78 2wd Blazer - LS Swap and more..

[OutlawDrifter]

Originally Posted by phillipm

TO EVERYONE THAT MAY READ MY THREADS. AS AN AVID USER OF PHOTOBUCKET.COM FOR OVER 15 YEARS ALL OF MY PICTURES AND HOT LINKS HAVE BEEN NUKED. I DON'T KNOW IF THEY WILL EVER GET BACK AS I'M NOT WILLING TO PAY $400.00 RANSOM TO DO SO.

Thank you for your time.

Frustrated,
Phillip

Agreed on the frustrated part. I lost pictures in 8 of my build threads.

[phillipm]

Originally Posted by Dads79GMC

I would like to know specifics on the speedo and tach. Thought you mentioned you purchased the smaller ones, not five inch?? Did you direct wire all the gauges?

Thanks Mike

Yes I started with the 3 3/8" or so gauges. I didn't want a needle as long as what comes on the 5". However the movements are the same. After pulling the housings apart, I pulled the needles and the movements. After that I created my own faces and then mounted them into the factory housing. This did require hacking away quite a bit of the factory housing. The toughest part really was reinstalling the ODO/Trip reset rod. I had to lengthen it and I ended up using a ballpoint pen ink rod to do that.

After that I used HP tuners to line up the RPM needle and then played with the Speedo needle to get it on the correct spot.

[Dads79GMC]

That's terrible about the pictures!!!!

Thanks for the response.

[phillipm]

Originally Posted by Dads79GMC

That's terrible about the pictures!!!!

Thanks for the response.

Thanks. Basically the same thing that happened to Anglefire 15 years ago. For the next 10 years this WILL have an effect all over the Web. Sad but true.

I'm currently downloading all of my photos back to my external that I don't already have copies of. Only way to try and keep them safe.

[buffydores]

Originally Posted by phillipm

TO EVERYONE THAT MAY READ MY THREADS. AS AN AVID USER OF PHOTOBUCKET.COM FOR OVER 15 YEARS ALL OF MY PICTURES AND HOT LINKS HAVE BEEN NUKED. I DON'T KNOW IF THEY WILL EVER GET BACK AS I'M NOT WILLING TO PAY $400.00 RANSOM TO DO SO.

Thank you for your time.

Frustrated,
Phillip

Well, guess I'll stop using that crap. Looks like they decided to change the rules for you because you linked a bunch of photos. Is that right?

[phillipm]

Originally Posted by buffydores

Well, guess I'll stop using that crap. Looks like they decided to change the rules for you because you linked a bunch of photos. Is that right?

It will happen to everyone on Photobucket. They are just starting with the highest bandwith users first. For some users the cutoff started about 2 weeks ago. But it will happen to everyone over the next month from my research. Not sure what to do at the moment. What's funny is, had they just charged like 25-50 I bet most would pay. But asking for $400 is suicide.

[buffydores]

Originally Posted by phillipm

It will happen to everyone on Photobucket. They are just starting with the highest bandwith users first. For some users the cutoff started about 2 weeks ago. But it will happen to everyone over the next month from my research. Not sure what to do at the moment. What's funny is, had they just charged like 25-50 I bet most would pay. But asking for $400 is suicide.

They're idiots. The market expects free. They'll just go somewhere that's free. As much as I love my build thread, it's not worth $400.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by buffydores

They're idiots. The market expects free. They'll just go somewhere that's free. As much as I love my build thread, it's not worth $400.

Beyond idiots. They've made people mad. Lot's of people talking about it and none of it good and I haven't read one post from someone who was going to pay.

[phillipm]

Okay so after doing a ton of research on the upper door seals, I decided I wanted to add them. The wind noise in our Blazer really wasn't bad at all with all new strips and new vent window seals. However, it gets so hot here in the summer, and we plan to take this thing across the desert quite a bit, so we thought what the hell, let's give them a shot.

I was initially worried the door would be harder to close as we bought these from LMC and not from Soffseal. However, after getting them glued and screwed in they door closes the exact same as before! Seal butts up nice and firm against the upper body and looks like it should help out.

