Attempting my first build 72 K5

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I took my tank, the one with all the dents to the guys I'm working with at the body shop and he immediately said "F... fixing that, buy a new steel one and swap the necks. I'm not sure how bad yours is, but if you are putting in a brand new engine like me, why take the chance.

Where did you / are you buying your tank?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Where did you / are you buying your tank?

Not sure yet.. Still researching the best place to get it.. I think they all come from the same manufacturer but i could be wring..

I called Early Classic because they're only 3 hours away and figured I'd save on shipping cost, but they told me they would have to order it from somewhere (didn't say where) and it would take 1-2 weeks for them to get it

[notsolo]

I guess you are trying to keep it as stock as possible. Just my 2 cents, Since it will be covered I would have 1 made.

[DeadheadNM]

Nice!

[1972 Jimmy]

Tub looks great!! Your very lucky!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks a lot guys! I guess I can't complain to much about the PO mods he made to the frame since he left me with a nice metal

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Now that the tube is back it's crunch time. I have less than 2 months to put together a full rolling chassis before they're ready to mount the body back on the frame for final assembly.

1. I have most of the plumbing done
2. Assemble front axle and mount
3. E-brake cables
4. Mount Engine, Trans, and T-Case
5. Drive shafts
6. Radiator Core and Radiator.
7.

Anybody want come help?

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Now that the tube is back it's crunch time. I have less than 2 months to put together a full rolling chassis before they're ready to mount the body back on the frame for final assembly.

1. I have most of the plumbing done
2. Assemble front axle and mount
3. E-brake cables
4. Mount Engine, Trans, and T-Case
5. Drive shafts
6. Radiator Core and Radiator.
7.

Anybody want come help?

Nice job! everything looks great! I would love to come and help out! It would sure beat the -20 degree weather that we are having here.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

Nice job! everything looks great! I would love to come and help out! It would sure beat the -20 degree weather that we are having here.

Thank Jimmy. -20 damn. I remember those cold winter months when I went to WMU and lived in Kalamazoo for 3 years. I sure don't miss those brutal winters

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I'm having a bad case of Murphy's Law consistently with this truck..

I installed the passenger side steering knuckle in less than 10 minutes.. No problem, torqued the lower ball joint nut 70 lbs of torque, spanner nut @ 50 lbs, and the top ball joint king nut @ 100 lbs..

I'm thinking this is great, I'll have this axle fully assembled with wheels on and back on the truck tonight..

NOPE!!!

The drivers side knuckle is giving me hell. I spent 4-5 hours last night trying every possible reason why the upper ball joint stud wont side all the through the spanner nut.. I tried adjusted how much I had the ball joints seated and various other tactics.

I'm stumped... When I torque the lower at 70 lbs and then i try to torque the spanner nut, it continues to spin through past the edge of last thread causing it to push the upper ball joint stud down...

Here's a pic.. you can see the upper ball joint is not all the way through the spanner.. this is as far as it would go, even with the lower torqued down.

[tjsblazer]

Looks great. A few questions.
What Absorbers are you using and what Steering stabilizer? Looks like the body of it clears the front springs.
On your Rear brake lines. The brass union between the 2 rear lines and the single hose, did you clean up your original or buy a new one?
Why did you install the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the bottom up with the nuts on the top of the frame?

I might be asking you some more questions about when you did your ball joints. I'm going to be tackling my front axle in 2 weeks and I'm not sure I totally understand the proper way yet.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Looks great. A few questions.
What Absorbers are you using and what Steering stabilizer? Looks like the body of it clears the front springs.
On your Rear brake lines. The brass union between the 2 rear lines and the single hose, did you clean up your original or buy a new one?
Why did you install the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the bottom up with the nuts on the top of the frame?

I might be asking you some more questions about when you did your ball joints. I'm going to be tackling my front axle in 2 weeks and I'm not sure I totally understand the proper way yet.

Thanks, TJ
I'm using Skyjacker Monotube shocks and stabilizer. They are the stock stock height shock absorbers. You have to install the stabilizer first before you install the steering rod or else there is not enough room for it squeeze through.

