LS engine swap info

[Donnie Lee]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

This depends on how you want to do the swap, i.e. how much do you want to spend? or what is your skill level with wiring?
You can buy a plug and play harness/pcm that all you have to do is connect like 4 wires or you can completely rework the stock harness and have the pcm reflashed.
It's not hard but it does take some time and a whole lot of patients.
Brendon at lt1swap.com can reprogram your pcm and he has some info about the harness : HERE

mcbassin, who sells the plug & play harness/pcm?; looking for engine for '50 model truck & am getting discouraged with info from numerous conversations regarding using LS engine/trans.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Donnie Lee

mcbassin, who sells the plug & play harness/pcm?; looking for engine for '50 model truck & am getting discouraged with info from numerous conversations regarding using LS engine/trans.

Modern Vintage Systems, Painless, BP Automotive, Speartech...just to name a few.

[Donnie Lee]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Modern Vintage Systems, Painless, BP Automotive, Speartech...just to name a few.

Thanks Hart Rod, i spoke with two vendors yesterday from the above mentioned.

[68 Four on the Floor]

Originally Posted by Donnie Lee

mcbassin, who sells the plug & play harness/pcm?; looking for engine for '50 model truck & am getting discouraged with info from numerous conversations regarding using LS engine/trans.

Have you cheked the ls swap classifieds on this forum?

[A1971Blazer]

I found this guy in Florida and had him rework the factory harness that came with the LS1 that I got from a 2002 TransAm...he did a great job at a reasonable price...I think it was around $350.....
http://www.standaloneharness.com/ls-engine.html

[doublebeetx]

My 64 had a 6 cylinder in it. I have a set of V8 stands which mount in a forward location of the stock 6 cylinder stands. I bought adapter plates for my 4.8 to use standard motor mounts. Any ideas on which stands will be better to use ? Thanks for any advice.

[Donnie Lee]

Originally Posted by 68 Four on the Floor

Have you cheked the ls swap classifieds on this forum?

I've looked thru several pages of the classifieds & did not see a reprogrammed harness for '05 GTO engine & auto trans.

[Donnie Lee]

Question on oil pans; we have '05 GTO LS2 with factory front sump oil pan & need to change to rear sump. After much searching it appears the LS1 pan #12628771 is what we need. When you change to this oil pan do you also change the oil pump pickup, windage tray, dipstick tube, dipstick, o-ring for oil pump pickup. I found the part #'s for all these items on LS1 Tech in the LSX Oil Pan thread. Of course we would change the pan gasket as well & all of the bolts if I can find them listed.

Thanks For Any Assistance

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Donnie Lee

Question on oil pans; we have '05 GTO LS2 with factory front sump oil pan & need to change to rear sump. After much searching it appears the LS1 pan #12628771 is what we need. When you change to this oil pan do you also change the oil pump pickup, windage tray, dipstick tube, dipstick, o-ring for oil pump pickup. I found the part #'s for all these items on LS1 Tech in the LSX Oil Pan thread. Of course we would change the pan gasket as well & all of the bolts if I can find them listed.

Thanks For Any Assistance

Yes, you'll need the pick up tube, windage tray and dipstick tube. When you have the GTO pan off, don't forget to knock out the little plug in the block where the dipstick goes, otherwise you'll be pulling the pan again!

[Donnie Lee]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Yes, you'll need the pick up tube, windage tray and dipstick tube. When you have the GTO pan off, don't forget to knock out the little plug in the block where the dipstick goes, otherwise you'll be pulling the pan again!

Thanks ls1nova; so we reuse the original dipstick?, & the plug removed for the new dipstick location, is that plug instsalled in the original dispstick location?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Donnie Lee

Thanks ls1nova; so we reuse the original dipstick?, & the plug removed for the new dipstick location, is that plug instsalled in the original dispstick location?

You need to match the dipstick and tube to what ever pan you are using, they're all different. The new dipstick will go in he block, that's where the plug is, the GTO the dipstick tube goes into the pan.

[tlorber]

Here is a site i came across a while back that may provide some info.

http://www.improvedracing.com/LS-oil-pan-dimensions.php

[Donnie Lee]

Originally Posted by tlorber

Here is a site i came across a while back that may provide some info.

http://www.improvedracing.com/LS-oil-pan-dimensions.php

Thanks tlorber

The Fbody pan is what we need; at GM parts direct it appears the pan does not come with new bolts, don't see them for the windage tray either. Are these bolts re-usable, if not has anyone ordered these separately?

[aggie91]

The oil pan bolts and windage tray bolts are reusable.

[Donnie Lee]

Originally Posted by aggie91

The oil pan bolts and windage tray bolts are reusable.

Thanks aggie91; I talked with the local Chevy parts guy & new bolts come with the pan & windage tray.

New question, do we use antiseize on the oil pan bolts?

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by Donnie Lee

New question, do we use antiseize on the oil pan bolts?

You don't need to, but it couldn't hurt to put a little on them

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Donnie Lee

Thanks aggie91; I talked with the local Chevy parts guy & new bolts come with the pan & windage tray.