I had called the guys at Precision and they were adamant about not adding these to a truck that didn't come with them because we'd have to drill holes in the doors. I was thinking, "man, you should see all the holes I've drilled and filled over the years.." Ha-ha.

Here are some pics of the seals installed. Also yes, I plan to go back and fix all the other pictures in this thread, however at the moment I'm waiting for a friend to finish up a pic server. Once he does I'll get them updated.

[phillipm]

Also got some rain/wind shields installed behind the door panels. I was getting a lot of air blowing in and around the panel so hoping this will slow/stop that.. It's so hot and A/C is a premium this time of year!

[buffydores]

Come on man. I need some eye-candy. What have you been working on?

[phillipm]

Originally Posted by buffydores

Come on man. I need some eye-candy. What have you been working on?

I've been making some upgrades of course, but the new photo upload process is just too annoying for me to continue using. I need to figure out a better way. However look for a tailgate power window conversion and a radio swap to come!

[phillipm]

I got really tired of cranking my rear window up and down so I finally upgraded to a power setup. I will say it wasn't so much the cranking that bothered me, but the locking and unlocking of the crank handle. It's a two handed operation so if you've got your hands full that means you're setting your stuff on the roof. So, I purchased an original power regulator here on the board and had it converted to run on a late model power window motor over at Nu-Relics. It's not a 100% bolt in operation but with a few small modifications it's all in there. One thing is that the new motor requires a reversing switch unlike the original. So, in order for it to work and still use the key switch I had to wire in a pair of relays to do the polarity switching with the original 2 pole switch of the tailgate.

I also scored an NOS lock housing so I was pretty excited about that. Here is a video of the new setup running.. When Buffydores is here in October we can run a window drag race against the original setup. Hehe
Blazer Tailgate Window Video

[68Timber]

Sweeeet... I bet you're one of those guys that could rig it to run off a late model GM remote fob and roll down the back window if you wave your foot under the bumper. Someone is going to, eventually.

[phillipm]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

Sweeeet... I bet you're one of those guys that could rig it to run off a late model GM remote fob and roll down the back window if you wave your foot under the bumper. Someone is going to, eventually.

That's easier than it sounds actually. The key to all of that stuff is the BCM. If you get a vehicle that has that and the engine trans combo, just swap it ALL over. Lot's of wiring yes, but not physically difficult. Nu-Relics told me to throw some more grease on the gears and that should smooth out the operation some more. So I'll do that in the coming week or so. They always recommend wheel bearing grease over white lithium.

[buffydores]

Originally Posted by phillipm

When Buffydores is here in October we can run a window drag race against the original setup.

I'm so gonna lose this race. You need timelapse video to verify movement of my setup.

[phillipm]

Okay time for another update!

I've been running the Cooling Components CCI-1228 fans for a while now (which can be found HERE). And while they cool very very well, they are kinda loud for my taste, even on low. So, I decided to move to an OEM fan solution. I've used GM fans in the past and I'm always impressed with the amount of air they can move and for how quiet they are, even at full speed which is currently how I've got them wired.

The fans I'm using came from a 2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V. I've got one of these cars so it made taking pre-measurements much easier. The fans are 12" diameter fans with 160W motors on each. This lines up pretty well with the 28x18" radiator core I've got in the truck.



My original plan was to use the factory shroud and everything. That's by far the easiest way to go. However, with the fan on the right being in the raised position this ran right into my air induction tube from the engine. I could shove the shroud down and all the way to the passenger side and make it fit, however this left a large gap at the top and along the driver's side. That would probably be okay in 98% of the country, but in Phoenix that's not good. That's precious area that I'm loosing when you're parked in 120*+ weather..



So, I decided just to build a shroud that would meet my needs and fit my core perfectly. I first used 5052 aluminum to bend up the general shroud. It's 1" deep and has flanges on the top and bottom that will be used to mount the unit to the radiator. The dimensions of the raised area came out to 16" x 28" and flange to flange the unit is 18" tall.



