47-55.1 Starting a 52 Chevy 3100 Project.

[joedoh]

wow! that looks amazing

[Rusti]

Looks verry impressive! Grate work on that truck.

[28TudorAZ]

Well wired up the front end. Headlights, turn signals, and horns. Also put some LED headlights with H4 bulbs on it. Next up the rear taillights and license plate lights. I need to take the driveline back off so hoping to do that this week because its an inch too long.

[joedoh]

wiring fun! keep at it!

[28TudorAZ]

Shipped it off for wiring and to finish the exhaust.

[28TudorAZ]

Took some pictures today.

[Tempest67]

looks great, nice work, congratulations

[joedoh]

look at how great that looks out in the sun! congrats!

[Zippi]

Not much into the patina look but I would take that all day long dude. Nice.

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

Exactly. Everyone has heard. I researched it quite a bit and never found anyone who actually had the issue. Did find a video explaining why it changes the gravity a little but said it was not enough to actually cause any issues. My guess would be guys with big trucks with big heavy tires have problems with spacers and bearings. There are arguments that go both ways. I really didn't want to spend $1000 for some custom A-arms. Maybe down the road if I have issues but I suspect I will not.

Truck looks awesome. Not to hijack this thread but what are the options for longer control arms? thanks...

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

looks great, nice work, congratulations

Thanks

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by joedoh

look at how great that looks out in the sun! congrats!

It does. It will look even better driving back in. 😁

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by Zippi

Not much into the patina look but I would take that all day long dude. Nice.

Thanks. I would prefer paint but building for my dad and thats what he wants. I do think it looks pretty cool though.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by Desert1957

Truck looks awesome. Not to hijack this thread but what are the options for longer control arms? thanks...

http://michiganmetalworks.com/store/...product_id=144

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

Put a neutral safety switch on a 700r4. Built this bracket. I used a 4l60e neutral safety switch and shifter shaft.

I am trying to duplicate what you have done with the neutral safety switch. Where did you get the longer 4L60E shifter shaft?

Thanks.

Wade

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by Driver_WT

I am trying to duplicate what you have done with the neutral safety switch. Where did you get the longer 4L60E shifter shaft?

Thanks.

Wade

I went down to my local transmission shop. Just make sure the one you buy is for the 4L60E as it is longer.

https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-ori...SABEgKqXPD_BwE

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

I went down to my local transmission shop. Just make sure the one you buy is for the 4L60E as it is longer.

https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-ori...SABEgKqXPD_BwE

Thanks very much. I searched for an hour (before I posted here) and could not find that

Quick Update: I discovered the correct part number for the longer shaft is ACDELCO 24235194 {#24210711} . From Summit Racing "The ACDelco 24210712 shift selector shaft measures 102.5 mm long. There is also a part number 24235194 which measures 128 mm in length." Best price is at Rockauto.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by joedoh

yeah a 4x4 blazer or truck axle will eliminate spacers. if you plan to tuck the front dont get a zr2, it will look really wide compared to the front if you go with a standard backspace front wheel.

So I am finishing up a few things. The truck is in the shop getting the exhaust finished up so I am revisiting the wheels. With these wheels Classic Torq Thrust II 20x8 5x4.75 4.5" Backspace how far in will the wheels be? I have not been able to find something with a 3.5 backspacing. What if I stick with this size wheel for the front and back? Do you suggest wider in the back? Also what size tires did you end up using?

[dsraven]

Best thing to do is a dimension check with a drawing. Axle width at wheel mount surface, box width fro. Side to side on inner surface of fender opening and at the outermost part of the box sides behind the wheels. Use a plumb Bob and mark the floor or use a piece of lumber on the ground. Make sure the truck is level side to side when doing this. That way you know exactly what you have to work with before you buy tires. Ensure to leave room for the amount the tires will bulge with air pressure in them and allow space for suspension movement side to side so tires dont rub going around corners.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

So I am finishing up a few things. The truck is in the shop getting the exhaust finished up so I am revisiting the wheels. With these wheels Classic Torq Thrust II 20x8 5x4.75 4.5" Backspace how far in will the wheels be? I have not been able to find something with a 3.5 backspacing. What if I stick with this size wheel for the front and back? Do you suggest wider in the back? Also what size tires did you end up using?

if you havent swapped out the rear axle, you can use that size front and rear and a 2-2.5" spacer on the front and a 3" spacer on the rear.

I have never used a 4x4 axle. when I did the 20s without spacers I used 20x9 with 3.5" backspace, on this truck I have 20x8 with 4.5 backspace and a 3" spacer on the rear, on another truck I did a 15x10 (rears) with 4" backspace and no spacer, on yet another I did 15x8 with 4.5" backspace and a 2" spacer. There are a lot of ways to get there. If you did a 20x10 with the least backspace they sell, I think is 4", and the 20x8 on the front, it would look astounding but you stil lmay need a small spacer on a stock s10 axle.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by joedoh

if you havent swapped out the rear axle, you can use that size front and rear and a 2-2.5" spacer on the front and a 3" spacer on the rear.

