' test (elbow on the door frame w/the window down)? That is usually a fair indicator of placement for automotive ergonomics.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks good from my screen. How much head-room are you getting?

Did you do the 'elbow' test (elbow on the door frame w/the window down)? That is usually a fair indicator of placement for automotive ergonomics.

Seems like plenty of headroom - a full hand width between the top of my noggin and the roof. Of course, the headliner will reduce that some. I'll have to hang a door for a more accurate test but using the "air door" technique, it seems fine. My problem with these older model cars are the traffic signals. I end up hunching down and leaning forward to see if the light is still red. Or, at my age, waiting for someone to honk behind me.

[Vic1947]

Pulled the engine and transmission and set them aside for the moment. The natural extension of the work I've been doing on the floor and tunnel is the firewall. I want a nice smooth surface in place of the OEM firewall, so it had to go. Before making any cuts, I had to mockup the FR microsteer column and get some measurements for where the column shaft would pass through the firewall. Sketched it out so I'd have a better chance of remembering the numbers - assuming I can find the sketch later on.

Then it was time to make some cuts. I used 3/4 tape to mark the edges and between the Sawsall and the metal wheel of death, I got the main area out. The new panel will overlap the existing edges and I'll use panel adhesive and SS rivets to attach it. Once the adhesive is set, I'll use a spotweld cutter to remove the rivet heads. Along the way, I'll have to build a recess where the brake/clutch pedal assembly goes. Even with the compact Wilwood brake M/C's it will be a tight fit since the back of the heads are so close to the f/w.

Of course, there were couple of places where I have to build out the edge where the new panel attaches. No big deal - just a bit time consuming. Hope to have the new f/w installed in a few days.

[jaros44sr]

Awesome work looks like streering shaft lined up pretty good

Got to play with the 3M 08115, thanks for tips

Actually viscouty dang spell check, was rather thin

image by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Got to play with the 3M 08115, thanks for tips

Actually, viscosity dang spell check, was rather thin

Glad it worked out for you. It's there forever with no distortion. Plus, you can grind it smooth, do bodywork and paint over it if you so desire. It may have been thin if the cartridge is new. I know when a cartridge I've opened then resealed sits for a long time, it comes out thicker. Still works well, though.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Glad it worked out for you. It's there forever with no distortion. Plus, you can grind it smooth, do bodywork and paint over it if you so desire. It may have been thin if the cartridge is new. I know when a cartridge I've opened then resealed sits for a long time, it comes out thicker. Still works well, though.

What did you use for clean up?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

What did you use for clean up?

I use lacquer thinner. I use it for cleaning a lot of stuff, so I keep a 5-gallon pail handy.

[Vic1947]

The new firewall is roughed in. Now comes the tedious part - recessing an area for the brake/clutch pedal assembly, mounting the gas pedal, attaching the front of the tunnel to the f/w, installing the steering column and making some decorative panels to simulate bead rolling. The material I used is 14 gauge and way too heavy for my low buck roller, so I had to come up with an alternative.

You can see how I approached making the basic panel. I added flanges where necessary to fill in where I cut the OEM panel. I then laid the OEM panel I'd removed on top of the flat stock and carefully traced around it. Then I added 3/4 tape all around the Sharpie line. I cut along the tape edge and then made many trips to the bandsaw and belt sander to get it to fit. As I mentioned before, I'll use panel adhesive and SS rivets when it's time for final assembly. Between adhesive and Bondo, the few gaps around the edge will disappear.

The inner fenderwell panels where I removed the shock towers should look good with the new firewall. They'll also get the faux bead roller treatment.

[Vic1947]

more f/w pics....