Next I stripped the fans and motors out of the OE shroud and used some 6061 solid rod bent on each end to create a mounting structure. The center pieces are some .090 5052 I had laying around that I used a 4.5" hole saw to cut the hole for the electric motors to pass through. Another key feature when purchasing used OEM fans is to get them with the electrical plugs still in them. Many of the OEM's use Yazaki terminal plugs which are hard to find in the US as well as online. And, when you do, they want too much money for them.



I copied the 1/2" stand off from the tip of the blades to the core that the original shroud gave. However, this left another 3/4" of blade sticking out of the shroud. While I don't think this would be an issue for performance it's certainly a safety issue. So next I made some 90* pieces that were 41" long and used my stretcher to turn them into guards.







From there it was a whole bunch of welding and a whole bunch of drilling to finish it off. All of the holes are for SPAL wind flaps that relieve pressure from the non aero design of a flat shroud. At speed they open and allow more air to pass, and when you're stopped they close from their own weight as well as suction from the fans. I added a separator on the back side so I can run just one fan at a time and not get bypass air just looping around as well.





Finally it's hard to get a good picture in there but here they are finished up and mounted in the truck. A friend had asked me how long I thought it would take me to build them. I laughed and said I think it will take me 2.5 hours so it will probably take me 5. In the end it took me 12 hours to build the shroud not including painting and wiring it which was easily another hour or two.



In the end I've now got a fan setup that doesn't sound like a 747 coming in for a landing. However I'll have to wait till next summer to really put it through the tests!

[aggie91]

Nice work!

[buffydores]

Your craftsmanship is epic.

[phillipm]

Originally Posted by buffydores

Your craftsmanship is epic.

Thanks bud, I appreciate that.

[68Timber]

If you're not an electrical engineer, you should have been. Your knowledge of system needs and aftermarket vs OEM stuff is refreshing.

[phillipm]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

If you're not an electrical engineer, you should have been. Your knowledge of system needs and aftermarket vs OEM stuff is refreshing.

You know I think I'm the classic case of not applying yourself in school. When I went to my counselor and said I wanted to go into the Engineering School, she just laughed as she looked at my test scores... LOL. My wife has asked me to go back to school for my Engineering Degree but I haven't done it. So, instead I'm the Director of Marketing and Communications for a few Harley-Davidson® locations.

For me, in school I never made the connection of how studies and real world applications meet until much later.. Never say never though right?

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by phillipm

So, instead I'm the Director of Marketing and Communications for a few Harley-Davidson® locations.

Are you the guy I complaint to about all the motor clothes being overpriced for not being Made in America... just kidding .. sort of...

[phillipm]

Out of the blue I was driving the Blazer home one night and bam, it wanted to die and was puffing plumes of smoke out the back. After making a U-Turn and finding a safe place to pull over I pulled out the laptop and started poking around in HP Tuners to see what was happening. Turned out the fuel trims were -25% which is basically pulling as much fuel as possible and it's still too rich. On the way home it died again and I had trouble getting it started. Had to give it about 1/2 throttle to get it running.

After doing some more research Dad and I realized it was possibly the carbon EVAP canister and system that were where the faults could be. Pulled the old canister out and turned it over, sure enough fuel rolled out of it! Well shoot, that's not good. A few things transpired from that. First we realized that I plumbed the system wrong. The neck vent should not have been teed into the EVAP supply line. It should of been plumbed to the fuel module liquid separator port. And two, where I had the canister guaranteed that if fuel did make it into the line it would roll all the way down to the canister.

So, after re-plumbing the neck vent we got to work remounting the canister in the rear of the truck just behind the drivers rear tire. I made a shelf that holds the back half of the canister and then riveted on a plate to the floor which included two TIG welded 3/8" studs to run flange nuts on to. Now the canister is just above the top of the tank and we should no longer have issues with the fuel, fingers crossed!

[SFBay69]

I just read every word and looked at every photo in this thread. Wow. Beautiful. You and your dad are truly talented. Great job.