The reason I installed the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the the bottom up is because I looked backed through my pictures when I tore it down and that's how they where. I'm not sure if that is stock or not. I do know the OE replaced the motor at one point so he might have installed them that way.

I cleaned up my original brass union.. When I took it apart, it had a bracket that sits inside one of the differential cover bolts so that's why I kept it just to make sure everything when back together. The lines came from inline tube and i had to fight with them a little bit to make em fit.

The ball joint sequence is like this:
1. Slide the upper and lower stud inside the C-Clamp with the spanner flush at the top.
2. Next step is to tighten the upper king nut so it is snug fit.. Just enough so that the knuckle doesn't turn when tightening the lower.
3. Tighten the lower nut to 7o ft lbs
4. Take off the upper king nut
5. Tighten the spanner to 50 ft lbs.
6. Tighten the upper king nut to 100 ft lbs.. If the hole is not visible enough to slide the cotter pin keep tightening the upper until you have enough room to slide the cotter pin through.

Hope that helps. let me know if you have any questions..

[jaros44sr]

Beautiful work and attention to detail, well done. Glad ya got past your problems. Will be a great truck when done...thanks for sharing and taking the time to post up

[mx289]

Looks amazing !

Mike as said before,your attention to detail is awesome.

Congrats on hitting this milestone.

[sockalaminski]

The rolling chassis is a hell of a milestone and it looks great. If you think you're jazzed now, wait till the engine, tranny and transfer case are in. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the next update.

[1972 Jimmy]

Wow! Chassis really looks good! Great project you got there!

[DeadheadNM]

Looking fantastic!! Strong work. I will have a beer to celebrate on your behalf

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thank you all. I really appreciate all the complements. It certainly helps keep me motivated.

TJ - I forgot to mention one little issue with the rear shocks. The bottom steel sleeve is about 1/8" or less of inch to long to fit inside the rear axle where the shock mounts too.

It's a simple fix. All I did was shave off just enough of the steel sleeve..Check out the pics below

[DeadheadNM]

That was an excellent way to go - tank looks great.

[IronCanine]

Tank turned out fantastic Mike...it'll pair well with that immaculate frame.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks, Pete and Brad.. Glad I finally came to a resolution with the tank.. Lets hope it actually fits

[tjsblazer]

Hey Mike, when you ran your new brake and fuel lines did you have all the frame x-members in or did you put the lines in first and then all the x-members ?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I had all the X-Members in prior to installing the lines. I'm not sure if it matters, but one thing I might be worried about if I installed the lines first is if I accidentally bashed or smashed a line trying to get the X-members in... The Fuel and Brake line run a long the top/bottom of the Transmission X-member if that makes sense.

Check out my pictures before I tore it all down. This is a link to my drop box account with about 41 photos. I made annotation marks what line was what to help make it easier for any to use as reference.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wtwaauas8...Uy2NjZQQa?dl=0

Here are after pics
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hayh08lia...U1vrvpX2a?dl=0

[1972 Jimmy]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I had all the X-Members in prior to installing the lines. I'm not sure if it matters, but one thing I might be worried about if I installed the lines first is if I accidentally bashed or smashed a line trying to get the X-members in... The Fuel and Brake line run a long the top/bottom of the Transmission X-member if that makes sense.

Check out my pictures before I tore it all down. This is a link to my drop box account with about 41 photos. I made annotation marks what line was what to help make it easier for any to use as reference.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wtwaauas8...Uy2NjZQQa?dl=0

Here are after pics
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hayh08lia...U1vrvpX2a?dl=0

Your build is looking Great! Awesome detail in the pics. This will help me out alot when putting mine back together.
Eric

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks Eric.
I'm not sure if this is 100% correct as it came from the factory. I used my old pics to reference putting it all back together. I think 72's might also have a slight difference with the rear brake line compared to the 69-71 models. Plus Jimmy's might be different, too so you might want to look into that. Before you make your final orders/purchases make sure you do just that little extra home work before finalizing your orders so you don't piss any money away.. Ask me how I know lol