New question, do we use antiseize on the oil pan bolts?

I don't unless its an aluminum block.

[Scotts Elle]

There are a few links that have since expired or are dead at the beginning of this thread. Also, many pictures are linked to "free" hosting accounts that require the hosting person to sign up for third party hosting. Can anyone please provide the vacuum check valve fitting for the brake booster? The fitting I have for the LS motor is larger than the barbed check valve on the existing booster.

Also, does the coil power feed provide 12v while cranking on a stock 67 engine harness? Wiring diagrams are not very clear. I have my LS installed and it cranks but will not fire. I have fuel pressure, VATS was disabled and base tune loaded. Data logging while cranking doesn't show much.

[tlorber]

Scotts,
I'm not clear on the question referencing a '67 harness. If using an LS motor, are you not using an LS harness/PCM? If so, are they the ones that originally came with that motor?

Coil packs should be getting voltage while cranking.
Also, if the motor was sitting for a long time, it would be worth checking and cleaning the injectors. I doubt they would cause a non-fire situation but clean injectors will definitely help it run better.

[Scotts Elle]

Thanks for the help!

I have a LS harness but it needs a 12V switched from the truck. I tied the switched 12 volt into the old 67 engine harness using the old coil wire but not sure if its powered during cranking.

The motor/trans/PCM and harness was pulled from a 04 Avalanche. It was running when pulled a couple months ago. Followed LT1swap for harness modification and was able to test fire it before installing it.

[tlorber]

As a permanent solution, it would probably be better to build a stand alone harness/fuse block for powering up the PCM-that way you are not relying on any potential issues with the existing '67 harness. Here is a link to the page on the lt1 site. Near the bottom of the page it shows the fuse block that gets key hot/battery hot power to run the PCM independently of anything else.

http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

As a temporary measure, you can locate the pcm, fuel pump, and coil wires and connect them to a key hot or battery hot circuit. Then tap a direct, heavy wire from the battery to the starter to kick it over. You may also want to temporarily bypass the pcm controller for the fuel pump, and just feed a key hot line to the fuel pump. The pcm will only allow the fuel pump to run for a couple seconds without sensing the engine cranking over. Even if the engine is cranking, you are not certain that the PCM is sensing it if all sensors are not hooked up properly. I try to remove as many variables as possible until you can pinpoint the problem.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Scotts Elle

There are a few links that have since expired or are dead at the beginning of this thread. Also, many pictures are linked to "free" hosting accounts that require the hosting person to sign up for third party hosting. Can anyone please provide the vacuum check valve fitting for the brake booster? The fitting I have for the LS motor is larger than the barbed check valve on the existing booster.

Also, does the coil power feed provide 12v while cranking on a stock 67 engine harness? Wiring diagrams are not very clear. I have my LS installed and it cranks but will not fire. I have fuel pressure, VATS was disabled and base tune loaded. Data logging while cranking doesn't show much.

Definitely check and clean the injectors. I experienced the same no fire issue with an engine that had set for a good while. Had power every where I needed and the coils where firing when they should. Ended up pulling all 8 injectors and ALL of them where stuck. Cleaned them and made a harness to cycle each one with a drill battery to make sure they clicked open and closed before reinstalling them. Put them all back in and the truck fired up the first crank...To clean mine, I pulled them out, pulled the o-rings off and soaked them in a pan of berrymans carb cleaner over night. I had to tap most of them on a hard surface to get them to cycle while applying 12 volts. I also sprayed brake clean in each one with it held open with the battery and blew thru each one to get all the gunk cleaned out of them.

As for the 12v coil wire, it should have power while cranking. Make sure it is not a resistance wire or has a resistor inline. This wire needs to be a full 12v for the PCM. That is how I have my '65 wired, I just replaced the coil wire with a regular 16 ga wire from the plug on the firewall all the way to the PCM.

If you followed the lt1swap.com rework, then you should have already made the relay/fuse block that tlorber talks about.

[Scotts Elle]

Thanks all. I did end up checking the coil wire and it was hot during cranking. There was 2 issues (of course, 100% was me rushing and missed things). The crank position sensor was only lightly pushed into it connector. I had set it there a week or so back and thought, "I will pull the starter later to plug that in". Being hidden, I completely missed it.

The other issue was the Holley returnless in tank pump was wired in reverse. When I tested the fuel system before installing the motor, it worked great. All lines pressured up to 60psi, no leaks... When I installed the connector and wired the relay for its final install, I reversed the leads. I heard the fuel pump kick on so I thought it was fine when I was trouble shooting. I was going to pull the injectors and noticed that the fuels didn't release any pressure. That's what tipped me off.

Anyone know the brake booster check valve part number? The hose is larger on the intake that the original hose to the stock booster.

[aggie91]

For the Check Valve, try Dorman 80190 or 80189. One of them comes with new grommets.

[LostMy65]

Here's some good reading.
http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-st...kyard-ls-swap/
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tec...ags-to-riches/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...to-ls-engines/