I have never used a 4x4 axle. when I did the 20s without spacers I used 20x9 with 3.5" backspace, on this truck I have 20x8 with 4.5 backspace and a 3" spacer on the rear, on another truck I did a 15x10 (rears) with 4" backspace and no spacer, on yet another I did 15x8 with 4.5" backspace and a 2" spacer. There are a lot of ways to get there. If you did a 20x10 with the least backspace they sell, I think is 4", and the 20x8 on the front, it would look astounding but you stil lmay need a small spacer on a stock s10 axle.

What about a 17x7 Wheel with 4 backspacing 0 offset? I basically want this style of wheel https://www.americanracing.com/wheels/torq-thrust/ with no spacers if I can. The bigger the better but anything 17's and over should be good. I do not have a problem swapping out the rear end. I am more worried about the front. All the wheels I found that were 20x8 with 3.5 backspacing were $600 per wheel.

[joedoh]

backspace is the wrong way to talk about what you want your wheels to look like, so lets talk about FRONTspace instead.

first a little info:

backspace and wheel width mean a lot, offset and wheel width means even more. a 4" backspace 7 inch wheel will fit (very) differently than a 4" backspace 9 inch wheel. this is because of frontspace. same thing with different widths but having the same offset.

wheel width is measured bead to bead. a wheel is ~1" wider lip to lip than its stated width because of the lips. so a 7 inch wide wheel is 8 inches wide with a tape measure lip to lip. a 6 inch wheel is 7 inches wide. etc.

backspace is the measurement from the rear LIP to the axle mounting surface.

offset is the measurement from the wheel centerline to the axle mounting surface.

this is why I talked about the width lip to lip measurement, because backspace takes 1/2" of the lip into account. so the wheel you just described, 7 inches wide, 4 inch backspace, 0 offset. 0 offset indicates the axle mounting is exactly in the center of the wheel. a 7 inch wide wheel is 8 inches wide lip to lip, and 4 inches of backspace means the axle mounting surface is indeed in the exact center.


to run without spacers, I know that a 10 inch wide wheel with 4" backspace will fill up the rear fender, no spacers. this is what it looked like.




a 10 inch wide wheel is 11 inches lip to lip, and 4 inches of backspace means that the wheel has 11-4 =7 inches of frontspace.

compare that to your 7 inch wide 4 inch backspace wheel, it will have 8-4 = 4 inches of frontspace. thats why wheels like this need a 2.5-3 inch spacer.


in the front I think that same truck had 15x8 with 4" backspace, which is 9-4 = 5 inches front space, and it looked great. it may need a 1" spacer in the rear because the fender spacing seems to be different front to rear on ADs, there is more width to the fender in the rear.

[dsraven]

that's why I mentioned to draw it out on paper, like a cross section view, so you will know before you buy wheels or spacers or a new zip disc. get your dimensions and draw it out for a good visual before the money leaves the wallet. leave room for the tire sidewall bulge past the extra width of the wheel lip (which will be more on an aluminum wheel than a steel wheel), suspension, wheels turning up front etc. remember if a spacer is used the front wheels will no longer turn on a dime, they will turn in an arc because they are further away from the axis, this can affect tire to fender fitment etc. consider scrub radius changes. homework guys. it does pay off though.

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...november-2019/

https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

[28TudorAZ]

Thanks for the info on the wheels. Well the truck is driving. I figured out the computer and timing issues I was having. I also had a lifter sticking which I thought was a more serious issue. I have switched out the front spacers to 1" because I didnt like the way it drove. I also got rid of the crappy steering column that I bought of ebay. Went with an Ididit steering column and a Lokar shifter. So much better. I also finished spraying the doors. The exhaust Y got finished by a shop. Here are a few pics.

Still have a few things to finish on the interior. I bought the 1 piece door window conversion kit which hopefully arrives this week. Also can't get the doors to latch properly and after some research looks like I will be ordering some new door latches.

[Zippi]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

Thanks for the info on the wheels. Well the truck is driving. I figured out the computer and timing issues I was having. I also had a lifter sticking which I thought was a more serious issue. I have switched out the front spacers to 1" because I didnt like the way it drove. I also got rid of the crappy steering column that I bought of ebay. Went with an Ididit steering column and a Lokar shifter. So much better. I also finished spraying the doors. The exhaust Y got finished by a shop. Here are a few pics.

Still have a few things to finish on the interior. I bought the 1 piece door window conversion kit which hopefully arrives this week. Also can't get the doors to latch properly and after some research looks like I will be ordering some new door latches.

Sweet looking ride man. I had problems with my doors not wanted to latch all the time. I tried these door latch repair clips and my doors work great now. $4.50 a pop unless your just wanting new latches.